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Couture cutting is gold!

8/24/2020

 
In Dutch
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As a child you learn to cut at school and you will continue to do it all your life. It is such a basic action in life, you never think about it for a minute. In the couture world, however, cutting is a big deal. In fact: cutting is an important couture technique.

Cutting as a tailor
In Haute couture world, expensive materials are used.  As a  hobby seamstress you are probably buying less expensive fabrics. Maybe you bought a fabric of 10 euros per meter, or maybe one of 30 euros. Suppose  you need 1.5 meters for a jacket, so you are cutting a piece of fabric of 45 euros. In the worst case, and that happens a lot, you make a mistake and you screw up the piece of fabric.

Disaster, s.o.s.
This happens to everyone a few times. Even advanced seamstress are making mistakes.
You forgot the grain of the fabric or you forgot to cut extra inches for the hems. Or you will find out that you have cut two right sleeves.
Not a disaster, if you have bought enough fabric, but a (small) disaster if you have to buy the fabric, but it is just not available anymore.

Cutting is part of the entire project that should not be underestimated. The more accurately you cut the pattern, the better the next step of your project.
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Scissors are the workers!
When you start sewing, it looks like the scissors are no longer needed. But nothing is less true. Cutting is a big part of the whole process. You have to cut the corners, you have to make notches for the curves and you often have to trim the hems when the fabric has to be sewn together on the right sides.
And: the scissor is your big friend if you don't have a lock machine (yet). You have to cut precisely and zigzag the hems. And even if it is just the inside of the garment, the more accurately you work, the better and more professional are the result(s).

Cutting as art
In the book Ultimate Sewing Bible beautiful drawings about cutting or "couture cutting" are described:
  • trimming corners of the fabric so the fabric folds in a better way
  • cutting angled corners, you need a scissor with long blades (like the golden scissor)
  • cutting-in (= clipping) sharp corners
  • cutting triangles out of concave curves to avoid unwanted stretch in the fabric
  • cutting convex curves so that superfluous fabric does not cause bumps.

​A lot of precise work but it will be worth the effort!

We want gold!
It is therefore soooooo important to work with good scissors. A wire cutter for finishing the remaining wire. A stork scissors for small secure work and a golden pair of scissors to cut the fabric and the lining and to keep at hand for cutting during the sewing process.

A very fine pair of scissors is the Golden Scissor. Razor sharp, very precise and comfortable in the hand. These scissors are the number one in quality sewing scissors for the sewing world.

Our best buy:
  • Razor sharp
  • Good grip
  • perfect for cutting Bouclé fabrics
  • and for the finest silk fabrics
  • not too heavy, bot too light
  • looks glam
  • Just bloody perfect !

Nothing as ordinary and unimportant as scissors? No, nothing as important as good scissors! A small investment but a tool that makes your sewing project looks like a piece of couture-art.
Our best buy: The Golden Scissor

The best sewing tools and accessories

6/2/2020

 
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A sewing machine, a piece of fabric and an idea ..
these are enough to do the job..?  many novice seamstress might think... . But that is unfortunately not true. With a sewingmachine, a sewingpattern and a piece of fabric, you can go a long way but you are not there yet.
Let's think for a while: cooking or baking is your passion. A pan, a recipe, the ingredients and let's start cooking. But that is not the reality. In an average household you should not just open a kitchen cupboard, chances are that a load of things will look at you. As soon as cooking or baking is a passion, a lot of kitchen tools are needed and wanted. From spatulas to food processors. They make it easier for you, they give you more options and possibilities and you enjoy the cooking big time.


Sewing as a hobby or passion!
This also applies to sewing. No overcrowded cupboards full of stuff are needed, but we like to mention the best sewing supplies, tools or accessoires. These are simply very useful and make it easier for you. And make you enjoy sewing even more. Of course you do not have to purchase all these items immediately. But put them on your wishlist. Or buy the tools as soon as they are on sale. On the market they are sometimes in large containers, or on webshops they are listed under 'parts' or sometimes under 'haberdashery'. In this case, the following applies: cheap is expensive. It is better to buy a good good pair of scissors than ten times a bad cheap version. And the first option is also a lot more sustainable.


These little sewing tools are BIG friends:     
  • a seam ripper (indispensable tool!)     
  • good scissors: the golden scissors, pinking shears, small scissors and a wire cutter     
  • sewingmachine needles (always have different sizes in stock: silk fabrics, elastic fabrics or thicker jeans, ask for different sewing machine needles than the other fabrics)     
  • sewingmachine feet (every sewing machine has a few standard feet, but if you sew intensively, several special feet are a very useful tool)     
  • corner and edge former (it's just a small piece of plastic, but oh so handy to shape corners. And many times better than puncturing the fabric with scissors)     
  • a pincushion and especially ironing pads! In other words: called Tailor's ham.
Read more about;
the best sewing supplies, tools and accessories

All about Sewing mannequins

5/14/2019

 
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A mannequin is THE best friend of a seamstress! We do not mean: mannequins such as the mannequins on display in fashion stores, but adjustable mannequins. These are indispensable to make tailor-made clothing!
Adjustable mannequins
There are many types and sizes for sale on the market. It is difficult for a beginner- seamstress to make a good choice. Most mannequins look a bit overwhelming. Do you really need the accessories and do you really need to have so many options in terms of size settings?

Too many choices? 
Which mannequin is your best-buy? What is important to notice and how do you know the difference between a good mannequin and a less good mannequin? It is important to think carefully before you are going to buy the mannequin. Do you sew clothes exclusively for yourself or for customers?

Time-saver and a critical eye
A mannequin is a handy tool, not only because it will save many fitting sessions (=time and money), but also because you can continuously fit the clothing. Viewing the mannequin from a distance, ensures your critically eye at the clothing. Moreover, it is a lot more convenient to pin off clothing. In particular, consider the benefits of tailoring the back nicely. No matter how creative and lean you are; it has never been possible for a seamstress to fit the in front of a mirror ....
​We have made an overview with points for attention
  • Please note that if you are looking for an adjustable mannequin, you are not looking for a "mannequin" that is on display in fashion stores to show clothing. Look especially at sewing stores and web stores for the sewing and hobby world. 
  • In terms of naming it changes quite a bit on the internet. In English a sewing mannequin is usually called "Sewing mannequin" but it is also called a manikin, dummy, lay figure or dress form.
  • It seems logical but: do you want a man's or women's mannequin? Gender neutral nowadays also exists, but usually the mannequins are nevertheless classified according to 'men' or 'lady' body shapes.
  • Do you want a larger size or a smaller size? The sizes are very important: you don't just 'make' larger sizes from an S-size. Conversely, too: you cannot adjust an L-mannequin to an S or XS size. The adjustability is more in the mutual proportions of the body parts than in clothing sizes as we are used to.
  • Nobody is perfect. A mannequin that has the ideal size is nice and nice, but a mannequin that is easily adjustable in several places, at least 8, (also think of the neck and back length) is the ideal friend of every dressmaker!
  • Will the mannequin get a permanent place or will you move the mannequin often? Nothing is as annoying as the standard on which the doll stands, constantly having to 'make' it again. With many mannequins, the 'feet' consist of three tubes that are perfectly stable, but fall apart as soon as you lift the mannequin. In this case it is really better to buy a fixed foot / standard.
  • In terms of color: do you want a striking red mannequin as an eye-catcher in your studio? Or would you prefer a black dress that looks great on that wedding dress? Or would you prefer a gray one with is more decent? The gray one is also more pleasant in case you often put the clothes on the photo ...
  • An absolute must: buy an adapter with it. Especially if you often make pants and skirts, it is nice that you do not always have to remove the mannequin 's body from the standard. You can also move the adapter to the left or right so that you can play the trouser legs neatly one by one.
  • Last but not least: buy a mannequin that is covered with good fabric. The fabric is very important because you don't want the clothes to slip off or your pins to disappear. Or the reverse: the material is difficult to pin and it just does not cooperate.
  • Last but not least: the prices vary greatly but one thing is for sure: you often buy a mannequin once. So it is really worth the investment to buy a good mannequin that will last for years.​
Facts and stories

A mannequin (also called a manikin, dummy, lay figure or dress form) is an often articulated doll used by artists, tailors, dressmakers, window-dressers and others especially to display or fit clothing.

If you need help marking hems or particular skirts; a sewing mannequin is the best help you can get.
Also if you sew for clients: a mannequin is perfect to fit the clothes every time needed. Most mannequins have several sizes-options, sometimes even 8 or more.
'No-body' has the perfect body; sewing mannequins are a great help for fitting clothes on bodies which are not-standard sizes.

While these forms generally have a much higher price tag (usually between $100and $1,000), their features and longevity significantly outweigh those of the standard display versions.
For one, professional dress forms feature more accurate proportions and are available in a variety of sizes.

Fashion designers sometimes use a technique called draping when designing and sewing garments. Basically, it involves draping fabric around a dress form and pinning it into the desired shape.
Retailers use various techniques to display their products so as to attract the potential buyers. Mannequins, help the retailers to draw the customers to their stores. ...
​They are important tools of retail business.
They first communicate with the customers through visual merchandising.
​
Every Couture-house owns a lot of sewing-mannequins and some sewing mannequins are even labelled and exclusively for important clients. If the client gain weight, she has to inform the couture-house...
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  • Home
    • Contact
    • Disclaimer (EN)
    • Disclaimer (NL)
  • Blog (NL)
  • Blog (EN)
  • Sewing Patterns
    • Sewing Patterns by number
    • The Classics
    • Cosplay, LARP & Fantasy
  • Book Reviews
    • Couture and Chanel books
    • (Couture) Sewing Books
    • Valuable sewing books
  • Sewing Guide
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Sewing a Chanel Style Jacket
    • Fantastic Fabrics (EN) - Stoffenkennis (NL)
    • Sustainable ideas
    • LARP & Cosplay >
      • Haute Couture, LARP en Cosplay
    • Baudekin Studio
    • Advanced Sewing Projects >
      • What is real Haute Couture?
      • Couture Sewing Techniques
      • Couture Sewing Techniques versus Basic Techniques
  • Chanel-Style
    • Chanel-Style Styling
    • Authentic versus Fake Chanel jackets
    • Chanel Cardigan or Jacket ?
    • Video's about Chanel