Chanel collector and couture sewing expert Claire B. Shaeffer returns with Couture Sewing: 'Making designers trims' to teach you everything you need to know to create and attach the perfect trim to any outfit.
The devil is in the details After spending weeks creating a couture, Chanel-inspired suit it would be a shame to skimp on the trim. With more than 280 photos paired with step-by-step instruction, Shaeffer takes the mystery out of creating designer trims. You can easily make them yourself as long as you keep an eye on the right combinations, colors and you know how to work with the materials. Instructions Learn how to easily swap out one trim for another when you want a fresh look without creating a whole new garment. In this book you will get great instructions. Learn to topstitch like a pro to achieve a simple yet elegant trim, apply ribbons, prairie points, piping, bands, and braids. Create intricate seamed, lining, and facing trims. Make your very own cord-filled piping and crocheted trims About the Author Claire Shaeffer is an internationally respected author, lecturer, college instructor and columnist. Her innovative sewing techniques and easy-to-read instructions have guided readers and students through many sewing facets of the garment industry. Claire Shaeffer based her knowledge of haute couture construction and meticulous research studying original Chanels in museum archives and her own collection. She wrote the celebrated Couture Sewing Techniques for Taunton Press and has authored and starred in a multitude of successful videos on couture sewing. 
Great:
Not thát great:
Notes: We specially love the "Lining and Facing Trims" paragraph. Now that is Chic Couture !! 
Summarized:
'Making designers trims' is a great book for Chanel-style couture lovers. It is also a great gift for the holidays! We hope it will the next publication of this book contain be a bit more modern, bold and daring trims and fringes. We also hope the book will have more photo's and examples of self-made trims like braiding, crochet and knitting. More Etsy and Craftsy stuff..... 
The Overlocker Technique manual, Julia Hincks is an interesting manual and a great gift for the holidays. For fast and professional edging, hemming, seaming, and decorative stitching, you simply can't beat a serging machine. This all-skill-level book is the perfect guide to make sure you get the most out of your new machine (or out of that old serger that you've never got the hang of!)
The serger or overlocker Photographs and step-by-step instructions guide you through the essential techniques, showing you how to set up your machine, how to adjust the settings to get the best results on a range of different fabrics, and how to edge your fabrics quickly with perfect results. The troubleshooting section provides tips and quick fixes for skipped stitches, snapped threads, and uneven stitching. Also includes a buyer's guide to different sergers, providing you with advice on finding the right machine for you. An overlocker: yes, but why? First of all: an overlocker is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewing work so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson. For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time. So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. T In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks. And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake. A great book:
A bit less interesting:
Summarized:
We love all the beautiful examples. But it all looks a bit like a mamma or grandmother is sewing (locking) for her baby. Next edition: please provides us with more pictures of modern clothes or beautiful couture. Nevertheless: the book is a great gift for a seamstress for the holidays! 
Breaking the pattern; 'A modern way to sew' is a book written by the Finnish sisters Saara and Laura Huhta. They founded the Finnish sewing pattern label "Named" and are successful. Named delivers two collections per year and encourages people to sew their own clothes. The sisters are very convincing and have a great taste of (Scandinavian) style.
"The aim of the collections is to bring a new perspective to making one’s own clothes and to support ethical and ecological consuming in contrast to a clothing industry focused on fast fashion."
For the beginner
The book is written for the novice seamstress. The book is divided into an introduction, projects and additional information. The introduction contains twenty pages of basic information you need to know before getting started. Everything is clearly explained and substantiated with excellent drawings and beautiful photos. Next are the projects: ten sewing patterns explained in detail with instructions and photos. In the extra information you can read how to adjust a sewing pattern, there is a glossary and extra information about suppliers and web shops. Beautiful sewing patterns The sewing patterns are printed on loose pattern sheets added in an envelope in the book. The pattern sheets are reasonably clear but will be a puzzle for the absolute beginner. If you follow the instructions step-by-step, you can do it. We think it is a pity the pattern sheets are not numbered and that the sewing patterns in the book are not described with a number referring the pattern sheets. You have to unfold all the pattern sheets to find the right sewing pattern. Fortunately the pattern sheets are chronological. For example, pattern 1 is not on the same sheet as pattern 9. 
A true workshop!
The book is a great tool to learn about sewing techniques. The sewing patterns start with a simple bag. You do not need a lot of sewing skills to get the jb done. The book finish with a walkloden coat which really a lot of sewing experience. The sewing techniques are explained per sewing pattern and are building up your skills. The instructions are worked out in approximately 10-15 pages per pattern and also offer variations for the pattern. Scandinavian style is stylish The strength of this book and the sewing patterns lies in the beautiful simplicity that is visually presented very appealing. Most sewing magazines often pop to a lot of sewing patterns, styles and often the clothes don't seem very easy to create. This book radiates tranquility, simplicity and minimalism. The style of Scandinavia. When you see the sewing patterns, you immediately think: Yes I can! You can also adjust the clothing to your own taste by, for example, choosing a printed fabric instead of a plain fabric, or by applying variations in decoration and style. 
To try out the sewing patterns we made the bag "Nummi" in two variations and the dress "Utu". The bag has a lovely pattern and is really easy to make. Goodbye big plastic shopping bag from the supermarkets, hello! home-made spacious shopping bag from Scandinavia.
With the bag you can vary as much as you want: add sturdy fabric as a bottom, make inner pockets for mobile and wallet or embellish the bag with passe-partouts like we did with a textile print from Mindfuldrawing. The dress is a fun pattern for a beginner. We did discover a mistake: the side of the front piece is the number of centimeters shorter that the pleat takes up. Fortunately, this error can be solved by shortening the bottom of the back piece by two centimeters. The dress has a tight fit. Note this if you prefer a comfortable dress instead of a tight-fitting dress. Also note: the seam allowances are 1 centimeter. This is stated in the introduction to the book. Not the 1.5 centimeters as usual with Burda patterns or seam allowances included as with Vogue, New Look, Simplicity, Butterick and most other brands. Conclusion: The book is an absolute must-have for a friend who likes to be creative. Bur including all those beautiful sewing patterns, the book is very valuable. The sewing patterns are timeless and very stylish. 
The little black dress is written by Simon Henry. The beautiful, large book is about the little black dress and offers sewing patterns and many instructions. It is informative and a nice coffee table book.
The versatile little black dress No woman in the world should be without a little black dress! And that's an understatement... The little black dress is always chic, always classy and ideal for styling for different occasions: an evening party, a formal business-meeting or just a nice casual day. Add some accessories, handbags, a coat, shoes or boots or combine it with sneakers. Everything is possible and timeless beautiful. But where to find a little black dress that really fits? Here you have the answer: make one yourself! A tailor-made Little Black Dress ('LBD') could be yours. The back page of the book promises it is possible even though you do not have any experience with sewing. Expert dressmaker Simon Henry will guide you through the process of making the perfect little black dress. 
Do you need any sewing experience?
Unfortunately we do not agree with the book about the required sewing-level. It takes some knowledge of sewing and some experience in cutting the pattern, shaping it on a dressform and sewing your own tailor-made little black dress. But we agree everything about the great guide the book offers. The pictures of the instructions are loud and clear. The drawings are perfect and the back ground information is really very nice. All the other photographs of the book are stunning and the layout of the whole book is really worth every penny. We definitely recommend this book. But make sure it will not be your first project, otherwise it probably won't work. Unless you are really very talented. 
Good!
A little less good:
Good luck! We are sure wyou will create a perfect-fitting LBD and would like to see the results. Feel free to send photos of your creation! 
Model: Marga van der Vet, Photography: Erik Bolding (The Netherlands)
Ladies, A Guide to Fashion and Style
The book Ladies, A Guide to Fashion and Style is a 2002 edition, a translation of the book "Die Lady, handbuch der Klassischen Damenmode" by Claudia Piras. It is a 2002 edition; it surprised me because the book looks more published in the eighties. This is mainly due to the photos, texts and old-fashioned layout. Personally, I suspect that the photos are mostly from older advertisements whose copyrights can no longer be traced. This explains why this book, which is only 17 years old, looks a lot older and can also regularly be found in thrift stores or second-hand on bol.com. (The new editions are also for sale, of course, so you can be sure that the book is intact and no notes have been made in it.) Timeless classics For women who are loving the timeless, classic fashion (brands), this book is a nice manual or, frankly, a lot of background information. Of course, we don't really need a manual to dress ourselves stylishly, because with the classics, which are discussed in detail in the book, you will never go wrong.... Classics are always good And even if you would wear for a fancy twinset, above jeans, a trench coat and a pair of nice sneakers underneath, not to mention a beautiful Hèrmes Birkin or Chanel bag, it looks really always good… Eighties, 2002 or now! It doesn't matter, these fashion classics have proven that they can be there and will stay. What are the classics actually? The association of "classic" fashion often has something old-fashioned. We immediatly think about a woman with a knee-length plaid skirt, plain sweater over it and blouse underneath. Flat shoes and a hair clip…. Fortunately, this book shows that the image of classic fashion is really a lot better and more modern than the fussy prejudice. From casual to outdoor clothing, from sportswear to beautiful sneakers. Timeless "classic" is fashion that is not subject to the speed of commerce but has proven to last for more than a few decades. Some items even become "Collectors items" over the years, such as Aigner's famous Chanel bags, Cartier watches, Hèrmes scarves, Barbour wax coats and gloves. So many more examples in this book, without it becoming annoying advertising. 
Timeless = sustainable
We really like this book because of the beautiful classics and background information, but also because it shows that fashion can be timelessly beautiful. No woman has to follow fashion to look good. Buy a few basics and you can vary endlessly. Moreover, you don't need much at all. A pair of nice coats, shoes, jeans, sweaters, a handbag and nice quality gloves and you can go for years. Some items even last a lifetime. Get rid of waste, get rid of cheap junk that is broken after three washes. The underlying thoughts of timeless fashion is a great approach. Fur - no! The only downside, as animal lovers, are the pages about fur. The photos are outdated, as is the text. Fur is no longer a status symbol and looks rather cheap than chic. This beautiful red almost square book with glossy pages, could be even better in a new edition with a slightly more modern tone. Green, durable, timeless classics that don't even have to be expensive, but 'just' good. I am sure that this book will be loved by many, and not only my generation (in their fifties) but also younger generations who also like to go for timeless - sustainable - ladies' fashion. 
In Dutch
How do you make your own Chanel-inspired jacket ? There is a simple answer to that question: read the books by Claire Shaeffer! This American lady has written many books about the history of Haute couture, how to make your own couture and in particular everything about Chanel couture. Her books are for all seamstress or hobby-sewers. But they are also interesting for people who are not interested in sewing. The history of Haute couture Claire Shaeffer is an expert in Haute couture. She has a wealth of knowledge and an own collection of vintage couture. She gained her knowledge by looking around in museums and studying couture in detail. Couture houses often do not reveal their secrets. However, Claire has unraveled many couture secrets by studying original vintage items. These literately inside studies enabled her to gather a lot of information that normally remains behind closed doors. Think of it as recipes from special menus from top restaurants. It is not only about the ingredients of a menu, but also about the specific cooking techniques that suddenly make eating a plate something very special. Apart from detailed sewing techniques, the books contain many beautiful photos of special vintage clothing. Classic and timeless chic! A beautiful Chanel jacket worn on trendy jeans. Who doesn't want this? Or a beige tweed coat for the winter? Just as timelessly beautiful as the perfectly fitting business blazer you would like to wear on occasions where you need to look beauty and brains. Everyone likes photography and information about the fashion of the past and the fashion of today. The only difference between a Vogue or Hapaar's Bazaar magazine and Claire Shaeffer's books is the idea to make these great pieces of clothing yourself. Perhaps you should first start with making potholders or pajama pants, but after a few years of practice it will probably work... Claire Shaeffer & Chanel Couture Anyone who says 'Chanel jackets' in the sewing-world, says Claire Shaeffer. Conversely too. Claire Shaeffer is a Chanel expert par excellence. Her books: The Couture Cardigan Jacket, The Couture Skirt and Designer trims deal specifically with the phenomenon: the Little French Jacket. The books are about how-to instructions and inspirations for color combinations, choices of fabrics and the very specific decorative trims and fringes of these jackets. A very nice ode to Coco Chanel. Some of her books were reissued in 2013, exactly one hundred years after Coco Chanel opened its first store in Deauville. A gift or a "silent" hint! If you have a girlfriend who likes to work with needle and thread: the books for this special lady are nice to give as a gift. Perhaps the silent hint is understood. You hope she will make a DIY Chanel jacket for you some day.... The word "day" is misplaced here. It is known that the "making time" of the Chanel jackets is on average 80 hours. And don't forget to add a lot of reading hours too, because you will soon loose the time if you step into the world of Haute couture through the eyes of Claire Shaeffer.  Inside Haute couture: Behind the Scenes at the Paris Ateliers by Desirée Sadek and Guillaume de Laubier As the title says, this book is about taking a glimpse inside the famous fashion houses. It is very picture-heavy with many images of studios, workshops, designers and artisans at work, as well as the close ups of the gorgeous details that go into the garments and the shots before the fashion shows begin. The photography is splendid, of course, and every page is full of information about the haute couture design process at different fashion houses. What goes on behind closed doors at Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Yves Saint Laurent and other famous houses is usually very secretive in the fashion industry. It is so refreshing to see a bit of this mystery unveiled. For example, my favourite part is the way the authors described the typical day at Mademoiselle Chanel’s when she was still alive. A valet at the hotel where she lived would call the workplace at 31, rue Gambon (right across from the hotel), to let the staff know that she was on her way. They would immediately spray her favourite perfume all over so she can get a good whiff when she got to work. Paris, the centre of Haute couture The book also highlights various skilled workshops around Paris that help the fashion houses bring their collections to fruition. Maison Lesage, Maison Michel, Massaro shoes, Maison Lemarie, Atelier Broderies Vermont got their due praises. The details of their work are amazing. It is no wonder that Paris is still the center of the haute couture industry simply because the skilled labour is there and they have thousands of embroidery, shoes, pleats, feather and other embellishments’ designs on files from hundreds of years in fashion. Some secrets revealed I am always curious to know what inspires other designers, what their creative process is like, and how they succeed. There are snippets of information in this book that help me understand why some designers are more successful than others. Ambition and talent are important, of course, and there is plenty of mention about that throughout the book. But there are other deciding factors that make it of break it in this industry. For instance, the very fact that all of the most famous fashion houses are located in Paris is a major reason for success because they have access to the best fabrics, notions and embellishments without worrying about shipping and customs duties.  Work at workshops!
It is common custom among the fashion houses to purchase the workshops that they need for their designs, such as embroidery and lace. Chanel’s group has recently acquired the workshop in Paris making tweeds because originally Chanel’s tweeds were imported from Linton Tweeds in the UK. Similar example of acquisitions is the house of Dior buying Atelier Broderies Vermont. Elie Saab has his own workshops in Beirut making hundreds of meters of precious embroideries. On the final note, this book is a great resource for anyone working in the fashion design industry or for those who are curious about what the prestigious studios look like and how the designers work. 
This book is new in my library and it exceeded my expectations in every way. It tells about Balenciaga's humble beginnings, his success story, design process, the suppliers he worked with, his famous clients and it includes plenty of great photos to highlight his style.
Respect for women He was such a private man and a true gentleman who never revealed much about his private life. The book does tell about his dressmaking background which started with his mother when the family lived in Spain. Because of his mother’s influence, Balenciaga had a great respect for women and he understood the lines, colours and designs that flatter the female figure. He didn’t like corsets and closures of Dior garments. He wanted women to be comfortable and stylish at the same time. The book leads us through his professional journey from San Sebastian to Paris highlighting the historical and political context of this period both in Spain and in France. Balenciaga's style What this book really excels in is describing Balenciaga’s style, his inspirations and Spanish influences. There are plenty of images throughout the book that show how the designer’s style evolved over the year. Yet he stayed true to his impeccable construction with engineering precision. He was one of those rare fashion designers who could make any garment from start to finish. He considered himself a tailor and a dressmaker and his pieces were constructed based on his solid tailoring training. He was incredibly meticulous in his designs and he paid great attention to detail. If he didn’t like the lines, he would pull the garment apart and start again. 
Dressmaker ánd businessman
He was also a shrewd businessman and he was procuring fabrics and notions based on the best price rather than loyalty. He had a great list of the best European suppliers, including Abraham, Agnona, Dormeuil, Chanel, Velours de Lyon and many many others. He was fortunate to open his business in Paris where he got access to the best textiles, buttons and trimmings and where the best embroidery artisans, such as Maison Lesage, were available. He kept accurate ledgers of his expenses which show how the fashion house grew over the years. 
If you love vintage fashion...
I was hungry to know how he designed and procured his fabrics, his creative process, and also price, advertising and publicity strategies he used to compete with other fashion houses at the time. The luxury fashion market is very difficult to enter and he was one of the designers who was able to dominate this market and seed other budding designers some of whom actually apprenticed with him. Hubert de Givenchy, André Courrèges, Emanuel Ungaro come to mind. I will not spoil your read by revealing too much detail, just to say that the book is very interesting with plenty of details and quotes shared by those who worked with the designer or bought his clothes. If you love vintage fashion, you will love this book. 
For years, I have been following the Chanel fashionhouse. I read every book about Chanel or Chanel couture and I even create the famous Chanel jackets myself, according to the strict rules of Haute couture (and my beloved Claire Schaeffer). My quilty pleasure ... in capitals!
But now, a new book. A real treasure! You can hardly give a bigger gift to a Chanel-fan like me. Figuratively but also literally. Because it is a big book. A beautiful coffee table book with a striking light blue front and a very appealing content. But different than the others, because it stands out among all the glossy Chanel books, which have been on the coffee table for some time. The making of a Collection The book is richly illustrated by Jean-Philipe Delhomee. No illustrations as a side issue, but drawings that are at least 3 to 1 in relation to the text. No photo in this book, not even on the inside flaps of the cover and back page. The illustrations are beautiful, cheerful and very modern. The text of Laetitia Cénac is easy to follow in English for people our Dutch readers. Pleasant letter font, written well and clearly arranged. Who are the makers of a couture collection? Apart from all information about the Fashion House Chanel, about Gabrielle Chanel, history and even a list of important dates (pages 234-238), the book is mainly about WHO makes Haute-couture. Every step, from the process of idea (even an interview with Karl Lagerfeld) till the catwalk. The book is mainly about people who all do their work, which contributes to the beautiful couture collections of Chanel. The first pages are devoted to a fashion show. Before the first model with a beautiful Chanel jacket arrives on the catwalk, a lot has happened. Many people are already involved, who are an important part, but you have never thought about it for a second. Illustrations of the sound designer, the make-up artists, the fitting and dressing team, the stage manager etc. Presenting a collection is not a one-man show of a designer, but a well-oiled machine in which many people play a (big)role. The book elaborates on this. Back to the very beginning; from fabric to Haute couture. Every part of the collection and the entire making process is discussed, from bags, shoes, gloves, hats, jewelry to fabrics, yarn and threads. There are many pages dedicated to how the materials are made, how choices are made and where and who supplies this material. An ode to many people, to them all. To all people behind the products, to all people who cooperate or who are important suppliers of the basis for the Chanel collection. From now on I look at the Chanel collections with even more interest. A superficial world? Opinions are divided on this. The fact is that it is a whole industry and that more people are involved than you might think. A lot of glitter and glamor in this book, but strikingly enough, the emphasis is more on the entire creative process than on all the lavish luxury, the big money and the inaccessibility of Haute couture for ordinary people. This is mainly due to the modern, joy full drawings and the design of the book. Very well done, because in these times the environmental, climate and economic problems are too big to admit the money smelter of the upper class. 
This book is an eye-opener that very cleverly emphasizes the old crafts, manual labor and all the people behind the scenes who do the work.
(Let's just hope that all these production processes will also be carried out in an environmentally friendly way and that they will be able to maintain themselves in the coming years. So that we can continue to enjoy the Chanel Haute couture) At least I have enough inspiration to climb behind the sewing machine ... if I manage to put this book aside for a while.  Last week, June 13, 2020, was the day of the sewing machine! That sounds a bit old-fashioned, but it certainly isn't. The sewing machine revival is a fact! Partly thanks to the Corona crisis and all creative people who started sewing with face masks. Quilty pleasures We have written about sewing magazines (also for children: ZigZagZoom magazine!) And sewing books. We realluy appreciate these books. But also books that fall under the category: "Quilty pleasures", the so-called "must-have" books, fashion trends and tips & tricks. Green Designed fashion And suddenly there is a book "Green Designed Fashion" by Christine Anna Bierhals. It had been between my pile of "readable books" for a while. The book looks beautiful. Square format, attractive front and a bit of a combination of glossy and alternative. An eco-fashion glossary! Page by page, designers come along with photos of their ideas about fashion, trends and designs. Unknown names, but also well-known names such as Filippa K, American Apparel and Levi's. On the left page two columns with text and explanation: English and German. It is written in short pieces; how the designers are concerned with the environment and their own collections. Most excel in creativity but are also very innovative. "Sustainability" is a word that (tahanks God!) Is often mentioned, just like "environmentally friendly" and "social responsible". Each and every one explains what their emphasis is on. For one, this is mainly the choice of materials (raw materials), for the other this is support for an organization or target group. Conserving resources is a good thing The designers, from all countries of the world, are of good will and do everything to "green" their industry. A good thing, because with "fashion" we soon think of good clothes that you can no longer wear because they are so "out-dated" and are therefore no longer acceptable in the street scene. Or cheap mass production of the low-wage countries where exploitation is a fact. And especially the poor quality that ensures you will throw away the garment after five washes.  Not so joyfull... The book is easy to read and radiates hope and courage. Yupie! The world is changing for a while and we live in green cities with fresh air and we wear clothes and we are not feeling guilty. But then the downer: the book is from 2008! It is already twelve years later and nothing seems to have changed at all. In fact, the choice for the consumer has become limited between dirt-cheap mass-production clothing or expensive designer clothing. Green future? But I remain positive. It is a beautiful book, may have been very innovative in 2008 and the fact is that terms such as 'ethical trade', 'fair trade', 'sustainability' and 'organic cotton label' and 'recycling' have become concepts that everyone knows and pursues. Now we hope for a continuation of this book about all designers who have gained a foothold with their innovative ideas and have indeed reached the mass consumer. And back to the day of the sewing machine: we are increasingly producing ourselves. Sewing as a hobby is no longer old fashioned, but environmentally conscious, modern and very green!  
A Chanel-Style jacket without trims or fringes? Impossible !
Coco Chanel made her signature trims and fringes longggg time ago and they are still famous and SUPER modern ! Let's start making trims and fringes and be creative as never before!
Read the book: Making designer trims by Claire Schaeffer
 Chanel-Style, Pink and the snow.... But to be honest, we have not had any winter in the Netherlands in recent months. No snow, just rain, lots of rain and too hot temperatures. Not good.... , but we won't talk about that on this website. Let's focus on the jacket: The pink Chanel-style jacket is made of lovely woolly Bouclé fabric with a silk lining. If you make a Chanel jacket a bit more spacious, it is also often very suitable to wear outside. Even in the snow;>)
The little black dress, by Simon Henry
No woman in the world should be without a little black dress! And that's an understatement... The little black dress is always chic, always classy and ideal for styling for different occasions: an evening party, a formal business-meeting or just a nice casual day. Add some accessories, handbags, a coat, shoes or boots or combine it with sneakers. Everything is possible and timeless beautiful. But where to find a little black dress that really fits? Read all about this book,
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