Why does a seamstress need a sewing mannequin?
Is it really such a great product?
Is it really necessary to have your own sewing mannequin? YES!
A sewing mannequin is THE best friend of a seamstress! We do not mean: mannequins such as the mannequins on display in fashion stores, but adjustable mannequins. These are indispensable to make tailor-made clothing!
There are many types and sizes for sale on the market. It is difficult for a beginner- seamstress to make a good choice. Most mannequins look a bit overwhelming. Do you really need the accessories and do you really need to have so many options in terms of size settings?
Too many choices?
Which mannequin is your best-buy? What is important to notice and how do you know the difference between a good mannequin and a less good mannequin? It is important to think carefully before you are going to buy the mannequin. Do you sew clothes exclusively for yourself or for customers?
Time-saver and a critical eye
A sewing mannequin is a handy tool, not only because it will save many fitting sessions (=time and money), but also because you can continuously fit the clothing.
Viewing the mannequin from a distance, ensures your critically eye at the clothing. Moreover, it is a lot more convenient to pin off clothing. In particular, consider the benefits of tailoring the back nicely. No matter how creative and lean you are; it has never been possible for a seamstress to fit the in front of a mirror ....
We have made an overview with points for attention:
Facts and stories
A sewing mannequin (also called a manikin, dummy, lay figure or dress form) is an often articulated doll used by artists, tailors, dressmakers, window dressers and others especially to display or fit clothing.
If you need help marking hems or particular skirts; a sewing mannequin is the best help you can get.
Also if you sew for clients: a mannequin is perfect to fit the clothes every time needed. Most mannequins have several sizes-options, sometimes even 8 or more.
'No-body' has the perfect body; sewing mannequins are a great help for fitting clothes on bodies which are not-standard sizes.
While these forms generally have a much higher price tag (usually between $100and $1,000), their features and longevity significantly outweigh those of the standard display versions.
For one, professional dress forms feature more accurate proportions and are available in a variety of sizes.
Fashion designers sometimes use a technique called draping when designing and sewing garments. Basically, it involves draping fabric around a dress form and pinning it into the desired shape.
Retailers use various techniques to display their products so as to attract the potential buyers. Mannequins, help the retailers to draw the customers to their stores. ...
They are important tools of retail business.
They first communicate with the customers through visual merchandising.
Every Couture-house owns a lot of sewing mannequins and some sewing mannequins are even labelled and exclusively for important clients.
If the client gain weight, she has to inform the couture-house...
Guestwriter: Baudekin Studio
Silk is the most luxurious fabric that we can think of and despite various cheaper alternatives coming up on the market, nothing beats the real thing. The Haute couturiers often use silk suiting fabrics in their collections and fashion writers like to refer to these fabrics, like raw silk fabric, due to the fact that they often have a plain crisscross weave that looks too simple and the term ‘raw’ suddenly makes sense. But there is nothing raw about these fabrics because they went through a number of processing steps in order to achieve the sophisticated Givenchy-worthy look.
So, what is raw silk?
The silk noil and raw silk are often used interchangeably to refer to silk fabric with linen-like plain weave and slightly nubby texture. I wanted to find out more in order to understand the difference. Internet sources explain these two terms in different ways, hence the confusion. The meaning of something raw is being in or nearly in the natural state: not processed or purified, in other words, raw fibers (Merriam Webster).
Therefore, raw silk refers to silk yarns before any finishing processing is done, such as de-gumming, dyeing, breaking, steaming, pressing and lustring. (Clive Hallett) Think about raw silk as one of the ingredients that go into a soft, smooth and brilliant silk that you buy at the store. It’s like cocoa that goes into a chocolate bar.
Silk noil, on the other hand, is woven from the fibers (noils) that were left over after spinning silk which already went through some chemical and physical processes prior to spinning, such as de-gumming. So instead of discarding these remnants, they are collected and woven into a fabric with an interesting texture. This is an example of waste upcycling in the textile industry. Because noil fibers are shorter and weaker than regular silk fibers, this fabric doesn’t have that characteristic lustre although it still has a very subtle sheen.
The term ‘raw silk’ is often used when referring to silk noil because it looks unprocessed with its irregular texture. But noil silk is dyed, steamed, and pressed to give a resulting fabric that is appealing to fashion designers and consumers.
What is Matka silk?
Matka silk is an example of silk noil. It has a nubby texture that feels slightly dry and it has an elegant plain weave that looks like linen. The weight of the fabric varies from shirt weight to suiting which is also reflected in the prices. When you think of iconic Givenchy silk suits, this gorgeous fabric comes to mind.
Is tussah silk fabric the same as tasar silk?
Tussah and tasar silks are often used interchangeably. They only really differ in geography because the fibers used to spin these silk yarns are produced by the same type of wild silkworms. Tussah silk from China is produced by Antheraea pernyi silkworms which feed on oak leaves and it is a very common wild silk variety. The types of Chinese tussah silk used in couture are pongee, honan, dupioni and shantung. Because tussah can be easily dyed, you will find it in many different colours.
The Indian tasar silk is produced from wild Antheraea paphia silkworms which feed of various plants. (International Sericultural Commission) It has the same beautiful linen-like weave as tussah and similar slightly dominant weft. Natural colours of tasar silk range from cream to different shades of brown depending of the type of food the silkworms are feeding on. However, contemporary dying methods allow manufacturers to produce Tasar silk in many different colours.
Is ‘peace silk’ an example of raw silk?
A simple answer is no. Eri silk or endi silk is associated with ‘peace silk’ because the manufacturers claim that the silkworms are not destroyed in the process of making silk. (Clive Hallett). Eri silk is produced from Samia ricini silkworms which feed on castor plants (the word ‘eri’ literally means castor plant). (Mississipi State University) I am skeptical about ‘peace silk’ claims, but I am sure that there are producers trying to carve their niche in this specialty.
Finally, a few words about the most expensive silk in the world, muga silkIndian muga silk from the wild Antheraea assamensis silkworms is considered to be one of the most expensive silk fabrics, the gold of silks. It is only produced in Assam state in India. ‘Muga’ means amber (brown) colour, the colour of the cocoons (WildSilkbase). The natural colour of muga silk is dark gold, but it often bleached and dyed to supply brightly coloured fabrics for Indian sarees.
Clive Hallett, Amanda Johnston. Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd., 2014.
International Sericultural Commission. http://www.inserco.org/en/types_of_silk. n.d.
Merriam Webster. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/raw. n.d.
Mississipi State University. https://mississippientomologicalmuseum.org.msstate.edu/AnthroEnt/Textiles/Species/Antheraea_pernyi.html#.Xyx5N4hKjIU. n.d.
Silk Mark India. http://www.silkmarkindia.com/blog/?p=167. n.d.
WildSilkbase. http://www.cdfd.org.in/wildsilkbase/info_moths.php. n.d.
Gabrielle Chanel once started her career designing hats. Women were wearing ankle-length dresses and tight corsets and large, lavish hats. She drastically changed both the women's clothing and the hats. Women could look beautiful and elegant, according to her, without all those big dresses and hats. Her motto: women should be able to move, look classy, elegant with 'simple' designs.
Chanel's revolutionary approaches were taboo breaking and were received with open arms. Goodbye corsets, clumsy clothes and overly heavy lavish hats, Hello beautiful tweed suits and elegant little hats.
Making hats, a craftsmanship!
Now, making hats is of course an real profession. Especially if the hats are made of felt, straw or cardboard. As a semi-professional or hobby seamstress, you will not be able to create them easily. You also need specific tools. But it is not impossible to make hats and caps; choosing the right sewing pattern and fabrics will be key to do the job.
We have listed some tips & tricks for you. And sewing pattern reviews.
Make hats and caps? Yes, we can!
Why would you want to make a hat or a cap?
We have been asked that question once, but our answer is: why not? Hats and caps are like bags, caps, gloves and scarves. You can never really have enough of it. Moreover, it always looks extra neat and clean to wear a hat. It 'upgrades' an outfit completely.
But we have even more reasons:
1. Fabric leftovers? We are going to use them to make hats and caps. Zero waste is a great ideal for seamstresses who consider sustainability of paramount importance. Sometimes you can already manage to make a nice cap with very small pieces of fabric. And you don't need much fabric for a very nice chic hat. Half a yard of fabric leftovers? Enough to create a beautiful chic hat!
2. Making hats and caps is a lot of fun and a great creative process. It is not just sewing, but requires more techniques and insight with regard to shapes, shaping and sewing by hand. Of course it depends on what kind of fabric you are using to create the hats or caps. A cap with lining is very easy, a chic hat will demand more effort and sewing skills.
3. Decorate, embroidery, feathers and/or flowers. A hat may be decorated. A hat has extra appeal and even a cap is more fun with a decoration. Okay, okay, Coco Chanel wouldn't get excited about this, but we do like to pay extra attention to it. A hat with a flower, modest or over-done makes it much more personal and unique.
4. Finally: a hat or cap is a nice part of your outfit as you get older. In summer it will protect you from the sun, in winter from cold or rain. Don't think of 'an old lady with a hat' ... but it is a fact that hats and caps are a favorite item of women over 40. The hair is thinning, the scalp gets more sensitive.
Save your beautiful hair, your sensitive scalp and put on a hat or cap!
The first job
If you've never made a hat or cap before, start with simple sewing patterns and easy to use fabrics. We have tested and tried a few. Choose a model that appeals to you, but don't start too difficult. Build it up slowly, just like you do with clothes.
Kwik Sew K4107
Kwik Sew K4107 is an easy sewing pattern with four models of caps. Model A is great for hot summers. Fold the cap scarf and take it with you in your handbag. If the sun is burning, you always have the cap nearby. We have made this Model a few times from beautiful silk fabrics. Ideal and very easy. Moreover, a little 'Grace Kelly' style if you tie the scarf forward under your chin.
Model C and D are easy to make and great to wear. They are in fact slightly deeper than a baseball cap and do not look cool or vulgar, but chic and classy. Of course this depends on which fabric you make the caps. We recommend strong gabardine fabric, chic 'chains' fabric or even tweed and Bouclé.
The Vogue pattern seems to look more difficult to sew. The sewing pattern requires heavier fabrics such as wool blends, denim, canvas and suede or leather look. Still, the sewing patterns are easy to make and as a novice seamstress you will get there.
We made model F ourselves, see photos below. The model is asymmetrical and it is advisable to make a label or thread on the back, in the inside, so you will know the back-end and the hat will mold itself to your head. The other models are also feasible and look more difficult but are easy to sew. This is mainly due to the fabric used and the glamorous photo's.
A few days later we decided to sew the model A. as well, with lovely gobelin fabric. The hat is big and bright. The model is easy to make although it might look more difficult than it actually is.
Model F and model A are great hats and not so complicated to create, eventhough you have little sewing skills.
Vogue V8941 is a bit the same as V7460. The hats or caps are looking difficult but they are not thát difficult to create. It is possible, really!
They are made of tweed, wool blend and suede. Model B is totally super chic. The wool top overlayed with a lace fabric. In addition, the hats are adorned with bands, bows and buckles. It all looks perfect, but for a seamstress with average sewing experience; you can do the job!
Vogue V7464 is a sewing pattern for hats from the 30's and 40's.
There is no advice for the necessary sewing experience on all Vogue sewing patterns for hats. But you need a lot of sewing skills to create these hats.
The hats are made from silk, taffeta, felt, lace and tulle. You also need a lot of extras such as special filling, hat pins, stryofoam, tapes, edges and glue. A great challenge ! And absolutely wonderful, beautiful hats!
McCalls 2022 The Vault collection
Finally we would like to mention: McCalls The Vault Collection 2022. This number does not say anything about the coming year but is a number to indicate the historical and cosplay costume.
The sewing pattern is often not part of the regular accessories, but as mentioned under: historical costumes, vintage or Cosplay costumes.
The same applies to this sewing pattern as the Vogue 7464: it is a real challenge to create these hats! You also need several extras and the hats are made of: silk, taffeta, carpet fabric and brocade.
We have not yet tried them yet, but we will do so soon. Looking at the sewing descriptions, the McCalls 2022 seems to be a little bit easier to make.
Fabrics, notions and extra's:
To make hats and caps you often need extra fabrics you have never bought before. But not everything is difficult to find. You can go a long way with tulle, mesh fabric, horsehair lining and felt. You can buy these fabrics at any (online) fabric store. As well as hat pins (look at needles and pins) and buckles / closures. These are often the standard haberdashery that every store has in its assortment.
Foam and mesh: take a look at stores with upholstery fabrics.
Feathers, flowers, appliqué and fur can be found at party-stores or hobby- and craft stores. Also take a look at thrift stores. Sometimes you can find the most beautiful things here that at first seem old-fashioned, dusty and maybe even dirty. But take your appliqués, flowers, feathers off an old dress or hat, wash it carefully and you have got yourself something special.
More tips for this: How to find great items at a thrift store
Specialized sewing patterns
There are also sewing patterns brands specialized in making hats. You can find these under the accessories section of the sewing pattern store.
The Pattern Studio and specifically for Victorian clothing and accessories: Truly Victorian.
Making hats and caps is not only a lot of fun (and a challenge!) but you will also enjoy wearing them.
At first sight it seems difficult and almost impossible to create hats yourself. But if you start with simple caps and hats, you will soon notice it is actually easy peasy.
Do you have beautiful fabric leftovers and already a whole collection of toiletry bags, mobile cases and glasses cases? Let's start to sew a cap or hat and we bet you will like it a lot!
A lighthearted and elegant spirit animates the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection imagined by Virginie Viard. The film of the show was directed by photographer, filmmaker and graphic designer Anton Corbijn.
See more at https://www.chanel.com/-YT-HC_SS21
After you have made a garment, you want to show it to the outside world. Taking pictures for your Social Media, maybe for an online store or just for yourself. But how do you photograph your clothes in the best way? Many ways are passing by on the Internet.
We have some give tips and tricks for you!
Flat lay pictures:
Flat-lay pictures are photos of clothing or products which are lying flat on a table or on the floor. You will look up from above. This way of photographing clothes has great advantages because you can arrange the clothes exactly as you want. Various tutorials can be found on YouTube on how to do this best.
A disadvantage is the fact you do not see the clothes 'dressed'. It does not give a clear picture of the shape and as a viewer you may have to imagine how it will look in real life. The clothing is probably arranged in a way: making the sleeves appear narrower, creating a waist that is not there or making the entire garment look better than it actually is.
One of the reasons for taking flat-lay pictures is often the fact people don't want to be shown in the picture, for several reasons. For example because of privacy or because of the size of the garment. This way of presenting is also often popular because the photos are styled and look great.
Tip: add items that emphasize the clothing style to the pictures. A chic perfume bottle, a nice cup of coffee or a serious book. Jewelry or accessories. Styling the clothes in this way makes the photo more attractive for the viewers.
Detail photos are ideal to show if the garment has really specific or intricate details. This is especially important for seamstresses. Examples: sleeve ends, collars, slits or interesting buttons and pleats. Of course, the photos do not show the entire garment, but they are interesting to show to the outside world.
'The devil is in the detail'
Mannequin-photos are pictures taken by using the sewing mannequin or a shop window mannequin. That sounds easier than it is. It is not easy to make a good mannequin-photo. See photo above: the mannequin is not the right size and because of this, the jacket hangs limply on all sides and the jacket looks plump. A sewing doll has to be a bit correct in size.
You can adjust most sewing mannequins yourself, but a shop window mannequin often only has one size. On clothing websites, the clothes are often pinned and deformed until it fits nicely on the mannequin. That makes sense (see photo above) but not really the goal for a seamstress. After all, you want to show how the jacket turned out and without 'shaping' it for the photo.
If the details are invisible: zoom in and take extra photos! And of course: make sure you have a mannequin that is correct in terms of dimensions/sizes.
Clothing presentation on a person made of flesh and blood:
If you prefer not to choose a sewing of shop window mannequin but want to show the clothing yourself (or on another), make sure you look your best. Ask the amateur photographer to take the photos from a favorable angle; at a distance, not too close and preferably at sitting height. In this way it will not look like you are having tiny legs and the clothes will look better in proportion. You can still crop in height or width.
Take several photos and move around slowly. You can later choose the most favorable photo on which the clothes are the best (and you!) Complicated poses such as professional models often are doing is not necessary and might look a little bit 'over-done'.
A professional photo shoot:
You might consider to book a professional photographer for a photoshoot and make an appointment in his studio. If you have a budget for it and a lot of clothes ready for the photoshoot! The big advantage is the result: professional pictures and your website will upgrade in terms of appearance.
You don't have to be a professional model. A good photographer will give clear instructions and there is often a mirror in the studio so that you can see how your pose and the clothes at its best!
Professional photos are always edited. This does not mean that they will suddenly look unreal or artificial. As photo above: it is often mainly the light and contrast edited to make the photo look better.
In addition, some details of the clothes may be edited too.
Sometimes photos are edited in such a way that the background is replaced by a suitable background or a background that gives the photo extra allure. You can do this yourself with photo editing programs such as Photoshop or Gimp. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube and if you study them, you will get skills to change photos yourself.
An other advantage: you will be able to partially manipulate photos if, for example, you want to eliminate disturbing elements in the photo or add texts.
Presenting and photographing your selfmade clothing is quite a job. Everyone likes to do it in his or her own way and often makes a conscious choice. Presenting selfmade clothes doesn't have to look super professional and no one expects it to look like a catwalk.
Going to a professional photographer offers many benefits and is often well worth the money. But if this does not fit within your budget and objective, it is not a disaster. Seamstresses prefer to see each other's sewing process, the difficulties of the sewing project and the results.
Whether you choose flat-lay pictures, presentation on a sewing mannequin, photos taken by your partner or by a professional photographer, be proud of all your work!
Baudekin Studio: Have you always wanted to make a beautiful skirt, but you don't know where to start? In this video, I will share the first step of sewing a skirt for beginners. I will show you how to measure yourself for a skirt if you don't have a partner to help you.
This is the first tutorial in my 'Learn How to Sew series for beginners'. Have you always wanted to make a beautiful skirt, but you don't know where to start?
In this video, I will share the first step of sewing a skirt for beginners. I will show you how to measure yourself for a skirt if you don't have a partner to help you. We will go over five basic measurements: front and back waist, front and back hips and skirt length.
When looking for fabrics for a sewing project, I always check whether the relevant (online) store also has so-called 'chain' fabrics. I love them!
Chain, straps or cables
By 'chain' fabrics I mean fabrics that have a design print of chains, cables and / or belts. Often this is also combined with flowers, fringes or bits of horse bridles. The fabric often has no more than three shades and, despite the busy design, still looks calm and balanced. It does not consist of panels, which is often the case with digitally printed tricot fabrics, but the pattern does repeat itself. This is hardly visible.
Colors and shades
The colors are usually based on black, brown or beige. The shades are often coordinated but can also contain bright colors such as red or blue. The shade of gold predominates so that the fabric always has a luxurious look. I love them because of the luxurious glamorous look and the resemblance to 'Hermès' style.
Which search terms can you best use?
If you are looking for the fabric, it is often difficult because the design does not really has a name.
Most fabric stores use different names.
Let's create a 'chains' outfit!
You can of course make anything you want from chains fabrics, but pay attention to the type of fabric. It is quite different what the fabric is.
Below are some ideas:
Pay particular attention to whether the fabric has a stretch content or not and check the sewing pattern carefully to notice if these are recommended fabrics. You can make anything from leftovers fabrics: toiletry bags, glasses cases, laptop sleeves and bags.
Finally, I have some styling tips. The fabric is often busy with design and it is therefore better to adjust the rest of your outfit accordingly. You don't want it all to look 'over-done', to look like a hippy or look like a clown.
Therefore, pay attention to the following:
Read more: Dressing up or dressing down
Chains fabrics are beautiful! But sometimes hard to find at the fabric stores. If you spot a fabric, let us know, we will publish the link or your self-made clothes!
You either love it or hate it: wax coats. But a fact is: wax coats have been worn for years by enthusiasts such as hunters, nature lovers, farmers, fishermen and horse people. Wax coats are functional and truly timeless classics. They are very comfortable, water-repellent and are very strong.
'Do they know bad weather'
Wax coats are originally from England, Ireland and Scotland. "Do they know bad weather" used to be a slogan of a well-known brand for a long time. Because wax coats are made of cotton with a special wax coat, they are water-repellent and also dirt-repellent. Wax coats are extremely strong and durable. This is also especially useful when you are a hunter, a nature lover or a horserider and you travel through the woods. A bush, thorny plant or a tree will not cause any damage. Most wax coats are very strong and they last for years.
Timeless, cool and beautiful
Wax clothing is ideal for many outdoor activities and outdoor sports. In addition, wearing a wax coat is a kind of lifestyle, sometimes also called: 'The English style'. It's chic, cool and tasteful. The colors are often brown, green, beige or navy and have checked linings. The coats can be made of real waxed cotton, but also of more modern fabrics that you do not have to wax.
Wax coats must be well maintained by re-lubricating the outside with wax or spraying once in a while. Please do not forget to use the waxspray outside and at a good distance. Make sure the jacket is clean first, by going over it with a soft brush. Wax coats are rarely washed, often it is not necessary because they breathe much better than real waterproof clothing and by traditionally wearing a sweater or cotton shirt / blouse underneath, the lining will not get wet with sweat itself.
Wearing a wax coat can initially be experienced as cold. But you warm up soon and feel wonderfully warm for a long time. For the real winter there are often extra linings for sale, which you can attach to the wax jacket by means of zippers or buttons. The unlined wax coats are ideal for fall and spring. The lined jackets are there for the winter and the extra linings are there for the really cold days.
Short or long wax coats
It seems as if there are only two models on the market: short or very long. In reality there are more variations in length, but short or long are indeed the most common models. Long wax coats are ideal to also protect your legs and the saddle when you are horseriding. Short wax coats offer more freedom of movement.
The prices of wax coats varies greatly and is highly brand dependent. Some wax coats are offered for less than a hundred euros, but if you want one of a well-known brand, you will pay a fortune. This is also because the jackets are often very complete and offer many extras. Lots of pockets, compartments, options and detachable parts.
Make your own wax coat
Can you make a wax coat yourself? Yes, you can, but there are few sewing patterns for a real wax coat. In our opinion, these three sewing patterns are best suited for making a wax coat. We looked at the possibility of making the jacket from canvas or waxed cotton, a clear and simple model and the possibilities to expand the jacket itself with extra pockets, hood etc. Specific sewing patterns for wax coats cannot be found. But a sewing pattern for a sturdy outdoor jacket can already be enough to use as a basis.
If you already have a wax coat that is heavily worn and 'off-duty', you can also tear it apart and use it as a sewing pattern. You can even adjust it or use parts that are not worn out. Think of pockets, inner pockets, maybe the cuffs and / or the hood.
We like Simplicity 59052 the most. The Simplicity pattern is extensive and very suitable for making a wax coat. Especially Model B. looks very good as the basis for a long wax coat. Make the jacket at least 20 cm. longer.
It's a fit 1011 is a nice simple raincoat and if you make it a lot shorter, place straight pockets on it and choose a metal two-way zipper, you will also come close to a wax jacket. The model requires some adjustments but is fine as a basis.
Burda 6360 (Model A) is more of a parka-like jacket because of the drawstring at the waist. But if you omit this, it also seems like a nice basis for a wax coat. The pockets in particular are well placed and sleeves, which consist of two parts, will fit nicely and allow plenty of freedom of movement.
Try to buy a real waxed cotton / canvas. However, it is difficult to obtain and sometimes too thick and stiff to sew. At Böttger we found a beautiful black waxed canvas.
You can also buy canvas, make the coat and apply the wax coat-layer later on, by waxing the jacket completely by hand, or hanging it up, outside and spraying it. Do this in the open air, and preferably two thin layers than one thick layer. You can buy wax everywhere, sometimes even at shoe stores, Bol.com or in outdoor stores.
A third option is to buy a fabric that is truly waterproof. Such as a good nylon or polyester fabric. However, we do not recommend this. The charm of a wax coat (and the comfort) is really that it is a wax coat and not a waterproof raincoat. You stay warm and you don't get wet with sweat, which is often the case with waterproof jackets, even though they claim to be 'breathable'.
If you are sewing a wax coat for the in-between seasons (spring and fall) then a 100% cotton lining is recommended. If you really want to go for the English style, choose a lining with a tartan design. This is available from Böttger fabrics. If you are going to make a wax coat for the winter, choose a 100% wool lining. At Böttger we found a beautiful woolen fabric, see above, middle photo. These are fabrics that you can fall in love with because of the quality, the timeless design and also the high wearing comfort.
Tip: buy a 35 cm. extra so you can make a scarf out of it. Super chic!
Waxcoats are normally close to the colors of nature: green, army green, moss green, dark brown, light brown, beige and liver-colored. But wax coats are also beautiful in dark blue (navy), black or even bright red. Traditionally, the lining is best in tartan designs. These are often sober in color but can also pop in red tones, bright blue and yellow stripes. We found the following canvas fabrics at Budget fabrics:
What else do you need to think about?
A wax coat looks simple but often has many options. For instance: then there is an extra loop for a dog whistle. You can of course also use this to hang a shopping cart coin, or a mouth cap:>) Anyway, a wax coat is a coat that you can use without a bag because of the many pockets and hidden pockets.
Tips you can think of to perfect your wax coat:
Long wax coats have very long splits at the back and there are straps at the bottom of the jacket, which you can put around your legs. This is because riders are wearing the jacket and the spindle gives room to hang over the saddle. The straps are to ensure that the front panels remain over the rider's legs and do not slide to the side.
Short wax coats sometimes have two zippers in the back where there is a long space, lined with nylon that runs behind the coat, as it were. The purpose of this extra space was for hunters to put in shot prey and to keep your hands free.
The older the wax coat the better...!
Why would you make a wax coat yourself?
But why would you make a wax coat yourself, a reader recently asked. The reasons are very simple.
Firstly, (brand) wax coats are really very expensive. Buying all the materials yourself (fabric, lining, closures, zippers, and cuffs), however expensive, are still a fraction of the real price you pay for a good wax coat.
A second reason is that wax coats are often 'annoying' in terms of sizes. If you think you are buying a tight jacket with a size M, it turns out that you fit in it twice. But if you buy a size S, you can barely move in it. And then we are not talking about the brands of which it is better to buy an XL than a size M. In addition, the size also strongly depends on what you are going to wear underneath. Do you want a thick turtleneck sweater underneath or do you prefer a tight ski pullover? If you buy the wax coat online or second-hand on the marketplace, it remains a big gamble in terms of size. Making a wax coat yourself can save you a lot of frustration and you can fit, fit and (adjust) again in the meantime.
A third reason, wax coats are often very standard in color and shape. If you make a wax coat yourself, you can, so to speak, make a flower lining in it or choose a bright color for the outside. You can make the jacket unique and very personal.
Last but not least: why not? If you have the skills to sew a 'Chanel style' jacket, a wedding dress or a complicated Cosplay costume... a wax coat will be the next challenge!
Read more on Vogue:
Listen Up to “Chanel Connects,” a New Podcast Series Focused on Culture
Bridgerton is an American drama series created by Chris Van Dusen and produced by Shonda Rhimes and is on Netflix since December 2020. It is based on Julia Quinn's novels. It takes place around 1813 in the competitive world of Regency London at the debutante ball: regency dresses, gloves and umbrellas. Daughters of aristocratic backgrounds make their debut in the hope of securing a suitable marriage partner.
But Bridgerton is not just a costume drama as we have seen in the past such as Downton Abbey, Amadeus, The King's speech, The remains of the day and Pride & Prejudice. Bridgerton is innovative in terms of casting. The cast is multi-cultural and it fits perfectly into the story.
In addition, we all enjoy Bridgerton exactly at the right moment. We are in a dark time because of the Pandemic and most people have been living in their hoodies and sweatpants for months. And suddenly there is a delightful series in which the costumes look dramatically large, extremely beautiful and almost unreal.
We cannot run from a Pandemic, in fact, we are all trapped in our home or our limited work-related-circle or 'social bubble'. We have to get the Pandemic under control and prevent it from spreading around. Of course, everyone knows it won't last forever, even though it feels like it. But we can escape and enjoy our digital life, a good book or great movies and series. Like Bridgerton!
Costumes and dressing up big time!
The life at Bridgerton's is so different that it seems almost unreal. Beautiful settings, people and even better: the costumes and accessories. While we are walking in the streets with masks and plastic gloves, the Bridgerton artistocracy walks with umbrellas, mega dresses (with crinoline cages underneath), hats and long, flawless white or lace gloves.
When was the last time we dressed up so chic, or did we do our very best to look neat and clean? It seems a long time ago.... The twenties of this century, so far, do not look like 'the roaring twenties' (of the last century) at all....
Dressing up, in dark times
In this corona crisis, is hardly applicable anymore. Why should we? Many people opt for convenience and comfort. But dressing up also has to do with joie de vivre, self-confidence, self-esteem and ambition.
As we wrote in: Living in a bubble, we now live and work digitally, but we are definitely seen. Behind the screen during Facetime conversations, by means of selfies for Instagram or during meetings on Zoom. A nice blouse with a bow or brooch, or a homemade Chanel-style jacket, shows a different attitude than a sweater or hoodie with a just-out-of-bed hairstyle.
Read more: Dressing up or dressing down
Bridgerton as inspiration
But for now, fortunately, we have Bridgerton to escape from the abnormally-normal now-a-days world. We live in our comfortable - dressing down clothes for months.... And while we are enjoying ourselves watching the innovative costume drama, why not make something ourselves? Just for fun, or for the future (party)?
Our suggestions for you to get creative:
While we are enjoying the Netflix series Bridgerton and the beautiful costumes, we realize once again how we are live during the Pandemic and lockdown(s). We hardly make any effort to look good. Comfort is more important than chic, and that is of course practical. Dressing down is also part of life and has become almost standard in this corona time ...
But 'Dressing up' says a lot about you as a person and is always possible. Use the beautiful series as inspiration and make something beautiful for yourself, for now or later. We won't be walking down the street in crinolines or mega costumes, but sometimes it's not just about the result, but also about the feeling and of course the challenge of the sewing process!
Vogue V7860 is an old sewing pattern which almost looks like a vintage sewing pattern. But it is not a vintage sewing pattern at all. It is a great sewing pattern for making a classic Chanel jacket and easier than the same type of sewing pattern: Vogue 9095.
Vogue V7860 is a beautiful classic sewing pattern for a Chanel-style jacket with bands. The recommended fabrics are: Lightweight Tweeds, Lightweight Gabardine and Silk/Linen Blend. The sewing pattern also offers pants in two different lengths and a skirt. You can also make this sewing pattern in Bouclé fabrics, with bands made of the same fabric as the lining.
Coco Chanel often enjoyed this: use the silk lining on the outside of the jacket or make a blouse to wear underneath.
Vogue V7860 is an average sewing level pattern. We expect you can handle this with a little sewing experience. It is not a difficult sewing pattern and the bands around it are easy to make. The skirt and pants do not give any sewing problems either.
Our Chanel-style jacket:
We made the jacket from a Bouclé fabric and put a dark blue band around it. This in combination with a light green lining. We quilted the lining on the outside and deviated from the sewing pattern in that sense.
Read all about quilting liners to make an authentic Chanel style jacket: The Couture Cardigan Jacket by Claire Shaeffer.
Vogue V9095, like Vogue V7975, seems a bit outdated because of the frontpage of the sewing pattern. The drawings are drawn in a style that no longer fits today. Nevertheless, we would like to point out this fine pattern that is very suitable for making a Chanel-Style jacket. The pattern is an excellent base to make a Chanel-Style jacket that is super cute.
The vogue pattern is a lined jacket pattern in three different variations. The jacket is enclosed by bands and has princess lines. The sewing pattern is available in two different sizes. Make sure you order the right one!
The pattern is labeled "Vogue EASY". However, we believe that it takes experience to get the bands right. (and the welt-pockets!) The instructions are clear, but it remains a challenge. Just ask an experienced seamstress for help, then it is certainly fun to work with this sewing pattern.
The fabrics that are recommended to use are: Garbadine, Crepe, Shantung. And for the contrasting bands: Lace, Eyelets, Novelty sheers.
We have made the jacket in a wool fabric. This was pleasant work and easy to do. Note, however, that diagonal lines or checkered patterns are rarely advised. This is mainly because it is a huge job to get the 'pattern' exactly so that the lines of the front pieces merge. However, by placing the contrasting bands in a different angle, it is not noticeable that it does not fit 100% in terms of lines.
Either way, choosing a plain fabric is a lot easier.
Vogue V9095 is an ideal sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket. The pattern is based on the 'boxy-like' original Chanel jacket with bands. The lining also offers the opportunity to really make it into a Haute Couture jacket that is perfectly finished both on the inside and on the outside.
The Chanel-Style jacket is very cute. And in terms of styling you can go in all directions: from super modern to timeless or vintage.
Vogue V7860 and Vogue V9095 are fun sewing patterns to make a Chanel-Style jacket with bands. Vogue V7860 is easier than Vogue V9095 eventhough Vogue claims exactly the opposite.
Vogue V9095 has sleeves that consist of two parts and V7860 has one pattern part sleeves. Most importantly, the band around it is a lot more wrapped around the sewing pattern V9095 because there is no interruption in the band Model B and diagonally interrupted for Model A. This requires the necessary experience and insight. With the sewing pattern V7860, the bands are easier to make because you do it per pattern piece.
Vogue V9095 has a little more waist because the princess lines continue. Vogue V7860 also has princess lines, but only halfway under the bag. Wee prefer Vogue V9095, which is also more readily available via the Internet. You can also keep an eye on sewing patterns.
Truly Victorian TV494 Shirtwaists (1894) is a sewing pattern for a blouse with large puff sleeves as worn in the period: Bell Epoque 1890-1900. The sewing pattern is published by 'Truly Victorian', a sewing pattern designer who mainly focuses on Victorian style clothing.
Truly Victorian TV 494
The sewing pattern is a multi-size sewing pattern; you can make it in sizes A to N. These letters represent the size of the chest and waist. The sewing pattern does not come in the envelope as with the well-known other brands, but is issued in A-4 format and is packed in a plastic sleeve. It contains the large radar sheet in all sizes and an explanation and introduction published on four A-4 papers.
A shirtwaist is actually nothing more than a blouse. Shirtwaists used to be worn mainly in the summer, had no bones and were unlined. They were made from light, soft cotton. Shirtwaists were worn in the skirt or over the skirt and were both chic and everyday (work) clothing.
The sewing pattern does not mention any advice regarding the sewing level you need to make this blouse. We think that a beginner will succeed, with maybe a little bit of help in case the sleeves and making buttonholes are too difficult. It is not a difficult design to make.
The fabric recommendation is hard to find on the sewing pattern, but in the end we find it on the first page at the very bottom.
Suggested fabrics: "Lawn, batiste, muslin, silk, seersucker, or other light weight fabrics."
Notions: you only need buttons and half a meter of mesh or interfacing for the inner top of the puff sleeves. It is strongly advised to first make the blouse as a sample, for example from muslin. The fabric is not stretchy, therefore it is important to pick the right size to make sure the blouse fits nicely.
We think Truly Victorian TV494 Shirtwaist is a nice sewing pattern and we enjoyed making the blouse. The blouse is ideal for Cosplay, LARP or Fantasy. But also to learn how to make puff sleeves and make clothes festive or 'upcycle' a blouse.
The sewing pattern provides great explanation and is not difficult to make.
What sewing tools do you need when you start sewing? You don't have to buy the most expensive sewing machine or fancy fabrics and gadgets. You can go a long way with simple tools. Even if you are already an experienced seamstress, this video by Elena Tran fromBaudekinStudio is very interesting.
The right tool for the job
And that is especially true if sewing is your hobby. You are nowhere without a needle and thread. But you can build your collection of tools slowly and wisely. You don't need everything at once.
Perhaps a tool is mentioned that you did not know yet ...
"When you learn how to sew, it's hard to decide what tools to buy. In this video, I will share the sewing tools you need to start sewing, what they are used for and also some advanced tools I use in my studio.
Tools mentioned in the video:
Many thanks fot the video BaudekinStudio !
Some sewing patterns are 'styled' in such a way that the sewing patterns are suitable for regular jackets and typical 'Chanel-style' jacket. But some sewing patterns are clearly: wow, a real Chanel jacket! We are talking about V1717 from Vogue! This is a sewing pattern for a jacket, a longer jacket, trousers and a wrap skirt. And all in the perfect Chanel-style!
Vogue V1717 is published by Vogue and no special deisgner is mentioned on it, as it is usually the case. The front page shows a complete outfit with one jacket in two different variations (in lengths), pants and a skirt. These are all made of Houndstooth tweed fabric. The outfit has a typical Chanellook with many Chanel details. We love it!
The sewing level indicated is: medium. We agree. The sewing pattern is not terribly difficult, but an absolute beginner could use some extra text and explanation. It requires no special couture technical skills. The only tricky part: making buttonholes in thick tweed fabric and the zipper and pockets in the pants.
The recommended fabrics are: wool, wool mixes and for the pants: wool crepe, garbadine or twill. We used a Bouclé fabric for the jacket. This can be done but is not easy in terms of buttonholes and collar. Tip: use large sturdy buttons and (if you can) make bounded buttonholes. This is quite an extra job but it will give a much better (couture-)results!
If possible: try to make some waist/shape in the jackets. This takes away the 'boxy' shape, as the Chanel jacket was once made, but will still look better.
Choose good lining material so that the jackets are comfortable to wear. You may also choose to use lining for the pants so that they will not itch.
More on this: A closer look at lining fabrics!
Vogue V1717 is a sewing pattern for a great outfit in real Chanellook. The garments are fairly easy to sew. We do recommend going for bounded buttonholes, or buttons for decoration and with push buttons at the back.
We would also like to point out the choice of lining fabrics: choose a fine fabric (silk or cupro silk) so that the entire outfit is comfortable to wear.
'Never underestimate the power of a woman with a sewing machine'
'I sew therefore I am'
'Beautiful things come together, one stitch at a time'
'I am not gonna buy that, I can make it !'
'I sew. What's your superpower?'
'Sewing, Coffee, Chocolates'
'Keep calm and stitch on'
'Sewing all day long'
“I am certain that a Sewing Machine would relieve as much human suffering as a hundred Lunatic Asylums, and possibly a good deal more.”
― Margaret Atwood, Alias Grace
“When pockets were first added to women’s clothing in 1913, a Paris reporter wrote, “It’s all over with men’s superiority over women.” Pockets are indeed indispensable, and they come in two types: patch and set-in”
― Claire B. Shaeffer, Sew Any Set-In Pocket