For fast and professional edging, hemming, seaming, and decorative stitching, you simply can't beat a serging machine.
This all-skill-level book is the perfect guide to make sure you get the most out of your new machine (or out of that old serger that you've never got the hang of!)
Photographs and step-by-step instructions guide you through the essential techniques, showing you how to set up your machine, how to adjust the settings to get the best results on a range of different fabrics, and how to edge your fabrics quickly with perfect results.
The troubleshooting section provides tips and quick fixes for skipped stitches, snapped threads, and uneven stitching.
Also includes a buyer's guide to different sergers, providing you with advice on finding the right machine for you.
a bit less interesting
We love all the beautiful examples. But it all looks a bit like a mamma or grandmother is sewing (locking) for her baby. Next edition: please provides us with more pictures of modern clothes or beautiful couture.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT PATTERN
IF YOU WANT TO SEW A CHANEL-STYLE JACKET
Choosing a good sewingpattern for your new project:
Whether you are an absolute beginner, a hobby seamstress with little experience, or an experienced seamstress, the success of a project often depends on choosing a good pattern. Searching for and choosing a good sewing pattern is always very important. It is not only about WHAT you want to make but also how you will make it.
Which fabric do you need?
Which size do you have?
How much time it will take to finish the project ? (Last one is important if you are creating some garment for a planned date, party or event...)
A Chanel Inspired Jacket:
You are going to make a Chanel inspired jacket, skirt or other couture classic and you will be orientated before you start.
Therefore, with this step-by-step guide as a practical total-guide and to prevent you from forgetting an important step or thought. It happens too everyone; halfway realize that the project is not what you had in mind, too little fabrics or lining, wrong size, expectations that are too high or a level that unfortunately does not turn out to be feasible. No shame. Just continue with your goal and try to plan and oversee the next project a little better.
Now let's rock and roll:
1. First, think for a moment what you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be: Tight and formal? Or casual and comfortable? Very important ! Take a look at the reviews first lines or the backside of the sewing pattern-envelop. If you look for a tight, shaped and slim jacket, then choose a sewing pattern which is "fitted". If you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be more comfortable, maybe with front-sides open-hanging and a casual appearance; look out for the "semi-fitted" jackets.
Loose fitting is a more comfortable shape, belly freedom and not following the contours of the body closely.
Fitted jackets: Vogue V7975, Burda 6705, Simplicity 1421, McCalls M7058.
Semi-fitted jackets: Vogue V8804, Vogue V8991, Vogue V9095, Butterick B6382, Burda 6465, Burda 8949 and Neue Mode M23079
Loose fitting jacket: Vogue 9250, New Look 6496.
2. What about under-lining? The classic French Chanel jacket is famous mostly because of it's quilted lining, which offers an exclusive sense of movement, freedom and luxury. The "invention" of this jacket was innovative in the time that came after the corsets and the tight clothing code. The jacket gave the wearer a sense of freedom and made sure that it was still chic and exclusive enough to continue as a couture. Anyway, if you want to go for the classic and most exclusive version choose a pattern of Claire Schaeffer which offers the possibility and the instructions to quilt the lining.
Examples: Vogue V8804 en Vogue V8991
The other Chanel Inspired jacket offer the normal standard way of linings. In advanced options, we will talk about quilting linings in other sewing patterns, but as said; it is only an extra option. The sewing pattern is not focused on this process, as above mentioned patterns specific do.
If you prefer a jacket which is not underlined at all: New Look 6496, Burda 8949 and Simplicity 1421
These un-lined jacket are a great options for hot summers or a way to practice and to get to know your most beloved or desired Chanel Inspired Jacket.
3. Skills. Know your skills about sewing techniques. It might be a challenge to create a perfect, complicated and advanced Chanel jacket, but realize that it is also very, very frustrating to get stucked in the process because of problems with the required level of your sewing techniques. Sewing Pattern give codes or names for the desired levels in different languages. Easy/Beginners/Basic/Facile/Very easy, Average/Mittel/Moins Facile or Advanced/Difficult/Plus Difficile.
This is based on classical training and is sometimes based on principles that seem logical but are not logical at all.
So, if you want to be sure; read our reviews or take a look around on the internet. Average is sometimes more difficult as it looks and even Easy or Beginners may require sew techniques that you may not have mastered. The instructions on the Sewing Pattern are sometimes loud and clear. But sometimes they are not loud and clear at all.
So, if you want to be sure about your skills you need to finish the project from the start till the day you will wear it with glory.... have a helping hand nearby or do not start with a sewing pattern which requires too much dedication, knowledge and advanced couture sewing skills.
4. Know your size. Needless to say... But do realize that size DOES matter. In a store you can try on different sizes and it is more common that sizes are living their own lives these days because of mass-production and non-global standards.
If you start to sew (and cut the fabric) there is no way back. So be sure about your size, or even better: first create an example-size like they do at the big couture houses. Molton or mousseline fabric is ideal, or just a cheap fabric you do not use.....
5. Last but not least: The Fabrics ! Read the Sewing Patterns requirements about the fabric and our reviews. The quantity you need is important ( do not forget to order or buy some extra fabric to create more pockets or self-made fringes), but also the kind of fabric. How a pattern or final result falls depends largely on the type of fabric used. Some patterns are great for tweeds or bouclé. Others are more suitable for wool or wool-blends. If you want to try a fabric which is not mentioned on the sewing pattern; read our reviews first or take a look around on the internet. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a different type of fabric. But more often it is not that good idea to ignore the advices.
On almost every sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals". Meaning: it will be a hell of a job to work with fabrics with squares, dots, stripes, shapes, patterns, corners, triangles, lines, diagonals on the pattern etc, to make it visually attractive. It might be work but you need a lot of extra fabrics and have advanced skills to construct the pattern-pieces to match the pattern on the fabric. It is really Haute couture when a checkered or striped jacket looks perfectly visual symmetrical and perfect. Unless it is a big challenge; stick to choosing a fabric which will not be a burden.
On Claire Schaeffer's sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals or uneven plaids. Allow extra fabric to match even plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics."
Meaning: A yardage is a distance or length measured in yards. A fabric with nap is one what usually has a pile and will look different color shades from different angles. Velvet, velour ... Fabric with a one way design will also use the with nap cutting layout, so that the design on the fabric all runs in the same direction on the finished item.
Know WHICH kind of fabric and HOW MUCH fabric you will need for your Chanel Inspired jacket!
Notes: Buttons, fringes or adding pockets? Very important but sure we are creative enough to come up with that ourselves. Choosing the right sewing pattern for the job or project is the most important start. Good luck !
How to make a weight blanket.
Maybe you have heard about it, or maybe a 'weight blanket' doens't ring a bell... We are going to talk about a WEIGHT BLANKETS. More specific: how to make a weight blanket. Does this sewing-project belong on the website SewingChanelStyle? Mmmm .... actually not. But we do it anyway, because we are simply too enthusiastic and also love to sleep well.
What is a weight blanket?
First an explanation here. A weight blanket is a heavy blanket. Most people find it delicious to sleep under a heavy woolen blanket. Not only because of the warmth, but more the idea of lying under something heavy. Duvets are now as light as a feather, nice and cool in the summer, but we often miss the feeling of something covering our sleeping body.
We are not going to show science reports etc., but we will mention some experience-facts.
Weight blankets just feel good. Mothers with hypersensitive children or children with sleeping problems, swear by it. And we love them too.
A weighting blanket covers well on and 'around' the sleeping person. The weight creates more pressure and this makes it easier to relax and fall asleep. You will sleep as a stone.
"A very deep sleep".
On the Internet, the weight blankets even claims to be ideal for people with autism, add / adhd, dementia, spasms, serious behavioral problems, hyperactivity and people with relaxation problems (such as Huntington and Korsakov).
Make it yourself!
However, weight blankets are expensive. This is mainly due to the materials and the great unfamiliarity with weight blankets. And that's wy we are going to make one ourselves. An inspiring challenge. Let's start!
What do you need to sew a weight blanket?
How to sew a weight blanket:
You cut (or better: tear) the two pieces of fabric in the right dimensions. Do not make the blanket too large. Then the blanket becomes very heavy and unmanageable. A size measurement of the length of the person and the width of max. 1.25 meters is more than enough. Children's weight blankets are often much smaller.
Sew the two pieces together with the good sides together on the length sides and bottom (= three sides), turn over, spread the seams and sew. Leave the top open.
Now you can draw 20 cm wide surfaces with textile chalk along the length of the blanket. And in width-lengths.
Stitch the lengths of the boxes.
After this, you fill the boxes with two and a half or three scoops of granulates to the maximum. (Depending on whether you want a really heavy blanket of around 9 pounds, or a less heavy blanket of around 5 pounds).
You now take the blanket with your hands on top and shake the blanket well. The pellets are now in the compartments below. After this, carefully sew the strip across the width. Be careful not to cross a grain with the sewing machine. This is not that healthy for the needle ...
Sew all this with the fabric on the left side of the sewing machine and on a large table. It is very nice if the sewing machine has an extra seat or quilt table.
Repeat this process until you reach the top row. It is becoming increasingly difficult because the blanket is now heavy and it can be difficult with the grains. But being patient is a good thing. Work neatly and slowly, this prevents frustration and a home or sewingroom full of granules ...
Finally, close the top with a beautiful decorative edge or fold inwards. You can also leave a flap of fabric on if you would like to be able to tuck the blanket between the mattress on the foot sides.
Finally, wipe away the remaining textile chalk with a piece of cotton and scrub the blanket well a few times.
Making a weighting blanket is not that difficult. It is a sewing project that requires neat work, a lot of patience, space and material.
But at least you will sleep like never did before ...
My name is Vanessa, I’m 42 and from Derbyshire. Having developed epilepsy at an early age I then suffered a stroke at the age of 10, which has left me with no use of my right hand and limited use of my right leg. I had to learn to read, write (this time left handed) and walk all over again.
As time has gone on, I find myself suffering back, hip and knee pain due to the way I walk, therefore I now use a mobility scooter to get around, as I cannot walk too far. I have never let my disability get the better of me and I always endeavour to try new things which will test my abilities and I fell in love with sewing.
Sewing one handed is very challenging especially when it comes to sewing by hand where I really need two hands. For this I have the assistance of either my mum or my hubby to hold the material while I sew. I have recently purchased a third hand sewing clamp, but it does not arrive until mid-July. If it helps I will purchase another two or three to have one either-end, and two across the back of my hand sewing table (3rd hand clamp £13.99 from Amazon). There are cheaper ones but I find that cheap usually means poor quality.
When it comes to cutting out, I open up my dining table to full size and lay out my pattern first and weigh it down along either side of the cut line. I move the weights around accordingly until the pattern has been cut out. A good sharp pair of sewing scissors are required. I use special left handed scissors, for which my husband is banned from using. I use proper sewing weights that my mum bought me for Christmas, they look like macaroons. I find the more weights the better, with one hand, so I usually use anything I have to hand at the time, such as a teapot, book, I have even used a tin of tuna. Once the pattern has been cut out, I remove it from the table and lay out my material face down (right sides together) and then carefully pin on my pattern cut outs, ensuring the sewing pattern pieces face the same direction on the material sewing pattern.
My room is laid out with a small table for hand sewing, a dedicated Horn Sewing Machine Table with a Janome insert and a table for my over-locker.
I love to try new techniques and work out how to do them with one hand. I have so far made 7 dresses, 4 skirts, 3 tops, a cardigan and a pair of pyjama bottoms for my husband. Some of my dresses were done using vintage designs, as I love the styles of the 1940’s and 1950’s. For my next project I’m going to make a blouse. I’m an avid watcher of the sewing bee (would love to meet Patrick Grant) and subscribe to Love Sewing magazine and I often buy and read sewing books.
If there are any one handed sewers out there, I would love to hear from you and share techniques for getting over those obstacles, two handed sewers find easy.
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Pardon my English