 Mc Calls 6041 is a sewing pattern categorized: 'make it crafty'. This is a series of sewing patterns from Mc Calls that give the possibility to vary a lot and especially to add artistic finishes. The Chanel-style jacket is a good example of 'making an outfit artitic and personal' and therefore we can only embrace this sewing pattern. Mc Calls 6041 The Mc Calls pattern is a pattern for a lined jacket in five different variations. The jacket is enclosed by straps and has princess lines. The sewing pattern is less fitted than Vogue V9095 which is very similar to this pattern. We were very excited about this. The sewing pattern is from size 6 to size 20 and therefore cheaper than the Vogue V9095, which carries the same sizes but has this spread over two pattern releases. So if you are going to work for others and have variations in sizes, it is more sensible to buy this pattern. Easy peasy? The pattern does not specify the sewing level. This is unfortunate because a beginner would like to know if the pattern from them is suitable. In our opinion, the sewing pattern can be made by anyone. There are no pitfalls for a beginner and for an advanced seamstress it is fun to use the pattern to apply Claire Schaeffer's couture sewing techniques. That is, quilting the lining on the outside.  Recommended fabrics The fabrics recommended to use are: silk linen, cotton blends, garbadine, bouclé and lightweight woolen fabrics. The contrasts (bands on the jacket) can be made from chiffon (the flowers, model B, and all other types of fabric, so that's just how crafty you are! We made the jacket from lightweight bouclé with black contrasting edges. We have also added a border at the bottom. This is because the jacket would otherwise looked 'unfinished'. This is of course not necessary. With no brim at the bottom of the jacket, the jacket appears longer and may fit better with trousers or a skirt. Splendissima shows the black jacket and has also styled it with turquoise color as a blouse and shorts. This makes the jacket very 'young' and modern looking.  Pros:
Cons:
 Summarized: Mc Calls is an ideal sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket. The pattern is based on the 'boxy' original Chanel jacket with lots of embellishment. With this you can vary endlessly. The lining also offers the possibility to really make a Haute Couture jacket that is perfectly finished both on the inside and the outside. The Chanel-Style jacket can be a truly personal, creative expression. And in terms of styling you can go in all directions: from super modern to timeless or vintage.   First of all, we all need clothes, nobody is walking around naked in our society. And the range of enthusiasm about clothing goes from total disinterest to a very exaggerated mania. From fashion haters to fashion addicts. From unbelievably cheap clothing to over-the-top expensive Haute couture. There is a lot going on about clothes. But why should you create your own Chanel style jacket? Your own personal style Your wardrobe or style is saying more about you (on first sight) than your curriculum vitae. Stupid but true. It actually always have been. Every generation, every culture, every time has its own standards, values, (moral) codes and fashion build around clothes. And what about religious norms and values? Or status/profession related clothing rules? It has always been a big issue. From that perspective, talking about a beloved couture item is not such a big deal. But why do we love the French Chanel jacket so much? Why do we want to know about the construction, the sewing techniques, the history and above all: how are we able to manage to make one on our own? A lot of reasons, not just because…. Chanel style and Coco Chanel’s vision If we know why Coco Chanel invented the couture Chanel jacket, we would want to make it even more. Even though the Chanel jackets are shaped till perfection, in the early fifties, they were a totally new symbol of freedom after decades of tight corsets and an over-the-top hour-glass silhouette with almost unreachable waist size and pointy high breasts. The shape of the first Chanel jackets seemed almost boxy and masculine in that perspective. Chanel was indeed inspired by menswear but kept an eye on the total look of the suit or outfit which was very feminine and elegant. The jacket has its history and all women loved the new feeling of freedom while looking classy and sophisticated enough to be admired by everyone. The combination of easy-wearing and still looking awesome is something we always wanted. Let’s call it reason number one. Luxurious clothes are just awesome Number two is probably because we love the feeling of luxurious clothing. It is very easy to buy mass production these days and we all do it. Cheaper than cheap. Big deals. Bigger Shopping bags full of clothes or delivery within 24 hour.... Apart from cheap, fast and easy-going, we also love the idea of having something special, something unique and very personal. Creating a Chanel Inspired jacket is a very personal experience. Everything personal feels luxurious as it makes you feel unique and not just a face in the crowd. Therefore reason three goes hand in hand with reason two. Reason three is probably the idea of being unique and having your own style. Style is very important for people and specific women. We want to show our taste, our status, our profession or job and our self-esteem. A Chanel Inspired jacket is a status and a signature and it is very stylish. If you wear your Chanel jacket, everybody will be flabbergasted. It is like being at your very best.  We are the makers! Reason four. “Did you make it yourself?” Is actually not something a seamstress wants to hear. Why not? You should be so proud. It took “some” time and knowledge to make it yourself. You should be so proud! But yet we do not want to hear this question. We want to let people think you bought a real Chanel or you ordered some very luxurious piece of couture from a professional seamstress or atelier…. Whatever your feeling is, it does not matter. It is still a very big compliment because the jacket shows you have a lot of styles. Reason five. You always have been very creative. It shows. You are very handy with needle and thread and it is a piece of cake for you to make your own curtains, pillows, trousers, skirts or even coats. The Chanel Inspired jacket is next in line. It is a challenge as there has been no challenge before. Finishing the project and wearing the jacket one day, will be a big reward. And maybe you already planned the next jacket-project for yourself or somebody else. Talk about creativity. Reason six is almost the same. The Chanel Inspired jacket might be a tightly directed approach, but it provides a lot of freedom as well in being creative about the fringes, the buttons, the binding, the colour-combinations and even the length. You can spend more creativity in this jacket than in any outfit you ever produced before. Personal fitting should be one of the first reasons. The reasons are not in a logical list here. Seven. The jacket will suit you as a comfy sweater lounge outfit. If you took the time to fit and shape it on your body, it will be very perfect. Sustainability To make this socially acceptable and a little less selfish, we can also report that it is all very sustainable. A big reason eight, although it could be reason one for sure.... The materials are often of the best quality and last a lot longer than the cheaper ones. The construction of the jacket also provides the opportunity that it can be repaired or changed if needed. Sure it will be a hell of a job, but it is possible and it is an option if you’ve lost or gained weight or if it is accidentally damaged. (reason 9?)  The most beautiful gift!
And now the most generous reason. We are assuming that the seamstresses are making the DIY Chanel jackets for themselves. But it is also likely that you are going to make the jacket for someone else. A very nice niece is begging you for years now, a good friend knows your sewing skills and gives hints on a regular basis or some other beloved girlfriend wants to pay you more than you ever had earned before. Whatever the reason might be, it is very rewarding to sew clothes for somebody else. It’s a pity it can not be a total surprise ( because the fitting-steps really can not be skipped), but the gift will be a big thing anyway. It will be very satisfying spiritually to do this for another. Enjoy the process and especially enjoy the moment when the receiver unpacks the package, try it on and she will be happier than you could imagine. (And pictures will flow around the internet soon...) The receiver will be in your debt for a long time, and you will be the absolute hero for years. Last but not least... (Are we still counting?) Sewing is a hobby or a profession which is very peaceful. Women have been busy with needle and thread since the beginning of times. Mostly out of necessity, but also often as a relaxation in the form of a moment of rest. Crocheting, knitting, sewing, embroidery, they are activities that people like to do. Mindful meditation is a great way to reduce stress and relax. The results are mentally satisfying and very rewarding. Last but not least (really….) Talking about mindful sewing; producing this jacket is certainly not a hasty job. It will take hours, days, weeks, maybe even months before it will be done. Do not make a deadline. Just enjoy the process and realize it will be a slow-sewing project. Especially with all the hand-sewing which requires a bit of experience and skills. It might be even a good option to deliberately delay it yourself sometimes. Step away from it and start something easy. Come back to it when you really have the spirit. However you work, it should be fun. Good luck!  As a child you learn to cut at school and you will continue to do it all your life. It is such a basic action in life, you never think about it for a minute. In the couture world, however, cutting is a big deal. In fact: cutting is an important couture technique. Cutting as a tailor In Haute couture world, expensive materials are used. As a hobby seamstress you are probably buying less expensive fabrics. Maybe you bought a fabric of 10 euros per meter, or maybe one of 30 euros. Suppose you need 1.5 meters for a jacket, so you are cutting a piece of fabric of 45 euros. In the worst case, and that happens a lot, you make a mistake and you screw up the piece of fabric. Disaster, s.o.s. This happens to everyone a few times. Even advanced seamstress are making mistakes. You forgot the grain of the fabric or you forgot to cut extra inches for the hems. Or you will find out that you have cut two right sleeves. Not a disaster, if you have bought enough fabric, but a (small) disaster if you have to buy the fabric, but it is just not available anymore. Cutting is part of the entire project that should not be underestimated. The more accurately you cut the pattern, the better the next step of your project.  Scissors are the workers!
When you start sewing, it looks like the scissors are no longer needed. But nothing is less true. Cutting is a big part of the whole process. You have to cut the corners, you have to make notches for the curves and you often have to trim the hems when the fabric has to be sewn together on the right sides. And: the scissor is your big friend if you don't have a lock machine (yet). You have to cut precisely and zigzag the hems. And even if it is just the inside of the garment, the more accurately you work, the better and more professional are the result(s). Cutting as art In the book Ultimate Sewing Bible beautiful drawings about cutting or "couture cutting" are described:
A lot of precise work but it will be worth the effort! We want gold! It is therefore soooooo important to work with good scissors. A wire cutter for finishing the remaining wire. A stork scissors for small secure work and a golden pair of scissors to cut the fabric and the lining and to keep at hand for cutting during the sewing process. A very fine pair of scissors is the Golden Scissor. Razor sharp, very precise and comfortable in the hand. These scissors are the number one in quality sewing scissors for the sewing world. Our best buy:
Nothing as ordinary and unimportant as scissors? No, nothing as important as good scissors! A small investment but a tool that makes your sewing project looks like a piece of couture-art.  On the Vogue website we read a nice article about 'La Réunion's Patchwork Dresses Turn Symbols of Suffering Into Things of Beauty' Sarah Nsikak, fashion designer, focuses on sustainability and is fully focused on making patchwork dresses. Fortunately, she is not the only one: patchwork is back in fashion! Patchwork or Quilts? The difference between patchwork and quilting is that quilting works more with patterns and manual sewing. Quilting is a unique profession. At least three layers of fabric are stitched together, very small pieces of fabric are used and there is often a symmetrical pattern that is worked out. Quilting is a very old tradition and craft and in some cultures it is an important part of social activity, as part of traditions and sometimes even of commercial importance. Patchwork is nothing more or less than sewing pieces of fabric together. These can be pieces of fabric of different fabrics, materials and colors. Often this is then used to make clothing or simpler patchwork quilts, cushion covers, etc. The name for patchwork and quilting is often used interchangeably. But quilting is really something else than working with patches and making clothes or something else from here.  The revival of Patchwork Patchwork sounds out dated' and might remind you of Grandma's patchwork quilt who has been lying in the guest bedroom as a bed spreadfor ages.... Patchwork has always had the image of extremely economical people who work with scraps of fabric and sometimes create combinations that really don't look like much. But there is also magic with patchwork and beautiful quilts, patchwork quilts and clothing are made. Patchwork is experiencing a revival as we become more aware of the waste that the clothing industry entails. Moreover, the Corona crisis has opened people's eyes. We've all climbed behind the sewing machine ourselves to make face masks and most people discover they like to sew! Fashion designers have been working on sustainability and 'greening' for some time. See our review: Green Designed fashion. Not always successful, but every initiative is one. Working with remnants of fabric or upcycling of already used materials is a good goal! And making something beautiful out of it is a piece of cake for many designers and (hobby) seamstresses. During a broadcast of British Sewing Bee we saw several episodes in which the candidates were given an assignment to make something beautiful from their leftovers of fabric. The results were jackets, skirts, dresses and very nice children's clothing. The assignment concerning upholstery fabrics was also 'amazing'. The candidates were instructed to bring something from home. From old curtains to bed linen. These were all transformed into beautiful, usable summer dresses. Making a summer dress from net curtains and a sheet ... it is possible and the result was more than beautiful!  Chanel & Patchwork Unfortunately we can only find a few items from Chanel. But they are nevertheless eye-catchers par excellence. And the Fashion Industry is changing, so who knows, the following collections may come up with more sustainable patchwork designs if the workshops have to make do with the fabrics that are dusting in the warehouse or smaller pieces of fabric that have already disappeared in the trash can . Who cares whether something is 'in' or 'out of fashion'? For a fashion house a lot, but for people who would like to own 'a Chanel', the year of the collection is less important and the story behind it all the more. Tips & Tricks: patchwork with Bouclé fabrics Chanel has always been associated with Tweeds and Bouclé fabrics. These are not really the best fabrics for 'patchwork'. Yet the result is often great. Chanel's famous 2.55 bag has often been made of various tweed fabrics and also Bouclé. Also other bags and accessories. A few tips:
 Summarized:
In the fashion world there is a huge change going on with regard to sustainability. The use of remnants of fabric or fabrics that are supposedly 'out of fashion' is picked up in the form of patchwork. In principle, you can make anything with patchwork as a basis. From Haute couture to cushion covers for the camper. Patchwork with Bouclé fabrics or tweeds? Yes we can! And to get a beautiful 'Chanel-style' look, there are plenty of examples of the famous Chanel bag and some outfits from the catwalks. Be creative, sustainable and join the new trend: this is the fashion image of 2020 and the future!  How do you turn a (men's) shirt into a fantastic blouse of 'Chanel style'? Very easy. By 'upcycling' the shirt. Upcycling clothes is very trendy. The shirt can be an old shirt, a second-hand one or a shirt that has not been used and is waiting in your closet for years. Until now! Upcycling clothes Upcycling clothes is more than recycling. In recycling, something is reused. A good thing, but upcycling is turning clothing or just fabrics into something different from what it originally was. Even better! Think of a beautiful but out-dated evening dress that is transformed into a hip cardigan, or even more creative: a curtain that becomes a beautiful summer dress. There are plenty of examples and how creative the average seamstress is, we could also see at 'The great British Sewing Bee'. Upcycling is popular because we do not like to waste materials anymore. Or things which are made to throw away instantly. And nothing is so much fun to shop at a thrift store for useful items and fabrics that you can use to create something beautiful.  A shirt becomes a stylish blouse And so a normal (men's) shirt suddenly becomes a stylish blouse that also fits within our concept: the beloved 'Chanel style'. Many variations are of course possible. This blouse is specially designed for a summer party or special occasion. The sleeves are made of thin silk-look fabric and the blouse is loose-fitting. This gives freedom of movement and a feeling of freshness. Moreover, you see less sweat stains on dark fabric. The blouse is therefore ideal for hot days, or when you can't wear a tropical blouse, a sleeveless shirt or a standard tunic. Puffed sleeves We opted for puff sleeves. Very large puff sleeves. Are these still 'in fashion'? Well, we don't really care much about that. As long as they are beautiful, stylish and unique. Puffed sleeves always create a special look because they have something bombastic and a luxurious look. After all, a lot of fabric is used and beautiful fabric is not always cheap. But if you have leftover fabric of a nice thin fabric, that is just not enough for a dress, blouse or tunic; then it could be still enough for two puff sleeves. Or use that 'in-between-curtain package' that you once bought but never used. You can find instructions on how to make puff sleeves on many tutorials on Youtube. Or take a standard sleeve from a pattern, make seven notches down and draw on a new pattern paper the exaggerated head sleeves that will be created when you carefully unfold the pattern. If you prefer an existing pattern, Butterick 6537, Simplicity 8127, Butterick 5217 or McCalls 8120 are sewing patterns that include puff sleeves. Making the puffed sleeves in the blouse is not a problem in itself because you can fold the head of the sleeve completely. So they always fit.  How to make this exclusive blouse:
It is not difficult to create an upcyling blouse likt his example. And time consuming? No, the basis is already there: the shirt. You no longer have to worry about the facing, buttonholes, pockets or seams. Follow these steps and you'll have a unique blouse upcycled with style in no time.
The blouse is now a unique, personal blouse and it has cost little money. The shirt is now usefull, the fabric for the sleeves is no longer a leftover. The trims had been in the closet for years, and buttons: many a seamstress have a lot of buttons storage. If you do not have a large stock of materials, we recommend that you to start your own haberdashery collection. Upcycling: how easy it can be! We would also like to see your examples!  As a seamstress you might wonder WHY you need an overlocker and WHICH overlocker.
We will answer loud and clear and help you to decide which overlocker works for you. An overlocker: yes, but why? First of all: it is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewing work so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson. For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time. So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. The result will be the difference between: "Nice jacket, mmm ... homemade?" And "Wowwwww, such a nice jacket. You are kidding me, did you make it really yourself ???” In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks. And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake. But we won’t tell anyone, because you have just saved a huge amount of money by making your own curtains... Why do you need a lock machine? That's why. For all those things that an overlocker does and a sewing machine does not. Or maybe the sewing machine is able to the job but you need special feet. And above all: an overlocker is cutting and sewing at the same time. Now don't dump your sewing machine straight to the thrift store because with an overlocker in addition to a sewing machine, you create beautiful sewingwork and it definitely looks more professional. Which overlocker do you need? Overlockers are for sale in different price ranges. The cheapest is around 200-300 euros and the most expensive are around 1000 euros. The difference between the cheaper variants and the expensive ones is often in the fact that an expensive overlocker has an air pump threading system. The threads are blown through the machine, on the way to the end at the needles. This is especially easy for people who are less handy or who don't have the patience to manage the threading themselves. The expensive overlockers often have more options in terms of stitches and some options are automatically. The same as with a sewing machines. The more expensive the sewing machine, the more options and possibilities. Professional results Often the remark "Did you make it yourself..." does not feel like a compliment. Somehow people are noticing the difference between self-made clothes and the stuff you buy in a store. But as soon as you start working with an overlocker, you will no longer hear these words. Why not? Because your sewing work is now so precisely finished; it looks very professional! Let’s start adding beautiful labels with your own name or "self-made" on the clothes, because from now on, nobody believes it anymore. With an overlocker: your sewing work looks like Haute Couture Yourself. And "Oh wow, did you really make it yourself???" becomes a very big compliment! And you will answer very proudly: "YESSsss!"  Vogue V9250 is a Claire Shaeffer designed pattern, published by Vogue. We know Claire Shaeffer from the books: The Couture Cardigan Jacket, Making Designers Trims and The Couture Skirt. In her books she describes how Coco Chanel designed her famous Chanel jacket, the faux-wrap skirt and other classics. The sewing pattern V9250 is an example of a classic Chanel jacket and completely focused on the couture sewing techniques. Vogue V9250 The vogue pattern is a pattern for a loose-fitting, lined jacket with princess lines, two-piece sleeves and many fringes. The fabrics for this jacket: Tweeds, Linen, Wool and crepe. It is advisable to stick to the fabric recommendation, although we have opted for a green summer bouclé. You will need buttons, shoulder pads and lots of extra fabric to make fringes.  Sewing level: advanced The pattern has been titled "Vogue ADVANCED". We agree with this. Claire Shaeffer provides great detailed instructions, but you must have sewing experience to understand them. Also 'bouned buttonholes' are really only possible to make if you have a lot of experience. As a seamstress with a fair amount of sewing experience you can figure it out on your own, but make sure you can ask for help if you get stuck in the project or do not fully understand the instructions.  Sewing-by-hand or 'Hand-sewing' As mentioned, a lot is work for this project is sewing by hand. You gotta love this. You can find the stitches you need in most books and on the Internet. Claire Shaeffer also explains it nicely, but first learn more about it. Sewing by hand is more than just basting, the stitches have to be really strong and above all demonstrable. The sleeves consist of two parts and we think the sleeves are quite narrow at the top. Make the pattern out of muslin first, to make sure it fits properly. Sleeves that are too narrow is really a pity. As a result, you cannot move comfortable in the jacket and there is even a chance that you will tear out, especially if you use delicate fabrics such as tweed and Bouclé. Claire Shaeffer's extra 'couture instructions' are very nice. This allows you to really learn to sew with couture techniques that you will enjoy later on. The instructions are "the secrets of the master". This way you can make a real couture jacket from an affordable pattern and fabric of your choice.  We made the jacket from light green summer bouclé. The Bouclé fabric was light and not too loose. This Bouclé offers the possibility to easily make the fringes. Note: make the fringes from a double row of fabric. This gives a nicer effect and thus the fringes are easier to see. Use an overlocker to make a nice flat edge that you can easily sew onto the jacket. Or rather: between the different pattern pieces. The Chanel-style jacket has a classic look and is easy to combine with any kind of outfit. Green is not really a popular color, but it is certainly special, especially if you are looking for Bouclé fabrics in green tones. Everything about the color green & Chanel! Moreover, green is very easy to combine with jeans for a casual look, but also with black and white for a chic or business outfit. Pros:
Cons:
 Summarized:
Vogue V9250 is a special sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket according to the vision of Coco Chanel and explained by Claire Shaeffer. (in the instructions for this pattern and in all of her books). The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. Yet this jacket remains a challenge for every seamstress. Keep this in mind if you don't have much experience with 'couture sewing techniques' yet. The sewing pattern is a Chanel-style jacket par excellence. Good luck ! |
Since 2018
Sewing Chanel-Style is all about sharing information, sewing pattern-reviews, book-reviews and lots of sewing guides for sewing-beginners and advanced seamstress.
Marga van der Vet
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