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How to make a 'Chanel-Style' jacket


All about the Chanel-jacket, creating your own Chanel-Style jacket,
couture book reviews and products reviews*

* We are non-profit website

Stylish Clutches

28/1/2020

 
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Stylish Clutches - Friends that rhyme!

Friends that rhyme?

Yes, lets meet Sabine and Nadine.

'We’re part of the Conscious and Fair Fashion Movement. We upcycle vintage textiles to create our pieces; using what is already available and adding history and individuality to every wristlet and clutch (besides, we love the thrill of the hunt) - it’s win-win! All of our pieces are handmade by talented individuals who work independently or for small organizations that offer fair work environments.'

Read all about these wonderful creative ladies and
their lovely, stylish, sustainable, time-less
and
unique C L U T C H E S !

Simplicity 4954: Go green!

28/1/2020

 
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Simplicity 4954, Lined Jacket with front and trim variations

Sewing level:  ?

Fabrics: Demin, Corduroy, Damask, Twill, Wool and wool blends, Tweeds, Brocade, Satin, Shantung, Velvet, Linen and Linen blends.

Notions: Shoudler pads, Ribbon, Buttons, flower, trims, interfacing and lining fabrics.

Good points:

  • Sewing level: unknown.... our opinion: MEDIUM - ADVANCED
  • Bouclé fabric not mentioned, but perfectly for this jacket
  • Lots of variations possible
  • Surprisingly GOOD SHAPE !
  • Sleeves: wide, very nice for women with heavy arms.
  • Great movement, comfortable jacket.

A bit less good points:

  • It looks very easy but take your time to create this jacket.
  • The longgggg and wide sleeves might look a bit too much for slender figures.
  • Round neckline is okay but might be to narrow for women who want to wear the jacket with closed front.

All about the color GREEN in Chanel couture

All about Bouclé fabrics

19/1/2020

 
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Chanel jackets are recognizable because of their sublime fabrics. Often tweeds and Bouclé fabrics are used.  Read the history of the Chanel-jackets and you know why!

Bouclé fabrics are always very beautiful and they have great options to play with the fringes, braiding the threads and create something really special and unique.

But Bouclé fabrics are also very tough and not easy to manage.

Read all about Bouclé fabrics and how to sew Bouclé fabrics !

Abd if you want to show us your Chanel-Style selfmade jacket, be our guest!

Sustainable Vogue Italia !

12/1/2020

 
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And then suddenly there is a Vogue without photos but only with illustrations. The Italian Vogue. A statement regarding sustainability and a gesture to the world that the fashion world is not blind to current social problems due to the effects of climate change.

Models board the plane as "normal" people take the bus or catch the fites. Everything but sustainable. And why? To fly from photo shoot to photo shoot that are often held in the most popular locations around the world. A 'shoot' in Iceland? No problem, or rather South Africa. It does not matter. Everything for a nice photo and the budgets are still big enough.
Clothing is also 'flown in' by courier, make-up artists, photographers, assistants, stylists, etc. Where is the limit? Glitter and glamor is still of paramount importance. Higher than the environment and global issues, unfortunately.

But now: hire a few illustrators and leave the rest to the readers' fans. Beautiful illustrations of fashion. Just like in the old days. For photography, fashion artists were people with a high profile, artists that we still enjoy. Who doesn't love those beautiful vintage drawings that are still a cultural heritage? A great and good idea.

Let's hope that the Vogue will follow from other countries and this will happen more often. It certainly shows that the fashion world is participating in sustainability. Bravo!

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Link -> Vogue Italia

Overlocker Lewenstein 700 DE: a review!

6/1/2020

 
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Our review:

First impression:
Excellent packaging. The lock machine is packed tightly with lots of polystyrene for protection. It arrived in perfect condition.
The lock machine comes with a handy collection tray, for saving threads and dust ! The container is not large but it fits well.
The overlocker looks plain. For a techie who loves buttons, technical gadgets, and flashing lights, this may be a disappointment. However, for those who loves simplicity and no unnecessary frills, the machine looks perfect.
The machine is made of strong plastic (not metal). Kit is therefore easy to lift, saving weight and avoiding an old-fashioned look. Its design is even child-friendly crounded corners. This makes the machine look friendly, feminine and, above all, easy to use. The machine stands firm/steady on a desk.

Let’s get to work!

1. The cover and the manual:
The supplied cover (plastic cover) is made of plastic. It is ideal for preventing dust, one should replace it with prettier design. Time to make one!
The manual limits itself to four languages, Dutch, German, English, and French. Dutch is immediately on the first language, at the far left of the page. The manual is in A4 horizontal format. The letters are small (reading glasses needed!) The visual instructions are large and clear.

2. Preparation:
Starting up, is not the best part of the process. But the manual and Matri, will pull your through. Lots of articles have been written about starting up a locker, because threading is often so difficult that there are enough seamstresses who throw the lock machine out the window if they haven't given up the fight and and accept cutting and zigzagging forever. Though kickstarting the process is tricky, once you have it going, a lock machine offer endless posibilities. (see point 3.)

The lighting is good. The light appears clear and focused. Replacing the light is easy. This is described in the manual on the very last page (40).

The preparations can also be seen on the videos: https://www.matri.eu/lockmachines/lewenstein-lockmachine-700de

3. Threading:
The manual is clear, even for a beginner. Threading the threads is described per thread on a whole page. Threading the upper gripper and the lower gripper is equally difficult but both the manual and the inside of the flap clearly indicate this, per color. Do not give up should the first attempts leave you wondering. In the long run, it will be just as easy as the sewing machine and you will settle in a routine just like using a sewing-machine. Tip: start with red threads. This makes it easier to see what you are doing and you are less likely to make mistakes, such as with white threads.

4. Overlocking:
With a sewing machine you keep a distance to ensure thread tension. With a locker you can "play" with the thread tension. On pages 24 and 25 of the manual, you find extensive instructions should one of the four threads fails to being properly tensioned.

Tip: The book: The Overlocker Technique manual from Julia Hincks, describes in detail how you can make beautiful stitches with 2-thread, 3 or 4-thread settings.

The sound of the engine is normal.

The free-arm option is IDEAL! Now you are able to lock a sleeve neatly and easier. The free arm option makes creating couture a lot easier because you can work far more precisely.


5. Accessories:
The purchased locker foot set is highly recommended should you intend to use the lock machine intensively.https://www.matri.eu/naaimachine-onderdelen/overlock-machine-voeten/lewenstein-overlock-voeten/overlock-voeten-set-5-stuks-1332

This set makes it possible to blind-hem, to lock elastic fabrics even better, to thread in cords or pearl chains, and to piping and wrinkling.

The blind set includes the blindhem foot, which is an ideal foot if you want to blindhem large pieces, such as curtains. Blindhemming always seems a lot of work, but with this foot it is a piece of cake.

We tested the feet and were especially enthusiastic about the rolled-hem foot. This is ideal for thinner fabrics and still looks a lot better than normal hemming. It is also fun to do it with the locker.

The pearl foot is a nice extra accessory for finishing a real couture garment. You probably won't do this so often, but if that possibility is there, and it's not at all that difficult as you think at first, you'll probably do it more often. After all, it gives a finishing touch or a very personal touch to a piece of clothing.

Schedule an afternoon to practice with the feet and that time will pay for itself in even better working with the overlocker! An explanation of the use of the feet: click on this link.


Maintenance
The manual contains tips for maintenance and trouble-shooting in the event of problems. The supplier's website also contains a few links with tips for maintenance.

Spare parts are available: https://www.sewingmachine-parts.com/overlockers

Lost manuals can be downloaded; by brand and type of locker on the above link.


Replacement of the blades and the light are described in the manual. Please always switch off the lock machine first! Replacing the blades is a job that you will not have to do often. The blades are razor sharp and have a long service life.

ALWAYS buy an extra set of blades for the locker. It happens very often that you accidentally locked a pin and no matter how fast Matri is with delivery time, you still have to wait another day for a new knife. This extra purchase is a necessary part of your locker adventure.

Concluding
  • The Lewenstein 700de is a basic but excellent overlocker.
  • The free-arm option is ideal.
  • Threading the threads is not easy, but it can be done.
  • The lock machine is robust and suitable for a beginner.
  • The price-quality is good. If you want to do more with the overlocker, the extra foot-set is recommended, as is the book Sewing with the lock machine from Julia Hicks. This book provides inspiring ideas to loverlock forever!
  • Using a overlock next to a sewing machine will enable you to give your designs a neat and professional appearance.
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  • Sewing Patterns
    • Sewing Patterns by number
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    • Cosplay, LARP & Fantasy
    • Oktoberfest - Dirndl
  • Chanel-Style
    • Authentic versus Fake Chanel jackets
    • Chanel Cardigan or Jacket ?
    • Video's about Chanel
    • Video's Chanel catwalk collections
  • Book Reviews
    • Couture and Chanel books
    • (Couture) Sewing Books
    • Valuable sewing books
    • Sewing magazines Specials
  • Sewing Guide
    • Sewing a Chanel Style Jacket VIDEOS
    • Bags are beauties
    • DIY Outdoor Stuff!
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Fantastic Fabrics
    • Sustainable ideas
    • LARP & Cosplay