How to choose a Sewing Pattern?

Choosing a good Sewing Pattern for your new project:
Whether you are an absolute beginner, a hobby seamstress with little experience, or an experienced seamstress, the success of a project often depends on choosing a good pattern. Searching for and choosing a good sewing pattern is always very important. It is not only about WHAT you want to make but also how you will make it.

Which fabric do you need?
Which size do you have?
How much time it will take to finish the project ?  (Last one is important if you are creating some garment for a planned date, party or event...)

A Chanel Inspired Jacket:
You are going to make a Chanel inspired jacket, skirt or other couture classic and you will be orientated before you start.
Very wise.
Therefore, with this step-by-step guide as a practical total-guide and to prevent you from forgetting an important step or thought. It happens too everyone; halfway realize that the project is not what you had in mind, too little fabrics or lining, wrong size, expectations that are too high or a level that unfortunately does not turn out to be feasible. No shame. Just continue with your goal and try to plan and oversee the next project a little better.

Now let's rock and roll:

1. First, think for a moment what you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be: Tight and formal? Or casual and comfortable?
Very important ! Take a look at the reviews first lines or the backside of the sewing pattern-envelop.  If you look for a tight, shaped and slim jacket, then choose a sewing pattern which is "fitted". If you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be more comfortable, maybe with front-sides open-hanging and a casual appearance; look out for the "semi-fitted" jackets.
Loose fitting is a more comfortable shape, belly freedom and not following the contours of the body closely.

Fitted jackets: Vogue V7975, Burda 6705, Simplicity 1421, McCalls M7058.
Semi-fitted jackets: Vogue V8804, Vogue V8991, Vogue V9095, Butterick B6382, Burda 6465, Burda 8949 and Neue Mode M23079
Loose fitting jacket: Vogue 9250, New Look 6496.


2. What about underlining?
The classic French Chanel jacket is famous mostly because of it's quilted lining, which offers an exclusive sense of movement, freedom and luxury. The "invention" of this jacket was innovative in the time that came after the corsets and the tight clothing code. The jacket gave the wearer a sense of freedom and made sure that it was still chic and exclusive enough to continue as a couture. Anyway, if you want to go for the classic and most exclusive version choose a pattern of Claire Schaeffer which offers the possibility and the instructions to quilt the lining.

Examples: Vogue V8804 en Vogue V8991

The other Chanel Inspired jacket offer the normal standard way of linings. In advanced options, we will talk about quilting linings in other sewing patterns, but as said; it is only an extra option. The sewing pattern is not focused on this process, as above mentioned patterns specific do.

If you prefer a jacket which is not underlined at all: New Look 6496, Burda 8949 and Simplicity 1421

These unlined jacket are a great options for hot summers or a way to practice and to get to know your most beloved or desired Chanel Inspired Jacket.


3. Skills. 
Know your skills about sewing techniques.  It might be a challenge to create a perfect, complicated and advanced Chanel jacket, but realize that it is also very, very frustrating to get stucked in the process because of problems with the required level of your sewing techniques. Sewing Pattern give codes or names for the desired levels in different languages.  Easy/Beginners/Basic/Facile/Very easy, Average/Mittel/Moins Facile or Advanced/Difficult/Plus Difficile.

But.....
This is based on classical training and is sometimes based on principles that seem logical but are not logical at all.

So, if you want to be sure; read our reviews or take a look around on the internet. Average is sometimes more difficult as it looks and even Easy or Beginners may require sew techniques that you may not have mastered. The instructions on the Sewing Pattern are sometimes loud and clear.  But sometimes they are not loud and clear at all.

So, if you want to be sure about your skills you need to finish the project from the start till the day you will wear it with glory.... have a helping hand nearby or do not start with a sewing pattern which requires too much dedication, knowledge and advanced couture sewing skills.

4. Know your size.
Needless to say... But do realize that size DOES matter.  In a store you can try on different sizes and it is more common that sizes are living their own lives these days because of mass-production and non-global standards.
If you start to sew (and cut the fabric)  there is no way back.  So be sure about your size, or even better:  first create an example-size like they do at the big couture houses. Molton or mousseline fabric is ideal,  or just a cheap fabric you do not use.....

5. Last but not least:  The Fabrics ! 
Read the Sewing Patterns requirements about the fabric and our reviews. The quantity you need is important ( do not forget to order or buy some extra fabric to create more pockets or self-made fringes), but also the kind of fabric. How a pattern or final result falls depends largely on the type of fabric used. Some patterns are great for tweeds or bouclé. Others are more suitable for wool or wool-blends. If you want to try a fabric which is not mentioned on the sewing pattern; read our reviews first or take a look around on the internet. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a different type of fabric. But more often it is not that good idea to ignore the advises.

On almost every sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals". Meaning:  it will be a hell of a job to work with fabrics with squares, dots, stripes, shapes, patterns, corners, triangles, lines, diagonals on the pattern etc, to make it visually attractive. It might be work but you need a lot of extra fabrics and have advanced skills to construct the pattern-pieces to match the pattern on the fabric. It is really Haute couture when a checkered or striped jacket looks perfectly visual symmetrical and perfect. Unless it is a big challenge; stick to choosing a fabric which will not be a burden.

On Claire Shaeffer's sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals or uneven plaids. Allow extra fabric to match even plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics."

Meaning: A yardage is a distance or length measured in yards. A fabric with nap is one what usually has a pile and will look different color shades from different angles. Velvet, velour ... Fabric with a one way design will also use the with nap cutting layout, so that the design on the fabric all runs in the same direction on the finished item.

 Know WHICH kind of fabric and HOW MUCH fabric you will need for your Chanel Inspired jacket!

Notes:  Buttons, fringes or adding pockets? Very important but sure we are creative enough to come up with that ourselves.  Choosing the right sewing pattern for the job or project is the most important start. Good luck !