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2020: The Patchwork trend!

29/11/2020

 
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Patchwork is very 2020 ánd the future!

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Thrilled to Pieces:
A survey of patchwork on the runways (Vogue)

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The ultimate chic upcycling gift:
from ties to laptop sleeve

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Tips & Tricks:
what to do with fabric leftovers?

Summarized:
We love patchwork !

How to make a chic clutch?

24/11/2020

 

Holiday series with creative suggestions,
sewing patterns and fabrics

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The clutch bag is a small, flat handbag. The handbag is usually without handles or straps. Sometimes the larger clutch do have handles or detachable straps.  The clutch is made a some sort of envelop and designed to be handheld or carried under your arm.The Clutch is compact and is usually used for evening occasions to carry minimal essentials like a phone, credit cards, or cosmetic items.

Clutch bags are very old!
Bags and purses are known from very old paintings and tapestries. But just a few survived history and are shown in musea.  The materials were often not good enough to save the clutch bags for centuries.
A seven hundred year of bag owned by the Courtauld Gallery in London may well be the oldest surviving example of a clutch bag. The bag is originally from the city of Mosul in Northern Iraq and is a clear indication that such accessories were, from the outset, signifies of wealth and status. Extraordinarily modern in design, the bag has a solid brass body and is inlaid with scenes of courtly life in gold and silver. A front flap is fastened with a catch, just like a contemporary ‘envelope clutch’.

In Medieval Europe, women wore small bags attached to a belt.  Bags and purses were mainly concealed for reasons of security but a change in fashion led to the purse/bag becoming a beloved object.

Last centuries clutch bags were mostly a combination of some sort of jewellery and bag.  Metals, exquisite gems and fabrics were used to create clutches. More recently the clutch is mainstream. Cheap, comfortable or very exclusive and expensive.
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How to wear a clutch bag?
One of the attractions of the clutch is its theatricality. A clutch bag means you do not have to carry your own stuff, you only need to worry about your lipstick, a small mirror or whatever.  Somebody else is probably carrying your other stuff. A P.A. (= personal assistance)? Yes, you are probably a star and it shows because you only need to wear a clutch.

Clutches are designed to focus on your middle-waist, your hands and the clutch itself. They are mostly small jewels, carrying under your arms or with both hands. Wearing them with both hands also indicates, you are not going to shake hands. That's looks very upper-class, and nowadays (2020) also very Corona-safe.

Nowadays clutches are also more handy than ever; you can wear a face-mask in it and be prepared if it is necessary to wear a face-mask for your own safety or somebody else safety.

Modern clutches are not jewels anymore, and not only exclusively made for the rich and famous. Clutch bags are mainstream and sometimes even very sustainable because they are made of fabric leftovers. Or recycled plastics, paper or environmentally friendly materials.
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Chanel clutch bags:
Chanel has been making clutch bags for some time. Often these are very similar to the famous bag the 2.55. But with fewer compartments, lighter weight, even more handy and with or without a chain. Some larger wallets are also called clutch bags because they can easily pass for a graceful evening bag.
The real authentic vintage Clutch bags are worth gold and very beautiful. These are often more 'jewels' than bags.

The leather variant is no longer alone. The clutch is also increasingly made in tweed fabrics and even in plastic and other futuristic fabrics. Characteristic: the perfect finish, the symbols and the logo. And the hefty price for an authentic or vintage Chanel Clutch bag.

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How to make a clutch bag?
It is not that difficult to make a perfect clutch bag. Certainly not for an 'advanced' seamstress, but it is also fine for a beginner seamstress. If you only work step-by-step, take the time for it and ensure a nice finish. Take a good look at google and tutorials and even better: an example of a clutch nearby in sight, to study and copy.

Which materials do you need?
The outside fabric: a nice tweed, Bouclé or something more easy to sew: goblin or another sturdy fabric. The lining: go for a real silk fabric, taffeta silk or a fabric that folds nicely and is not too flexible. Inner lining: flannel fabric or thinly padded fleece liner. In addition, you need a larger press stud, a metal closure or a decoration.

Let's start!
  • Cut out the fabrics according to the dimensions: 64 x 29.5 cm.
  • Quilt the outer fabric on the flannel or the quilted fleece line in a check pattern or stripes.
  • Make inner pockets, a label and possibly even more pockets in the lining fabric.
  • Attach a flap of the outer fabric and the inner fabric to each other and secure this flap to the outer fabric.
  • Now sew the outside fabric and the fabric lining, each on the sides.
  • Sew the outer fabric and lining together but leave a small opening to allow the fabric to be turned.
  • Finally sew the small opening neatly by hand again Iron or crush the bag in a nice flat shape.
  • Fold the bag in half and fasten the snap button on the flap and on the underside, in the middle of the outer fabric.
  • Finally: finish the bag nicely: put all the loose threads back with a needle in the fabric, push the corners well out and gently iron the bag into shape.
Summarized:
Do you have a nice piece of gobelin, Bouclé, tweed or jacquard fabric? And a silk lining or regular lining fabric? Make a nice clutch to give away during the holidays or make one for yourself. A clutch is always chic, handy and you really can't have enough clutches...
If you also make them from  fabric leftovers, or 'upcycling' a curtain, jacket or tablecloth; then you are completely good and creative!

Do you need more instructions or do you want to make one out of leather? Then this book is recommended. We will come back later with a book review.

'Sense and Sensibility: Romantic Blouse'

21/11/2020

 

Holiday series with creative suggestions,
sewing patterns and fabrics

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The holidays will be different from 'life as we know it' this year. City trips to the big cities for Christmas shopping, going on a skiing holiday or large dinners with family and friends, these are all impossible because of the corona-crisis....

But people are creative and so we are going to celebrate it differently. But how? We have found some nice suggestions and ideas, beautiful sewing patterns (achievable in terms of deadline!) and above all: beautiful (affordable) fabrics!


Sense and Sensibility: a romantic blouse
We came across a beautiful blouse from Sense and Sensibility sewing patterns on the website of the online sewing pattern shop. This blouse is striking and beautiful and has three advantages that we would like to mention.

Three benefits!


1. The blouse falls under the category: Historical clothing and is therefore suitable for L.A.R.P. (= Life Action Role Play) and Cosplay. It is a Victorian blouse that is actually a kind of basic garment. You can wear it with vests, but also corsets, coats, capes and dresses. The blouse is an eye-catcher but also a great basic garment.

2. The blouse is quite easy to make. The sewing pattern is clear and has no pitfalls or really difficult things that require a lot of sewing experience. It looks like a difficult-to-create blouse because of all the ruffles attached to it, but the basic pattern is quite 'basic'. You can also create a lot of extras with it.
For example, tailoring even more by adding more pleats and darts, or making it even more 'Victorian' by working with many ruffles and lace.

3. The blouse is timeless and is very comfortable to wear. Ideal for holidays-series. This blouse seems very 'dressed' but is really just a blouse that fits and wears comfortably. The holidays 2020 will, in most cases, be celebrated at home in a limited social circle. Wear a nice blouse, a skirt or jeans underneath and you will look festive without too much fuss!

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Which fabric and color do you choose?
These fabrics are recommended for the sewing pattern: cotton, pima cotton, linen, voile, organic cotton, batiste, silk, and all other lightweight to medium weight fabrics.

DO NOT use stretchy or elastic fabrics.  For the ruffles and other decorations you can choose: lace, bias band, decorative band, band with dots, fringes or embroidered trims.

Our fabric choice: a 'chain' viscose fabric with a nice and supple drape. Supple fabrics will look better and wear more comfortable. But you can also choose a stiffer fabric, the blouse will have more volume and appear more grotesque. This fits nicely with the new trend: The bubble.

Consider Taffeta silk or a poplin cotton. Do you really want to make something chic out of the blouse: choose silk or a special print. Create super chic cuffs in a contrasting color or let the special buttons be the eye-catchers.

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Sewing and cutting:
Sense and Sensibility is a brand of fine, special patterns. The sewing pattern comes in a large sturdy paper envelope and the sewing pattern is drawn on sturdy white paper. So you just have to cut it out.

The instructions are very clear and nicely handwritten.

The only comment we have: the sleeves are short and the cuffs are quite tight. Adjust this yourself if you want the sleeves longer and if you want the cuffs to be slightly wider.

Also make sure that the seam allowances is 5/8 ". This is, quite untraceable, in the text on the cover of the sewing pattern.

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Summarized:
'Sense and Sensibility: a romantic blouse' is a sewing pattern that you can use for many purposes. From an L.A.R.P. (= Life Action Roleplay) event to a blouse for daily use. Or a special blouse for the holidays.

The blouse is timeless and you can make it whatever you want. The blouse is also completely the new trend when it comes to shape and comfort (in Corona stay-at-home times).

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A long Chanel-style jacket or a coat?

16/11/2020

 
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A short jacket, a half-long jacket or a really very long jacket. You might think turning a short jacket into a long jacket is not thát difficult. Extend the fabric and you have the same jacket but then longer. But it is a bigger deal...

Long coat = other function
A long jacket has a completely different function. Long coats are usually meant to be worn over clothing to go outside. Hey, hey, doesn't everyone know that? That's right, but sometimes ugly mistakes are made in the sewing world. More spacious and wider Jackets are often underestimated in terms of sewing techniques. Sewing patterns are taken a little less seriously when it comes to long coats. Many seamstresses who have often made a long jacket, know that sewing a long jacket is just as meticulous work as making a short jacket. And that making a long jacket is not that simple at all. How often did we experience a long jacket is 'just not right'? Sadly, too many times.

A coat or a long jacket?
A coat always refers to an outer jacket. Usually it is a long classic model made of wool, loden or tweed. An outdoor jacket is more like a sporty (long) jacket made of waterproof fabrics, or a quilted jacket with a hood. In the sewing world, people talk about coats or simply: jackets. The shorter (Chanel style) jackets are often categorized with blazers or 'jackets'. Often it is confusing but follow the golden rule that coats are the outer coats and 'jackets' often the inner jackets.

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How to sew longer coats or jackets?
Sometimes we notice that our project turned out to be a failure: the lining is incorrect, the shoulders are too wide and the jacket only fits well with a very thin t-shirt underneath. But unfortunately that was not the intention. Did we forgot about the instructions on the sewing pattern? Or are the fabrics just not suitable? We would like to point out that making a long jacket requires just as much love, knowledge and experience as making a short jacket. Maybe even more, because after all, you work with a lot of fabrics and materials.

A longer jacket in Chanel style? Is that possible? Yes indeed. A long bouclé or tweed jacket with a quilted lining is heavenly and you really want to wear it all year round. So nice and warm, so comfortable! It is quite a job but the reuslt will be: a piece of pure Haute couture.

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Sewing patterns
If you want to make a longer Chanel-Style jacket, make sure you search for 'jackets'. Not on 'coats' or 'outdoor jackets'. If you really want to make a coat out of Tweed fabric or Bouclé to wear outside and over your clothes, look for 'cloaks' or 'coats'.

Please note: a nice long coat made of those fabrics is quite fragile and not durable. If you get caught on a splinter, a door handle or something else, the threads will easily tear out. A wolen coat is just as chic, slightly less 'Chanel-style' but stronger. Although this fabric is certainly not durable. And for all chic coatsmake sure to have an umbrella because the fabrics do not like rain and wind.

Suitable patterns for longer Chanel-style jackets:
  • Vogue V7860
  • Burda 6248
  • Vogue V9247
  • Vogue 1717 (review to follow in Dec 2020)
  • Knipmode 1120-10 (review will follow in Dec 2020)

Beautiful long classic coats that are suitable for Tweeds, Bouclé or Loden:
  • Burda 6462 and 6385
  • Butterick 6720 and 6385
  • Vogue V 1562
  • Simplicity 9187
  • NewLook 6585
  • McCalls 8013
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Tips & Tricks:
  • Follow the sewing pattern just as closely as with a shorter jacket.
  • Determine in advance which length suits you best: just over your knees, calf length or a really long coat.
  • Also set the goal: a longer jacket is not useful if you have to drive or travel. A three-quarter jacket often offers more freedom of movement and convenience.
  • Hemming: this is an accurate work. The liner should not pull or hang out from under it. If necessary, watch videos on Youtube to learn it extra well.
  • Buy extra fabric: this is useful in case you decide to have large pockets on the jacket or an extra belt.
  • Choose a lining with a print or a contrasting color. This often gives a couture look.
  • The lining often determines whether a jacket is comfortable to wear or not: do not see the release of lining fabric as a final item, but as just as important as the outer fabric
  • Always hang a jacket on a clothes hanger and not on the loop. This keeps the jacket in better shape. How do you teach yourself this discipline? Simply by not sewing a loop in it: P

Additional options for advanced seamstresses:
If you want to make a longer jacket in 'Chanel-Style', consider quilting the lining on the outer fabric. Follow Claure Shaeffer's instructions from her book: 'The couture cardigan jacket' and you have a beautiful long Chanel jacket that wears and looks heavenly. It may be a lot of work but well worth it. Especially if you choose a Bouclé fabric that is very light or loose-fitting, sewing the lining to it is a good idea. It gives the jacket more strength and shape.

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In summary:
A longer Chanel-style jacket is completely different from a jacket in Bouclé or tweeds, see photo above. Both are chic, beautiful, timeless but take a little more time to make.

Read carefully which recommended fabrics are on the sewing patterns. Choose the fabric ánd lining carefully, it will be the difference between a great result or a failed project.

The ultimate chic 'upcycling' gift!

14/11/2020

 

Holiday series with creative suggestions,
sewing patterns and fabrics

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For the upcoming holidays, which will be different this year, we have worked out some beautiful sewing patterns for suitable and affordable clothing. So far: Vogue 1605 and Vogue 1520.

In this blog an idea to make a chic gift as an ultimate upcycling project: The idea to give neckties a new life. Ties are not popular anymore. Do you, or your friend, husband, son or neighbor, have a bunch of ties in the closet which are 'working' anymore? Ask if you can use them and turn them into a nice laptop sleeve!

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Ties - downgrades or no longer needed
In general, ties are worn less and less since a few years. Dress codes or unwritten rules have declined considerably in the business world. Hierarchy is no longer determined by how you look (according to the rules) but what you radiate (your own personality).

In Germany, for example, the 'Krawattenpflicht' has not been present for a while at companies such as Aldi and Sparkasse. More and more companies are following.
People have always been much less strict in the Netherlands than in Germany. Watch a debate in the House of Parlemennt and you will notice that even in politics are no longer wearing ties. In the business world the tie is slowly disappearing.

Ties are still 'mandatory' during job interviews, official occasions and in certain professions (lawyers, notaries).

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Upcycling of ties
The idea of upcycling ties is not so popular, because ties are not containing much fabric and the shape is awkward. Yet there are beautiful things you can make of them! And you are completely lucky if the ties are made of beautiful silk fabrics. Find a few beautiful color combinations together, and let's get really creative!

Do you not have any ties at all, but does the laptop sleeve appeal to you? Take a look at a thrift store. Sometimes you can find the most beautiful ties for a few pennies. You certainly don't need more than five.

What more do you need: not much. Preferably felt fabric, but another thick, soft fabric lining is also possible. Do you have a thick, slightly stiff blanket left? Then you can use it as a lining. Or a thick terrycloth towel, a piece of cloth from a duvet, sleeping bag or old cardigan. Important: the fabric must be a little stiff, thick and sewable (your sewing machine must be able to handle the thickness of the fabric).

In addition, a press stud and a beautiful (preferably silk) fabric for the lining.

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Step-by-step

  1. Open the ties with a seam ripper, remove all tags and carefully remove the lining.
  2. Iron the fabric long and intensively (not too hot!), It will be difficult to iron out the shape.
  3. If necessary, gently wash the fabric if necessary
  4. Cut squares  of the wide part of the tie, or other shapes that you like.
  5. Keep the narrow end of the most beautiful tie for closure.
  6. Sew the squares together and determine the shape of the laptop bag by taking the measurements (plus 5 cm) of the laptop for which you will be making the cover.
  7. Sew the front (right sides together) with the closure already on, the inside and the lining together, leaving a small area open (in a side seam of the lining) so you can turn the entire cover over to the right side.
  8. Now only the finishing with a beautiful border, sew the small opening closed by hand and attach the press stud.
  9. Iron out the wrinkles and check whether the laptop can easily be placed in it but is properly enclosed.
  10. Ultimate finish: a nice label on the back of the laptop sleeve or pack it with a nice card or 'handmade with love' sticker / label on it.

This is an 'easy peasy' project for the seamstress with average sewing experience. For a novice seamstress it may be useful to practice first with an old piece of fabric.

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Summarized:
We are creative and we love beautiful (silk!) ties for an upcycling project. Give them a second life and make somebody happy with a nice Christmas gift.

Make sure you choose nice color combinations, smooth fabric (ties or satin, silk, or shiny fabric).

A beautiful gift does not have to be expensive and upcycling fabrics is a creative and sustainable idea. Do you have any more ideas? We would like to hear from you!

Vogue V1520, a chic, affordable evening dress

10/11/2020

 

Holiday series with creative suggestions,
sewing patterns and fabrics

In Dutch
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The holidays will be different from 'life as we know it' this year. City trips to the big cities for Christmas shopping, going on a skiing holiday or large dinners with family and friends, these are all impossible because of the corona-crisis.... But people are creative and so we are going to celebrate it differently. But how? We have found some nice suggestions and ideas, beautiful sewing patterns (achievable in terms of deadline!) and above all: beautiful (affordable) fabrics!

Vogue 1520: a chic evening dress
Vogue V1520 from designer Badgley Mischka, is a beautiful evening dress. Badgley Mischka is a designer who makes beautiful gala, bridal and occasion wear. This design fits perfectly in his amazing collection of beautiful evening wear.

It's an elegant dress that has a few big advantages. Three benefits!

First, the dress makes you look longer and slimmer. This is because pleats have been processed from the breasts to below the waist. So you can hide your belly by covering with the pleats. Maybe useful to wear an extra shape-wear shirt underneath, but you don't have to. Your own 'rolls' are less noticeable because of the rolls/pleats of the fabric.

Second, the dress can be made from afforable fabrics. If you choose stretch velvet or velvet de panne, the dress will be beautiful but cheap.  These fabrics are not in the expensive price range. Most stretch velvet fabrics are ten euros per meter, or even less.

Third, the dress is timeless. If you wear this dress  later for a festive occasion, the dress will really not be old-fashioned. It has no fashionable elements and it is just what you wear in terms of jewelry, shoes, bag or hairstyle. The dress is a timeless classic.

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Suggestic fabrics and colors
These fabrics are recommended on the sewing pattern envelope: Stretch Velvet, Sequin Mesh, Rayon Spandex. And the lining: Tricot. With 'sequin mesh' is meant stretch sequin fabric and 'Tricot' for the lining is a  short description of: tricot charmeuse lining.

It is important that the fabrics can stretch well in both length and width. A line with an extension is often indicated on the side of a sewing pattern envelope. This refers to the extent to which the fabric must be stretchable. The fabric should be able to stretch 10 cm. to 15 cm. As long as you choose Stretch velvet or velvet de panne, you don't have to double check this. These fabrics are known for their stretch skills.

We have found fabrics for you with budget fabrics:

1.
Velvet-velours blue

2.
Velvet-velours with flower design

3.and as lining fabric:
Tricotlining petrol blue

We chose blue shades because they look great on festive occasions and these blue tones always match nicely with skin tone and hair color. And also with gold and silver. Blue fabrics can be combined endlessly and are less obvious than the traditional colors for the holidays such as red, green, gold and black.

Another favorite of ours:
lycra velours soft ocher

The color Ocher yellow is a new trend. Ocher yellow is a warm, soft color, back to basics and goes very well with gold and warm colors. The Vogue V1520 in ocher yellow colors will be a very nice choice for New Year's Eve! You will stand out, even if it is by a digital connection with friends.

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Sewing and cutting:
You have to pay attention when you are going to cut the fabric. Do not fold the fabric double, but put it in its total width on a table or on the floor. The front piece needs plenty of room just because it is cut in a wide arc, because of the wrinkles. Take a good look at how often you need to cut the fabric. Most sewing pattern parts do not have to be cut twice, only once, even the back panels. A different cutting schedule applies to the lining. Make sure you have cut enough fabric because the pattern does contain a lot of fabric. Stretch velvet or velor panne is not easy to cut. The fabric slips quickly. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric with extra pins and use weights in the middle of the pieces.

The same for sewing: use lots of pins. This prevents a lot of frustration. Make sure you use a stretch needle and a special foot for smooth fabrics.

There are no pitfalls or difficulties mentioned. With a little sewing experience you can do the job, as long as you take the time to work with the  highly stretchy fabric.
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Summarized:
We have chosen this sewing pattern because it is a dress that you can make fairly easily, the fabrics are not expensive and especially because the dress has a beautiful festive look.

The dress is also timeless, so you can wear the dress on several occasions, also in the coming years, when (hopefully) it is possible to celebrate the holidays with more friends and family.

More suggestions for the 'alternative' holidays will follow.

More information:

Dressing up or dressing down?

Vogue V8893; a cosy and chic cardigan

8/11/2020

 
In Dutch
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Vogue V8893 is a Claire Shaeffer design published by Vogue. We know Claire Shaeffer from the books: Couture Cardigan Jacket, Making Designers Trims and The Couture Skirt. She describes in her books how Coco Chanel designed her famous Chanel jacket, the faux wrap skirt and other classics. The sewing pattern V8893 is a cardigan as it was often created and worn by Coco Chanel herself.

In the spotlights; Vogue V8893,  because it is actually a combination of a beautiful classic jacket, but can be worn just as nicely as homewear. This is the type of jacket/vest that will soon be your favorite item of clothing. Nice and warm, comfortable and 'dressed' enough. Do you to appear on Skype or Zoom? The neckline of this cardigan is an eye-catcher: pure simplicity, pure couture.

Vogue V8893
The Vogue sewing pattern is a loose jacket (vest) sewing pattern, the neck, front and pockets are hemmed with a band and the sleeves consist of three parts. The jacket is intended for the fabrics: Light-weight tweed, wool crepe, jersey. Notions: buttons and a metal chain.

Sewing level: average
The sewing pattern has been titled "Vogue AVERAGE". We disagree with this. Claire Shaeffer gives fantastic detailed instructions, but you have to have more sewing experience to understand them. Especially the neck with the bands, is a difficult job for which you need sewing experience.

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We have made the jacket from jeans blue knitted fabric. The fabric is nice and warm and gives more of a 'vest look' than a 'jacket look'. We did the edging by band slightly differently. We made this from the same fabric, but later put an extra tres band around it. This to add a little more color to the cardigan and, to be honest, we made a mistake ...

As mentioned, this cardigan seems easy to create, but it is certainly not. It is couture and a real Chanel classic. The inside is also just as beautifully finished as the outside. Completely in the spirit of Coco Chanel. Claire Shaeffer's instructions should help you figure it out as an average seamstress, but don't underestimate it. In addition, knits and lightweight tweeds are not always easy to work with. They quickly fall apart or fray when you cut them.

Pros:
  • The sewing pattern is timeless and completely in the spirit of Coco Chanel by Claire Schaeffer
  • The jacket / cardigan is real Haute couture
  • The jacket / cardigan is very comfortable
  • Claire Shaeffer's instructions are comprehensive and clear

Cons:
  • The jacket is unlined. However, the sewing pattern's envelope reads: 'Lining: charmeuse, georgette'. This is confusing.
  • The sleeves consist of three parts, which is much more of a job for an experienced seamstress
  • Pay close attention to the size: the vest is very large.

Possible adjustments:
You can adjust the sewing pattern yourself by, for example: lining it, making the sleeves in two parts instead of three parts and if you want the cardigan even more comfortable: opt for French terry or thicker sweat fabric.
You could also make the bands in different colors.

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In summary:
Vogue V8893 is a special sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style cardigan according to the vision of Coco Chanel and explained by Claire Shaeffer. (in the instructions for this pattern and in all of her books). The instructions are very comprehensive and clear.

But the jacket/cardigan remains a challenge for every seamstress. Keep this in mind if you don't have much experience with 'couture sewing techniques' yet.

This jacket is both a cardigan and a jacket and can be very casual/comfortable, but also pure couture and classic simplicity. It depends a bit on which fabric and how you finish it.

One thing is certain: it is great!

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Read more:
Chanel Cardigan or Jacket ?
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