CHANEL is faithful since december 2001 to Amanda Sanchez, one of the two in-house models! The first person she spoke to was Virginie Viard.
She goes every day to the rue Cambon CC HQ to fit all the garments the house produces! She knows all the secrets of the trade, and the love stories of course! For the Summer 2021 pre-collection, Virginie Viard announced that Amanda Sanchez was the muse of the collection. This was my alibi to spend some quality time with Amanda Sanchez! We go to her place and see her treasure trove of CHANEL bags! Twenty years of CHANEL bags! We do a blind test and I try to recognizee them. We go to CHANEL for a fitting and on the rooftops for Amanda's TEN RULES FOR WORKING IN FASHION. Hope you enjoy as much as the team enjoyed doing this video!!! Take care! Editing: Konstantin Maslakov Produced by Natacha Morice for DERALF Filmed with Julien Coco Da Costa de La Pausa Editorial: Sellia Nemassoa Contact : deralfproduction@gmail.com Music : Audionetwork! THE CHANEL STYLE is very recognizable, but it is less defined as well. Previously, the association with the "Chanel" brand was mainly a a perfect picture and an identical style. Nowadays the style is less conservative and sleek. The basic elements are still present, but there is much more interpretation for individual interpretation. Basic elements Think of "Chanel" and you immediately think of the colors: black / white, beige, the Breton stripe, a touch of red and of course beautiful but sober Bouclé fabrics and tweeds. The clothing is sleek, Haute couture, beautifully shaped and perfectly finished. The Chanel-jacket can best be described as square yet beautifully shaped, made of Bouclé fabrics or (Summer)-tweeds, with many fringes, bindings and striking buttons with the logo in it. Furthermore, we all immediately think of many pearls, jewelry with the logo in it and of course the famous quilted leather handbag with a long chain as handle or shoulder strap. The Zeitgeist But the Chanel style is a little more difficult to define these days. Haute couture and quality remain the key element, the logo is often also in sight, but otherwise it is just like anyone else's fashion house subject to the spirit of the time. A continuous renewal takes place whereby new generations, new customers are attracted to the brand. On the other hand, of course, they also try to retain regular customers and fans by continuing the timeless clothing and designs. The philosophy of Coco Chanel The vision of Coco Chanel is still the heart of the contemporary collections. But the famous jacket gets longer, gets shorter, becomes a jacket or becomes a dress, etc. etc. Endless variations on an endlessly beautiful theme. This also applies to all other basic elements of the collections. Think about the little black dress, it is constantly renewing itself, but the Chanel-character remains. As time goes by, more and more variations are added to the clothing, experiments with other fabrics and even Chanel-jackets made of leather and plastic. Do you still recognize the typical Chanel style as an outsider? Yes, we agree and we especially like the concepts of the modern touch and variations. It is not static but the style 'goes with the flow'. How do you create the 'Chanel Style' yourself?
You can rely on the sewing patterns we use and have tested for you. But after that, go for it in your own choices in fabrics and finishes. Creating the Chanel style doesn't mean sticking with the usual colors, fabrics and patterns. Perhaps the 'Chanel style' is attractive by giving it an individual twist. A few tips:
The Couture Faux-Wrap Skirt, Chanel-Style, is one of the most popular couture skirts because of its style and special characteristics. Let's move! It is designed by Coco Chanel for ladies "on the move" almost hundred years ago. A complete new design in the times when petticoat and multi-layered skirts were mainstream. The faux-wrap design did not need an underskirt. The lining is quilted on the fabric, which makes the skirt feel very soft, easy to wear with panties and in winter tick enough to wear outdoors. The skirt is in combination with the cardigan jacket meant to be the perfect suit; easy to wear, yet elegant and superb sophisticated. The skirt is softly tailored; based on light-weight fabrics and simply styled. Sewing the Chanel-Style Faux-wrap Skirt The skirt is relatively easy to make if you are an advanced seamstress and you have the time for a lot of hand sewing. The book of Claire Shaeffer shows the techniques and the tricks to get it done. But buying a good pattern of a wrap-skirt will be a good base as well. Working your way from the base till the end result and keeping in mind the time spending is a treasure (and pleasure). It will not be a one-hour-skirt-project and a one-season-fashon-item. But it will be a piece of couture and a slow process. And you will have a timeless skirt which you will wear for decades. Updating the skirt or making it a very fashionable item, all depends on the length of the skirt and the fabrics which is used. Take a look around on the inspirations pages of this website or on the internet. The shape of the skirt, the construction and the couture techniques used will be your base; anything else is up to you and open for endless variations, possibilities and modern results. |
Butterick B5466 Fabric: Woolen checkered black/white/beige fabric Lining: Silk crepe de Chine, lined Trims: Braid woolen binding with golden chain sewed on it Buttons: Chanel gold buttons Pattern alteration: The Couture Skirt Size: 12 Styling: white blouse combination for Classic and business-style purpose Tip: The fabric should not be a heavy-weight wool as we use for this skirt; a light-weight version would have been better and easier wearing. |
Butterick B5466 Fabric: Light wool/cotton mix white/light blue Lining: Silk charmeuse Trims: Cotton binding dark-blue/white Buttons: Chanel gold buttons Pattern alteration: The Couture Skirt Size: 10 Styling: white blouse combination for Classic and business-style purpose Tip: The skirt is long and easy to combine for different styles. The skirt can be wore in Summer and in Winter seasons. |
Butterick B5466 Fabric: Light wool mix light blue/beige Lining: Silk, beige Trims: none Buttons: none Pattern alteration: The Couture Skirt Size: 10 |
Butterick B5466 review
Sewing level: Easy
Fabrics: Broadcloth, Damask, Satin, Jacquard, Poplin and Tweed.
Notions: 7" Zipper. Also for A: Hooks & Eyes. For B: One Hook & Eye Closure. For C: One 3/4" Buckle without Prong, One Hook & Eye Closure. Skirt D, E: 9" Zipper, Hooks & Eyes. Lining.
GOOD:
- Very nice combination with the Chanel-Style French jacket.
- Great shape and ideal to wear without movement restrictions.
- Beautiful waist, hour-glass shape total.
- ++ Once you understand the altered pattern; you will be able to create modern variations !
- A perfect travel-item; use wrinkle-free easy maintenance fabrics! Merino wool, Terlenka, Tencell and Rayon.
- A timeless classic. we love it.
NOT SO GOOD:
- The skirt looks a bit old-fashioned because of the shape and length. Make sure to change it in your desired length. It will make the skirt look fabulous instead of out-dated.
Advanced Options
Changing/alteration of the sewing pattern, Butterick Basic Skirt, into a faux-wrap Couture Chanel-Style Skirt mentioned in Claire Shaeffer's book:
Couture Sewing: The Couture Skirt
See more at https://www.chanel.com/-YT-HC_SS21
Chanel - timeless allure!
This collection breathes Chanel, Chanel and again Chanel. You don't have to use a magnifying glass to notice it is all created by the fashion house Chanel. Coco Chanel would be proud because many designs and the essence of Chanel is strongly present and has been translated to these modern times.
Black and white & colors
The colors black, white and gray (anthracite) clearly dominate the show, translated into beautiful Bouclé jackets and checkered fabrics for skirts, Pied-de-poule fabrics for jackets and suits. In addition, we see beige, soft pink, jeans blue, a single color ocher-yellow, orange (brique) and peacock-blue. But the black and white tones dominate the entire collection.
Fabrics
The season offers an infinity of possible fabrics. After all, it is an intermediate season and the days are always either warm or cold. This reflects the collection. From warm Bouclé fabrics to almost transparent chiffon. The leather look or real leather fabrics are striking and strong. These are deep black and show very tough and strong. There is also a lot of spandex for leggings. We are a little less enthusiastic about these leggings. The Bouclé fabrics vary in look: from a sleeveless jacket (for warm days) to a complete Bouclé outfit including a warm long coat.
In the collection you notice all the work behind the scenes. A complete crochet dress, lots of embroidery and detailed finishes that are undoubtedly made by hand. See the video: Chanel documentary - Chanel journal of a collection.
Variations in style
The beautiful details in terms of fabric and accessories are genius. We see many small bags, striking belts and jewelery in the form of hairpieces, earrings, a few hats and necklaces. This ensures, among other things, that there is a lot of variation in style. The styles are baroque, hippies, retro, casual and business. Some black long coats can even pass as Gothic-style. We think the long dresses, long coats and flowing fabrics are beautiful and very feminine. After all, in times of (corona) crisis, many fabrics are always used in clothing to create a feeling of luxury and well being.
It is a wonderful collection and ewe like the vararity of different styles. We are curious what eventually will be spotted on the streets. The collection is easily translated for the mainstream public. By the way, we miss the facemasks and we will skip the leggings...
Haute couture documentary
This You-tube movie is certainly not a little movie; it is true documentary. The film lasts an hour and you will enjoy it. The film was shot from June to July 2020, after the lockdown in Paris, but still in the middle of the pandemic. You will notice the face masks and the social distance rules.
Behind the scenes
The documentary shows the ateliers of Chanel, the new director Virginie Viard, the seamstresses, the leaders of the workshops, the studios, the fit models Amanda and Cris, the embroidery artists, the photographer and all the other people behind the scenes. A bit like the book: Chanel, the making of a collection.
Despite the hectic nature that is inherent in making Haute couture collections, the documentary also shows nice relaxing moments, social interactions among the employees and coffee & coockies. What is striking is the passion of the employees when they are talking about their work and how proud they are to work for Chanel.
Our conclusion:
An honest documentary about the makers behind the Chanel brand. And definitely worth watching every minute of it!
Inspiration? Yes, after this documentary you immediately want to start making Haute couture yourself!
An interesting Vogue article today:
Virginie Viard, the Woman Behind Chanel’s New Chapter
Read all about the new Chanel's creative director: her story, lifestyle and vision!
Fashion houses & trend watchers
But most fashion houses are used looking into the future. They determine what the street scene will look like in the future, or at least the next season ahead. Of course there are social developments that cannot be predicted and mistakes are common. For example, how about all the headcaps and tight hoodies that pop up on the catwalks but are suddenly clumsy? In connection with the mandatory mouth mask in many countries? You really need your ears to put the rubber bands on the mouth mask ...
On the other hand, fashion houses and trend watchers also respond very quickly to social changes and developments. In'Living in a bubble' you can read how fashion adapts to people's daily lives. After all, we no longer have to leave the house - dressed in a suit - to run to a meeting. Many people are working at home. Looking neat but comfortable is a good goal. We live in a social bubble, we dress accordingly.
What will bring Chanel's new spring and summer collection? In any case, a lot of distance and space between the models. Social distance in a chic concept.
We see many fresh, light colors. Pink and light red in particular is strikingly present and we notice some bright prints.
We are enjoying the classic Chanel jacket wearing in combination with short skirts and pants. Bouclé cotton all over the catwalk, beautiful black, anthracite and white colors processed in beautiful fabrics. Even dresses are made of Bouclé cotton, creating a strong but also a very elegant look.
And as always, we see a lot of black, pearls, edges and fringes as the quintessential Chanel elements. We have the feeling that fashion house Chanel has stayed close to itself with this collection. Some outfits with big logo's, glitter sequins and ruffles are not our favorites. But everyone has his or her taste.
Enjoy the video of the beautiful, modern catwalk and hopefully you get a lot of inspiration from it, just like us. And looking forward to spring 2021!
How do you make your own Chanel-inspired jacket ? There is a simple answer to that question: read the books by Claire Shaeffer! This American lady has written many books about the history of Haute couture, how to make your own couture and in particular everything about Chanel couture.
Her books are for all seamstress or hobby-sewers. But they are also interesting for people who are not interested in sewing.
The history of Haute couture
Claire Shaeffer is an expert in Haute couture. She has a wealth of knowledge and an own collection of vintage couture. She gained her knowledge by looking around in museums and studying couture in detail. Couture houses often do not reveal their secrets. However, Claire has unraveled many couture secrets by studying original vintage items. These literately inside studies enabled her to gather a lot of information that normally remains behind closed doors.
Think of it as recipes from special menus from top restaurants. It is not only about the ingredients of a menu, but also about the specific cooking techniques that suddenly make eating a plate something very special. Apart from detailed sewing techniques, the books contain many beautiful photos of special vintage clothing.
Classic and timeless chic!
A beautiful Chanel jacket worn on trendy jeans. Who doesn't want this? Or a beige tweed coat for the winter? Just as timelessly beautiful as the perfectly fitting business blazer you would like to wear on occasions where you need to look beauty and brains. Everyone likes photography and information about the fashion of the past and the fashion of today. The only difference between a Vogue or Hapaar's Bazaar magazine and Claire Shaeffer's books is the idea to make these great pieces of clothing yourself. Perhaps you should first start with making potholders or pajama pants, but after a few years of practice it will probably work...
Claire Shaeffer & Chanel Couture
Anyone who says 'Chanel jackets' in the sewing-world, says Claire Shaeffer. Conversely too. Claire Shaeffer is a Chanel expert par excellence. Her books: The Couture Cardigan Jacket, The Couture Skirt and Designer trims deal specifically with the phenomenon: the Little French Jacket.
The books are about how-to instructions and inspirations for color combinations, choices of fabrics and the very specific decorative trims and fringes of these jackets. A very nice ode to Coco Chanel. Some of her books were reissued in 2013, exactly one hundred years after Coco Chanel opened its first store in Deauville.
A gift or a "silent" hint!
If you have a girlfriend who likes to work with needle and thread: the books for this special lady are nice to give as a gift. Perhaps the silent hint is understood. You hope she will make a DIY Chanel jacket for you some day....
The word "day" is misplaced here. It is known that the "making time" of the Chanel jackets is on average 80 hours. And don't forget to add a lot of reading hours too, because you will soon loose the time if you step into the world of Haute couture through the eyes of Claire Shaeffer.
Vogue V9245
The Vogue pattern is a sewing pattern for a sleeveless jumpsuit and jumpsuit with sleeves. There are no further variations in sleeves, length or collars. The sewing pattern is suitable for the summer and therefore typical summer fabrics are recommended: jersey, challis and lightweight crepe fabric.
We do not understand why jersey is recommended. Jersey clearly falls under the stretchable and elastic fabrics and this pattern is not suitable for elastic fabrics.
Challis is a lightweight woven fabric, also called Rayon. This fabric might be transparent, so pay attention to that. Rayon is an ideal summer fabric because it is absorbent, feels nice and soft, but is also breathable. Also note: prewash is recommended to prevent shrinkage.
Chanel-Style:
If you want to add a 'Chanel-style touch': make the jumpsuit in the beloved Chanel colors: black, white, beige, gold or red. (see video below).
A jumpsuit can be chic if you make it in subtle colors, add beautiful trims or lace and combine it with pearls or classy jewelry.
Sewing level: very easy
The sewing pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree with this, but it is certainly not 'very' easy. The sewingpattern is very long, there is a lot of fabric involved and you can easily make mistakes by losing the overview.
Pros:
- A nice casual looking jumpsuit
- Easy pattern, great instructions
- Timeless model that in principle everyone could wear
Cons:
- Without a belt, the jumpsuit is very bulky and just too much fabric
- The legs and sleeves are very big...
- The sewing pattern at the cross is not correct. The front of the crotch is too long and the back too short. The result: a crotch and inner leg seams that are too far back on the legs. Really a big mistake because you cannot just fix this. You will have to adjust the sewing pattern and ask for help if you are not experienced with adjusting sewing patterns. Not a 'very easy' job.
Vogue V9245 is a fun sewing pattern for a timeless jumpsuit. The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. The jumpsuit is great for the summer. Nice and airy, easy to wear and if made of Rayon or travel fabrics: ideal to take with you on a trip.
However, the sewing pattern is not entirely correct in terms of the base: the cross is not correct and is too far back. You need to fix it because without doing this, the crotch will not feel good and it will be a problem if you actually sit down.
As the title says, this book is about taking a glimpse inside the famous fashion houses. It is very picture-heavy with many images of studios, workshops, designers and artisans at work, as well as the close ups of the gorgeous details that go into the garments and the shots before the fashion shows begin. The photography is splendid, of course, and every page is full of information about the haute couture design process at different fashion houses.
What goes on behind closed doors at Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Yves Saint Laurent and other famous houses is usually very secretive in the fashion industry. It is so refreshing to see a bit of this mystery unveiled. For example, my favourite part is the way the authors described the typical day at Mademoiselle Chanel’s when she was still alive. A valet at the hotel where she lived would call the workplace at 31, rue Gambon (right across from the hotel), to let the staff know that she was on her way. They would immediately spray her favourite perfume all over so she can get a good whiff when she got to work.
Paris, the centre of Haute couture
The book also highlights various skilled workshops around Paris that help the fashion houses bring their collections to fruition. Maison Lesage, Maison Michel, Massaro shoes, Maison Lemarie, Atelier Broderies Vermont got their due praises. The details of their work are amazing. It is no wonder that Paris is still the center of the haute couture industry simply because the skilled labour is there and they have thousands of embroidery, shoes, pleats, feather and other embellishments’ designs on files from hundreds of years in fashion.
Some secrets revealed
I am always curious to know what inspires other designers, what their creative process is like, and how they succeed. There are snippets of information in this book that help me understand why some designers are more successful than others. Ambition and talent are important, of course, and there is plenty of mention about that throughout the book. But there are other deciding factors that make it of break it in this industry. For instance, the very fact that all of the most famous fashion houses are located in Paris is a major reason for success because they have access to the best fabrics, notions and embellishments without worrying about shipping and customs duties.
It is common custom among the fashion houses to purchase the workshops that they need for their designs, such as embroidery and lace. Chanel’s group has recently acquired the workshop in Paris making tweeds because originally Chanel’s tweeds were imported from Linton Tweeds in the UK. Similar example of acquisitions is the house of Dior buying Atelier Broderies Vermont. Elie Saab has his own workshops in Beirut making hundreds of meters of precious embroideries.
On the final note, this book is a great resource for anyone working in the fashion design industry or for those who are curious about what the prestigious studios look like and how the designers work.
Your own personal style
Your wardrobe or style is saying more about you (on first sight) than your curriculum vitae. Stupid but true. It actually always have been. Every generation, every culture, every time has its own standards, values, (moral) codes and fashion build around clothes. And what about religious norms and values? Or status/profession related clothing rules? It has always been a big issue.
From that perspective, talking about a beloved couture item is not such a big deal.
But why do we love the French Chanel jacket so much? Why do we want to know about the construction, the sewing techniques, the history and above all: how are we able to manage to make one on our own? A lot of reasons, not just because….
Chanel style and Coco Chanel’s vision
If we know why Coco Chanel invented the couture Chanel jacket, we would want to make it even more. Even though the Chanel jackets are shaped till perfection, in the early fifties, they were a totally new symbol of freedom after decades of tight corsets and an over-the-top hour-glass silhouette with almost unreachable waist size and pointy high breasts. The shape of the first Chanel jackets seemed almost boxy and masculine in that perspective. Chanel was indeed inspired by menswear but kept an eye on the total look of the suit or outfit which was very feminine and elegant. The jacket has its history and all women loved the new feeling of freedom while looking classy and sophisticated enough to be admired by everyone. The combination of easy-wearing and still looking awesome is something we always wanted. Let’s call it reason number one.
Luxurious clothes are just awesome
Number two is probably because we love the feeling of luxurious clothing. It is very easy to buy mass production these days and we all do it. Cheaper than cheap. Big deals. Bigger Shopping bags full of clothes or delivery within 24 hour.... Apart from cheap, fast and easy-going, we also love the idea of having something special, something unique and very personal. Creating a Chanel Inspired jacket is a very personal experience. Everything personal feels luxurious as it makes you feel unique and not just a face in the crowd.
Therefore reason three goes hand in hand with reason two. Reason three is probably the idea of being unique and having your own style. Style is very important for people and specific women. We want to show our taste, our status, our profession or job and our self-esteem. A Chanel Inspired jacket is a status and a signature and it is very stylish. If you wear your Chanel jacket, everybody will be flabbergasted. It is like being at your very best.
Reason four. “Did you make it yourself?” Is actually not something a seamstress wants to hear. Why not? You should be so proud. It took “some” time and knowledge to make it yourself. You should be so proud! But yet we do not want to hear this question. We want to let people think you bought a real Chanel or you ordered some very luxurious piece of couture from a professional seamstress or atelier…. Whatever your feeling is, it does not matter. It is still a very big compliment because the jacket shows you have a lot of styles.
Reason five. You always have been very creative. It shows. You are very handy with needle and thread and it is a piece of cake for you to make your own curtains, pillows, trousers, skirts or even coats. The Chanel Inspired jacket is next in line. It is a challenge as there has been no challenge before. Finishing the project and wearing the jacket one day, will be a big reward. And maybe you already planned the next jacket-project for yourself or somebody else. Talk about creativity.
Reason six is almost the same. The Chanel Inspired jacket might be a tightly directed approach, but it provides a lot of freedom as well in being creative about the fringes, the buttons, the binding, the colour-combinations and even the length. You can spend more creativity in this jacket than in any outfit you ever produced before.
Personal fitting should be one of the first reasons. The reasons are not in a logical list here. Seven. The jacket will suit you as a comfy sweater lounge outfit. If you took the time to fit and shape it on your body, it will be very perfect.
Sustainability
To make this socially acceptable and a little less selfish, we can also report that it is all very sustainable. A big reason eight, although it could be reason one for sure.... The materials are often of the best quality and last a lot longer than the cheaper ones.
The construction of the jacket also provides the opportunity that it can be repaired or changed if needed. Sure it will be a hell of a job, but it is possible and it is an option if you’ve lost or gained weight or if it is accidentally damaged. (reason 9?)
And now the most generous reason. We are assuming that the seamstresses are making the DIY Chanel jackets for themselves. But it is also likely that you are going to make the jacket for someone else. A very nice niece is begging you for years now, a good friend knows your sewing skills and gives hints on a regular basis or some other beloved girlfriend wants to pay you more than you ever had earned before. Whatever the reason might be, it is very rewarding to sew clothes for somebody else. It’s a pity it can not be a total surprise ( because the fitting-steps really can not be skipped), but the gift will be a big thing anyway.
It will be very satisfying spiritually to do this for another. Enjoy the process and especially enjoy the moment when the receiver unpacks the package, try it on and she will be happier than you could imagine. (And pictures will flow around the internet soon...)
The receiver will be in your debt for a long time, and you will be the absolute hero for years.
Last but not least...
(Are we still counting?) Sewing is a hobby or a profession which is very peaceful. Women have been busy with needle and thread since the beginning of times. Mostly out of necessity, but also often as a relaxation in the form of a moment of rest. Crocheting, knitting, sewing, embroidery, they are activities that people like to do. Mindful meditation is a great way to reduce stress and relax. The results are mentally satisfying and very rewarding.
Last but not least (really….)
Talking about mindful sewing; producing this jacket is certainly not a hasty job. It will take hours, days, weeks, maybe even months before it will be done. Do not make a deadline. Just enjoy the process and realize it will be a slow-sewing project. Especially with all the hand-sewing which requires a bit of experience and skills. It might be even a good option to deliberately delay it yourself sometimes. Step away from it and start something easy. Come back to it when you really have the spirit. However you work, it should be fun.
Good luck!
But now, a new book. A real treasure! You can hardly give a bigger gift to a Chanel-fan like me. Figuratively but also literally. Because it is a big book. A beautiful coffee table book with a striking light blue front and a very appealing content. But different than the others, because it stands out among all the glossy Chanel books, which have been on the coffee table for some time.
The making of a Collection
The book is richly illustrated by Jean-Philipe Delhomee. No illustrations as a side issue, but drawings that are at least 3 to 1 in relation to the text. No photo in this book, not even on the inside flaps of the cover and back page. The illustrations are beautiful, cheerful and very modern. The text of Laetitia Cénac is easy to follow in English for people our Dutch readers. Pleasant letter font, written well and clearly arranged.
Who are the makers of a couture collection?
Apart from all information about the Fashion House Chanel, about Gabrielle Chanel, history and even a list of important dates (pages 234-238), the book is mainly about WHO makes Haute-couture. Every step, from the process of idea (even an interview with Karl Lagerfeld) till the catwalk. The book is mainly about people who all do their work, which contributes to the beautiful couture collections of Chanel.
The first pages are devoted to a fashion show. Before the first model with a beautiful Chanel jacket arrives on the catwalk, a lot has happened. Many people are already involved, who are an important part, but you have never thought about it for a second. Illustrations of the sound designer, the make-up artists, the fitting and dressing team, the stage manager etc. Presenting a collection is not a one-man show of a designer, but a well-oiled machine in which many people play a (big)role.
The book elaborates on this. Back to the very beginning; from fabric to Haute couture. Every part of the collection and the entire making process is discussed, from bags, shoes, gloves, hats, jewelry to fabrics, yarn and threads. There are many pages dedicated to how the materials are made, how choices are made and where and who supplies this material.
An ode to many people, to them all. To all people behind the products, to all people who cooperate or who are important suppliers of the basis for the Chanel collection.
From now on I look at the Chanel collections with even more interest. A superficial world? Opinions are divided on this. The fact is that it is a whole industry and that more people are involved than you might think.
A lot of glitter and glamor in this book, but strikingly enough, the emphasis is more on the entire creative process than on all the lavish luxury, the big money and the inaccessibility of Haute couture for ordinary people. This is mainly due to the modern, joy full drawings and the design of the book. Very well done, because in these times the environmental, climate and economic problems are too big to admit the money smelter of the upper class.
(Let's just hope that all these production processes will also be carried out in an environmentally friendly way and that they will be able to maintain themselves in the coming years. So that we can continue to enjoy the Chanel Haute couture)
At least I have enough inspiration to climb behind the sewing machine ... if I manage to put this book aside for a while.
Fabric Buttons
Chanel once started to produce buttons hand-made mainly from fabric. These couture-made fabric buttons are now very rare. These fabric buttons are often recognizable by the lion's head in the middle. A lot of buttons before the 1970s will actually have a lion’s head embossed on them.
Chanel buttons are also known for their logos of the letters C, the perfume bottles and even the famous jackets.
Chanel buttons are ALWAYS of quality and durable material. Metal, mother-of-pearl, rhinestones and jewels. Coco Chanel also used the Camellia flower as Theme. These Camillia flower buttons are mostly black/gold or white.
Real authentic Chanel buttons
Authentic Chanel buttons are (rarely) on the market, because they are produced in small amounts and mostly made to match the unique garments. Vintage real authentic buttons are difficult to recognize because they used to match the garments perfectly. They are very expensive and for a collector of great value.
New Chanel buttons do not have stamping on the back. Vintage authentic Chanel buttons have stamping on the back. New Chanel buttons are often copied in China and very similar to the real (new) Chanel buttons.
Real Chanel buttons (especially the Vintage onces) are looking like little jewels.
Fake and copies
Fake or copy-Chanel buttons are often lighter, of cheaper material and less subtle. Almost any copy-Chanel button is called a real Chanel-button. It all depends on where they are for sale. Do not expect treasure authentic Chanel buttons for sale on big internet selling-markets/websites.... If you can not believe it is real.... it probaby isn't....
Not real authentic Chanel buttons, but we love:
How to recognize real authentic Chanel Buttons?
Chanel once started to produce buttons hand-made mainly from fabric. These couture-made fabric buttons are now very rare. These fabric buttons are often recognizable by the lion's head in the middle. A lot of buttons before the 1970s will actually have a lion’s head embossed on them.
Chanel buttons are also known for their logos of the letters C, the perfume bottles and even the famous jackets.
Chanel buttons are ALWAYS of quality and durable material. Metal, mother-of-pearl, rhinestones and jewels. Coco Chanel also used the Camellia flower as Theme. These Camillia flower buttons are mostly black/gold or white.
Real authentic Chanel buttons are (rarely) on the market, because they are produced in small amounts and mostly made to match the unique garments. Vintage real authentic buttons are difficult to recognize because they used to match the garments perfectly. They are very expensive and for a collector of great value.
New Chanel buttons do not have stamping on the back. Vintage authentic Chanel buttons have stamping on the back. New Chanel buttons are often copied in China and very similar to the real (new) Chanel buttons.
Real Chanel buttons (especially the Vintage onces) are looking like little jewels.
Fake or copy-Chanel buttons are often lighter, of cheaper material and less subtle. Almost any copy-Chanel button is called a real Chanel-button. It all depends on where they are for sale. Do not expect treasure authentic Chanel buttons for sale on big internet selling-markets/websites.... If you can not believe it is real.... it probaby isn't....
A great source: Vintage Chanel Buttons
But the labels are cut out, and there are no Chanel buttons on them, but it can be a really authentic Chanel jacket ... Tricky to find out, especially since the labels and buttons can confirm the authenticity of a Chanel jacket. But there are other things you can tell from it. Read our article and who knows, maybe that jacket in the mother's closet is a real Chanel jacket or you accidentally bought a real one via Marktplaats, ebay or another second-hand clothing online store. Let us know, we would like to sympathize!
How do you know you have find a real Vintage couture piece of art or just a fake copy? On first sight they look exactly the same, they feels the same and it seems too good to be true. It is quite difficult. These days fakes are on first sight as good as the real onces. There is a whole (black) market on luxury brands on couture, jewelry, toys, games and even make-up. Even Vintage and authentic goods are made with such an knowledge and technical materials; it seems almost impossible to recognize real Vintage these days.
We talk about couture on this website/blog and specific the French Chanel Couture. More specific the famous jacket and skirt.
READ MORE:
Chanel-Style, Pink and the snow....
Let's focus on the jacket:
The pink Chanel-style jacket is made of lovely woolly Bouclé fabric with a silk lining. If you make a Chanel jacket a bit more spacious, it is also often very suitable to wear outside.
Even in the snow;>)
The sewingpattern: | Vogue V8804 |
The color Pink in Chanel couture: | Pink inspirations! |
Sewing tips by Claire Shaeffer: | The couture cardigan jacket |
Sewing level: ?
Fabrics: Demin, Corduroy, Damask, Twill, Wool and wool blends, Tweeds, Brocade, Satin, Shantung, Velvet, Linen and Linen blends.
Notions: Shoudler pads, Ribbon, Buttons, flower, trims, interfacing and lining fabrics.
Good points:
- Sewing level: unknown.... our opinion: MEDIUM - ADVANCED
- Bouclé fabric not mentioned, but perfectly for this jacket
- Lots of variations possible
- Surprisingly GOOD SHAPE !
- Sleeves: wide, very nice for women with heavy arms.
- Great movement, comfortable jacket.
A bit less good points:
- It looks very easy but take your time to create this jacket.
- The longgggg and wide sleeves might look a bit too much for slender figures.
- Round neckline is okay but might be to narrow for women who want to wear the jacket with closed front.
All about the color GREEN in Chanel couture
Expensive materials
Haute couture is made from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabrics. The outerfabric but also the linings, interfacing and all the notions as. well. We are talking about real Silk, real metal, wooden or pearl buttons and the best of the best notions: zippers, hocks, the label-material etc. It is in the detail, so even the price-labels, size-labels etc. are full of details, copyright protected names etc.
Work, and work....
Haute couture is sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers. They are often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. The difference between basic sewing and couture sewing is a big difference. Mainly the time invested, the location of the ateliers (or factories) and mostly the seamstress. The couture houses are working with very skilled seamstress. Before somebody is allowed to cut the expensive fabrics or to sew an ordered piece of couture by a very wealthy client: they have to be big professionals.
Haute OR couture?
Haute is the name. Haute refers to 'high 'the best' , 'the most professional' etc. Haute couture means the best of the best. Haute translates literally to "high".
A haute couture garment is:
- always made for an individual client,
- tailored specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance.
- all about the time, money, and skill allotted to each completed piece
- Haute couture garments are also described as having no price tag
- the best materials for the job
- no budget required
But what about Prêt-à-Porter ?
The real difference between Prêt-à-Porter and Haute couture: Prêt-à-Porter = ready-to-wear. The same beautiful couture garment is not created for an exclusive client but in standard-sizes. The clothes are for sale for those who can afford them. Well, it still means the cloths are extremely expensive, but they are for sale....
Chanel couture, if you win the lottery?
Yes, it is expensive with capitals. We all know a lipstick costs already 30.00 euro even though you can buy a perfect lipstick for 10.00 euro of the other brands. Mainly you pay for the label-name, the package, the smell, the luxury image and above all: a special feeling to have a CHANEL-lipstick!
We all know about the handbags. If you own a real 2.55 Chanel handbag, you are walking around with a real investment. Most handbags starts around 5.000 euro and for some (new) models you have to get on a list, wait for months, maybe even years.
And now: imagine the couture: Day wear usually starts at around euro 10.000, though it does depend on the brand Chanel Haute Couture usually cost between euro 50.000-100.000, while bridal can easily cost euro 100.000-150.000. So start saving money, or better: start to learn how to create couture yourself.
HAUTE COUTURE YOURSELF!
Couture houses or labels don't mass-produce. They'll make 100 garments a year instead of 1.000, or even instead of mass production to sell the clothes allover the world.... So now you understand WHY the real Haute couture is so extremely expensive.
The choice between real couture and mass-production cheap clothes is easy. you have to get dressed, so you have to buy what's available down the streets or on the internet.
BUTTTT...... start sewing yourself and you are able to create your own Haute couture.
- Does the clothes fitt? MAKE them to fit!
- Is the material good quality? BUY good quality materials yourself!
- Everybody is walking around in the same clothes... MAKE something special and personal!
- Can I afford a real beautiful jacket or fitting dress? YES you can!
MORE INFO
13 reasons why you should make your own Chanel-style jacket
How to know if you have a real Vintage-Chanel jacket or a fake one?
SewingChanelStyle supports the Pink Ribbon month by giving it some extra attention and promote the Pink Ribbon Foundation on Social Media.
Read all about the color Pink on our special page about
Pink Chanel couture jackets:
The Pink Jacket
&
The Pink Pied de Poule Jacket
Expensive materials
Haute couture is made from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabrics. The outerfabric but also the linings, interfacing and all the notions as. well. We are talking about real Silk, real metal, wooden or pearl buttons and the best of the best notions: zippers, hocks, the label-material etc. It is in the detail, so even the price-labels, size-labels etc. are full of details, copyright protected names etc.
Work, and work....
Haute couture is sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers. They are often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. The difference between basic sewing and couture sewing is a big difference. Mainly the time invested, the location of the ateliers (or factories) and mostly the seamstress. The couture houses are working with very skilled seamstress. Before somebody is allowed to cut the expensive fabrics or to sew an ordered piece of couture by a very wealthy client: they have to be big professionals.
Haute OR couture?
Haute is the name. Haute refers to 'high 'the best' , 'the most professional' etc. Haute couture means the best of the best. Haute translates literally to "high".
A haute couture garment is:
- always made for an individual client,
- tailored specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance.
- all about the time, money, and skill allotted to each completed piece
- Haute couture garments are also described as having no price tag
- the best materials for the job
- no budget required
But what about Prêt-à-Porter ?
The real difference between Prêt-à-Porter and Haute couture: Prêt-à-Porter = ready-to-wear. The same beautiful couture garment is not created for an exclusive client but in standard-sizes. The clothes are for sale for those who can afford them. Well, it still means the cloths are extremely expensive, but they are for sale....
Chanel couture, if you win the lottery?
Yes, it is expensive with capitals. We all know a lipstick costs already 30.00 euro even though you can buy a perfect lipstick for 10.00 euro of the other brands. Mainly you pay for the label-name, the package, the smell, the luxury image and above all: a special feeling to have a CHANEL-lipstick!
We all know about the handbags. If you own a real 2.55 Chanel handbag, you are walking around with a real investment. Most handbags starts around 5.000 euro and for some (new) models you have to get on a list, wait for months, maybe even years.
And now: imagine the couture: Day wear usually starts at around euro 10.000, though it does depend on the brand Chanel Haute Couture usually cost between euro 50.000-100.000, while bridal can easily cost euro 100.000-150.000. So start saving money, or better: start to learn how to create couture yourself.
HAUTE COUTURE YOURSELF!
Couture houses or labels don't mass-produce. They'll make 100 garments a year instead of 1.000, or even instead of mass production to sell the clothes allover the world.... So now you understand WHY the real Haute couture is so extremely expensive.
The choice between real couture and mass-production cheap clothes is easy. you have to get dressed, so you have to buy what's available down the streets or on the internet.
BUTTTT...... start sewing yourself and you are able to create your own Haute couture.
- Does the clothes fitt? MAKE them to fit!
- Is the material good quality? BUY good quality materials yourself!
- Everybody is walking around in the same clothes... MAKE something special and personal!
- Can I afford a real beautiful jacket or fitting dress? YES you can!
MORE INFO
13 reasons why you should make your own Chanel-style jacket
How to know if you have a real Vintage-Chanel jacket or a fake one?
---------------------------
Chanel: The Making of a Collection
by
laetitia Cénac
How to recognize a real Chanel Vintage authentic jacket?
How do you know you have find a real Vintage couture piece of art or just a fake copy? On first sight they look exactly the same, they feels the same and it seems too good to be true. It is quite difficult. These days fakes are on first sight as good as the real onces. There is a whole (black) market on luxury brands on couture, jewelry, toys, games and even make-up. Even Vintage and authentic goods are made with such an knowledge and technical materials; it seems almost impossible to recognize real Vintage these days.
We talk about couture on this website/blog and specific the French Chanel Couture. More specific the famous jacket and skirt.
It is too easy to say that fakes are mostly made of cheaper materials. The quality of the materials, fabrics in this case, are key. Even though fakes can look quite identical, the real couture of course has the luxury of using the best fabrics in the world. But.... the materials of the fakes are coming close; think about leather versus pu-leather. Even though they look the same, leather behaves differently in time and feels like leather should feel.
read more
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