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How to make a 'Chanel-Style' jacket


All about the Chanel-jacket, creating your own Chanel-Style jacket,
couture book reviews and products reviews*

* We are non-profit website

How to make a Chanel-Style jacket: Video 5

12/1/2023

 
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Letś continue the video-series of Elena Tran. The Chanel-Style Jacket is famous. Very famous.  Therefore we publish a great series of Videos. Elena of Baudekin Studio is showing us step-by-step how we can make the famous jacket ourselves.

Let start: Part 5: The Patch Pockets

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Long, cozy and super warm!

26/11/2022

 
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Speaking of warm clothes: how about a body warmer or vest that is very cheap and easy to make?
A vest which gives you a lot of freedom of movement, and which looks stylish and is very warm due to the quilted lining? Oh yes, and also: a free sewing pattern!

If something sounds too good to be true, then - on this website - it really is! A detailed description with photos make it a piece of cake for you to make this long vest/bodywarmer yourself.



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How to make a Chanel-Style jacket Video Tutorials!

31/10/2022

 
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We are VERY happy with the perfect and inspiring tutorials of Baudekin Studio. In a series of video's you will receive instructions on how to make the jacket yourself. The Chanel-Style jacket is the classic Chanel-jacket. 


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How to sew a Chanel-Style Denim blouse

18/9/2022

 
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How to sew a Chanel-Style Denim blouse.  We have made a denim blouse and used a very nice and easy Mc Call's sewing pattern.  The blouse is a classic and absolutely fantastic to wear.  Last but not least: the blouse is ideal to combine with every style.  Casual, classic, country-wear or business-look. Every style is possible.

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Comfortable clothes for hospital stay - part 3

10/8/2022

 
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No one likes to think about it... but it can happen that you are suddenly admitted to the hospital. Or it is planned and you know that you will stay there for a few days or even longer. What kind of clothes do you bring?

The hospital's instructions advises: easy-fitting clothing, but that doesn't always mean that sweatpants and t-shirts are useful. These can also be warm and stuffy or difficult to put on and take off.

This blog is divided into three parts and appeared on Budgetsttoffen blog. With knowledge and experience, an 'outfit' has been put together that will be pleasant for a patient. Not only to wear, but also to feel comfortable when you get visitors or are allowed to walk around.

Part 3 and last part of the series: The Bathrobe

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A classy blouse of fabric leftovers

25/5/2022

 
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Would you like to make a classy blouse from fabric leftovers? That is possible! Usually the processing of remnants of fabric is reduced to patchwork and this rarely has a chic look. This is because the fabrics do not always match in terms of color or structure. Sewing a classy or classic blouse is a challenge and also a lot of fun. The blouse will be unique, completely your own taste and it gives a good feeling to be sustainable and environmentally conscious.

You can read tips & tricks in this blog:


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Victorian Corset DIY

16/3/2022

 
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We are enjoying the Netflix-series Bridgerton with all those beautiful Victorian clothes and corsets, you too? The Victorian era continues to intrigue us. Such a luxurious and unique clothes! Hoop skirts, gigantic hats, dresses in as many as three layers and corsets on top and underneath. Beautiful to see, but a mystery how women could wear these clothes all day...

Corsets are very popular. This is because there is a large group of people who like going to the Fantasy Fairs, or who like the subcultures like Steampunk and Gothic. And of course also the Medieval variant such as L.A.R.P., or Comic hero-based Cosplay. During these events, corsets often play a major role.

As a seamstress it is a lot of fun to make a corset. How do you sew a Victorian corset? We will show it in detail.


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Valentine’s Day gift: a padded scarf

7/2/2022

 
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Do you want to make something beautiful for Valentine's Day? A padded or puffed scarf is a greaty choice. A padded scarf is the must-have for this winter and easy to make yourself.

This Valentin's Red scarf has a zipper pocket as you see a lot on the padded scarves of the Big names- fashion brands. It gives the scarf something extra.  It's an another nice reason to add this zipper pouch especially in case the scarf becomes a Valentine's Day gift!  Simply because you can put something into it: a card, a giftcard, a heart or some money.



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The kitchen princess & Spoonflower

14/1/2022

 
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Once upon a time there was a kitchen princess who wanted a special kitchen apron. She wanted an exclusive lady-like apron. No problem because:

Spoonflower has a beautiful fabric that you could even wear to a gala
KNIP-Mode has  a beautiful sewing pattern for a kitchen apron with many extras

and after some magic with the sewing machine, a kitchen apron, an oven glove and a tea towel was created for the kitchen princess, which met all her wishes.



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Sewing the Grace Kelly Style

16/12/2021

 
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Grace Patricia Kelly ((November 12, 1929 – September 14, 1982) was an American actress who married Prince Rainer III of Monaco in 1956. She died at age 52 of a fatal car accident in 1982. Grace Kelly is an icon to this day because of its style, which is characterized by elegance and timeless class.

Hèrmes even named a handbag after her: The Kelly Bag. The bag is extremely expensive, has waiting lists for potential buyers and, like Grace Kelly, is 'sophisticated' in every little detail.

Do you want to be as stylish as Grace Kelly? That seems almost impossible, but it is certainly not. There are many sewing patterns available that work well with the Kelly-Style. We have made an overview.

In a world of Kardashians,
be a Grace Kelly!


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How to recognize authentic Chanel Buttons?

3/11/2021

 
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It will be bloody perfect to use real Vintage Chanel buttons for your DIY couture-garment. But how to recognize these beautiful buttons-jewels? 'Buttons-jewels' says it all: most real authentic Chanel buttons are really jewels !

Read all about these beauties:


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Bouclé and Tweeds as summer fabrics

7/8/2021

 
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With the fabric types such as Bouclé and Tweeds you might think of thick, warm, wool-like fabrics for the winter. But there is more to it. The fabrics can also be very suitable for summer. Especially if there are a cotton mix and the colors have a summery look. We love it!

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Does a fabric says it all?

4/8/2021

 
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When you buy a fabric, you always immediately think of a certain style. This is because it is not only the garment that determines the style, but the kind of fabric says it all. For example, a dress in a leather look normally has a completely different look than the same dress in a linen floral fabric.

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How to create the 'Chanel-style'

27/7/2021

 
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THE CHANEL STYLE is very recognizable, but it is less defined as well. Previously, the association with the "Chanel" brand was mainly a a perfect picture and an identical style. Nowadays the style is less conservative and sleek. The basic elements are still present, but there is much more interpretation for individual interpretation.

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'Everyday Style' by Lotta Jansdotter

23/5/2021

 
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"Everyday style" by Lotta Jansdotter is an English book with photography by Jenny Hallengren. It is a book about accessories, styling and inspiration and offers eight sewing patterns. The book is ideal for seamstress who like a simple and honest (life-) style.

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Christy Dawn for inspiration

18/5/2021

 
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Sustainability is very important to us, and we were very happy to receive a nice tip from a reader. "Have you heard of Christy Dawn?" No, we didn't have...  but we wanted to know more about this new clothing brand. It claims to respect the environment and even to contribute to improve the ecosystem. Let's talk about Christy Dawn!

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Budget Chanel-style jacket!

12/5/2021

 
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Authentic couture Chanel jackets are priceless. This is not surprising because they are exclusively tailor-made for the rich and famous. Making a Chanel-style jacket yourself is a dream for many seamstresses. However, this is not cheap either because the Bouclé and Tweed fabrics are often expensive. But we have managed to make  a 'BUDGET Chanel-style jacket'  for inspiration!

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Marfy Spring 2021 trends

13/4/2021

 
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Comfy maxi shirts, extra wide sleeves, flared pants, sporty jackets and more.... We love the Marfy sewing patterns from Italy. Especially the trends for Spring 2021.  We got the newsletter by email and want to share it with our readers.

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Warm winter coats, let's start sewing!

4/2/2021

 
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Nice, thick, warm winter coats ... All of a sudden we need them anyway. Yess! It seems a bit too late in the season to start sewing a coat.... But it is possible. Sewing a DIY-winter coat  seems like a lot of work but  that is not true! We will help you to make a good choice in terms of sewing pattern. Let's start sewing!

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Vogue V8333, a tailor-made jacket

4/2/2021

 
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In a documentary about the late British fashion designer Alexander McQueen (1969-2010), we noticed how the top designer learned his famous couture techniques by practicing,  for years, on making the perfect blazer. Or rather: 'men suits'. It is a craftsmanship to make a good tailor-made suit and only when you have mastered it, you know how Haute couture really works.

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How to make hats & caps

28/1/2021

 
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Gabrielle Chanel once started her career designing hats. Women were wearing ankle-length dresses and tight corsets and large, lavish hats. She drastically changed both the women's clothing and the hats. Women could look beautiful and elegant, according to her, without all those big dresses and hats. Her motto: women should be able to move, look classy, elegant with 'simple' designs.

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How to sew a waxcoat

17/1/2021

 
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You either love it or hate it: wax coats. But a fact is: wax coats have been worn for years by enthusiasts such as hunters, nature lovers, farmers, fishermen and horse people. Wax coats are functional and truly timeless classics. They are very comfortable, water-repellent and are very strong.

'Do they know bad weather'
Wax coats are originally from England, Ireland and Scotland. "Do they know bad weather" used to be a slogan of a well-known brand for a long time. Because wax coats are made of cotton with a special wax coat, they are water-repellent and also dirt-repellent. Wax coats are extremely strong and durable. This is also especially useful when  you are a hunter, a nature lover or a horserider and you travel through the woods. A bush, thorny plant or a tree will not cause any damage. Most wax coats are very strong and they last for years.

Timeless, cool and beautiful
Wax clothing is ideal for many outdoor activities and outdoor sports. In addition, wearing a wax coat is a kind of lifestyle, sometimes also called: 'The English style'. It's chic, cool and tasteful. The colors are often brown, green, beige or navy and have checked linings. The coats can be made of real waxed cotton, but also of more modern fabrics that you do not have to wax.

Wax coats must be well maintained by re-lubricating the outside with wax or spraying once in a while. Please do not forget to use the waxspray outside and at a good distance. Make sure the jacket is clean first, by going over it with a soft brush. Wax coats are rarely washed, often it is not necessary because they breathe much better than real waterproof clothing and by traditionally wearing a sweater or cotton shirt / blouse underneath, the lining will not get wet with sweat itself.

Wearing a wax coat can initially be experienced as cold. But you warm up soon and feel wonderfully warm for a long time. For the real winter there are often extra linings for sale, which you can attach to the wax jacket by means of zippers or buttons. The unlined wax coats are ideal for fall and spring. The lined jackets are there for the winter and the extra linings are there for the really cold days.

Short or long wax coats
It seems as if there are only two models on the market: short or very long. In reality there are more variations in length, but short or long are indeed the most common models. Long wax coats are ideal to also protect your legs and the saddle when you are horseriding. Short wax coats offer more freedom of movement.

The prices of wax coats varies greatly and is highly brand dependent. Some wax coats are offered for less than a hundred euros, but if you want one of a well-known brand, you will pay a fortune. This is also because the jackets are often very complete and offer many extras. Lots of pockets, compartments, options and detachable parts.

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Make your own wax coat
Can you make a wax coat yourself? Yes, you can, but there are few sewing patterns for a real wax coat. In our opinion, these three sewing patterns are best suited for making a wax coat. We looked at the possibility of making the jacket from canvas or waxed cotton, a clear and simple model and the possibilities to expand the jacket itself with extra pockets, hood etc. Specific sewing patterns for wax coats cannot be found. But a sewing pattern for a sturdy outdoor jacket can already be enough to use as a basis.

If you already have a wax coat that is heavily worn and 'off-duty', you can also tear it apart and use it as a sewing pattern. You can even adjust it or use parts that are not worn out. Think of pockets, inner pockets, maybe the cuffs and / or the hood.

We like Simplicity 59052 the most. The Simplicity pattern is extensive and very suitable for making a wax coat. Especially Model B. looks very good as the basis for a long wax coat. Make the jacket at least 20 cm. longer.

It's a fit 1011 is a nice simple raincoat and if you make it a lot shorter, place straight pockets on it and choose a metal two-way zipper, you will also come close to a wax jacket. The model requires some adjustments but is fine as a basis.

Burda 6360 (Model A) is more of a parka-like jacket because of the drawstring at the waist. But if you omit this, it also seems like a nice basis for a wax coat. The pockets in particular are well placed and sleeves, which consist of two parts, will fit nicely and allow plenty of freedom of movement.

Simplicity 59052
Burda 6360
It's a fit 1011
Fabrics:
Try to buy a real  waxed cotton / canvas. However, it is difficult to obtain and sometimes too thick and stiff to sew. At Böttger we found a beautiful black waxed canvas.

You can also buy canvas, make the coat and apply the wax coat-layer later on, by waxing the jacket completely by hand, or hanging it up, outside and spraying it. Do this in the open air, and preferably two thin layers than one thick layer. You can buy wax everywhere, sometimes even at shoe stores, Bol.com or in outdoor stores.

A third option is to buy a fabric that is truly waterproof. Such as a good nylon or polyester fabric. However, we do not recommend this. The charm of a wax coat (and the comfort) is really that it is a wax coat and not a waterproof raincoat. You stay warm and you don't get wet with sweat, which is often the case with waterproof jackets, even though they claim to be 'breathable'.

zwart canvas katoen met waterafstotende coating te koop bij Böttger
mos zwart geruit zuiver wol Shetland tweed te koop bij Böttger
rood groen zuiver wol tartan ruit italiaans import te koop bij Böttger
Lining-fabrics:
If you are sewing a wax coat for the in-between seasons (spring and fall) then a 100% cotton lining is recommended. If you really want to go for the English style, choose a lining with a tartan design. This is available from Böttger fabrics. If you are going to make a wax coat for the winter, choose a 100% wool lining. At Böttger we found a beautiful woolen fabric, see above, middle photo. These are fabrics that you can fall in love with because of the quality, the timeless design and also the high wearing comfort.
Tip: buy a 35 cm. extra so you can make a scarf out of it. Super chic!

Colors:
Waxcoats are normally close to the colors of nature: green, army green, moss green, dark brown, light brown, beige and liver-colored. But wax coats are also beautiful in dark blue (navy), black or even bright red. Traditionally, the lining is best in tartan designs. These are often sober in color but can also pop in red tones, bright blue and yellow stripes. We found the following canvas fabrics at Budget fabrics:

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What else do you need to think about?
A wax coat looks simple but often has many options. For instance: then there is an extra loop for a dog whistle. You can of course also use this to hang a shopping cart coin, or a mouth cap:>) Anyway, a wax coat is a coat that you can use without a bag because of the many pockets and hidden pockets.

Tips you can think of to perfect your wax coat:
  • Sew as many pockets as possible on the outside front of the wax coat. Most pockets on wax coats are elongated to square. With some brands, the flaps of the bags are a bit chilly. Border it with imitation leather bias tape.
  • Sew as many inner pockets as possible into the lining.
  • Do not use buttons, but jeans press studs that can take a beating.
  • The zipper will be not cheap: only buy a stainless steel zipper that is metal and opens at the bottom. This is due to freedom of movement and the appearance of the wax coat.
  • Make side splits in the seam of the front and back piece. This is ok to create as much freedom of movement as possible.  The splits should  be closed with a push button.
  • If you are going for a model with a hood, try making the hood detachable. This will not be easy but nice for days when you really don't need the hood.
  • Make cuffs on the sleeve lining. This is not only nice to wear but also keeps you extra warm.
  • Long wax coats often have a shoulder cape that you can optionally remove. These are not difficult to sew. If you can't figure it out without a sewing pattern, you can search the Internet for 'sewing a cape' and adjust it in length. You also put on straps that go under the arms and sew press studs on it so that the cape is secured at the top in the neck.
  • The collars are often made of corduroy. However, imitation leather also looks very nice.
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Facts:
Long wax coats have very long splits at the back and there are straps at the bottom of the jacket, which you can put around your legs. This is because riders are wearing the jacket and the spindle gives room to hang over the saddle. The straps are to ensure that the front panels remain over the rider's legs and do not slide to the side.

Short wax coats sometimes have two zippers in the back where there is a long space, lined with nylon that runs behind the coat, as it were. The purpose of this extra space was for hunters to put in shot prey and to keep your hands free.

The older the wax coat the better...!

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Why would you make a wax coat yourself?
But why would you make a wax coat yourself, a reader recently asked. The reasons are very simple.

Firstly, (brand) wax coats are really very expensive. Buying all the materials yourself (fabric, lining, closures, zippers, and cuffs), however expensive, are still a fraction of the real price you pay for a good wax coat.

A second reason is that wax coats are often 'annoying' in terms of sizes. If you think you are buying a tight jacket with a size M, it turns out that you fit in it twice. But if you buy a size S, you can barely move in it. And then we are not talking about the brands of which it is better to buy an XL than a size M. In addition, the size also strongly depends on what you are going to wear underneath. Do you want a thick turtleneck sweater underneath or do you prefer a tight ski pullover? If you buy the wax coat online or second-hand on the marketplace, it remains a big gamble in terms of size. Making a wax coat yourself can save you a lot of frustration and you can fit, fit and (adjust) again in the meantime.

A third reason, wax coats are often very standard in color and shape. If you make a wax coat yourself, you can, so to speak, make a flower lining in it or choose a bright color for the outside. You can make the jacket unique and very personal.

Last but not least: why not? If you have the skills to sew a 'Chanel style' jacket, a wedding dress or a complicated Cosplay costume... a wax coat will be the  next challenge!

GOOD LUCK!

'Bridgerton' and dressing up!

12/1/2021

 
Bridgerton is an American drama series created by Chris Van Dusen and produced by Shonda Rhimes and is on Netflix since December 2020. It is based on Julia Quinn's novels. It takes place around 1813 in the competitive world of Regency London at the debutante ball: regency dresses, gloves and umbrellas. Daughters of aristocratic backgrounds make their debut in the hope of securing a suitable marriage partner.

Totally new!
But Bridgerton is not just a costume drama as we have seen in the past such as Downton Abbey, Amadeus, The King's speech, The remains of the day and Pride & Prejudice. Bridgerton is innovative in terms of casting. The cast is multi-cultural and it fits perfectly into the story.

In addition, we all enjoy Bridgerton exactly at the right moment. We are in a dark time because of the Pandemic and most people have been living in their hoodies and sweatpants for months. And suddenly there is a delightful series in which the costumes look dramatically large, extremely beautiful and almost unreal.

Run-away-bride?
We cannot run from a Pandemic, in fact, we are all trapped in our home or our limited work-related-circle or 'social bubble'. We have to get the Pandemic under control and prevent it from spreading around. Of course, everyone knows it won't last forever, even though it feels like it.  But we can escape and enjoy our digital life,  a good book or great movies and  series. Like Bridgerton!

Costumes and dressing up big time!
The life at Bridgerton's is so different that it seems almost unreal. Beautiful settings, people and even better: the costumes and accessories. While we are walking in the streets with masks and plastic gloves, the Bridgerton artistocracy walks with umbrellas, mega dresses (with crinoline cages underneath), hats and long, flawless white or lace gloves.

When was the last time we dressed up so chic, or did we do our very best to look neat and clean? It seems a long time ago.... The twenties of this century, so far, do not look like  'the roaring twenties' (of the last century) at all....

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Dressing up, in dark times
In this corona crisis, is hardly applicable anymore. Why should we? Many people opt for convenience and comfort. But dressing up also has to do with joie de vivre, self-confidence, self-esteem and ambition.

As we wrote in: Living in a bubble, we now live and work digitally, but we are definitely seen. Behind the screen during Facetime conversations, by means of selfies for Instagram or during meetings on Zoom. A nice blouse with a bow or brooch, or a homemade Chanel-style jacket, shows a different attitude than a sweater or hoodie with a just-out-of-bed hairstyle.

Read more: Dressing up or dressing down

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Bridgerton as inspiration
But for now, fortunately, we have Bridgerton to escape from the abnormally-normal now-a-days world.  We live  in our comfortable - dressing down clothes for months.... And while we are enjoying ourselves watching the innovative costume drama, why not make something ourselves? Just for fun, or for the future (party)?

Our suggestions for you to get creative:
  • Join the challenge of making a Crinoline cage.
  • Try making a beautiful Victorian blouse with puff sleeves
  • Upcycling: from shirt to special Chanel-style blouse
  • Or start making Victorian-style clothing
  • Or a blouse with beautiful ruffles and large sleeves

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Summarized:
While we are enjoying the Netflix series Bridgerton and the beautiful costumes, we realize once again how we are live during the Pandemic and lockdown(s).  We hardly make any effort to look good. Comfort is more important than chic, and that is of course practical. Dressing down is also part of life and has become almost standard in this corona time ...

But 'Dressing up' says a lot about you as a person and is always possible. Use the beautiful series as inspiration and make something beautiful for yourself, for now or later. We won't be walking down the street in crinolines or mega costumes, but sometimes it's not just about the result, but also about the feeling and of course the challenge of the sewing process!

Simplicity 1562, a stylish 'homewear' coat

28/12/2020

 
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At this time of the year it is always nice to have those comfortable jackets or cardigans you can quickly put on. Just in case you have to go out of the door. Or in case you need an extra layer in the house. We have made a stylish coat that is slightly different from a bathrobe, but is not a real coat either.

Bathrobe or real coat?
You could walk around all day in a bathrobe. Especially if it is made of lovely soft terry cloth, like our bathrobes in this blog of the sewing pattern Simplicity 1562. This sewing pattern is for a bathrobe. But the pattern is just as useful for a bathrobe with more of the look of a regular coat. The only difference is that there is no lining, pockets, inner pockets, zippers, buttons etc. Nevertheless, it is an ideal sewing pattern for a nice jacket that is very comfortable. Bet this will be a favorite piece of your wardrobe or a CLASSIC!

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Our inspiration
For this inner and/or outer jacket we were inspired by the many coats we saw on catwalks for the autumn and winter season. Coats were mainly worn as an extra layer and as a wrap. Wide, long coats for a complete outfit. In terms of style: big collars, shawl collars and often in a simple, classic shape. Wide, comfortable and quite casual. Jackets to 'live' in both indoors or outdoors.

The Pied-de-poule or Houndstooth design is also very fashionable this year and a timeless classic anyway. But we looked more at checkered designs because Pied-de-poule is a design that you have to love. Most people quickly find it too busy or a bit old-fashioned.

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Comfort and class
This coat is therefore a combination of a bathrobe in a warm woolen fabric. The color is easy. Black and white is always good and stylish. This fabric is for sale at Budgetstoffen and cheap. With two meters of fabric you have enough fabric to make the coat.

Because the fabric is quite stiff, you don't need interlining or reinforcement. The shawl collar makes the jacket very pleasant to wear and is ideal to wear over other clothes. Whether you wear a shirt, a sweater with a roll collar or a bare neck, a shawl collar is always a good idea. The jacket closes with a simple belt. You can also wear the jacket open, but the wrap over makes the jacket nice and warm and pleasant. A lot of 'homewear' is loose hanging and the front panels often do not close. This is easy but not warm or comfortable like this jacket is.

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Sewing pattern Simplicity 1562:

In terms of sizes you can clearly choose between children and adults and then also in sizes XS to XL. We recommend to take a large size so that the jacket is nice and spacious.

Simplicity 1562: Sewing level
The sewing pattern is easy to make. It is an 'Easy' sewing pattern and you can rest assured that even a total beginner can handle it. The fabric sews easily because it is not too thick, but certainly not too thin. We do recommend finishing the seams with a lock machine or a zigzag stitch. The fabric is unfortunately too thick for a French seam.

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Summarized:
Do you want to make a nice jacket for indoors and outdoors? Then consider the Simplicity 1562 sewing pattern for a bathrobe. This sounds strange, but it is certainly not. You can make exactly the coat you want from beautiful woolen fabric.

Not really a coat, not even a bathrobe or a cardigan, but a wonderfully comfortable 'coat' for the winter. A jacket that is stylish enough for walking outside, but comfortable and handy enough to wear indoors instead of a bathrobe or hoody.

The jacket is easy to make and with the beautiful wool fabric from Budget fabrics you are also affordable.

A long Chanel-style jacket or a coat?

16/11/2020

 
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A short jacket, a half-long jacket or a really very long jacket. You might think turning a short jacket into a long jacket is not thát difficult. Extend the fabric and you have the same jacket but then longer. But it is a bigger deal...

Long coat = other function
A long jacket has a completely different function. Long coats are usually meant to be worn over clothing to go outside. Hey, hey, doesn't everyone know that? That's right, but sometimes ugly mistakes are made in the sewing world. More spacious and wider Jackets are often underestimated in terms of sewing techniques. Sewing patterns are taken a little less seriously when it comes to long coats. Many seamstresses who have often made a long jacket, know that sewing a long jacket is just as meticulous work as making a short jacket. And that making a long jacket is not that simple at all. How often did we experience a long jacket is 'just not right'? Sadly, too many times.

A coat or a long jacket?
A coat always refers to an outer jacket. Usually it is a long classic model made of wool, loden or tweed. An outdoor jacket is more like a sporty (long) jacket made of waterproof fabrics, or a quilted jacket with a hood. In the sewing world, people talk about coats or simply: jackets. The shorter (Chanel style) jackets are often categorized with blazers or 'jackets'. Often it is confusing but follow the golden rule that coats are the outer coats and 'jackets' often the inner jackets.

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How to sew longer coats or jackets?
Sometimes we notice that our project turned out to be a failure: the lining is incorrect, the shoulders are too wide and the jacket only fits well with a very thin t-shirt underneath. But unfortunately that was not the intention. Did we forgot about the instructions on the sewing pattern? Or are the fabrics just not suitable? We would like to point out that making a long jacket requires just as much love, knowledge and experience as making a short jacket. Maybe even more, because after all, you work with a lot of fabrics and materials.

A longer jacket in Chanel style? Is that possible? Yes indeed. A long bouclé or tweed jacket with a quilted lining is heavenly and you really want to wear it all year round. So nice and warm, so comfortable! It is quite a job but the reuslt will be: a piece of pure Haute couture.

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Sewing patterns
If you want to make a longer Chanel-Style jacket, make sure you search for 'jackets'. Not on 'coats' or 'outdoor jackets'. If you really want to make a coat out of Tweed fabric or Bouclé to wear outside and over your clothes, look for 'cloaks' or 'coats'.

Please note: a nice long coat made of those fabrics is quite fragile and not durable. If you get caught on a splinter, a door handle or something else, the threads will easily tear out. A wolen coat is just as chic, slightly less 'Chanel-style' but stronger. Although this fabric is certainly not durable. And for all chic coatsmake sure to have an umbrella because the fabrics do not like rain and wind.

Suitable patterns for longer Chanel-style jackets:
  • Vogue V7860
  • Burda 6248
  • Vogue V9247
  • Vogue 1717 (review to follow in Dec 2020)
  • Knipmode 1120-10 (review will follow in Dec 2020)

Beautiful long classic coats that are suitable for Tweeds, Bouclé or Loden:
  • Burda 6462 and 6385
  • Butterick 6720 and 6385
  • Vogue V 1562
  • Simplicity 9187
  • NewLook 6585
  • McCalls 8013
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Tips & Tricks:
  • Follow the sewing pattern just as closely as with a shorter jacket.
  • Determine in advance which length suits you best: just over your knees, calf length or a really long coat.
  • Also set the goal: a longer jacket is not useful if you have to drive or travel. A three-quarter jacket often offers more freedom of movement and convenience.
  • Hemming: this is an accurate work. The liner should not pull or hang out from under it. If necessary, watch videos on Youtube to learn it extra well.
  • Buy extra fabric: this is useful in case you decide to have large pockets on the jacket or an extra belt.
  • Choose a lining with a print or a contrasting color. This often gives a couture look.
  • The lining often determines whether a jacket is comfortable to wear or not: do not see the release of lining fabric as a final item, but as just as important as the outer fabric
  • Always hang a jacket on a clothes hanger and not on the loop. This keeps the jacket in better shape. How do you teach yourself this discipline? Simply by not sewing a loop in it: P

Additional options for advanced seamstresses:
If you want to make a longer jacket in 'Chanel-Style', consider quilting the lining on the outer fabric. Follow Claure Shaeffer's instructions from her book: 'The couture cardigan jacket' and you have a beautiful long Chanel jacket that wears and looks heavenly. It may be a lot of work but well worth it. Especially if you choose a Bouclé fabric that is very light or loose-fitting, sewing the lining to it is a good idea. It gives the jacket more strength and shape.

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In summary:
A longer Chanel-style jacket is completely different from a jacket in Bouclé or tweeds, see photo above. Both are chic, beautiful, timeless but take a little more time to make.

Read carefully which recommended fabrics are on the sewing patterns. Choose the fabric ánd lining carefully, it will be the difference between a great result or a failed project.

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