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How to make a 'Chanel-Style' jacket


All about the Chanel-jacket, creating your own Chanel-Style jacket,
couture book reviews and products reviews*

* We are non-profit website

Couture Sewing, Tailoring Techniques, review

19/11/2021

 
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Couture Sewing,  Tailoring Techniques  by Claire Shaeffer

This book is about  tailoring techniques and sewing secrets of such renowned designers as Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga. Get an insider's view of the couture industry. Author and fashion expert Claire B. Shaeffer shares garment tailoring techniques, construction methods, and even short cuts used in the finest European ateliers of Paris, Rome and London.

Shaeffer presents viewers with an in-depth tailoring workshop, demonstrating key techniques such as converting darts to ease, creating a patch pocket, interfacing a hem, stitching a fly zipper, and making a bound buttonhole.


Read More

Couture cutting is gold!

24/8/2020

 
In Dutch
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As a child you learn to cut at school and you will continue to do it all your life. It is such a basic action in life, you never think about it for a minute. In the couture world, however, cutting is a big deal. In fact: cutting is an important couture technique.

Cutting as a tailor
In Haute couture world, expensive materials are used.  As a  hobby seamstress you are probably buying less expensive fabrics. Maybe you bought a fabric of 10 euros per meter, or maybe one of 30 euros. Suppose  you need 1.5 meters for a jacket, so you are cutting a piece of fabric of 45 euros. In the worst case, and that happens a lot, you make a mistake and you screw up the piece of fabric.

Disaster, s.o.s.
This happens to everyone a few times. Even advanced seamstress are making mistakes.
You forgot the grain of the fabric or you forgot to cut extra inches for the hems. Or you will find out that you have cut two right sleeves.
Not a disaster, if you have bought enough fabric, but a (small) disaster if you have to buy the fabric, but it is just not available anymore.

Cutting is part of the entire project that should not be underestimated. The more accurately you cut the pattern, the better the next step of your project.
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Scissors are the workers!
When you start sewing, it looks like the scissors are no longer needed. But nothing is less true. Cutting is a big part of the whole process. You have to cut the corners, you have to make notches for the curves and you often have to trim the hems when the fabric has to be sewn together on the right sides.
And: the scissor is your big friend if you don't have a lock machine (yet). You have to cut precisely and zigzag the hems. And even if it is just the inside of the garment, the more accurately you work, the better and more professional are the result(s).

Cutting as art
In the book Ultimate Sewing Bible beautiful drawings about cutting or "couture cutting" are described:
  • trimming corners of the fabric so the fabric folds in a better way
  • cutting angled corners, you need a scissor with long blades (like the golden scissor)
  • cutting-in (= clipping) sharp corners
  • cutting triangles out of concave curves to avoid unwanted stretch in the fabric
  • cutting convex curves so that superfluous fabric does not cause bumps.

​A lot of precise work but it will be worth the effort!

We want gold!
It is therefore soooooo important to work with good scissors. A wire cutter for finishing the remaining wire. A stork scissors for small secure work and a golden pair of scissors to cut the fabric and the lining and to keep at hand for cutting during the sewing process.

A very fine pair of scissors is the Golden Scissor. Razor sharp, very precise and comfortable in the hand. These scissors are the number one in quality sewing scissors for the sewing world.

Our best buy:
  • Razor sharp
  • Good grip
  • perfect for cutting Bouclé fabrics
  • and for the finest silk fabrics
  • not too heavy, bot too light
  • looks glam
  • Just bloody perfect !

Nothing as ordinary and unimportant as scissors? No, nothing as important as good scissors! A small investment but a tool that makes your sewing project looks like a piece of couture-art.
Our best buy: The Golden Scissor

Why do you need an overlocker?

14/8/2020

 
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As a seamstress you might wonder WHY you need an overlocker and WHICH overlocker.
We will answer loud and clear and help you to decide which overlocker works for you.


An overlocker: yes, but why?
First of all: it is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewing work so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson.

For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time.
So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. The result will be the difference between: "Nice jacket, mmm ... homemade?" And "Wowwwww, such a nice jacket. You are kidding me, did you make it really yourself ???”


In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks.
And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake.

But we won’t tell anyone, because you have just saved a huge amount of money by making your own curtains...

Why do you need a lock machine?
That's why. For all those things that an overlocker does and a sewing machine does not. Or maybe the sewing machine is able to the job but you need special feet. And above all: an overlocker is cutting and sewing at the same time.
Now don't dump your sewing machine straight to the thrift store because with an overlocker in addition to a sewing machine, you create beautiful sewingwork and it definitely looks more professional.


Which overlocker do you need?
Overlockers are for sale in different price ranges.
The cheapest is around 200-300 euros and the most expensive are around 1000 euros.
The difference between the cheaper variants and the expensive ones is often in the fact that an expensive overlocker has an air pump threading system.
The threads are blown through the machine, on the way to the end at the needles. This is especially easy for people who are less handy or who don't have the patience to manage the threading themselves.


The expensive overlockers often have more options in terms of stitches and some options are automatically. The same as with a sewing machines. The more expensive the sewing machine, the more options and possibilities.

Professional results
Often the remark "Did you make it yourself..." does not feel like a compliment. Somehow people are noticing the difference between self-made clothes and the stuff you buy in a store. But as soon as you start working with an overlocker, you will no longer hear these words. Why not? Because your sewing work is now so precisely finished; it looks very professional!

Let’s start adding beautiful labels with your own name or "self-made" on the clothes, because from now on, nobody believes it anymore. With an overlocker: your sewing work looks like Haute Couture Yourself.
And "Oh wow, did you really make it yourself???" becomes a very big compliment! And you will answer very proudly: "YESSsss!"
MORE INFO:
The best buy: Overlocker Lewenstein 700DE

The best sewing tools and accessories

2/6/2020

 
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A sewing machine, a piece of fabric and an idea ..
these are enough to do the job..?  many novice seamstress might think... . But that is unfortunately not true. With a sewingmachine, a sewingpattern and a piece of fabric, you can go a long way but you are not there yet.
Let's think for a while: cooking or baking is your passion. A pan, a recipe, the ingredients and let's start cooking. But that is not the reality. In an average household you should not just open a kitchen cupboard, chances are that a load of things will look at you. As soon as cooking or baking is a passion, a lot of kitchen tools are needed and wanted. From spatulas to food processors. They make it easier for you, they give you more options and possibilities and you enjoy the cooking big time.


Sewing as a hobby or passion!
This also applies to sewing. No overcrowded cupboards full of stuff are needed, but we like to mention the best sewing supplies, tools or accessoires. These are simply very useful and make it easier for you. And make you enjoy sewing even more. Of course you do not have to purchase all these items immediately. But put them on your wishlist. Or buy the tools as soon as they are on sale. On the market they are sometimes in large containers, or on webshops they are listed under 'parts' or sometimes under 'haberdashery'. In this case, the following applies: cheap is expensive. It is better to buy a good good pair of scissors than ten times a bad cheap version. And the first option is also a lot more sustainable.


These little sewing tools are BIG friends:     
  • a seam ripper (indispensable tool!)     
  • good scissors: the golden scissors, pinking shears, small scissors and a wire cutter     
  • sewingmachine needles (always have different sizes in stock: silk fabrics, elastic fabrics or thicker jeans, ask for different sewing machine needles than the other fabrics)     
  • sewingmachine feet (every sewing machine has a few standard feet, but if you sew intensively, several special feet are a very useful tool)     
  • corner and edge former (it's just a small piece of plastic, but oh so handy to shape corners. And many times better than puncturing the fabric with scissors)     
  • a pincushion and especially ironing pads! In other words: called Tailor's ham.
Read more about;
the best sewing supplies, tools and accessories

Let's sew outside!

9/4/2020

 
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Buying a handy sewing machine is now a good plan! The worst thing in this bizarre time is that we don't know how long our #staythome will be necessary to stop the virus Corona. We look at the situation from day to day and hope that we can all go out again soon.
Enjoy spring, family at home and try to enjoy the ordinary things in life.

In the sewing world, there is a lot of anticipation that many people will now have time for their hobby. The fabric shops come with nice offers, the sewing magazines have interesting blogs and even patterns of mouth masks come along.

Many reasons to start sewing!

It might be an idea to finally make a decision and buy a sewing machine or maybe one more.
Take a look at our reviews!

The Toyota TSEW2 ERGONOMIC

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Toyota TSEW2 Ergonomic (EN)We are happy to test the Toyota TSEW2 and came to the conclusion that this is an ideal machine for, for example, taking it to a sewingworkshops (if it continues in limited groups, or private lessons) or to sit outside. Table on the terrace or balcony, and enjoy the fresh air and creative sewing.

Making an Easter dress, sewing mouth masks or making summer clothes ... Very good things to stay positive in difficult times. This lightweight sewingmachine is just part of this. Especially as a beginner, it will be a great sewing machine and as a medium advanced seamstress you can have just as much fun with it.
Read our test report and make a decision!

A Sewing Mannequin is your best friend

10/2/2020

 

All about sewing mannequins; tips & tricks

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Our best buy: Sewing Mannequin ' Sierra' 
&
Mannequin adaptor

Why does a seamstress need a sewing mannequin?
Is it really such a great product?
​Is it really necessary to have your own sewing mannequin? YES!
​


A mannequin is THE best friend of a seamstress! We do not mean: mannequins such as the mannequins on display in fashion stores, but adjustable mannequins. These are indispensable to make tailor-made clothing!


Adjustable mannequins

There are many types and sizes for sale on the market. It is difficult for a beginner- seamstress to make a good choice. Most mannequins look a bit overwhelming. Do you really need the accessories and do you really need to have so many options in terms of size settings?

Read more

Overlocker Lewenstein 700 DE: a review!

6/1/2020

 
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Our review:

First impression:
Excellent packaging. The lock machine is packed tightly with lots of polystyrene for protection. It arrived in perfect condition.
The lock machine comes with a handy collection tray, for saving threads and dust ! The container is not large but it fits well.
The overlocker looks plain. For a techie who loves buttons, technical gadgets, and flashing lights, this may be a disappointment. However, for those who loves simplicity and no unnecessary frills, the machine looks perfect.
The machine is made of strong plastic (not metal). Kit is therefore easy to lift, saving weight and avoiding an old-fashioned look. Its design is even child-friendly crounded corners. This makes the machine look friendly, feminine and, above all, easy to use. The machine stands firm/steady on a desk.

Let’s get to work!

1. The cover and the manual:
The supplied cover (plastic cover) is made of plastic. It is ideal for preventing dust, one should replace it with prettier design. Time to make one!
The manual limits itself to four languages, Dutch, German, English, and French. Dutch is immediately on the first language, at the far left of the page. The manual is in A4 horizontal format. The letters are small (reading glasses needed!) The visual instructions are large and clear.

2. Preparation:
Starting up, is not the best part of the process. But the manual and Matri, will pull your through. Lots of articles have been written about starting up a locker, because threading is often so difficult that there are enough seamstresses who throw the lock machine out the window if they haven't given up the fight and and accept cutting and zigzagging forever. Though kickstarting the process is tricky, once you have it going, a lock machine offer endless posibilities. (see point 3.)

The lighting is good. The light appears clear and focused. Replacing the light is easy. This is described in the manual on the very last page (40).

The preparations can also be seen on the videos: https://www.matri.eu/lockmachines/lewenstein-lockmachine-700de

3. Threading:
The manual is clear, even for a beginner. Threading the threads is described per thread on a whole page. Threading the upper gripper and the lower gripper is equally difficult but both the manual and the inside of the flap clearly indicate this, per color. Do not give up should the first attempts leave you wondering. In the long run, it will be just as easy as the sewing machine and you will settle in a routine just like using a sewing-machine. Tip: start with red threads. This makes it easier to see what you are doing and you are less likely to make mistakes, such as with white threads.

4. Overlocking:
With a sewing machine you keep a distance to ensure thread tension. With a locker you can "play" with the thread tension. On pages 24 and 25 of the manual, you find extensive instructions should one of the four threads fails to being properly tensioned.

Tip: The book: The Overlocker Technique manual from Julia Hincks, describes in detail how you can make beautiful stitches with 2-thread, 3 or 4-thread settings.

The sound of the engine is normal.

The free-arm option is IDEAL! Now you are able to lock a sleeve neatly and easier. The free arm option makes creating couture a lot easier because you can work far more precisely.


5. Accessories:
The purchased locker foot set is highly recommended should you intend to use the lock machine intensively.https://www.matri.eu/naaimachine-onderdelen/overlock-machine-voeten/lewenstein-overlock-voeten/overlock-voeten-set-5-stuks-1332

This set makes it possible to blind-hem, to lock elastic fabrics even better, to thread in cords or pearl chains, and to piping and wrinkling.

The blind set includes the blindhem foot, which is an ideal foot if you want to blindhem large pieces, such as curtains. Blindhemming always seems a lot of work, but with this foot it is a piece of cake.

We tested the feet and were especially enthusiastic about the rolled-hem foot. This is ideal for thinner fabrics and still looks a lot better than normal hemming. It is also fun to do it with the locker.

The pearl foot is a nice extra accessory for finishing a real couture garment. You probably won't do this so often, but if that possibility is there, and it's not at all that difficult as you think at first, you'll probably do it more often. After all, it gives a finishing touch or a very personal touch to a piece of clothing.

Schedule an afternoon to practice with the feet and that time will pay for itself in even better working with the overlocker! An explanation of the use of the feet: click on this link.


Maintenance
The manual contains tips for maintenance and trouble-shooting in the event of problems. The supplier's website also contains a few links with tips for maintenance.

Spare parts are available: https://www.sewingmachine-parts.com/overlockers

Lost manuals can be downloaded; by brand and type of locker on the above link.


Replacement of the blades and the light are described in the manual. Please always switch off the lock machine first! Replacing the blades is a job that you will not have to do often. The blades are razor sharp and have a long service life.

ALWAYS buy an extra set of blades for the locker. It happens very often that you accidentally locked a pin and no matter how fast Matri is with delivery time, you still have to wait another day for a new knife. This extra purchase is a necessary part of your locker adventure.

Concluding
  • The Lewenstein 700de is a basic but excellent overlocker.
  • The free-arm option is ideal.
  • Threading the threads is not easy, but it can be done.
  • The lock machine is robust and suitable for a beginner.
  • The price-quality is good. If you want to do more with the overlocker, the extra foot-set is recommended, as is the book Sewing with the lock machine from Julia Hicks. This book provides inspiring ideas to loverlock forever!
  • Using a overlock next to a sewing machine will enable you to give your designs a neat and professional appearance.

An overlocker: do you really need an other sewingmachine?

27/11/2019

 
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WHY you need an overlocker and WHICH overlocker?
We will answer loud and clear and help you to decide which overlocker works best for you.


An overlocker: do you really need an other sewingmachine?
First of all: it is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewingwork so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson.

For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time.

So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. The result will be the difference between:
"Nice jacket, mmm ... homemade?" And "Wowwwww, such a nice jacket. You are kidding me, did you make it really yourself ???”

In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks.
And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake.

But we won’t tell anyone, because you have just saved a huge amount of money by making your own curtains...


Why do you need a lock machine?
For all those things that an overlocker does and a sewing machine does not. Or maybe the sewing machine is able to the job but you need special feet. And above all: an overlocker is cutting and sewing at the same time.
With an overlocker in addition to a sewing machine, you create beautiful sewingwork and it definitely looks more professional.


Which overlocker do you need?
Overlockers are for sale in different price ranges.

The cheapest is around 200-300 euros and the most expensive are around 1000 euros.

The difference between the cheaper variants and the expensive ones is often in the fact that an expensive overlocker has
an air pump threading system.
The threads are blown through the machine, on the way to the end at the needles. This is especially easy for people who are less handy or who don't have the patience to manage the threading themselves.

The expensive overlockers often have more options in terms of stitches and some options are automatically. The same as with a sewing machines. The more expensive the sewing machine, the more options and possibilities.


Professional results
Often the remark "Did you make it yourself..." does not feel like a compliment. Somehow people are noticing the difference between self-made clothes and the stuff you buy in a store. But as soon as you start working with an overlocker, you will no longer hear these words. Why not? Because your sewingwork is now so precisely finished; it looks very professional!

Let’s start adding beautiful labels with your own name or "self-made" on the clothes, because from now on, nobody believes it anymore. With an overlocker: your sewingwork looks like Haute Couture Yourself.
And
"Oh wow, did you really make it yourself???" becomes a very big compliment! And you will answer very proudly: "YESSsss!"

MORE INFO:

The best buy:
Overlocker Lewenstein 700DE


Testing Bernette B70 Deco

8/10/2019

 
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The Bernette 70 Deco is a beautiful embroiderymachine.
We are allowed to test the embroiderymachine and we do it with a lot of fun.

Read all about it

Toyota Power Fabriq 17 is great sewing power !

10/9/2019

 
Toyota Power Fabriq 17 review 
We have tested this powerful sewingmachine for you !

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The Toyota Power Fabriq 17 is an excellent sewing machine for when you like to work with heavier fabrics such as jeans, canvas, light leather materials and furniture fabrics. The sewing machine can process these fabrics nicely and the result looks professional. However, the sewing machine is not a leather machine and should therefore not be used for this.

The sewing machine has a few surprising extras such as the manual, the included yarns and the hidden Quick Advisor booklet.

The Toyota Power 17 has a really nice appearance and is one to be proud of. We do recommend that you purchase a sewing machine bag in case you use it. The sewing machine has no handle and is slightly heavier than average. There is a recess in the back: this is the built-in handle.

read more

Review: Veritas Florence sewingmachine and embroidery-machine-in-one

2/8/2019

 
Our review: The Veritas Florence sewingmachine and embroiderymachine-in-one
Veritas Florence: a unique sewing and embroidery machine in 1. In addition to all the practical sewing stitches, including many stretch and decorative stitches, 6 different buttonholes and of course the possibility of using a double needle, this sewing machine can be quickly turned into a fantastic embroidery machine.

Embroidery is now accessible for everyone and no longer requires a large, heavy special embroidery machine.
With the Veritas Florence it goes almost completely automatically. The possibility of working via your smartphone or computer is innovative and user-friendly. In no time you can create imaginative patterns that give a personal touch to your sewing-projects.

The Veritas Florence is of very high quality and you will enjoy this sewing and embroidery machine for years.


We are allowed to test the sewing machine!
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Pure lite light

19/6/2019

 
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PureLite Handy lamp rechargeable.

The height of the lamp is ideal for use next to, in front of or behind your sewing machine or serger.This modern rechargeable lamp has 3 colors that you can set with the on and off touch button.

Read our test !

An overlocker for the perfect finishing touch

21/5/2019

 
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WHY you need an overlocker and WHICH overlocker?
We will answer loud and clear and help you to decide which overlocker works best for you.


An overlocker: do you really need an other sewingmachine?
First of all: it is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewingwork so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson.

For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time.

So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. The result will be the difference between: "Nice jacket, mmm ... homemade?" And "Wowwwww, such a nice jacket. You are kidding me, did you make it really yourself ???”


In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks.
And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake.

But we won’t tell anyone, because you have just saved a huge amount of money by making your own curtains...

Why do you need a lock machine?
For all those things that an overlocker does and a sewing machine does not. Or maybe the sewing machine is able to the job but you need special feet. And above all: an overlocker is cutting and sewing at the same time.
With an overlocker in addition to a sewing machine, you create beautiful sewingwork and it definitely looks more professional.


Which overlocker do you need?
Overlockers are for sale in different price ranges.

The cheapest is around 200-300 euros and the most expensive are around 1000 euros.

The difference between the cheaper variants and the expensive ones is often in the fact that an expensive overlocker has an air pump threading system.
The threads are blown through the machine, on the way to the end at the needles. This is especially easy for people who are less handy or who don't have the patience to manage the threading themselves.


The expensive overlockers often have more options in terms of stitches and some options are automatically. The same as with a sewing machines. The more expensive the sewing machine, the more options and possibilities.

Professional results
Often the remark "Did you make it yourself..." does not feel like a compliment. Somehow people are noticing the difference between self-made clothes and the stuff you buy in a store. But as soon as you start working with an overlocker, you will no longer hear these words. Why not? Because your sewingwork is now so precisely finished; it looks very professional!

Let’s start adding beautiful labels with your own name or "self-made" on the clothes, because from now on, nobody believes it anymore. With an overlocker: your sewingwork looks like Haute Couture Yourself.
And "Oh wow, did you really make it yourself???" becomes a very big compliment! And you will answer very proudly: "YESSsss!"

MORE INFO:

The best buy: Overlocker Lewenstein 700DE

The best buy: Sewing Mannequin ' Sierra' & Mannequin adaptor

14/5/2019

 
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The best buy:
Sewing Mannequin ' Sierra' 
&
Mannequin adaptor

Review:
Delivery: within 24 hours 
Package: Light-weight box (5 kg.) 70 x 37 x 23 cm.
Manual: 4 languages (EN, DU, SP and FR): easy 
and clear drawings 

​The mannequin - or ' dressform' has a lot of options for creating the perfect size. The more the better! 

It is also very stable, which we love. Nothing more frustrating than a mannequin with difficult 'loose' feet. A mannequin is a seamstress best friend, or girlfriend and normally we are very careful with our equipment, but it has to be said: moving a mannequin around is something everybody does. Easy transport (without loosing the feet on the way) is really necessary. Sierra has a great stable standard without getting heavy.
The standard is small enough so that you do not stumble over it when you are fitting the clothes and have to walk around the doll.

Also a big pro is the nylon-foam-fabric on Sierra.  It is perfect to fit the clothes on it, without it slipping away. Even silk remains on its place. It is also easy to pin and for draping clothes.

We love the neutral grey color. The grey color allows you to concentrate on the clothes. It is also a great non-color if you need to photograph your creations. ​

Last but not least: The best buy!

Best buy: Coverlocker Janome Coverpro CPX

17/4/2019

 
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Read our test-review!

We tested the Coverlocker intensively and tell you all the pro's en cons.

MORE INFO:

What is the difference between an overlocker and a coverlockmachine?

What is the difference between an overlocker and a coverlocker?

6/2/2019

 
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An overlocker or a coverlock machine?

Why does a seamstress needs an overlocker?  If you are sewing clothes and want to give the results professional appearance, you definitely need an overlocker. An overlocker and a sewing machine are the perfect combination for a seamstress. You need the sewing machine for the sewing work and an overlocker for the perfect fishing touch. It is though possible to sew without an overlocker, but the result will never be as beautiful and professional as you would like it to be.

The finishing touch is guaranteed with an overlocker. Nicely cut and overlocked hems and edges. Beautiful ‘self-made’ clothes!


An overlocker:

If you have decided to buy an overlocker, you suddenly notice the term "coverlock". Or "cover stitch machine" or "coverlock-combination". Help, what does it mean? Are these machines the same? Or are we talking about two entirely different machines with their own specific functions? Don't panic, we'll explain it to you:

Why do you need an overlocker:
An overlocker or also known as a "lockmachine" is used to sew stretchable fabrics together and to finish with the 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch. This gives your sewing-work a professional look. You can also easily finish woven or frayed fabrics.In addition, the lockmachine also makes blind hems, neat zoom edges and decorative edges in multiple variations. The overlocker cuts and sews at the same time. Turn any item of clothing inside out and look at the seams: neatly and straightly finished with an overlocker.
An overlocker is a supplement to your sewing machine but not a replacement.

What about cover stitches:
You often hear the terms ‘cover stitches’ when sewing with stretchy fabrics such as stretch fabrics for a t-shirt, sweater or beautiful jersey dress. Jeans fabrics are nowadays more elastic than ever. But those fabrics are difficult to finish and no matter how you try, the result of the sewing work will look like "self-made". This should be a compliment, but always feels a bit like: not thát nice; it is not the stuff you buy in a store...

Cover stitches are those stitches you notice at the bottom or at the neck of a t-shirt. On the right side of the fabric you will see a double row of stitches and loops at the back. This stitch is extremely stretchable and the best option for finishing stretch fabrics. It is really a very professional hem that looks like two rows of stitching on the top and a serger-like stitch on the back. The benefit of a cover stitch is its stretch ability and the covering of the raw edge all in one pass. You may have thought that these are always made by factory-machines, but that is not truth. Or maybe it is true, but you can cover stitch at home!

A coverlock machine:
With a cover lock machine you can make those stitches and finish your sewing nicely!
BUT: The cover stitch can only be made on coverlock machines and on combination overlocker-coverlock machines and not on a regular lock machine. (Unless the lockmachine does have the option: look in the manual for ‘cover stitching’, normally these lockmachines are more expensive than the normal lockmachines)

A coverlock machine is also called a Coverstitch or a covermachine.

Overlocker or coverlock machine?
The distinction is therefore fairly simple. A lock machine is doing better cutting and locking work. A cover lock machine does the typical cover stitches that are used for zoom edges. A combination of a lock machine and coverlock also exists. However, these machines are more complicated to use (and more expensive). A normal lockmachine and a separate coverlock machine works a lot better and more efficiently. You don't have to change the overlocker in terms of settings to make the cover stitches.

Your sewing equipment are your best friends!
If it still not loud and clear: think of an oven. You can heat up food in an oven, as well as in a microwave. Yet these are both different processes for preparing a tasty meal. An oven-microwave combination also exists. Make sure that you properly switch from the one to the other function as you do not want a melted frozen meal including the foil or package. In either ways: if the result should be a nice delicious meal for the whole family, with both heating and preparing-options you have a bigger chance of success and you buy a piece ( = both machines) of convenience.

Home-made!
Let's just stick to the sewing work. Imagine that you want to make a nice jersey summer dress. You are sewing the dress with a sewingmachine, then finish the seams with an overlocker. The coverlock machine does the final work: the dress is beautifully hemmed with cover stitches and now looks perfect. “Did you really make it yourself?” are friends asking you, because nobody will believe it !

All about sewing mannequins and Facts & Stories

10/5/2018

 
Why does a seamstress need a sewing mannequin?
Is it really such a great product?
​Is it really necessary to have your own sewing mannequin? YES!
​

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A sewing mannequin is THE best friend of a seamstress! We do not mean: mannequins such as the mannequins on display in fashion stores, but adjustable mannequins. These are indispensable to make tailor-made clothing!


Adjustable mannequins

There are many types and sizes for sale on the market. It is difficult for a beginner- seamstress to make a good choice. Most mannequins look a bit overwhelming. Do you really need the accessories and do you really need to have so many options in terms of size settings?


Too many choices? 
Which mannequin is your best-buy? What is important to notice and how do you know the difference between a good mannequin and a less good mannequin? It is important to think carefully before you are going to buy the mannequin. Do you sew clothes exclusively for yourself or for customers?

Time-saver and a critical eye
A sewing mannequin is a handy tool, not only because it will save many fitting sessions (=time and money), but also because you can continuously fit the clothing.
Viewing the mannequin from a distance, ensures your critically eye at the clothing. Moreover, it is a lot more convenient to pin off clothing. In particular, consider the benefits of tailoring the back nicely. No matter how creative and lean you are; it has never been possible for a seamstress to fit the in front of a mirror ....

​We have made an overview with points for attention:
  • Please note that if you are looking for an adjustable mannequin, you are not looking for a "mannequin" that is on display in fashion stores to show clothing. Look especially at sewing stores and web stores for the sewing and hobby world. 
  • In terms of naming it changes quite a bit on the internet. In English a sewing mannequin is usually called "Sewing mannequin" but it is also called a manikin, dummy, lay figure or dress form.
  • It seems logical but: do you want a man's or women's mannequin? Gender neutral nowadays also exists, but usually the mannequins are nevertheless classified according to 'men' or 'lady' body shapes.
  • Do you want a larger size or a smaller size? The sizes are very important: you don't just 'make' larger sizes from an S-size. Conversely, too: you cannot adjust an L-mannequin to an S or XS size. The adjust-ability is more in the mutual proportions of the body parts than in clothing sizes as we are used to.
  • Nobody is perfect. A mannequin that has the ideal size is nice and nice, but a mannequin that is easily adjustable in several places, at least 8, (also think of the neck and back length) is the ideal friend of every dressmaker!
  • Will the mannequin get a permanent place or will you move the mannequin often? Nothing is as annoying as the standard on which the doll stands, constantly having to 'make' it again. With many mannequins, the 'feet' consist of three tubes that are perfectly stable, but fall apart as soon as you lift the mannequin. In this case it is really better to buy a fixed foot / standard.
  • In terms of color: do you want a striking red mannequin as an eye-catcher in your studio? Or would you prefer a black dress that looks great on that wedding dress? Or would you prefer a gray one with is more decent? The gray one is also more pleasant in case you often put the clothes on the photo ...
  • An absolute must: buy an adapter with it. Especially if you often make pants and skirts, it is nice that you do not always have to remove the mannequin 's body from the standard. You can also move the adapter to the left or right so that you can play the trouser legs neatly one by one.
  • Last but not least: buy a mannequin that is covered with good fabric. The fabric is very important because you don't want the clothes to slip off or your pins to disappear. Or the reverse: the material is difficult to pin and it just does not cooperate.
  • Last but not least: the prices vary greatly but one thing is for sure: you often buy a mannequin once. So it is really worth the investment to buy a good mannequin that will last for years.​
Facts and stories
A sewing mannequin (also called a manikin, dummy, lay figure or dress form) is an often articulated doll used by artists, tailors, dressmakers, window dressers and others especially to display or fit clothing.


If you need help marking hems or particular skirts; a sewing mannequin is the best help you can get.
Also if you sew for clients: a mannequin is perfect to fit the clothes every time needed. Most mannequins have several sizes-options, sometimes even 8 or more.
'No-body' has the perfect body; sewing mannequins are a great help for fitting clothes on bodies which are not-standard sizes.


While these forms generally have a much higher price tag (usually between $100and $1,000), their features and longevity significantly outweigh those of the standard display versions.
For one, professional dress forms feature more accurate proportions and are available in a variety of sizes.
Fashion designers sometimes use a technique called draping when designing and sewing garments. Basically, it involves draping fabric around a dress form and pinning it into the desired shape.
Retailers use various techniques to display their products so as to attract the potential buyers. Mannequins, help the retailers to draw the customers to their stores. ...
​They are important tools of retail business.
They first communicate with the customers through visual merchandising.
​
Every Couture-house owns a lot of sewing mannequins and some sewing mannequins are even labelled and exclusively for important clients.
If the client gain weight, she has to inform the couture-house...
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