Vogue V7860 is an old sewing pattern which almost looks like a vintage sewing pattern. But it is not a vintage sewing pattern at all. It is a great sewing pattern for making a classic Chanel jacket and easier than the same type of sewing pattern: Vogue 9095.
Vogue V7860 is a beautiful classic sewing pattern for a Chanel-style jacket with bands. The recommended fabrics are: Lightweight Tweeds, Lightweight Gabardine and Silk/Linen Blend. The sewing pattern also offers pants in two different lengths and a skirt. You can also make this sewing pattern in Bouclé fabrics, with bands made of the same fabric as the lining.
Coco Chanel often enjoyed this: use the silk lining on the outside of the jacket or make a blouse to wear underneath.
Vogue V7860 is an average sewing level pattern. We expect you can handle this with a little sewing experience. It is not a difficult sewing pattern and the bands around it are easy to make. The skirt and pants do not give any sewing problems either.
Our Chanel-style jacket:
We made the jacket from a Bouclé fabric and put a dark blue band around it. This in combination with a light green lining. We quilted the lining on the outside and deviated from the sewing pattern in that sense.
Read all about quilting liners to make an authentic Chanel style jacket: The Couture Cardigan Jacket by Claire Shaeffer.
Vogue V9095, like Vogue V7975, seems a bit outdated because of the frontpage of the sewing pattern. The drawings are drawn in a style that no longer fits today. Nevertheless, we would like to point out this fine pattern that is very suitable for making a Chanel-Style jacket. The pattern is an excellent base to make a Chanel-Style jacket that is super cute.
The vogue pattern is a lined jacket pattern in three different variations. The jacket is enclosed by bands and has princess lines. The sewing pattern is available in two different sizes. Make sure you order the right one!
The pattern is labeled "Vogue EASY". However, we believe that it takes experience to get the bands right. (and the welt-pockets!) The instructions are clear, but it remains a challenge. Just ask an experienced seamstress for help, then it is certainly fun to work with this sewing pattern.
The fabrics that are recommended to use are: Garbadine, Crepe, Shantung. And for the contrasting bands: Lace, Eyelets, Novelty sheers.
We have made the jacket in a wool fabric. This was pleasant work and easy to do. Note, however, that diagonal lines or checkered patterns are rarely advised. This is mainly because it is a huge job to get the 'pattern' exactly so that the lines of the front pieces merge. However, by placing the contrasting bands in a different angle, it is not noticeable that it does not fit 100% in terms of lines.
Either way, choosing a plain fabric is a lot easier.
Vogue V9095 is an ideal sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket. The pattern is based on the 'boxy-like' original Chanel jacket with bands. The lining also offers the opportunity to really make it into a Haute Couture jacket that is perfectly finished both on the inside and on the outside.
The Chanel-Style jacket is very cute. And in terms of styling you can go in all directions: from super modern to timeless or vintage.
Vogue V7860 and Vogue V9095 are fun sewing patterns to make a Chanel-Style jacket with bands. Vogue V7860 is easier than Vogue V9095 eventhough Vogue claims exactly the opposite.
Vogue V9095 has sleeves that consist of two parts and V7860 has one pattern part sleeves. Most importantly, the band around it is a lot more wrapped around the sewing pattern V9095 because there is no interruption in the band Model B and diagonally interrupted for Model A. This requires the necessary experience and insight. With the sewing pattern V7860, the bands are easier to make because you do it per pattern piece.
Vogue V9095 has a little more waist because the princess lines continue. Vogue V7860 also has princess lines, but only halfway under the bag. Wee prefer Vogue V9095, which is also more readily available via the Internet. You can also keep an eye on sewing patterns.
Truly Victorian TV494 Shirtwaists (1894) is a sewing pattern for a blouse with large puff sleeves as worn in the period: Bell Epoque 1890-1900. The sewing pattern is published by 'Truly Victorian', a sewing pattern designer who mainly focuses on Victorian style clothing.
Truly Victorian TV 494
The sewing pattern is a multi-size sewing pattern; you can make it in sizes A to N. These letters represent the size of the chest and waist. The sewing pattern does not come in the envelope as with the well-known other brands, but is issued in A-4 format and is packed in a plastic sleeve. It contains the large radar sheet in all sizes and an explanation and introduction published on four A-4 papers.
A shirtwaist is actually nothing more than a blouse. Shirtwaists used to be worn mainly in the summer, had no bones and were unlined. They were made from light, soft cotton. Shirtwaists were worn in the skirt or over the skirt and were both chic and everyday (work) clothing.
The sewing pattern does not mention any advice regarding the sewing level you need to make this blouse. We think that a beginner will succeed, with maybe a little bit of help in case the sleeves and making buttonholes are too difficult. It is not a difficult design to make.
The fabric recommendation is hard to find on the sewing pattern, but in the end we find it on the first page at the very bottom.
Suggested fabrics: "Lawn, batiste, muslin, silk, seersucker, or other light weight fabrics."
Notions: you only need buttons and half a meter of mesh or interfacing for the inner top of the puff sleeves. It is strongly advised to first make the blouse as a sample, for example from muslin. The fabric is not stretchy, therefore it is important to pick the right size to make sure the blouse fits nicely.
We think Truly Victorian TV494 Shirtwaist is a nice sewing pattern and we enjoyed making the blouse. The blouse is ideal for Cosplay, LARP or Fantasy. But also to learn how to make puff sleeves and make clothes festive or 'upcycle' a blouse.
The sewing pattern provides great explanation and is not difficult to make.
Some sewing patterns are 'styled' in such a way that the sewing patterns are suitable for regular jackets and typical 'Chanel-style' jacket. But some sewing patterns are clearly: wow, a real Chanel jacket! We are talking about V1717 from Vogue! This is a sewing pattern for a jacket, a longer jacket, trousers and a wrap skirt. And all in the perfect Chanel-style!
Vogue V1717 is published by Vogue and no special deisgner is mentioned on it, as it is usually the case. The front page shows a complete outfit with one jacket in two different variations (in lengths), pants and a skirt. These are all made of Houndstooth tweed fabric. The outfit has a typical Chanellook with many Chanel details. We love it!
The sewing level indicated is: medium. We agree. The sewing pattern is not terribly difficult, but an absolute beginner could use some extra text and explanation. It requires no special couture technical skills. The only tricky part: making buttonholes in thick tweed fabric and the zipper and pockets in the pants.
The recommended fabrics are: wool, wool mixes and for the pants: wool crepe, garbadine or twill. We used a Bouclé fabric for the jacket. This can be done but is not easy in terms of buttonholes and collar. Tip: use large sturdy buttons and (if you can) make bounded buttonholes. This is quite an extra job but it will give a much better (couture-)results!
If possible: try to make some waist/shape in the jackets. This takes away the 'boxy' shape, as the Chanel jacket was once made, but will still look better.
Choose good lining material so that the jackets are comfortable to wear. You may also choose to use lining for the pants so that they will not itch.
More on this: A closer look at lining fabrics!
Vogue V1717 is a sewing pattern for a great outfit in real Chanellook. The garments are fairly easy to sew. We do recommend going for bounded buttonholes, or buttons for decoration and with push buttons at the back.
We would also like to point out the choice of lining fabrics: choose a fine fabric (silk or cupro silk) so that the entire outfit is comfortable to wear.
At this time of the year it is always nice to have those comfortable jackets or cardigans you can quickly put on. Just in case you have to go out of the door. Or in case you need an extra layer in the house. We have made a stylish coat that is slightly different from a bathrobe, but is not a real coat either.
Bathrobe or real coat?
You could walk around all day in a bathrobe. Especially if it is made of lovely soft terry cloth, like our bathrobes in this blog of the sewing pattern Simplicity 1562. This sewing pattern is for a bathrobe. But the pattern is just as useful for a bathrobe with more of the look of a regular coat. The only difference is that there is no lining, pockets, inner pockets, zippers, buttons etc. Nevertheless, it is an ideal sewing pattern for a nice jacket that is very comfortable. Bet this will be a favorite piece of your wardrobe or a CLASSIC!
For this inner and/or outer jacket we were inspired by the many coats we saw on catwalks for the autumn and winter season. Coats were mainly worn as an extra layer and as a wrap. Wide, long coats for a complete outfit. In terms of style: big collars, shawl collars and often in a simple, classic shape. Wide, comfortable and quite casual. Jackets to 'live' in both indoors or outdoors.
The Pied-de-poule or Houndstooth design is also very fashionable this year and a timeless classic anyway. But we looked more at checkered designs because Pied-de-poule is a design that you have to love. Most people quickly find it too busy or a bit old-fashioned.
Comfort and class
This coat is therefore a combination of a bathrobe in a warm woolen fabric. The color is easy. Black and white is always good and stylish. This fabric is for sale at Budgetstoffen and cheap. With two meters of fabric you have enough fabric to make the coat.
Because the fabric is quite stiff, you don't need interlining or reinforcement. The shawl collar makes the jacket very pleasant to wear and is ideal to wear over other clothes. Whether you wear a shirt, a sweater with a roll collar or a bare neck, a shawl collar is always a good idea. The jacket closes with a simple belt. You can also wear the jacket open, but the wrap over makes the jacket nice and warm and pleasant. A lot of 'homewear' is loose hanging and the front panels often do not close. This is easy but not warm or comfortable like this jacket is.
Sewing pattern Simplicity 1562:
In terms of sizes you can clearly choose between children and adults and then also in sizes XS to XL. We recommend to take a large size so that the jacket is nice and spacious.
Simplicity 1562: Sewing level
The sewing pattern is easy to make. It is an 'Easy' sewing pattern and you can rest assured that even a total beginner can handle it. The fabric sews easily because it is not too thick, but certainly not too thin. We do recommend finishing the seams with a lock machine or a zigzag stitch. The fabric is unfortunately too thick for a French seam.
Do you want to make a nice jacket for indoors and outdoors? Then consider the Simplicity 1562 sewing pattern for a bathrobe. This sounds strange, but it is certainly not. You can make exactly the coat you want from beautiful woolen fabric.
Not really a coat, not even a bathrobe or a cardigan, but a wonderfully comfortable 'coat' for the winter. A jacket that is stylish enough for walking outside, but comfortable and handy enough to wear indoors instead of a bathrobe or hoody.
The jacket is easy to make and with the beautiful wool fabric from Budget fabrics you are also affordable.
Is this day your day-off and would you like to make something for a loved one, friend or family? We have an idea for you that you could basically make within a few hours. And of course the present will be what we stand for: chic, timeless and a bit of Chanel style!
Marfy Fashion Studio
We received an email from Marfy Fashion Studio because we are subscribed to the newsletter. This email came out well because a free sewing pattern from Marfy is always great. In this case it is about a sewing pattern for a stola. A stola which you can create very quickly and which is easy to make.
Marfy sewing patterns are usually not suitable for beginners. This is because there are no instructions included and the sewing patterns are always pre-cut. As a seamstress you need to have experience and sewing skills to understanding about the construction. The only clue you will get are numbers on the sewing pattern parts and the overall picture.
Read about this: the difference between sewing patterns from various brands. However, this sewing pattern is easy and suitable for beginners as well.
Sewing Pattern 6817
The Marfy download link:
Good luck !
And happy holidays!
The holidays are coming up and we have another idea for you. How about making a lovely bathrobe for your partner, child, girlfriend, grandmother, grandfather, nephew, friend, acquaintance or colleague? It is an easy job, affordable and fun!
Benefits of having a bathrobe
A bathrobe is an indispensable item in everyone's wardrobe. A bathrobe is made of (heavier) terry cloth or velour and often has a thick shawl collar or cowl (hoody). This gives an extra warm feeling and that is nice if you just got out of the bath, the shower or if you are still enjoying your morning-feeling. Most people have a just one bathrobe until it is too old or worn out. But a 'new' one is often low on the priority list. Therefore, a bathrobe specially-made-by-you will be a great surprise and very welcome!
We chose the Simplicity sewing pattern because it offers everything we need for this sewing project, or feel free to call it sewing projects. The sewing pattern offers bathrobes for the whole family, from young to old and in many sizes. You will never go wrong with this sewing pattern. More on sizing later.
We also thought the design was important. This bathrobe offers a nice shawl collar and no cowl. This saves money in terms of fabric, but also in the fact that not everyone can appreciate a cowl.
The sewing pattern also has an excellent shape. It's elegant and not over-sized or bulky.
Our bathrobe in the pictures above is made in 'Chanel-style'. We deliberately opted for the colors black and champagne. We also added off-white lace to the pockets and sleeves. A large logo on the back is also possible, but of course we do not want to suggest that this is a real 'Chanel' bathrobe. Still, it is nice to add your own variation on a logo to give the bathrobe even more 'brand' appearance.
In terms of sizes you can clearly choose between children and adults and then also in sizes XS to XL. If your gift really is a surprise and you have to estimate the sizes, that's no problem. A bathrobe can be a bit over-sized anyway and you can always turn up the sleeves. Don't hesitate too long: estimating the size of the person will not be difficult. You can also adjust the length of the bathrobe 'by feeling'.
If the gift has been received and the bathrobe is hanging on the floor or the sleeves are really too long: you can always offer to adjust this. And in case of too short: you can always sew an extra strip of fabric on it.
The sewing pattern is easy to make, even a total beginner can handle it. Terrycloth 'crumbles' a lot, but is in principle easy to sew.
Terry cloth de luxe!
Budgetstoffen.nl has wonderful terry fabrics. The colors are beautiful and many colors are offered. We especially like the champagne and the steel blue! It is advisable to wash the terry cloth beforehand. The terry cloth will be even softer and you know for sure that the shrinkage is gone. If you do not want to do this, advise the recipient of your gift to wash the bathrobe with cold or handwarmth water for the first time. Budget fabrics terry cloth is cheap and OEKO-TEX certified. Great quality!
Simplicity 1562 is a very easy sewing pattern. A bathrobe can always be easily made for someone else because the sizes are quite easy to estimate and this sewing pattern offers almost all sizes.
Personalize the bathrobe by adding a beautiful label, by playing with color and by giving it with a card or (digital) hug. This sewing project is achievable for everyone, affordable and will be appreciated by everyone.
'The Maker's Atelier, The Essential Collection: Sewing with Style' is an English book by Frances Tobin. The book is a large book (two pounds) of 21 x 15 cm and contains beautiful stylish photos and clear texts. Half of the book is an envelope containing eight sewing patterns (on a radar sheet). The book closes with a magnetic strip.
The maker's atelier
The subtitle: 'Sewing with Style' is a perfect title in our opinion. The book clearly focuses on the woman who likes the minimalist and stylish style. The sewing patterns are easy and manageable for beginners. Even the colors of the pictures (of the clothes) are matching: everything fits together perfectly. The colors are mainly earth tones, brown, dark blue, burgundy, gold and many warm shades of beige. Stylish, warm colors that suits middle-aged women very well. Whether you already have gray hair or whether it is still blonde or brown; these colors are always flattering.
Fair sewing patterns, fair shapes
This book is not only aimed at women of all ages, but also women of all shapes. From size S to XL, these clothes will look great. There are plenty of women who don't like shopping or women who rarely find what they are looking for: stylish but comfortable clothes. This book is a great reason to start sewing.
Most of the patterns are timeless and classic, such as the pencil skirt, the cigarette pants, the coat and the blouses.
Required sewing level
The sewing patterns are suitable for beginners. The instructions are loud and clear and supported by simple drawings. The sequence is also clear, step-by-step and no steps upfront. The radar sheets are easy to understand and ideal for beginners. This book will be a nice step to get used to pattern pieces and to get a feel for how to handle sewing patterns.
The author of the book recommends fabrics for each pattern and alternatives (from simple garbadine to metallic leather look). If you know the sewing patterns, you can vary endlessly with fabric and try more 'advanced options'.
In addition, you can endlessly vary the items of clothing yourself. The blouse fits both the pencil skirt and the cigarette pants and the coat is matching with all the clothes. In fact, these eight sewing patterns are the basis for an entire wardrobe. The bag is especially nice. This is called 'book' bag because it is big enough for groceries or a stack of books.
A nice tip for the holidays: Make a 'book' bag for a family member, friend or girlfriend. Such a bag is always great and if you create it with suede or a leather look fabric, it will be a big hit!
Check, check, double check
We made the pencil skirt and the cigarette pants. A leather look bag is still in process :>)
The pencil skirt is a great comfortable skirt as home wear (nice and casual in jersey with elastic band) but you can also make it more representable with a zipper, waistband and luxurious fabrics. The length is just right. Not fussy or stiff, but feminine and modern.
The cigarette pants are ideal as a basic garment as well. It looks a lot better than leggings or jogging pants and especially for the summer pants. The cigarette pants can of course also be sutable for the winter. Buy a thicker fabric and lengthen the pants. How simple can it be?
Quilted ór 'stepped' fabrics are always very 'Chanel-like'. This is mainly because Coco Chanel liked to work with 'stepped' fabrics. The fabrics are also a bit the same style as the beautiful 'stepped' classic Chanel 2.55 bag. That is why we went looking for a sewing pattern for a 'stepped' jacket!
Neue Mode Stil M23079
Neue Mode Stil M23079 is an older sewing pattern of a fitted jacket, lined and finished with a contrast band and patch pockets. The jacket has one variation in collar (with or without collar) and one variation in pockets (with or without pockets).
Sewing level: Easy
If sewing level is specified: suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree with this. The jacket is not difficult to make and does not require any special sewing techniques. It is very nice to work with the fabric.
The recommended fabrics are: lightweight quilted fabrics or quilted fabrics. These fabrics are generally not that easy to find. At some online fabric stores they are categorized as: 'lining fabrics'. Make sure you order the correct quantity. You now buy the 'lining fabric' as the outer fabric and for the lining you use a different lining fabric that is not quilted. Otherwise you will get a double layer and the jacket will look more like a down jacket instead of an elegant 'stepped' jacket.
We made the jacket out of beige stepped fabric and a normal lining. We finished the jacket with black binding and used beautiful buttons. The jacket is suitable as an outer jacket but also as an inner jacket, especially if you choose the model without a collar.
How about leather-look fabrics or suede stepped fabrics? Or a 'stepped' jacquard fabric? The jacket will be even more chic and elegant. You could also choose a binding with a motif or glitter in it. The result will be: a beautiful jacket for a special occasion.
Do you have a beautiful fabric and do you want to quilt it yourself? For an average seamstress that shouldn't be a problem. Buy a thicker fiberfill and sew the fabric to the fiberfill using lines. Use a ruler tool for the presser foot of your sewing machine or carefully draw the lines with chalk. A lot of work, but then you will soon have a very special and unique jacket!
If you want to make a quilted 'Chanel-look' jacket, the Neue Mode Stil M23079 is an ideal sewing pattern. However, it will not be easy to buy the older pattern and also to find a nice suitable fabric. But just put it on your 'wish list' and sooner or later you might get your hands on it.
Especially Model C. is 'Chanel-Style' in capital letters!
Burda 6465 is a sewing pattern 'Chanel-style jacket' with two variations in length and finish. We created Model B as a jacket for autumn.
The Burda sewingpattern is a sewing pattern of a short jacket (Model A) with fringes and a longer jacket (Model B) made of Loden fabric and finished with a piping. Model B is typically a jacket as it is often worn during Oktoberfest * in Germany. Especially the color, the finish and the fabric: loden is striking. Both models have princess lines, a round neck and sleeves that consist of two parts.
* = The Oktoberfest is a German festival and event that takes place on the Theresienwiese, a public place in the center of Munich. It's every year, from the end of September to the beginning of October. It's a big social event. People eat and drink a lot and there is a typical folkloric clothing style for men and women.
Recommended fabrics are: Model A: Bouclé, Model B: wool, Loden. You also need: shoulder pads, buttons, fringes or edges, bias tape, lining and interfacing.
Sewing level: average
The sewing pattern has been referred to as "averages". We agree with this. It is not a difficult jacket to make, but especially Model B: the princess lines trimmed with a piping, requires accuracy and experience from the seamstress.
We made the jacket out of brown thick cotton fabric (see below) and a silk lining with dots. The silk lining fabric is no longer for sale, but a nice alternative is next to the brown fabric: a beautiful mint-colored lining fabric. Our jacket is not really meant for the Oktoberfest, but we will definitely make it again. The jacket fits like perfect and has a beautifully tailored shape.
We will come back to Model A later. This short jacket is also ideal for making scraps of Bouclé fabric or as the ultimate upcycling project from existing jackets that can lead a different life as a slightly shorter jacket, made up of multiple types of fabric. The princess lines: smaller pattern parts are ideal for this.
With Model B you could make the piping in a contrasting color for a super nice effect. You can also omit the piping in its entirety, as we have done and go for a special lining.
Or completely Haute couture: make the piping in the same color as the lining.
Burda 6465 is a nice sewing pattern for the Chanel-style jacket (Model A) and a longer jacket for various clothing styles. The jacket looks great because of the lines, but is less comfortable, 'semi-fitted' would suggest...
The holidays will be different from 'life as we know it' this year. City trips to the big cities for Christmas shopping, going on a skiing holiday or large dinners with family and friends, these are all impossible because of the corona-crisis....
But people are creative and so we are going to celebrate it differently. But how? We have found some nice suggestions and ideas, beautiful sewing patterns (achievable in terms of deadline!) and above all: beautiful (affordable) fabrics!
Sense and Sensibility: a romantic blouse
We came across a beautiful blouse from Sense and Sensibility sewing patterns on the website of the online sewing pattern shop. This blouse is striking and beautiful and has three advantages that we would like to mention.
1. The blouse falls under the category: Historical clothing and is therefore suitable for L.A.R.P. (= Life Action Role Play) and Cosplay. It is a Victorian blouse that is actually a kind of basic garment. You can wear it with vests, but also corsets, coats, capes and dresses. The blouse is an eye-catcher but also a great basic garment.
2. The blouse is quite easy to make. The sewing pattern is clear and has no pitfalls or really difficult things that require a lot of sewing experience. It looks like a difficult-to-create blouse because of all the ruffles attached to it, but the basic pattern is quite 'basic'. You can also create a lot of extras with it.
For example, tailoring even more by adding more pleats and darts, or making it even more 'Victorian' by working with many ruffles and lace.
3. The blouse is timeless and is very comfortable to wear. Ideal for holidays-series. This blouse seems very 'dressed' but is really just a blouse that fits and wears comfortably. The holidays 2020 will, in most cases, be celebrated at home in a limited social circle. Wear a nice blouse, a skirt or jeans underneath and you will look festive without too much fuss!
Which fabric and color do you choose?
These fabrics are recommended for the sewing pattern: cotton, pima cotton, linen, voile, organic cotton, batiste, silk, and all other lightweight to medium weight fabrics.
DO NOT use stretchy or elastic fabrics. For the ruffles and other decorations you can choose: lace, bias band, decorative band, band with dots, fringes or embroidered trims.
Our fabric choice: a 'chain' viscose fabric with a nice and supple drape. Supple fabrics will look better and wear more comfortable. But you can also choose a stiffer fabric, the blouse will have more volume and appear more grotesque. This fits nicely with the new trend: The bubble.
Consider Taffeta silk or a poplin cotton. Do you really want to make something chic out of the blouse: choose silk or a special print. Create super chic cuffs in a contrasting color or let the special buttons be the eye-catchers.
Sewing and cutting:
Sense and Sensibility is a brand of fine, special patterns. The sewing pattern comes in a large sturdy paper envelope and the sewing pattern is drawn on sturdy white paper. So you just have to cut it out.
The instructions are very clear and nicely handwritten.
The only comment we have: the sleeves are short and the cuffs are quite tight. Adjust this yourself if you want the sleeves longer and if you want the cuffs to be slightly wider.
Also make sure that the seam allowances is 5/8 ". This is, quite untraceable, in the text on the cover of the sewing pattern.
'Sense and Sensibility: a romantic blouse' is a sewing pattern that you can use for many purposes. From an L.A.R.P. (= Life Action Roleplay) event to a blouse for daily use. Or a special blouse for the holidays.
The blouse is timeless and you can make it whatever you want. The blouse is also completely the new trend when it comes to shape and comfort (in Corona stay-at-home times).
A short jacket, a half-long jacket or a really very long jacket. You might think turning a short jacket into a long jacket is not thát difficult. Extend the fabric and you have the same jacket but then longer. But it is a bigger deal...
Long coat = other function
A long jacket has a completely different function. Long coats are usually meant to be worn over clothing to go outside. Hey, hey, doesn't everyone know that? That's right, but sometimes ugly mistakes are made in the sewing world. More spacious and wider Jackets are often underestimated in terms of sewing techniques. Sewing patterns are taken a little less seriously when it comes to long coats. Many seamstresses who have often made a long jacket, know that sewing a long jacket is just as meticulous work as making a short jacket. And that making a long jacket is not that simple at all. How often did we experience a long jacket is 'just not right'? Sadly, too many times.
A coat or a long jacket?
A coat always refers to an outer jacket. Usually it is a long classic model made of wool, loden or tweed. An outdoor jacket is more like a sporty (long) jacket made of waterproof fabrics, or a quilted jacket with a hood. In the sewing world, people talk about coats or simply: jackets. The shorter (Chanel style) jackets are often categorized with blazers or 'jackets'. Often it is confusing but follow the golden rule that coats are the outer coats and 'jackets' often the inner jackets.
How to sew longer coats or jackets?
Sometimes we notice that our project turned out to be a failure: the lining is incorrect, the shoulders are too wide and the jacket only fits well with a very thin t-shirt underneath. But unfortunately that was not the intention. Did we forgot about the instructions on the sewing pattern? Or are the fabrics just not suitable? We would like to point out that making a long jacket requires just as much love, knowledge and experience as making a short jacket. Maybe even more, because after all, you work with a lot of fabrics and materials.
A longer jacket in Chanel style? Is that possible? Yes indeed. A long bouclé or tweed jacket with a quilted lining is heavenly and you really want to wear it all year round. So nice and warm, so comfortable! It is quite a job but the reuslt will be: a piece of pure Haute couture.
If you want to make a longer Chanel-Style jacket, make sure you search for 'jackets'. Not on 'coats' or 'outdoor jackets'. If you really want to make a coat out of Tweed fabric or Bouclé to wear outside and over your clothes, look for 'cloaks' or 'coats'.
Please note: a nice long coat made of those fabrics is quite fragile and not durable. If you get caught on a splinter, a door handle or something else, the threads will easily tear out. A wolen coat is just as chic, slightly less 'Chanel-style' but stronger. Although this fabric is certainly not durable. And for all chic coatsmake sure to have an umbrella because the fabrics do not like rain and wind.
Suitable patterns for longer Chanel-style jackets:
Beautiful long classic coats that are suitable for Tweeds, Bouclé or Loden:
Tips & Tricks:
Additional options for advanced seamstresses:
If you want to make a longer jacket in 'Chanel-Style', consider quilting the lining on the outer fabric. Follow Claure Shaeffer's instructions from her book: 'The couture cardigan jacket' and you have a beautiful long Chanel jacket that wears and looks heavenly. It may be a lot of work but well worth it. Especially if you choose a Bouclé fabric that is very light or loose-fitting, sewing the lining to it is a good idea. It gives the jacket more strength and shape.
A longer Chanel-style jacket is completely different from a jacket in Bouclé or tweeds, see photo above. Both are chic, beautiful, timeless but take a little more time to make.
Read carefully which recommended fabrics are on the sewing patterns. Choose the fabric ánd lining carefully, it will be the difference between a great result or a failed project.
The holidays will be different from 'life as we know it' this year. City trips to the big cities for Christmas shopping, going on a skiing holiday or large dinners with family and friends, these are all impossible because of the corona-crisis.... But people are creative and so we are going to celebrate it differently. But how? We have found some nice suggestions and ideas, beautiful sewing patterns (achievable in terms of deadline!) and above all: beautiful (affordable) fabrics!
Vogue 1520: a chic evening dress
Vogue V1520 from designer Badgley Mischka, is a beautiful evening dress. Badgley Mischka is a designer who makes beautiful gala, bridal and occasion wear. This design fits perfectly in his amazing collection of beautiful evening wear.
It's an elegant dress that has a few big advantages. Three benefits!
First, the dress makes you look longer and slimmer. This is because pleats have been processed from the breasts to below the waist. So you can hide your belly by covering with the pleats. Maybe useful to wear an extra shape-wear shirt underneath, but you don't have to. Your own 'rolls' are less noticeable because of the rolls/pleats of the fabric.
Second, the dress can be made from afforable fabrics. If you choose stretch velvet or velvet de panne, the dress will be beautiful but cheap. These fabrics are not in the expensive price range. Most stretch velvet fabrics are ten euros per meter, or even less.
Third, the dress is timeless. If you wear this dress later for a festive occasion, the dress will really not be old-fashioned. It has no fashionable elements and it is just what you wear in terms of jewelry, shoes, bag or hairstyle. The dress is a timeless classic.
Suggestic fabrics and colors
These fabrics are recommended on the sewing pattern envelope: Stretch Velvet, Sequin Mesh, Rayon Spandex. And the lining: Tricot. With 'sequin mesh' is meant stretch sequin fabric and 'Tricot' for the lining is a short description of: tricot charmeuse lining.
It is important that the fabrics can stretch well in both length and width. A line with an extension is often indicated on the side of a sewing pattern envelope. This refers to the extent to which the fabric must be stretchable. The fabric should be able to stretch 10 cm. to 15 cm. As long as you choose Stretch velvet or velvet de panne, you don't have to double check this. These fabrics are known for their stretch skills.
We have found fabrics for you with budget fabrics:
1. Velvet-velours blue
2. Velvet-velours with flower design
3.and as lining fabric: Tricotlining petrol blue
We chose blue shades because they look great on festive occasions and these blue tones always match nicely with skin tone and hair color. And also with gold and silver. Blue fabrics can be combined endlessly and are less obvious than the traditional colors for the holidays such as red, green, gold and black.
Another favorite of ours: lycra velours soft ocher
The color Ocher yellow is a new trend. Ocher yellow is a warm, soft color, back to basics and goes very well with gold and warm colors. The Vogue V1520 in ocher yellow colors will be a very nice choice for New Year's Eve! You will stand out, even if it is by a digital connection with friends.
Sewing and cutting:
You have to pay attention when you are going to cut the fabric. Do not fold the fabric double, but put it in its total width on a table or on the floor. The front piece needs plenty of room just because it is cut in a wide arc, because of the wrinkles. Take a good look at how often you need to cut the fabric. Most sewing pattern parts do not have to be cut twice, only once, even the back panels. A different cutting schedule applies to the lining. Make sure you have cut enough fabric because the pattern does contain a lot of fabric. Stretch velvet or velor panne is not easy to cut. The fabric slips quickly. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric with extra pins and use weights in the middle of the pieces.
The same for sewing: use lots of pins. This prevents a lot of frustration. Make sure you use a stretch needle and a special foot for smooth fabrics.
There are no pitfalls or difficulties mentioned. With a little sewing experience you can do the job, as long as you take the time to work with the highly stretchy fabric..
We have chosen this sewing pattern because it is a dress that you can make fairly easily, the fabrics are not expensive and especially because the dress has a beautiful festive look.
The dress is also timeless, so you can wear the dress on several occasions, also in the coming years, when (hopefully) it is possible to celebrate the holidays with more friends and family.
More suggestions for the 'alternative' holidays will follow.
Dressing up or dressing down?
Vogue V8893 is a Claire Shaeffer design published by Vogue. We know Claire Shaeffer from the books: Couture Cardigan Jacket, Making Designers Trims and The Couture Skirt. She describes in her books how Coco Chanel designed her famous Chanel jacket, the faux wrap skirt and other classics. The sewing pattern V8893 is a cardigan as it was often created and worn by Coco Chanel herself.
In the spotlights; Vogue V8893, because it is actually a combination of a beautiful classic jacket, but can be worn just as nicely as homewear. This is the type of jacket/vest that will soon be your favorite item of clothing. Nice and warm, comfortable and 'dressed' enough. Do you to appear on Skype or Zoom? The neckline of this cardigan is an eye-catcher: pure simplicity, pure couture.
The Vogue sewing pattern is a loose jacket (vest) sewing pattern, the neck, front and pockets are hemmed with a band and the sleeves consist of three parts. The jacket is intended for the fabrics: Light-weight tweed, wool crepe, jersey. Notions: buttons and a metal chain.
Sewing level: average
The sewing pattern has been titled "Vogue AVERAGE". We disagree with this. Claire Shaeffer gives fantastic detailed instructions, but you have to have more sewing experience to understand them. Especially the neck with the bands, is a difficult job for which you need sewing experience.
We have made the jacket from jeans blue knitted fabric. The fabric is nice and warm and gives more of a 'vest look' than a 'jacket look'. We did the edging by band slightly differently. We made this from the same fabric, but later put an extra tres band around it. This to add a little more color to the cardigan and, to be honest, we made a mistake ...
As mentioned, this cardigan seems easy to create, but it is certainly not. It is couture and a real Chanel classic. The inside is also just as beautifully finished as the outside. Completely in the spirit of Coco Chanel. Claire Shaeffer's instructions should help you figure it out as an average seamstress, but don't underestimate it. In addition, knits and lightweight tweeds are not always easy to work with. They quickly fall apart or fray when you cut them.
You can adjust the sewing pattern yourself by, for example: lining it, making the sleeves in two parts instead of three parts and if you want the cardigan even more comfortable: opt for French terry or thicker sweat fabric.
You could also make the bands in different colors.
Vogue V8893 is a special sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style cardigan according to the vision of Coco Chanel and explained by Claire Shaeffer. (in the instructions for this pattern and in all of her books). The instructions are very comprehensive and clear.
But the jacket/cardigan remains a challenge for every seamstress. Keep this in mind if you don't have much experience with 'couture sewing techniques' yet.
This jacket is both a cardigan and a jacket and can be very casual/comfortable, but also pure couture and classic simplicity. It depends a bit on which fabric and how you finish it.
One thing is certain: it is great!
In our blogseries 'Holiday series with creative suggestions, sewing patterns and fabrics', we have a review for you about a dress by designer BADGLEY MISCHKA, published by Vogue V1605. The dress is not actually a dress, but a shirt and a skirt. The combination is very nice for the, the holidays season. It is also quite easy to sew and the fabrics are affordable.
Vogue V1605 is a design by Badgley Mischka. Badgley Mischka is a designer who makes beautiful gala, bridal and evening wear. This design fits exactly in that list. It is an elegant combination, chic but it can be worn used as a bit more casual as well. By this we mean: if you do not sew the bow permanently to the skirt the skirt is still glamour but a nice evening skirt as well. And the shirt is usuable for any occasion.
And last but not least: the combination is very comfortable because of the use of stretch fabrics.
Fabric and lining recommandations
The recommended fabrics are fabrics with a stretch content of 35%. This means that fabrics such as jersey and velvet are eligible for the shirt. And for the skirt: stretch twill and stretch satin. Note: the skirt lining has to be stretchy as well!
We have used these substances from Driessenstoffen:
Velours de panne - dark blue
Satijnstretch - dark blue
Stretch voering - blue
Cutting & sewing:
Cutting and sewing this sewing pattern requires extra time and attention. Velvet de panne is a fabric that quickly slips under the scissors, which makes it difficult to cut. Make sure you use extra pins and put weights on the fabric.
Also pay attention to the nap of the fabric. Stick to the cutting schedule on the sewing pattern. Sewing Velours de panne is easy to do if you provide special stretch needles for your sewing machine and again: good pins. It would be especially nice if you use a special presser foot for the sewing machine that ensures that the fabric does not slip easily.
The same goes for the stretch satin. It's not an easy fabric to cut and sew, but if you take the time to do it and really use more pins than usual, then it will be fine. As for the bow: reinforce this extra with 2 x interfacing! Or use a sturdy fabric as an intermediate layer. After all, the bow should stand a bit upright and not hang.
Fortunately, sewing the bow is easier than it may seem at first.
We have chosen this sewing pattern because it is a dress (combination shirt and skirt) which you can create easily. The fabrics do not have to be expensive and the dress still has a beautiful festive look.
It is clear that the dress is a beautiful, and a great comfortable alternative to sweatpants or sweater. More suggestions for the 'alternative' holidays will follow.
Breaking the pattern; 'A modern way to sew' is a book written by the Finnish sisters Saara and Laura Huhta. They founded the Finnish sewing pattern label "Named" and are successful. Named delivers two collections per year and encourages people to sew their own clothes. The sisters are very convincing and have a great taste of (Scandinavian) style.
"The aim of the collections is to bring a new perspective to making one’s own clothes and to support ethical and ecological consuming in contrast to a clothing industry focused on fast fashion."
For the beginner
The book is written for the novice seamstress. The book is divided into an introduction, projects and additional information. The introduction contains twenty pages of basic information you need to know before getting started. Everything is clearly explained and substantiated with excellent drawings and beautiful photos.
Next are the projects: ten sewing patterns explained in detail with instructions and photos. In the extra information you can read how to adjust a sewing pattern, there is a glossary and extra information about suppliers and web shops.
Beautiful sewing patterns
The sewing patterns are printed on loose pattern sheets added in an envelope in the book. The pattern sheets are reasonably clear but will be a puzzle for the absolute beginner. If you follow the instructions step-by-step, you can do it. We think it is a pity the pattern sheets are not numbered and that the sewing patterns in the book are not described with a number referring the pattern sheets. You have to unfold all the pattern sheets to find the right sewing pattern. Fortunately the pattern sheets are chronological. For example, pattern 1 is not on the same sheet as pattern 9.
A true workshop!
The book is a great tool to learn about sewing techniques. The sewing patterns start with a simple bag. You do not need a lot of sewing skills to get the jb done. The book finish with a walkloden coat which really a lot of sewing experience. The sewing techniques are explained per sewing pattern and are building up your skills.
The instructions are worked out in approximately 10-15 pages per pattern and also offer variations for the pattern.
Scandinavian style is stylish
The strength of this book and the sewing patterns lies in the beautiful simplicity that is visually presented very appealing. Most sewing magazines often pop to a lot of sewing patterns, styles and often the clothes don't seem very easy to create. This book radiates tranquility, simplicity and minimalism. The style of Scandinavia. When you see the sewing patterns, you immediately think: Yes I can! You can also adjust the clothing to your own taste by, for example, choosing a printed fabric instead of a plain fabric, or by applying variations in decoration and style.
To try out the sewing patterns we made the bag "Nummi" in two variations and the dress "Utu". The bag has a lovely pattern and is really easy to make. Goodbye big plastic shopping bag from the supermarkets, hello! home-made spacious shopping bag from Scandinavia.
With the bag you can vary as much as you want: add sturdy fabric as a bottom, make inner pockets for mobile and wallet or embellish the bag with passe-partouts like we did with a textile print from Mindfuldrawing.
The dress is a fun pattern for a beginner. We did discover a mistake: the side of the front piece is the number of centimeters shorter that the pleat takes up. Fortunately, this error can be solved by shortening the bottom of the back piece by two centimeters. The dress has a tight fit. Note this if you prefer a comfortable dress instead of a tight-fitting dress.
Also note: the seam allowances are 1 centimeter. This is stated in the introduction to the book. Not the 1.5 centimeters as usual with Burda patterns or seam allowances included as with Vogue, New Look, Simplicity, Butterick and most other brands.
The book is an absolute must-have for a friend who likes to be creative. Bur including all those beautiful sewing patterns, the book is very valuable. The sewing patterns are timeless and very stylish.
Butterick B6378 is a blouse that fits comfortably, has something extra and is also beautiful to wear under a Chanel-Style jacket or with the jacket draped over your shoulders. The Butterick B6378 is a great blouse, with or without a nice bow and quite easy to make.
The Butterick B6378 is not that different from the Butterick 6710. The only difference is a yoke at the shoulders and the opening at the front. The Butterick B6378 sewing pattern is a pattern for a blouse in four variations. The variation is in the length of the sleeves and in the bow.
The bow in Model B is long and wide.
With Model A, the bow is not around the neck but is located at the tunic opening.
In Model D it is just a string and Model C has quite different collar.
Due to these variations, the blouses look completely different.
Which fabric is this sewing pattern suitable for? The recommended fabrics are: Georgette, Challis, Crepe, Rayon. We made the blouse in dark blue viscose/cotton and light pink silk. The dark blue blouse (see below) we have added 'Chanel trims' to the tunic-like opening of the neck and at the bottom of the sleeves. This gives the blouse a real chic look.
We made the light pink silk blouse according to Model B. However, we left the sleeves loose in the seam instead of elastic sleeve openings. This gives the blouse a different look. The 'Silky satin' was bought at Driessenstoffen.nl
Sewing level: 'easy'
The sewing pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. Indeed, we think that the blouse pattern is 'easy to sew'. The sewing pattern has no pitfalls or difficulties.
But the bow from Model B. is not thàt easy to sew. Follow the instructions carefully so that you sew it by hand on the inside and not on the right side of the fabric.
Butterick B6378 is just like the Butterick 6710 is an easy pattern to make a classic blouse.
This blouse looks great under a 'Chanel-style' jacket because the bow makes the - often collarless - Chanel-Style jacket even more beautiful and classic.
The blouse can also be worn casually with jeans or pleated trousers, for example.
The instructions are very comprehensive and clear.
You can also vary enough with the pattern. For us, this tunic-like blouse falls under "The classics" because the design is timeless and a real must-have for someone who likes basic ánd classic style.
Whether you are an absolute beginner, a hobby seamstress with little experience, or an experienced seamstress, the success of a project often depends on choosing a good pattern. Which sewing pattern is the best if you want to create a DIY-Chanel jacket?
How to choose YOUR sewing pattern
A great sewing pattern is the most important start if you want to create a Chanel-Style jacket. It is not only about WHAT you want to make but also how you will make it. Which fabric do you need?
Which size do you have? How much time does it take to finish the project ? (Last one is important if you are creating some garment for a planned date, party or event...)
We assume you are looking around on our website because you are going to make a Chanel inspired jacket, skirt or other couture classic. But you are not sure yet which sewing pattern is the best option for your sewing project.
We will help with a step-by-step guide.
It happens to everyone; halfway a project, you realize the project is not what you had in mind, too little fabrics or lining, wrong size, your expectations were too high or you just do not have enough sewing skills yet to finish the project. No shame. Just continue with your goal and try to plan and oversee the next project a little better.
Now let's rock and roll:
1. First, think for a moment what you want
Do you want a shaped and formal Chanel-Style jacket? Or casual and comfortable? Very important! Take a look at the reviews or the backside of the sewing pattern-envelop. If you look for a tight, shaped and slim jacket, then choose a sewing pattern which is "fitted". If you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be more comfortable, maybe with front-sides open-hanging and a casual appearance; look out for the "semi-fitted" jackets.
Loose fitting is a more comfortable shape, belly freedom and not following the contours of the body closely.
Fitted jackets: Vogue V7975, Burda 6705, Simplicity 1421, McCalls M7058.
Semi-fitted jackets: Vogue V8804, Vogue V8991, Vogue V9095, Butterick B6382, Burda 6465, Burda 8949 and Neue Mode M23079
Loose fitting jacket: Vogue 9250, New Look 6496.
2. What about underlining?
The classic French Chanel jacket is famous mostly because of it's quilted lining, which offers an exclusive sense of movement, freedom and luxury. The "invention" of this jacket was innovative in the time that came after the corsets and the tight clothing code. The jacket gave the wearer a sense of freedom and made sure that it was still chic and exclusive enough to continue as a couture. Anyway, if you want to go for the classic and most exclusive version choose a pattern of Claire Shaeffer which offers the possibility and the instructions to quilt the lining.
Examples: Vogue V8804 en Vogue V8991.
The other Chanel Inspired jackets offer the normal standard way of linings. In advanced options, we will talk about quilting linings in other sewing patterns, but as said; it is only an extra option. The sewing pattern is not focused on this process, as above mentioned sewing patterns specific do.
If you prefer a jacket which is not underlined at all: New Look 6496, Burda 8949 and Simplicity 1421.
These unlined jackets are a great options for hot summers or a way to practice and to get to know your most beloved or desired Chanel Inspired Jacket.
3. Your skills or sewing level
Know your skills about sewing techniques. It might be a challenge to create a perfect, complicated and advanced Chanel jacket, but realize that it is also very, very frustrating if you need to stop your project because of problems or a lack of sewing experience.
Sewing Pattern give codes or names for the desired levels in different languages. Easy/Beginners/Basic/Facile/Very easy, Average/Mittel/Moins Facile or Advanced/Difficult/Plus Difficile.
This is based on classical training and is sometimes based on principles that seems logical but are not logical at all.
If you want to be sure; read our reviews. 'Average' is sometimes more difficult as it looks and even Easy or Beginners may require sewing techniques that you may not have mastered. The instructions on the Sewing Pattern are sometimes loud and clear. But sometimes they are not loud and clear at all.
If you want to be sure about your skills, you need to finish the project from the start till the day you will wear it with glory.... have a helping hand nearby or do not start with a sewing pattern which requires too much dedication, knowledge and advanced couture sewing skills.
4. Know your size
Needless to say... But do realize that size DOES matter. You can try on different sizes if you buy a jacket in a store. It is more common sizes are living their own lives these days because of mass-production and non-global standards.
If you start to sew (and cut the fabric) there is no way back. So be sure about your size, or even better: first create an example-size like they do at the big couture houses. Molton or mousseline fabric is ideal, or just a cheap fabric you do not use.....
5. The Fabrics
Read the Sewing Patterns requirements about the fabric and our reviews. The quantity you need is important ( do not forget to order or buy some extra fabric to create more pockets or self-made fringes), but also the kind of fabric. How a pattern or final result falls depends largely on the type of fabric used. Some patterns are great for tweeds or bouclé. Others are more suitable for wool or wool-blends.
If you want to try a fabric which is not mentioned on the sewing pattern; read our reviews. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a different type of fabric. But more often it is not such a good idea to ignore the advises.
On almost every sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals". Meaning: it will be a hell of a job to work with fabrics with squares, dots, stripes, shapes, patterns, corners, triangles, lines, diagonals on the pattern etc, to make it visually attractive. It might be work but you need a lot of extra fabrics and have advanced skills to construct the pattern-pieces to match the pattern on the fabric. It is really Haute Couture when a checkered or striped jacket looks perfectly visual symmetrical and perfect. Unless it is a big challenge; stick to choosing a fabric which will not be a burden.
On Claire Shaeffer's sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals or uneven plaids. Allow extra fabric to match even plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics."
Meaning: A yardage is a distance or length measured in yards. A fabric with nap is one what usually has a pile and will look different color shades from different angles. Velvet, velours, panne de velours ... Fabric with a one way design will also use the with nap cutting layout, so that the design on the fabric all runs in the same direction on the finished item.
What about buttons, fringes or adding pockets? Do you want a sewing pattern with a lot of pockets, fringes and trims? Or do you want a Chanel-style jacket which is plain...
7. It's the time of the season...
Last but not least: Think about the seasons. Are you going to sew a Chanel-Style SUMMER jacket or a warmth WINTER jacket?
Read all about the right fabric for a Chanel-Style SUMMER jacket.
Read more: Sewing patterns step by step
Vogue V8959 is a sewingpattern of a cape. Last Saturday we read in the Volkskrant magazine (Dutch) that capes are very trendy and there were capes all over on the latest catwalks. Time to start to sew a cape! And of course we created the cape in 'Chanel style'!
Vogue V8959 Sewing pattern
Vogue V8959 is a timeless classic. The sewing pattern is a pattern for a lined, wide cape in three different lengths, with a round collar and side seams and a back seam. The sides have openings as armholes. The cape has a front closure, which is closed with buttons or one button at the top. Recommended fabrics: wool, wool mixes, tweeds, brocade and tafetta.
Bouclé can be added to this list as well. This fabric is very suitable for a cape. The fabric is nice and warm and often very suitable for a cape. The cape then appears less massive (if the cape is made from uni colored fabric) due to the different shades of bouclé yarns.
Sewing level: VERY EASY is recommended. We do not think the cape is a great project for absolute beginners. But with a little help from someone else, a beginner can make this cape. However, don't underestimate it, because cutting the fabric, sewing the collar and sleeve openings and making the finishing touches requires a little sewing experience.
Quilting the lining
We quilted the cape in Chanel style. This means that we have sewn the silk lining on the inside of bouclé fabric. A very time-consuming job, but the cape is now truely Haute couture according to the vision of Claire Shaeffer. She explains this nicely in all her books about Couture techniques and specifically in the book "The couture cardgan jacket".
We made the cape from black / gray / white bouclé fabric and a light gray silk lining fabric. There is a trespa wool trims around the entire cape that gives the cape a beautiful finish.
Vogue V8959 is a great sewing pattern to make a cape in 'Chanel-Style' jacket according to the vision of Coco Chanel and explained by Claire Shaeffer. (in the instructions for this pattern and in all of her books).
Capes are also very trendy this season again and great outerwear for autumn and winter. If you make the cape of a neutral color, it will also match ány outfit.
Vogue V8991 is a Claire Shaeffer designed pattern, published by Vogue. We know Claire Shaeffer from the books: The Couture Cardigan Jacket, Making Designers Trims and The Couture Skirt. In her books she describes how Coco Chanel designed her famous Chanel jacket, the faux-wrap skirt and other classics. The sewing pattern V8991 is an example of a classic Chanel jacket and completely focused on the couture sewing techniques.
The vogue pattern: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has stand-up collar, side-front seams, side panels, no side seams, patch pockets, and two-piece, button sleeves with shaped lower edge. Note: Fabric is quilted to lining to provide added body.
The fabrics for this jacket: Lightweight Tweed, Wool Crepe, Boiled Wool. It is advisable to stick to the fabric recommendation.
Notions: Buttons, chain, triming, interfacing and Silk lining fabrics.
Sewing level: advanced
The pattern has been titled "Vogue ADVANCED". We agree with this. Claire Shaeffer provides great detailed instructions, but you must have sewing experience to understand them. The quilting work is a very difficult job if youdo not have sewing-experience.
Sewing-by-hand or 'Hand-sewing'
As mentioned, a lot is work for this project is sewing by hand. You gotta love this. You can find the stitches you need in most books and on the Internet. Claire Shaeffer also explains it nicely, but first learn more about it. Sewing by hand is more than just basting, the stitches have to be really strong and above all demonstrable.
The sleeves consist of two parts and we think the sleeves are quite narrow at the top. Make the pattern out of muslin first, to make sure it fits properly. Sleeves that are too narrow is really a pity. As a result, you cannot move comfortable in the jacket and there is even a chance that you will tear out, especially if you use delicate fabrics such as tweed and Bouclé.
The round sleeve-edges of the sleeves are very diffiuclt to make. If you do not want it make them: 'normal' sleeve edges are perfectly for this jacket as well.
Claire Shaeffer's extra 'couture instructions' are very nice. This allows you to really learn to sew with couture techniques that you will enjoy later on. The instructions are "the secrets of the master". This way you can make a real couture jacket from an affordable pattern and fabric of your choice.
We made the jacket from light grey cotton bouclé. The Bouclé fabric was light and not too loose. This Bouclé offers the possibility to easily make the fringes and finishings with a contrast color: fuchia.
Note: make the fringes from a double row of fabric. This gives a nicer effect and thus the fringes are easier to see. Use an overlocker to make a nice flat edge that you can easily sew onto the jacket. Or rather: between the different pattern pieces.
The Chanel-style jacket has a classic look and is easy to combine with any kind of outfit.
Vogue V8991 is a special sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket according to the vision of Coco Chanel and explained by Claire Shaeffer. (in the instructions for this pattern and in all of her books). The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. Yet this jacket remains a challenge for every seamstress.
Keep this in mind if you don't have much experience with 'couture sewing techniques' yet. The sewing pattern is a Chanel-style jacket par excellence. Good luck !
Butterick B6382 is a sewingpattern from Butterick. It is a sewing pattern for a lined jacket in four different variations. Especially models A, C and D are typical of the 'Chanel look'. The jacket is comfortable and easy to make.
The butterick sewing pattern is a pattern for a loose-fitting, lined jacket. The neckline can be varied from normal to a low neckline or a collar. There are also variation in lengths. There are no variations in front closure. The jacket is hanging open and therefore does not close. It is clearly a jacket to put on over a dress, blouse or t-shirt.
The jacket is intended for the fabrics: Tweed, Gabardine, Bouclé and Linen. This makes the jacket suitable for both summer and winter. You can go in many directions with this pattern.
Sewing level: easy
The pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree with this. The jacket has no pitfalls or difficulties. As a novice seamstress, this jacket is easy to sew. However, it is advisable to adjust the fabric. Don't start with Bouclé. This is a difficult fabric to sew. If you do, read our article: How to sew Bouclé fabrics.
The recommended fabrics: garbadine and linen are a lot easier to sew.
Butterick B6382 is a fun and easy pattern to make the Chanel-style jacket. The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. The jacket is comfortable and nice variations are possible.
If you want to give the jacket a little more 'couture' look, make folds in the jacket: 'shape' it to your own shape.
Do you prefer to wear a nice, silk blouse under a Chanel-style jacket? A blouse that fits comfortably, has something extra and is also nice to wear with the jacket over your shoulders. The Butterick B6710 is a great blouse, with or without a nice bow and quite easy to create.
The Butterick B6710 sewing pattern is a pattern for a blouse in three variations. You can wear the bow around your neck, you can wear the bow crossed and loose or you can skip the bow completely.
The model has a tailored fit but is comfortable and also quite casual. The sleeves also offer variations: with a ruffle, with a nice cuff or just with an elastic band.
The blouse closes with buttonholes and buttons.
Which fabric do you need to use?
The recommended fabrics are: Crepe de Chine, Charmeuse, Double georgette and silk.
(We made the blouse in dark red silk and we liked it. The fabric came from a thrift store and was sold as 'table silk' for only three euros. A wonderful find and a great idea for recycling and upcycling! )
Crepe de Chine is also a pleasure to work with. Charmeuse is less suitable for the novice seamstress. This fabric does not fold nicely, cuts nicely and is not pleasant to sew.
If you want to find an alternative to the (expensive) Crepe de Chine or silk: make sure the fabric is a flexibel fabric. In our opinion, viscose and chiffon can also be used for this blouse.
Sewing level: 'easy'
The sewing pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree with it.
The sewing pattern has no pitfalls or difficulties. Practice beforehand on a test piece for the buttonholes. Incorrectly sewn buttonholes in lightweight fabrics such as silk are difficult to mend. An alternative would be press studs instead of buttonholes.
Butterick 6710 is an easy sewing pattern for a classic, silk blouse. This blouse looks great under a 'Chanel-style' jacket because the bow makes the - often collarless - jacket even more beautiful and classic.
The blouse can also be worn casually over jeans or pleated trousers, for example.
The instructions are very comprehensive and clear.
This sewing pattern is recommended to use often. You can also vary enough with the pattern.
We have found a sewing pattern for a Chanel-Style jacket that is quite simple for anyone to create. Not only quite simple and easy, but it might be possible 'to sew the jacket in one day'. The Mc Calls 8540! A great pattern for a 'Chanel-Style' jacket in one day (our opinion).
Mc Calls 8540
The Mc Calls sewing pattern is a pattern for several jackets and blouses. There is even a variation in a lined jacket and an unlined jacket. The jacket has a front closure with buttons. The collar can be low or upright/upstanding. We have chosen model B. A simple sewing pattern for a Chanel-Style jacket that you could make in one day.
Which fabric is this sewing pattern suitable for?
The recommended fabrics are: soft cotton or cotton blends. Chalis (Rayon), Crepe, silk, jersey, woven cotton, lace or knitted fabrics.
Note: the recommended fabrics are not indicated per model. We assume that for model B (and A), only the non-stretch fabrics apply. The stretch fabrics will most likely apply to the blouse / shirt. Stretchy fabrics would make the jacket way too big. In our view, the model is not suitable for this.
Sewing level: 'easy'
The pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. Indeed, we think that the pattern of the jacket and blouse are 'easy to sew'. The jacket has no pitfalls or difficulties.
As a solution to the downsides, we have added pleats in the jacket. This makes the jacket much nicer in shape. If you are a novice seamstress, ask for help with pleating, or use a sewing mannequin.
You can also decorate the sleeves by making an extra edge with buttons. (See last photo). We have used thick wool fabrics. This is a great fabric for this sewing pattern. Simply finish with width trims for the edges and yes: a 'Chanel-Style' jacket in one day!
Mc Calls 8045 is an easy pattern to make a classic 'Chanel style' jacket.
The instructions are very comprehensive and clear.
The jacket is ideal for making beautiful woolen fabrics (woolen tweed, bouclé), making variations in edges (width trims!). And using beautiful buttons.
Try to create folds/pleats in the jacket: waist and 'shape' it to your own shape! (See the difference between photo 3 and 8)
This blog is not a review about a sewing pattern for a Chanel-Style jacket, but this review is about a pattern for a jumpsuit. A classic: the Vogue V9245! A pattern for a timeless fashion item, but unfortunately with some comments from us.
The Vogue pattern is a sewing pattern for a sleeveless jumpsuit and jumpsuit with sleeves. There are no further variations in sleeves, length or collars. The sewing pattern is suitable for the summer and therefore typical summer fabrics are recommended: jersey, challis and lightweight crepe fabric.
We do not understand why jersey is recommended. Jersey clearly falls under the stretchable and elastic fabrics and this pattern is not suitable for elastic fabrics.
Challis is a lightweight woven fabric, also called Rayon. This fabric might be transparent, so pay attention to that. Rayon is an ideal summer fabric because it is absorbent, feels nice and soft, but is also breathable. Also note: prewash is recommended to prevent shrinkage.
If you want to add a 'Chanel-style touch': make the jumpsuit in the beloved Chanel colors: black, white, beige, gold or red. (see video below).
A jumpsuit can be chic if you make it in subtle colors, add beautiful trims or lace and combine it with pearls or classy jewelry.
Sewing level: very easy
The sewing pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree with this, but it is certainly not 'very' easy. The sewingpattern is very long, there is a lot of fabric involved and you can easily make mistakes by losing the overview.
Vogue V9245 is a fun sewing pattern for a timeless jumpsuit. The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. The jumpsuit is great for the summer. Nice and airy, easy to wear and if made of Rayon or travel fabrics: ideal to take with you on a trip.
However, the sewing pattern is not entirely correct in terms of the base: the cross is not correct and is too far back. You need to fix it because without doing this, the crotch will not feel good and it will be a problem if you actually sit down.
This blog is not about a review of a sewing pattern for a Chanel-Style jacket, but this review is about a pattern for a classic, long coat. The Burda 6462! A great pattern for a timeless fashion item.
The Burda sewing pattern is a loose-fitting, lined coat. The top collar offers two variations, for example, fur, fleece or another contrasting fabric. There are also two variations in lengths: Model A. is a real classic long coat. Model B is a casual midi-length jacket. The jacket closes easily with three buttons and the model offers a variety of pockets: patch pockets or welt pockets.
Sewing level: average
The pattern is suitable for the average seamstress. We think the sewing pattern of the jacket is easy to sew, but the welt pockets are probably the reason an 'average sewing level' has been advised. The jacket has no pitfalls or difficulties.
The jacket is intended for the fabrics: wool, loden or Bouclé.
In terms of Bouclé fabric, we recommend: How to sew Bouclé fabrics.
Working with thicker fabrics is a bit difficult and it does require precise work. Perhaps also for this reason that the sewing level is set to average.
Burda 6462 is a beautiful and easy pattern for a classic long coat. The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. Note: with Burda patterns always cut 1.5 cm seam!
The coat is ideal for making beautiful Tweeds and Bouclé fabrics.
If you want to give it a Chanel style or Haute couture touch, make the jacket from Bouclé fabric and sew the lining to the outer fabric, as explained in Claire Schaeffer's sewing techniques. It will be a bit of a puzzle, especially at the collar, but for an advanced seamstress this is certainly possible.
And make darts in the coat: 'shape' it to your own style!
Vintage sewing patterns are very popular. Not only because their value is high (especially when they are collector's items!) but mainly because many seamstresses also consider it as a sport to actually make clothes of the sewing patterns. They make the clothes to wear themselves or for Cosplay and LARP events. But there are some common problems and we have tips to avoid them.
Vintage sewing patterns are more popular than ever
If you make yours clothes yourself, you are aiming it does not show... Seamstresses prefer not to hear, "Selfmade?" when they should actually be proud of the fact they made the cloths themselves. But they are afraid that there is always an undertone in that comment like: "You can see that, it is just not good enough". Of course that is nonsense, because self-made cloths are often unique, beautifully tailored and much more sustainable.
With vintage clothing, however, there is a different tenor. "Self-made" makes more sense and sounds like a compliment. Finally, vintage clothing is often striking because of the shapes and lines and therefore super feminine. If you have found the right size, or if you have done some pattern adjustments, the clothing is also nicely tailored.
Cosplay and LARP
Vintage sewing patterns are often very popular for Cosplay and LARP. Sewing patterns: 'Historical clothing' ánd Cosplay, but also all other retro- and vintage patterns.
Because of the shapes in the vintage clothing, they are often nice to expand with corsets, crinolines underneath or to make mega dresses. But eventhough... you can run into problems while making vintage clothing ...
Pay attention! The pitfalls of vintage sewing patterns:
1. The times when 'vintage' or 'reto' was reallife, there were no elastic or stretchable fabrics. The sewing patterns are therefore all based on fabrics such as: garbadine, chiffon, linen, lace, cotton, jacquard and wool. The clothing must therefore be properly tailored because the fabric will not help you to feel comfortable or make you look super-shaped like stretch fabrics do...
Tip: don't make these patterns of elastic or stretchy fabrics. This can cause the pattern to be incorrect and give strange results. Choose fabrics which are recommended for the sewing pattern or the onces you like to both sew and wear.
2. In vintage patterns there are many darts and pleats. If you want to create a nice upper body or a nice waist, you can count on it that there will be a lot of darts in the pattern that will create the desired shape. With some fabrics this is difficult to achieve and it looks less beautiful than you had hoped.
Tip: learn to work with darts and pleats and consider it as a challenge. Use a sewing mannequin (adjusted to your size) to pin the darts in and 'play' with it until it fits. Take your time so it doesn't become a frustration. Once you get the feeling for 'shaping', it's more fun than you thought it would be!
3. Most of the patterns that show over-exaggerate waistes, often illustrated on the cover of the sewingpattern. But remember in these times women were always wearing corsets under their outfits. Nature was given a helping hand to create the waist that most women can now only dream of ...
Tip: Do you still want a (very) small waist to fit in the vintage dresses? Buy an elasticated waist corset, one that fits snugly but creates a little more waist. In the 'shapewear' section of underwear, you can often find pleasant waist shapers that you can wear comfortably without gasping for breath or torturing your body. A tight, shape shirt also works wonders and often not only fits comfortably, but also looks really nicer under tighter dresses or blouses.
4. Collars often have different or even strange shapes (see picture above). The ends of the collars are often sharper, longer or sometimes weirdly shaped. Or like the top photo, far right: floral. Sometimes this really fits into the overall picture. Sometimes they are over-the-top or make the clothes look old-fashioned instead of interesting.
Tip: adjust the collars to your own ideas. Copy the bottom length of the collar from the pattern and the rest of the pattern with a pencil. You then have the basis. After this you can make the collar ends as long, as straight, as round or as short as you would like.
5. Finally, we would like to point out that vintage dresses are often midi length. Or blouses are just a little too long (these were often worn in the skirt, never loose / casual over it). The length of the midi dresses and skirts can look nice, but also old-fashioned or messy, or accentuate thick calves, for example.
Tip: very simple: adjust the length. Do this as the very last action. Try on the dress for a mirror, or on the sewing mannequin and let someone else help you. Your own perspective from above often gives a different picture than a person who is further away and sees a better overall picture. The length of blouses is easier to adjust. If you like to wear a blouse loose, don't make it too long, this looks more sloppy than nice and casual.
Advantages of vintage sewing patterns:
But there are also many advantages of vintage sewing patterns. As we have already mentioned: the sewing patterns are often ideal for Cosplay and LARP and often eye-catchers because of the beautiful shapes and special lines. Moreover, the fabrics that are used are also different than usual or have a nice 'retro print'.
Another plus is that many patterns can be used as a 'normal pattern'. See above: The blouses are often classic, timeless and just super feminine. Especially on the left: the blue blouse would look great combined with jeans, and high heels or higher boots.
Remember what Mary said about Downton Abbey clothing: "I really wanted to take the blouses home, I was totally hooked."
Finally: the vintage sewing patterns are often ideal for indulging in buttons and beautiful trims. Just like our beloved Chanel style jacket! Be creative, indulge yourself and make it unique. Get rid of mass production, throwaway clothes.
Create your own clothes with beautiful vintage sewing patterns!