Category: All About Sewing

How to sew a waxcoat

1/17/2021

You either love it or hate it: wax coats. But a fact is: wax coats have been worn for years by enthusiasts such as hunters, nature lovers, farmers, fishermen and horse people. Wax coats are functional and truly timeless classics. They are very comfortable, water-repellent and are very strong.

'Do they know bad weather'
Wax coats are originally from England, Ireland and Scotland. "Do they know bad weather" used to be a slogan of a well-known brand for a long time. Because wax coats are made of cotton with a special wax coat, they are water-repellent and also dirt-repellent. Wax coats are extremely strong and durable. This is also especially useful when you are a hunter, a nature lover or a horserider and you travel through the woods. A bush, thorny plant or a tree will not cause any damage. Most wax coats are very strong and they last for years.

Timeless, cool and beautiful
Wax clothing is ideal for many outdoor activities and outdoor sports. In addition, wearing a wax coat is a kind of lifestyle, sometimes also called: 'The English style'. It's chic, cool and tasteful. The colors are often brown, green, beige or navy and have checked linings. The coats can be made of real waxed cotton, but also of more modern fabrics that you do not have to wax.

Wax coats must be well maintained by re-lubricating the outside with wax or spraying once in a while. Please do not forget to use the waxspray outside and at a good distance. Make sure the jacket is clean first, by going over it with a soft brush. Wax coats are rarely washed, often it is not necessary because they breathe much better than real waterproof clothing and by traditionally wearing a sweater or cotton shirt / blouse underneath, the lining will not get wet with sweat itself.

Wearing a wax coat can initially be experienced as cold. But you warm up soon and feel wonderfully warm for a long time. For the real winter there are often extra linings for sale, which you can attach to the wax jacket by means of zippers or buttons. The unlined wax coats are ideal for fall and spring. The lined jackets are there for the winter and the extra linings are there for the really cold days.

Short or long wax coats
It seems as if there are only two models on the market: short or very long. In reality there are more variations in length, but short or long are indeed the most common models. Long wax coats are ideal to also protect your legs and the saddle when you are horseriding. Short wax coats offer more freedom of movement.

The prices of wax coats varies greatly and is highly brand dependent. Some wax coats are offered for less than a hundred euros, but if you want one of a well-known brand, you will pay a fortune. This is also because the jackets are often very complete and offer many extras. Lots of pockets, compartments, options and detachable parts.

Make your own wax coat
Can you make a wax coat yourself? Yes, you can, but there are few sewing patterns for a real wax coat. In our opinion, these three sewing patterns are best suited for making a wax coat. We looked at the possibility of making the jacket from canvas or waxed cotton, a clear and simple model and the possibilities to expand the jacket itself with extra pockets, hood etc. Specific sewing patterns for wax coats cannot be found. But a sewing pattern for a sturdy outdoor jacket can already be enough to use as a basis.

If you already have a wax coat that is heavily worn and 'off-duty', you can also tear it apart and use it as a sewing pattern. You can even adjust it or use parts that are not worn out. Think of pockets, inner pockets, maybe the cuffs and / or the hood.

We like Simplicity 59052 the most. The Simplicity pattern is extensive and very suitable for making a wax coat. Especially Model B. looks very good as the basis for a long wax coat. Make the jacket at least 20 cm. longer.

It's a fit 1011 is a nice simple raincoat and if you make it a lot shorter, place straight pockets on it and choose a metal two-way zipper, you will also come close to a wax jacket. The model requires some adjustments but is fine as a basis.

Burda 6360 (Model A) is more of a parka-like jacket because of the drawstring at the waist. But if you omit this, it also seems like a nice basis for a wax coat. The pockets in particular are well placed and sleeves, which consist of two parts, will fit nicely and allow plenty of freedom of movement.

Simplicity 59052

Burda 6360

It's a fit 1011

Fabrics:
Try to buy a real waxed cotton / canvas. However, it is difficult to obtain and sometimes too thick and stiff to sew. At Böttger we found a beautiful black waxed canvas.

You can also buy canvas, make the coat and apply the wax coat-layer later on, by waxing the jacket completely by hand, or hanging it up, outside and spraying it. Do this in the open air, and preferably two thin layers than one thick layer. You can buy wax everywhere, sometimes even at shoe stores, Bol.com or in outdoor stores.

A third option is to buy a fabric that is truly waterproof. Such as a good nylon or polyester fabric. However, we do not recommend this. The charm of a wax coat (and the comfort) is really that it is a wax coat and not a waterproof raincoat. You stay warm and you don't get wet with sweat, which is often the case with waterproof jackets, even though they claim to be 'breathable'.

zwart canvas katoen met waterafstotende coating te koop bij Böttger

mos zwart geruit zuiver wol Shetland tweed te koop bij Böttger

rood groen zuiver wol tartan ruit italiaans import te koop bij Böttger

Lining-fabrics:
If you are sewing a wax coat for the in-between seasons (spring and fall) then a 100% cotton lining is recommended. If you really want to go for the English style, choose a lining with a tartan design. This is available from Böttger fabrics. If you are going to make a wax coat for the winter, choose a 100% wool lining. At Böttger we found a beautiful woolen fabric, see above, middle photo. These are fabrics that you can fall in love with because of the quality, the timeless design and also the high wearing comfort.
Tip: buy a 35 cm. extra so you can make a scarf out of it. Super chic!

Colors:
Waxcoats are normally close to the colors of nature: green, army green, moss green, dark brown, light brown, beige and liver-colored. But wax coats are also beautiful in dark blue (navy), black or even bright red. Traditionally, the lining is best in tartan designs. These are often sober in color but can also pop in red tones, bright blue and yellow stripes. We found the following canvas fabrics at Budget fabrics:

What else do you need to think about?
A wax coat looks simple but often has many options. For instance: then there is an extra loop for a dog whistle. You can of course also use this to hang a shopping cart coin, or a mouth cap:>) Anyway, a wax coat is a coat that you can use without a bag because of the many pockets and hidden pockets.

Tips you can think of to perfect your wax coat:

Sew as many pockets as possible on the outside front of the wax coat. Most pockets on wax coats are elongated to square. With some brands, the flaps of the bags are a bit chilly. Border it with imitation leather bias tape.
Sew as many inner pockets as possible into the lining.
Do not use buttons, but jeans press studs that can take a beating.
The zipper will be not cheap: only buy a stainless steel zipper that is metal and opens at the bottom. This is due to freedom of movement and the appearance of the wax coat.
Make side splits in the seam of the front and back piece. This is ok to create as much freedom of movement as possible. The splits should be closed with a push button.
If you are going for a model with a hood, try making the hood detachable. This will not be easy but nice for days when you really don't need the hood.
Make cuffs on the sleeve lining. This is not only nice to wear but also keeps you extra warm.
Long wax coats often have a shoulder cape that you can optionally remove. These are not difficult to sew. If you can't figure it out without a sewing pattern, you can search the Internet for 'sewing a cape' and adjust it in length. You also put on straps that go under the arms and sew press studs on it so that the cape is secured at the top in the neck.
The collars are often made of corduroy. However, imitation leather also looks very nice.

Facts:
Long wax coats have very long splits at the back and there are straps at the bottom of the jacket, which you can put around your legs. This is because riders are wearing the jacket and the spindle gives room to hang over the saddle. The straps are to ensure that the front panels remain over the rider's legs and do not slide to the side.

Short wax coats sometimes have two zippers in the back where there is a long space, lined with nylon that runs behind the coat, as it were. The purpose of this extra space was for hunters to put in shot prey and to keep your hands free.

The older the wax coat the better...!

Why would you make a wax coat yourself?
But why would you make a wax coat yourself, a reader recently asked. The reasons are very simple.

Firstly, (brand) wax coats are really very expensive. Buying all the materials yourself (fabric, lining, closures, zippers, and cuffs), however expensive, are still a fraction of the real price you pay for a good wax coat.

A second reason is that wax coats are often 'annoying' in terms of sizes. If you think you are buying a tight jacket with a size M, it turns out that you fit in it twice. But if you buy a size S, you can barely move in it. And then we are not talking about the brands of which it is better to buy an XL than a size M. In addition, the size also strongly depends on what you are going to wear underneath. Do you want a thick turtleneck sweater underneath or do you prefer a tight ski pullover? If you buy the wax coat online or second-hand on the marketplace, it remains a big gamble in terms of size. Making a wax coat yourself can save you a lot of frustration and you can fit, fit and (adjust) again in the meantime.

A third reason, wax coats are often very standard in color and shape. If you make a wax coat yourself, you can, so to speak, make a flower lining in it or choose a bright color for the outside. You can make the jacket unique and very personal.

Last but not least: why not? If you have the skills to sew a 'Chanel style' jacket, a wedding dress or a complicated Cosplay costume... a wax coat will be the next challenge!

GOOD LUCK!

Vogue V7860 versus Vogue V9095

1/11/2021

Vogue V7860 is an old sewing pattern which almost looks like a vintage sewing pattern. But it is not a vintage sewing pattern at all. It is a great sewing pattern for making a classic Chanel jacket and easier than the same type of sewing pattern: Vogue 9095.

Vogue V7860
Vogue V7860 is a beautiful classic sewing pattern for a Chanel-style jacket with bands. The recommended fabrics are: Lightweight Tweeds, Lightweight Gabardine and Silk/Linen Blend. The sewing pattern also offers pants in two different lengths and a skirt. You can also make this sewing pattern in Bouclé fabrics, with bands made of the same fabric as the lining.

Coco Chanel often enjoyed this: use the silk lining on the outside of the jacket or make a blouse to wear underneath.

Sewing level
Vogue V7860 is an average sewing level pattern. We expect you can handle this with a little sewing experience. It is not a difficult sewing pattern and the bands around it are easy to make. The skirt and pants do not give any sewing problems either.

Our Chanel-style jacket:
We made the jacket from a Bouclé fabric and put a dark blue band around it. This in combination with a light green lining. We quilted the lining on the outside and deviated from the sewing pattern in that sense.

Read all about quilting liners to make an authentic Chanel style jacket: The Couture Cardigan Jacket by Claire Shaeffer.

Vogue V9095, like Vogue V7975, seems a bit outdated because of the frontpage of the sewing pattern. The drawings are drawn in a style that no longer fits today. Nevertheless, we would like to point out this fine pattern that is very suitable for making a Chanel-Style jacket. The pattern is an excellent base to make a Chanel-Style jacket that is super cute.

Vogue V9095
The vogue pattern is a lined jacket pattern in three different variations. The jacket is enclosed by bands and has princess lines. The sewing pattern is available in two different sizes. Make sure you order the right one!

Easy peasy?
The pattern is labeled "Vogue EASY". However, we believe that it takes experience to get the bands right. (and the welt-pockets!) The instructions are clear, but it remains a challenge. Just ask an experienced seamstress for help, then it is certainly fun to work with this sewing pattern.

Recommended fabrics
The fabrics that are recommended to use are: Garbadine, Crepe, Shantung. And for the contrasting bands: Lace, Eyelets, Novelty sheers.

We have made the jacket in a wool fabric. This was pleasant work and easy to do. Note, however, that diagonal lines or checkered patterns are rarely advised. This is mainly because it is a huge job to get the 'pattern' exactly so that the lines of the front pieces merge. However, by placing the contrasting bands in a different angle, it is not noticeable that it does not fit 100% in terms of lines.
Either way, choosing a plain fabric is a lot easier.

Vogue V9095 is an ideal sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket. The pattern is based on the 'boxy-like' original Chanel jacket with bands. The lining also offers the opportunity to really make it into a Haute Couture jacket that is perfectly finished both on the inside and on the outside.
The Chanel-Style jacket is very cute. And in terms of styling you can go in all directions: from super modern to timeless or vintage.

Summarized:
Vogue V7860 and Vogue V9095 are fun sewing patterns to make a Chanel-Style jacket with bands. Vogue V7860 is easier than Vogue V9095 eventhough Vogue claims exactly the opposite.

Vogue V9095 has sleeves that consist of two parts and V7860 has one pattern part sleeves. Most importantly, the band around it is a lot more wrapped around the sewing pattern V9095 because there is no interruption in the band Model B and diagonally interrupted for Model A. This requires the necessary experience and insight. With the sewing pattern V7860, the bands are easier to make because you do it per pattern piece.

Vogue V9095 has a little more waist because the princess lines continue. Vogue V7860 also has princess lines, but only halfway under the bag. Wee prefer Vogue V9095, which is also more readily available via the Internet. You can also keep an eye on sewing patterns.

Vogue V1717, a real Chanel-style outfit!

1/3/2021

Some sewing patterns are 'styled' in such a way that the sewing patterns are suitable for regular jackets and typical 'Chanel-style' jacket. But some sewing patterns are clearly: wow, a real Chanel jacket! We are talking about V1717 from Vogue! This is a sewing pattern for a jacket, a longer jacket, trousers and a wrap skirt. And all in the perfect Chanel-style!

Vogue V1717
Vogue V1717 is published by Vogue and no special deisgner is mentioned on it, as it is usually the case. The front page shows a complete outfit with one jacket in two different variations (in lengths), pants and a skirt. These are all made of Houndstooth tweed fabric. The outfit has a typical Chanellook with many Chanel details. We love it!

Sewing level:
The sewing level indicated is: medium. We agree. The sewing pattern is not terribly difficult, but an absolute beginner could use some extra text and explanation. It requires no special couture technical skills. The only tricky part: making buttonholes in thick tweed fabric and the zipper and pockets in the pants.

Fabrics:
The recommended fabrics are: wool, wool mixes and for the pants: wool crepe, garbadine or twill. We used a Bouclé fabric for the jacket. This can be done but is not easy in terms of buttonholes and collar. Tip: use large sturdy buttons and (if you can) make bounded buttonholes. This is quite an extra job but it will give a much better (couture-)results!

Pros:

The sewing pattern is not very difficult
The sewing pattern offers many variations in terms of combinations. You can wear the long jacket on the pants but also on the skirt. This will give a festive look. Conversely, you can wear the pants under the shorter and long jacket.
The colors are also nice for variations.
And we really like the pants in the Pied-de-poule fabric!
Model B, the longer jacket, can also be worn as an outer jacket Super "Chanel" look!

Cons:

The jackets are both very straightforward. Shapeless and 'boxy'. This could be a nice sjape, but keep in mind that this does not look good with every figure.
The woolen fabrics make this a typical winter combination.

Advanced options:
If possible: try to make some waist/shape in the jackets. This takes away the 'boxy' shape, as the Chanel jacket was once made, but will still look better.
Choose good lining material so that the jackets are comfortable to wear. You may also choose to use lining for the pants so that they will not itch.
More on this: A closer look at lining fabrics!

Summarized:
Vogue V1717 is a sewing pattern for a great outfit in real Chanellook. The garments are fairly easy to sew. We do recommend going for bounded buttonholes, or buttons for decoration and with push buttons at the back.
We would also like to point out the choice of lining fabrics: choose a fine fabric (silk or cupro silk) so that the entire outfit is comfortable to wear.

The best sewing quotes

1/1/2021

'Never underestimate the power of a woman with a sewing machine'

'I sew therefore I am'

'Beautiful things come together, one stitch at a time'

'I am not gonna buy that, I can make it !'

'Stash happens'

'I sew. What's your superpower?'

'Sewing, Coffee, Chocolates'

'Keep calm and stitch on'

'Sewing all day long'

“I am certain that a Sewing Machine would relieve as much human suffering as a hundred Lunatic Asylums, and possibly a good deal more.”
― Margaret Atwood, Alias Grace

“When pockets were first added to women’s clothing in 1913, a Paris reporter wrote, “It’s all over with men’s superiority over women.” Pockets are indeed indispensable, and they come in two types: patch and set-in”
― Claire B. Shaeffer, Sew Any Set-In Pocket

The Fabrics to Use as Linings

12/30/2020

Guestwriter: Elena Tran, BaudekinStudio

The Fabrics to Use as Linings

The purpose of a lining is to cover the construction details of the inside of the garment, any unfinished seams and also to extend the life of your clothes. Historically, lining were mostly used for warmth. You see lots of painting depicting fur linings to provide warmth to the wearer. In the 1900s, the wool lining was featured on men’s country clothing and it was intended for keeping warm during shooting and hunting pastime.
Contrasting lining on women’s clothing first gained popularity in the 1930s and it is still a favorite today. Let’s explore the fabrics used for lining the garments today.

Polyester lining
Polyester lining is the most common man-made fabric you will find in the stores. It is produced from petroleum oil and it can almost mimic the properties of cotton, silk or linen with minimal cost. Maintenance is easy. Throw it in the washing machine and voila.

However, if you place polyester and silk side by side, you will immediately feel the difference between the two. Polyester fabric almost sticks to the body when you sweat and I don’t like how it feels and how difficult it is for a novice to cut and sew this slippery fabric. In addition, let’s not forget that this synthetic fabric is not biodegradable and the discarded clothes will linger in landfills for generations. Because polyester is so cheap to purchase, customers feel that it is expendable and discard clothes or fabric without second thought. On the plus side, polyester fabric can also be produced from recycled plastic bottles, although this technology is still in its infancy.

Rayon
Rayon is also referred to as viscose, viscose rayon, or artificial silk, can also be used as lining and it is widely available in the neighborhood fabric stores. It is a man-made fiber regenerated from cellulose (a.k.a. wood from trees). Technically, rayon is called an artificial fiber because wood chips need a bit of chemical help to convert them into yarn. After the production process is complete, we end up with a beautiful silky fabric and it is a common lining material in Haute couture clothing because it costs less. It feels nice and I would almost go for it. Rayon is very soft to the touch and it absorbs moisture well. But on the minus side (and a big one for me), production of rayon is not the best ecological choice as it releases carbon into the atmosphere, salt into the water supplies and it cuts the much needed trees.

Silk Linings
Dressmakers rarely think of natural fabrics for lining because it may prove expensive. But if you are making clothes for yourself, let me encourage you to go for silk lining. Silk is produced from the protein secreted by the larvae of the silk moth as they lay in their cocoons. The only concerning part is that the cocoons are cooked with the insects still inside to begin the silk production process. However, I like the fact that the silk moth is cultivated specifically for silk production and the process of silk manufacturing is sustainable and eco-friendly. For some of you price is a factor when shopping for lining fabric. I consider that a good thing. The fact that silk is an expensive fabric makes us more careful about the quantity we purchase. Buy only the amount of material that you need for your garment, eliminate the waste, recycle the remnants into other projects and always think long term slow fashion.

There is another reason why silk is perfect to use as a lining. It feels warm in winter and cool in summer. The best silk lining choices are silk habotai and silk charmeuse because they are light enough and they are available in many shades of colours. The lining fabric can match the fashion fabric or you can choose a contrasting fabric for your design. The lining fabric can also be used as a trim on cuffs and collars for a special effect. This technique was used by Chanel, as well as by another famous designer, Madeleine Vionnet. Great designers like Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga were adamant about using the best fabrics as linings. Chanel went as far as using the expensive fabrics that the matching tops were made from as linings on her skirts and jackets.

As for the lining construction, there are rules that you learn as you sew different pieces. For example, when cutting the lining for a jacket, you design the lining slightly bigger that the garment to allow for ease of movement. That’s why you often see a small pleat in the center back of the jacket lining. Another trick is to attach the lining to the skirt by means of a thread chain. You can also quilt the lining and the main garment together. Chanel used this technique to support the loosely-woven tweed fabric on her skirts and jackets.

When you are making your own bespoke clothes, I encourage you to use the best lining material you can find. You will have a better sewing experience, more satisfaction from wearing a quality garment and you will enjoy the feeling of silk next to your skin.

BibliographyClive Hallett, Amanda Johnston. Fabric for fashion: The complete guide. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2017.
Smithsonian. Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Art. New York: DK Publishing, 2012.

Simplicity 1562, a stylish 'homewear' coat

12/28/2020

At this time of the year it is always nice to have those comfortable jackets or cardigans you can quickly put on. Just in case you have to go out of the door. Or in case you need an extra layer in the house. We have made a stylish coat that is slightly different from a bathrobe, but is not a real coat either.

Bathrobe or real coat?
You could walk around all day in a bathrobe. Especially if it is made of lovely soft terry cloth, like our bathrobes in this blog of the sewing pattern Simplicity 1562. This sewing pattern is for a bathrobe. But the pattern is just as useful for a bathrobe with more of the look of a regular coat. The only difference is that there is no lining, pockets, inner pockets, zippers, buttons etc. Nevertheless, it is an ideal sewing pattern for a nice jacket that is very comfortable. Bet this will be a favorite piece of your wardrobe or a CLASSIC!

Our inspiration
For this inner and/or outer jacket we were inspired by the many coats we saw on catwalks for the autumn and winter season. Coats were mainly worn as an extra layer and as a wrap. Wide, long coats for a complete outfit. In terms of style: big collars, shawl collars and often in a simple, classic shape. Wide, comfortable and quite casual. Jackets to 'live' in both indoors or outdoors.

The Pied-de-poule or Houndstooth design is also very fashionable this year and a timeless classic anyway. But we looked more at checkered designs because Pied-de-poule is a design that you have to love. Most people quickly find it too busy or a bit old-fashioned.

Comfort and class
This coat is therefore a combination of a bathrobe in a warm woolen fabric. The color is easy. Black and white is always good and stylish. This fabric is for sale at Budgetstoffen and cheap. With two meters of fabric you have enough fabric to make the coat.

Because the fabric is quite stiff, you don't need interlining or reinforcement. The shawl collar makes the jacket very pleasant to wear and is ideal to wear over other clothes. Whether you wear a shirt, a sweater with a roll collar or a bare neck, a shawl collar is always a good idea. The jacket closes with a simple belt. You can also wear the jacket open, but the wrap over makes the jacket nice and warm and pleasant. A lot of 'homewear' is loose hanging and the front panels often do not close. This is easy but not warm or comfortable like this jacket is.

Sewing pattern Simplicity 1562:

In terms of sizes you can clearly choose between children and adults and then also in sizes XS to XL. We recommend to take a large size so that the jacket is nice and spacious.

Simplicity 1562: Sewing level
The sewing pattern is easy to make. It is an 'Easy' sewing pattern and you can rest assured that even a total beginner can handle it. The fabric sews easily because it is not too thick, but certainly not too thin. We do recommend finishing the seams with a lock machine or a zigzag stitch. The fabric is unfortunately too thick for a French seam.

Summarized:
Do you want to make a nice jacket for indoors and outdoors? Then consider the Simplicity 1562 sewing pattern for a bathrobe. This sounds strange, but it is certainly not. You can make exactly the coat you want from beautiful woolen fabric.

Not really a coat, not even a bathrobe or a cardigan, but a wonderfully comfortable 'coat' for the winter. A jacket that is stylish enough for walking outside, but comfortable and handy enough to wear indoors instead of a bathrobe or hoody.

The jacket is easy to make and with the beautiful wool fabric from Budget fabrics you are also affordable.

Sew Your Way to Happiness: Benefits of Sewing Hobby

12/26/2020

Guestwriter: Elena Tran, BaudekinStudio

Another year has passed and 2020 was the most stressful year for all of us. I don’t know a single person who didn’t feel anxious or depressed at some point during this year. I cannot imagine how I would have coped with the pandemic blues if I didn’t have my sewing hobby which became my full-time business. When I sew, I forget everything and everyone around me. This is what the scientists call “the flow”. My studio became my sanctuary, the place to melt away the worries.

Why is sewing so good for us? I looked into a sewing hobby specifically, but any hobby can have the same positive effects. Spoon-making or pet grooming are just as beneficial.

Sewing helps reduce anxiety and depression
I can honestly tell you that when I work on my projects, the days just fly by and I feel so happy every day. And I am not the only one who feels this way. In a study of more than 3,500 knitters, published in The British Journal of Occupational Therapy, 81% of respondents with depression reported feeling happy after knitting and more than half reported feeling "very happy." (Wilson) And have you ever watches someone do the needlework? The experience is hypnotic, I can assure you.

Another study at Harvard’s Medical School Mind/Body Institute found a reduction in heart rate of 11 beats per minute and a fall in blood pressure during knitting. (Knitting, Needlepoint, Sewing, Stress reduction and Yoga) This is a very beneficial physiological response, especially for those with high blood pressure.
If these results were not enough to convince you, in another study of quilters, the participants identified that the use of bright colours in their projects had uplifting effects on their mood, especially in the winter. (Emily L. Burt) Making something pretty in beautiful fabrics and colours always helped me deal with extreme stress and winter blues as well.

Sewing is intellectually stimulating
Sewing belongs to that intellectually stimulating activity that provides constant learning opportunities. After you learn how to sew a straight skirt, you move on to another challenge to make a pleated skirt or a skirts with godets. And you can challenge yourself indefinitely. Just keep changing your projects to keep yourself mentally stimulated. Anyone who tried pattern drafting and alterations agree that they involve complex thinking and problem solving. These types of activities are the subject of an unfolding research on brain neuroplasticity (Ackerman). The idea is that our brain constantly relearns and adapts throughout our lives and it is possible to slow down the brain degenerative conditions by constantly challenging our brain to new tasks. The neuroscientists agree that constantly learning new things or starting a new hobby can prevent dementia and Alzheimer’s disease and that it is never too late to learn new things.

Sewing helps self-esteem
In addition to new learning of challenging skills which improves brain function, sewing leads to the great sense of accomplishment, improved self-esteem and satisfaction. Every time you complete a new project, you advance a step or two and celebrate the small victories. You feel even better when other people comment and complement you on your clothes. And when you daughter asks if she can borrow one of your pieces, well, that tops the cake.

Sewing helps form new friendships
I can tell you with confidence, that I formed the best friendships by connecting with the people in the sewing community. They are honestly the happiest people to be around. We share gladly and do not judge because we understand that sewing is a gradual skill- building process. You have to walk before you run and simple projects sometimes turn out to be the most difficult ones. In one of the studies of quilters, the participants reported that they formed strong friendships during their meetings and praise from others boosted self-esteem and increased motivation to complete the projects. (Emily L. Burt)
I had a similar experience when I attended the sewing courses at a local college. Our classes were so relaxed and positive. Not all sewing skills are enjoyable to everyone and there is no need pretending that sewing is all fun. I think I had to use my seam ripper a thousand times when I was in school. However, support and encouragement from like-minded people helped me get to the finish line and bring the final projects to the show and tell.

I hope that all these proven benefits will encourage you to start sewing. You don't need to get the most expensive sewing machine or fancy fabrics and gadgets.

Start small and build your skills gradually. Make sure you have good lighting setup and your work station is comfortable. Change your activities and project often to keep your interest going. Join the most fun and relaxing community of sewing enthusiasts!

Bibliography
Emily L. Burt, Jacqueline Atkinson. The relationship between quilting and wellbeing. March 2012. <https://academic.oup.com/jpubhealth/article/34/1/54/1550848>. Knitting, Needlepoint, Sewing, Stress reduction and Yoga. n.d. <https://www.stress.org/knitting-needlepoint-sewing-stress-reduction-and-yoga>. Miller, Kori D. The Psychology and Theory Behind Flow. 12 October 2020. <https://positivepsychology.com/theory-psychology-flow/>.
Sewing and Related Procedures: Ergonomics. n.d. <https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/sewing/index.html>. Wilson, Jacque. This is your brain on crafting. 5 January 2015. <https://www.cnn.com/2014/03/25/health/brain-crafting-benefits/index.html>.

How to Make Couture Fabric Covered Buttons

12/23/2020

Did you want to learn how to make couture fabric covered buttons? I will share my method with you step by step, including the right tools, fabrics and detailed demonstration. Making couture fabric buttons without a kit is easy and very rewarding.

Where to buy plastic rings: I got my on Amazon, but they are also available at fabric stores Pellon Easy Pattern is available on https://baudekinstudio.ca/

If you want to create a Chanel-style jacket and you are searching on the Internet (and on this website!), you will notice: the real vintage Chanel couture jackets often had buttons made out of fabrics. You will notice these buttons on modern Chanel jackets as well. You immediately want such beautiful and matching buttons too. And that's possible!

Fabric buttons are still 'Haute couture' beautiful!
Coco Chanel started making handmade buttons, mainly from Tweeds and Bouclé fabrics. She used fabrics because buttons were expensive. But also because the fabric buttons gave more 'couture' appearance to the clothing. The buttons and the jackets were perfectly matching and everyone knew about the making process: a time-consuming and dedicated job.
Coco Chanel started her career as a hat maker. Because of this, she knew many sewing techniques and she could handle different types of materials. She also had an eye for details, which gave the jackets something extra's, but they were never 'over the top'.

Her motto: "Simplicity is the key of elegance"

The authentic Chanel vintage fabric buttons are real treasure and not easy to buy. This is mainly because Tweeds and Bouclé are not durable fabrics and the buttons had to endure a lot.

Baudekin Studio
If you are looking for fabric buttons in 'Chanel-style', Baudekin Studio is a great webshop.

Sometimes it is possible to find fabric buttons at a market, in a fabric store, or even in thrift stores. But you have to be very lucky that they will match with the fabric. Baudekin Studio has a few fabric buttons in its range. Affordable and above all: very beautiful.

The buttons are easy to match with many fabrics in terms of color and composition. Especially the black and white Bouclé buttons, can be used with almost any Bouclé fabric. But the colored fabric buttons also turned out to be a great option for a Chanel-Style jacket. This is mainly because Bouclé fabrics are often woven from multiple colored threads. Most of the times, there is always a color to match with the threads.

The example above: which color fits better with the dark green/black/blue/yellow Chanel-style jacket? The green or the yellow? Or both?

Chic couture clothing
Fabric buttons are also often the best choice for couture outfits. The example below shows it perfectly: a bridal cape or evening dress bolero with fabric buttons. The buttons make the cape extra beautiful and it is also much more convenient to match your jewelry. Are you going for gold or silver? If the buttons of evening wear are exactly the same as the fabric: go ahead and make your own choice.

CUPRO silk is more than a lining fabric

12/17/2020

If 'sustainability' is important for you, then you probably know that 'CUPRO' silk or simply CUPRO, is a good choice in terms of fabrics. Cupro is also often seen as a cheap alternative to silk. This is only partly true. Indeed, the fabric is cheaper than silk, but it is much more than just an alternative or a cheap lining fabric.

Lining fabric - Cupro
In many stores, cupro silk is stored with the lining fabrics and at online fabric stores this fabric is also often categorized under 'lining fabrics'. Cupro is a silk-like fabric with a lovely, soft, delicate and luxurious 'touch'. It is made from a cellulose fiber produced by treating cotton cellulose with cuprammonium salt. This is where it gets its name: Cuprammonium rayon is the reference to the production process; the cellulose has undergone to become 'cupro'. Cellulose is therefore used as a raw material for cupro, usually the cotton fibers that are too short to be spun. Due to the fineness of the fibers, Cupro has a silky grip and a lovely shine.

It is very easy to drape and it drapes smoothly. It is also anti-allergenic and anti-static. Cupro is often referred to as a 'silk-like' fabric, but it has a completely different basis.

Silk versus CUPRO
Real silk is very popular, but expensive and not durable. In addition, 'vegan' people do not buy silks because it not animal-friendly. Silkworms are bred and kept in captivity. After the caterpillars have spun a cocoon, they are boiled to release the silk threads. Not a very pleasant idea and animal friendly, no matter how small a caterpillar is ...

Animal-friendly silk
There is also silk that is produced in a different way, where the caterpillars are given time to finish their cocoons and have left as a butterfly. This is called: Áhimsa silk. Ahisma silk is more difficult to weave and dye. There are other types of silk that differ in the production process and final properties.

CUPRO is suitable for:
Cupro is extremely suitable as a lining material. But cupro can also be used to create blouses, tops, dresses, gala clothes and even jumpsuits. Cupro gives a luxurious look because it always shiny and looks a bit more luxurious than satin. Cupro shines less 'hard' than satin and therefore has that chic look. It is more subtle and looks more 'couture' than satin.

The fabric is nice and comfortable to wear. Unfortunately, the fabric is sensitive to creases and stains.

CUPRO mix
Sometimes cupro is also mixed with other fabrics such as viscose. Like the mix: 55% Cupro 45% Viscose. Just like cupro, this fabric is suitable for making blouses, dresses, gala clothes, etc. The shine is slightly less excessive and the fabric looks more like chiffon than silk.

Washing and maintenance
Like silk clothing, it is advisable to wash Cupro as little as possible. It is better to air-dry it outside and only wash it when it is really necessary. If you are going to do it yourself: wash it with handwarm or cold water and do not use the dryer. Just hang up after washing and let it air dry. Even better: bring it to the dry cleaner ... Please note when ironing: do not iron higher than the medium temperature. Rather iron a little longer than too hot!

Where is CUPRO for sale?
As we said, you can sometimes find CUPRO silk between the fabric rolls in the lining fabric department. It should have a label on it. Online it is more difficult to buy, but luckily Böttger Fabric Shop sells Cupro silk in many colors. The price is not expensive and the colors are really beautiful. The photos are our favorite colors. But to be honest it is difficult to make a choice because all colors are simply very beautiful.

Chanel-Style jacket with CUPRO lining
We have already worked with CUPRO a few times and made our Chanel-style jackets with a CUPRO lining. We really liked the fanric. It folds nicely, sews well and does not slip out from under the scissors or presser foot during cutting and sewing. The fabric is also nice to combine with Bouclé because Cupro silk falls smoothly but not overly, so as is sometimes the case with a silk-look fabric or real silk. If the Bouclé is woven very loosely, as the outer fabric for the Chanel-Style jacket, we do recommend that the cupro side be reinforced with an iron-on nonwoven interfacing on pattern parts where this is necessary.

Summarized:
Cupro is very similar to real silk, but is a great budget alternative. It is also more sustainable.

Cupro cuts and sews very nicely and wears very pleasantly.

Can we come up with a negative comment? No actually not...

Neue Mode M23079; a nice stepped jacket

12/2/2020

Quilted ór 'stepped' fabrics are always very 'Chanel-like'. This is mainly because Coco Chanel liked to work with 'stepped' fabrics. The fabrics are also a bit the same style as the beautiful 'stepped' classic Chanel 2.55 bag. That is why we went looking for a sewing pattern for a 'stepped' jacket!

Neue Mode Stil M23079
Neue Mode Stil M23079 is an older sewing pattern of a fitted jacket, lined and finished with a contrast band and patch pockets. The jacket has one variation in collar (with or without collar) and one variation in pockets (with or without pockets).

Sewing level: Easy
If sewing level is specified: suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree with this. The jacket is not difficult to make and does not require any special sewing techniques. It is very nice to work with the fabric.

Recommended fabrics:
The recommended fabrics are: lightweight quilted fabrics or quilted fabrics. These fabrics are generally not that easy to find. At some online fabric stores they are categorized as: 'lining fabrics'. Make sure you order the correct quantity. You now buy the 'lining fabric' as the outer fabric and for the lining you use a different lining fabric that is not quilted. Otherwise you will get a double layer and the jacket will look more like a down jacket instead of an elegant 'stepped' jacket.

We made the jacket out of beige stepped fabric and a normal lining. We finished the jacket with black binding and used beautiful buttons. The jacket is suitable as an outer jacket but also as an inner jacket, especially if you choose the model without a collar.

Pros:

The sewing pattern is easy and does not require any adjustments
You can vary infinitely in terms of color and finish of the binding.
Excellent instructions.
Just the right length that is flattering for almost any figure.
There is also nothing to complain about on the sleeves: just good.

Cons:

Choose the right size, a 'stepped' jacket can quickly look thicker than you expected.
A lining fabric is really necessary unless you can find and use a double-quilted fabric.

Advanced options:
How about leather-look fabrics or suede stepped fabrics? Or a 'stepped' jacquard fabric? The jacket will be even more chic and elegant. You could also choose a binding with a motif or glitter in it. The result will be: a beautiful jacket for a special occasion.

Do you have a beautiful fabric and do you want to quilt it yourself? For an average seamstress that shouldn't be a problem. Buy a thicker fiberfill and sew the fabric to the fiberfill using lines. Use a ruler tool for the presser foot of your sewing machine or carefully draw the lines with chalk. A lot of work, but then you will soon have a very special and unique jacket!

Summarized:
If you want to make a quilted 'Chanel-look' jacket, the Neue Mode Stil M23079 is an ideal sewing pattern. However, it will not be easy to buy the older pattern and also to find a nice suitable fabric. But just put it on your 'wish list' and sooner or later you might get your hands on it.

Especially Model C. is 'Chanel-Style' in capital letters!

2020: The Patchwork trend!

11/29/2020

Patchwork is very 2020 ánd the future!

Thrilled to Pieces:
A survey of patchwork on the runways (Vogue)

The ultimate chic upcycling gift:
from ties to laptop sleeve

Tips & Tricks:
what to do with fabric leftovers?

Summarized:
We love patchwork !

Muslin is the perfect fabric to practice sewing

11/28/2020

It is all in the Haute couture books: designer-samples are always made of Muslin before a garment is ready to be made from the real fabric. The fabrics used for a test model is 'Muslin'. But what is 'muslin' fabric and why is it so important to make a test model?

Haute couture Claire Shaeffer's sewing patterns (for example V9099, V8991 and V8804) always have instructions: "Make a muslin toile to fine tune the fit before cutting the fashion fabric. This also helps to preserve teh pristine quality of the fabric and design; and it reduces the temptation to try on the jacket frequently during its construction."

In the couture world, using muslin fabric is a normal routine because the final fabric is often very expensive. Muslin is an inexpensive fabric, feels soft, and cuting and sewing is very easy. When the test-model is really perfect, then the muslin sample is used as the basic pattern.

In the hobby sewing world, this extra work is often skipped. That's a shame, because once you are used to make a sample with muslin fabric first, you know it is really necessary. It may avoid a lot of frustrations because, for example, the model is incorrect or does not fit properly. You have your garment completely 'finished' and it is disappointing. You are disappointed that you have messed up the beautiful fabricbecause you will probably jnever wear the garment. If you made a sample of muslin first, you could have save yourself a lot of time and money. Just make it a routine and you won't regret it.

Muslin or canvas
Muslin is a light and soft, transparent fabric, woven in a plain weave, from lightly twisted yarn, creating a recognizable crinkled structure. Often this fabric is also called 'hydrophilic'. This is because the fabric is soft and absorbs water. As a result, the fabric is often used for burp patches, diapers and baby clothes.

But the fabric is mainly used to make test-samples of garments by seamstresses from Haute couture to the hobby sewing world. The fabric is usually plain, but there may also be a print (one-colored) on it. It is also a great advantage the fabric is always in the cheaper price range.

If the design requires a firmer fabric, the sample will be made of canvas. This is an easy fabric, 100% cotton, inexpensive and a pleasure to work with. The fabric is only firmer and does not drape smoothly, like muslin does.

Exercise material
Muslin is therefore ideal as 'exercise' material. To make a sample of a Chanel-style jacket, but also, for example, to practice if you have to perform a sewing technique that you have never done before. Think of tied buttonholes, pleats, welt pockets or folding techniques. Or maybe you just want to try out buttonholes before you make them in real life on the garment piece you are working on.

As 'practice' material we bought a black muslin with a white print. We made a shirt and practiced with the collar and buttonholes. We doubted the fit of the shirt but it turned out to be good. Of course, you don't have to take a sample of muslin from a garment off and use it again as a basic pattern. Especially not if the pattern turns out to be correct and fits perfectly. It is a nice soft fabric and ideal to wear at home as 'home wear'.

Are you going to make a Chanel-style jacket? We advise you to first buy a few yards of muslin fabric and make a test-sample of the jacket. Instead of sewing, you can also thread roughly by hand. Sometimes a sewing machine have a 'baste' stitch, or you choose the longest regular stitch.

Don't tink of working with muslin fabric as a waste of materials and time: but above all it is very wise and educational. Now it turns out that the sample fits well with a few adjustments, you can put your scissors in the (expensive) Bouclé fabric and the (silk) lining. And the result will be perfect because you already know the pitfalls of the sewing pattern and you have adapted the shape.

Summarized:
It is very wise to buy a few yards of muslin fabric. You can use it as test pieces to practice sewing techniques or to make a test sample of a sewing pattern. Muslin is a nice soft fabric and never expensive. It is well worth the investment in time and money!

'Making designers trims' Claire Shaeffer, review

11/21/2020

Chanel collector and couture sewing expert Claire B. Shaeffer returns with Couture Sewing: 'Making designers trims' to teach you everything you need to know to create and attach the perfect trim to any outfit.

The devil is in the details
After spending weeks creating a couture, Chanel-inspired suit it would be a shame to skimp on the trim. With more than 280 photos paired with step-by-step instruction, Shaeffer takes the mystery out of creating designer trims. You can easily make them yourself as long as you keep an eye on the right combinations, colors and you know how to work with the materials.

Instructions
Learn how to easily swap out one trim for another when you want a fresh look without creating a whole new garment. In this book you will get great instructions. Learn to topstitch like a pro to achieve a simple yet elegant trim, apply ribbons, prairie points, piping, bands, and braids. Create intricate seamed, lining, and facing trims. Make your very own cord-filled piping and crocheted trims

About the Author
Claire Shaeffer is an internationally respected author, lecturer, college instructor and columnist. Her innovative sewing techniques and easy-to-read instructions have guided readers and students through many sewing facets of the garment industry. Claire Shaeffer based her knowledge of haute couture construction and meticulous research studying original Chanels in museum archives and her own collection. She wrote the celebrated Couture Sewing Techniques for Taunton Press and has authored and starred in a multitude of successful videos on couture sewing.

Great:

The book is informative and very useful.
Lots of information and instructions.
Good images to illustrate instructions.
Interesting photographs which are very rare.
Great book to complete your own Claire Shaeffer Collection !

Not thát great:

A bit scary for beginners because of its advanced levels.
Missing opportunities: modern self-made trims like braiding, crochet and knitting (Chanel does !), Etsy and Craftsy stuff.....
A bit out-dated examples. We really would have love to see more bold, daring and superb modern fantasy fringes/trims.

Notes:
We specially love the "Lining and Facing Trims" paragraph. Now that is Chic Couture !!

Summarized:

'Making designers trims' is a great book for Chanel-style couture lovers.
It is also a great gift for the holidays!

We hope it will the next publication of this book contain be a bit more modern, bold and daring trims and fringes. We also hope the book will have more photo's and examples of self-made trims like braiding, crochet and knitting. More Etsy and Craftsy stuff.....

'The Overlocker technique manual', review

11/19/2020

The Overlocker Technique manual, Julia Hincks is an interesting manual and a great gift for the holidays. For fast and professional edging, hemming, seaming, and decorative stitching, you simply can't beat a serging machine. This all-skill-level book is the perfect guide to make sure you get the most out of your new machine (or out of that old serger that you've never got the hang of!)

The serger or overlocker
Photographs and step-by-step instructions guide you through the essential techniques, showing you how to set up your machine, how to adjust the settings to get the best results on a range of different fabrics, and how to edge your fabrics quickly with perfect results. The troubleshooting section provides tips and quick fixes for skipped stitches, snapped threads, and uneven stitching. Also includes a buyer's guide to different sergers, providing you with advice on finding the right machine for you.

An overlocker: yes, but why?
First of all: an overlocker is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewing work so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson.

For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time.
So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. T

In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks.
And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake.

A great book:

The book is a very good basic resource.
Lots of practical material and has an incredible number of detailed photographs that go with the instruction.
Good images to illustrate instructions.
Colorful photography, really nice.
No drawings or schedules: just great and clear pictures.
Very inspiring, makes you want to lock forever!

A bit less interesting:

For a beginner: don't be overwhelmed. Just start locking !
A lot cheaper compared to a real life workshop but sometimes you miss a voice to guide you through this book.

Summarized:
We love all the beautiful examples. But it all looks a bit like a mamma or grandmother is sewing (locking) for her baby. Next edition: please provides us with more pictures of modern clothes or beautiful couture.
Nevertheless: the book is a great gift for a seamstress for the holidays!

A long Chanel-style jacket or a coat?

11/16/2020

A short jacket, a half-long jacket or a really very long jacket. You might think turning a short jacket into a long jacket is not thát difficult. Extend the fabric and you have the same jacket but then longer. But it is a bigger deal...

Long coat = other function
A long jacket has a completely different function. Long coats are usually meant to be worn over clothing to go outside. Hey, hey, doesn't everyone know that? That's right, but sometimes ugly mistakes are made in the sewing world. More spacious and wider Jackets are often underestimated in terms of sewing techniques. Sewing patterns are taken a little less seriously when it comes to long coats. Many seamstresses who have often made a long jacket, know that sewing a long jacket is just as meticulous work as making a short jacket. And that making a long jacket is not that simple at all. How often did we experience a long jacket is 'just not right'? Sadly, too many times.

A coat or a long jacket?
A coat always refers to an outer jacket. Usually it is a long classic model made of wool, loden or tweed. An outdoor jacket is more like a sporty (long) jacket made of waterproof fabrics, or a quilted jacket with a hood. In the sewing world, people talk about coats or simply: jackets. The shorter (Chanel style) jackets are often categorized with blazers or 'jackets'. Often it is confusing but follow the golden rule that coats are the outer coats and 'jackets' often the inner jackets.

How to sew longer coats or jackets?
Sometimes we notice that our project turned out to be a failure: the lining is incorrect, the shoulders are too wide and the jacket only fits well with a very thin t-shirt underneath. But unfortunately that was not the intention. Did we forgot about the instructions on the sewing pattern? Or are the fabrics just not suitable? We would like to point out that making a long jacket requires just as much love, knowledge and experience as making a short jacket. Maybe even more, because after all, you work with a lot of fabrics and materials.

A longer jacket in Chanel style? Is that possible? Yes indeed. A long bouclé or tweed jacket with a quilted lining is heavenly and you really want to wear it all year round. So nice and warm, so comfortable! It is quite a job but the reuslt will be: a piece of pure Haute couture.

Sewing patterns
If you want to make a longer Chanel-Style jacket, make sure you search for 'jackets'. Not on 'coats' or 'outdoor jackets'. If you really want to make a coat out of Tweed fabric or Bouclé to wear outside and over your clothes, look for 'cloaks' or 'coats'.

Please note: a nice long coat made of those fabrics is quite fragile and not durable. If you get caught on a splinter, a door handle or something else, the threads will easily tear out. A wolen coat is just as chic, slightly less 'Chanel-style' but stronger. Although this fabric is certainly not durable. And for all chic coatsmake sure to have an umbrella because the fabrics do not like rain and wind.

Suitable patterns for longer Chanel-style jackets:

Vogue V7860
Burda 6248
Vogue V9247
Vogue 1717 (review to follow in Dec 2020)
Knipmode 1120-10 (review will follow in Dec 2020)

Beautiful long classic coats that are suitable for Tweeds, Bouclé or Loden:

Burda 6462 and 6385
Butterick 6720 and 6385
Vogue V 1562
Simplicity 9187
NewLook 6585
McCalls 8013

Tips & Tricks:

Follow the sewing pattern just as closely as with a shorter jacket.
Determine in advance which length suits you best: just over your knees, calf length or a really long coat.
Also set the goal: a longer jacket is not useful if you have to drive or travel. A three-quarter jacket often offers more freedom of movement and convenience.
Hemming: this is an accurate work. The liner should not pull or hang out from under it. If necessary, watch videos on Youtube to learn it extra well.
Buy extra fabric: this is useful in case you decide to have large pockets on the jacket or an extra belt.
Choose a lining with a print or a contrasting color. This often gives a couture look.
The lining often determines whether a jacket is comfortable to wear or not: do not see the release of lining fabric as a final item, but as just as important as the outer fabric
Always hang a jacket on a clothes hanger and not on the loop. This keeps the jacket in better shape. How do you teach yourself this discipline? Simply by not sewing a loop in it: P

Additional options for advanced seamstresses:
If you want to make a longer jacket in 'Chanel-Style', consider quilting the lining on the outer fabric. Follow Claure Shaeffer's instructions from her book: 'The couture cardigan jacket' and you have a beautiful long Chanel jacket that wears and looks heavenly. It may be a lot of work but well worth it. Especially if you choose a Bouclé fabric that is very light or loose-fitting, sewing the lining to it is a good idea. It gives the jacket more strength and shape.

In summary:
A longer Chanel-style jacket is completely different from a jacket in Bouclé or tweeds, see photo above. Both are chic, beautiful, timeless but take a little more time to make.

Read carefully which recommended fabrics are on the sewing patterns. Choose the fabric ánd lining carefully, it will be the difference between a great result or a failed project.

#sewingisfun

11/15/2020

Have you ever wondered why sewing is so much fun? Probably not. If sewing is your hobby, or even passion, you don't think about it. But you probably got the question from someone else. "Are you sewing your own clothes?" They ask ... For some people creativity is not obvious at all. They travel, bake & cook, play sports or like to watch movies.

Sewing is fun!
Sewing is fun for sure. We've talked about "The Rival of the Sewing Machine!" In these times of sustainability, being careful with raw materials is a good goal! And having an aversion to mass production, sewing clothes and stuff yourself is a Very good thing. Take action yourself (make mouth masks when these were not available), repair stuff (bring on that too long curtain, I'll will fix it!) and especially no longer participate in the cheap throw-away clothing culture (I will make it myself!).

Not only NOW but for a long time, sewing has also been a fun hobby and activity for many of us. It's relaxing, it's a quiet time of the day, and it's very satisfying to make your own wardrobe. From embroidery to Haute couture: being creative is total mindfulness!

From Chanel to the 1920s
Our website has the theme: How to make a Chanel-style jacket yourself. We discuss sewing patterns, all kinds of fabric, styling and especially share a lot of information about Coco Chanel and the fashion house Chanel. If you like Chanel jackets or Chanel couture, you will quickly find yourself interesting fashion-history. Chanel-style jackets are timeless and have remained close to the original design over the years. It is wonderful to make a beautiful, modern Chanel-style jacket, but most of us also like to make a jacket as if it were put together by Coco Chanel herself. Real Haute couture complete with all details, interfacing work and the finishing touch. And than, we suddenly end up in the twenties and some of us are loving the Vintage style even as much!

Vintage sewing patterns are great. It is not strange to walk around in vintagestyle! The twenties are hot, just think of all those beautiful, timeless, TV series such as Downton Abbey, Black Beauty and The Crown and you know the style is beautiful and timeless. Combine the suit, skirt, blouse or jacket with modern clothing or accessoiries and you have created something very unique!

From Downton Abbey to LARP
From the twenties fashion à la Chanel, or 'love for vintage', to LARP is a small step. There are many LARP-ers (Life Action Role Players) who make their own costumes and enjoy events in which they are acting and living in other times. Usually even further back in time: the Middle Ages. Visitors to these events, festivals and fairs are often interested in everything that has to do with 'the past'.

As soon as your family, friends or colleagues know that you are a creative mind with a sewing machine, they will ask whether you want to make a medieval dress for them or a friend-of-a-friend. Or if you want to help design a complete, unique outfit. The clothes are expensive, they contain a lot of fanrics and they are not clothes that you buy very easily.

And for yourself? We shared our review about the blouse made of sewing pattern Butterick 4486. A nice blouse that you can also wear in everyday life. Especially now, 'The bubble' is a trend!

Cosplay & Fantasy

Cosplay and Fantasy Sewing patterns often fit into the same category as LARP. Many sewing patterns are intended for both purposes. Cosplay is more an escape from reality and a pair of horns on your head or a pair of extra wings on your back ... should not be a problem.

You can also make a lot of creative fun with special fabrics such as Organza, plastic, metallic fabrics and extreme shapes and colors. After all, cosplay is based on cartoon characters, superheroes, films & series and is not limited to a specific time period.

Anyone who prefers to sew daily, wearable clothes will also enjoy making a mega skirt out of tulle or a Science Fiction costume out of blue lacquer fabric. Why? Just to try out crazy fabrics, to use sewing patterns that you would normally never use. And to be as creative as never before!

Conclusion:
And then after a lot of creativity, inches of fabrics and grateful friends, neighbors or neighbors, children or customers, you feel like making something for yourself again. No, not a bathrobe, sweater or house pants, but something super chic like a real Dior suit, a Chanel-style jacket or a long gala dress for the holidays.

There is nothing better than sewing, to have some peacefull moments for yourself and to wear something that is unique, personal, homemade, sustainable and perhaps over-the-top chic or classic.
That's why sewing is so much fun!

Vogue V1605, an easy, chic evening 'dress'

11/4/2020

Holiday series with creative suggestions,
sewing patterns and fabrics

In our blogseries 'Holiday series with creative suggestions, sewing patterns and fabrics', we have a review for you about a dress by designer BADGLEY MISCHKA, published by Vogue V1605. The dress is not actually a dress, but a shirt and a skirt. The combination is very nice for the, the holidays season. It is also quite easy to sew and the fabrics are affordable.

Vogue V1605
Vogue V1605 is a design by Badgley Mischka. Badgley Mischka is a designer who makes beautiful gala, bridal and evening wear. This design fits exactly in that list. It is an elegant combination, chic but it can be worn used as a bit more casual as well. By this we mean: if you do not sew the bow permanently to the skirt the skirt is still glamour but a nice evening skirt as well. And the shirt is usuable for any occasion.
And last but not least: the combination is very comfortable because of the use of stretch fabrics.

Fabric and lining recommandations
The recommended fabrics are fabrics with a stretch content of 35%. This means that fabrics such as jersey and velvet are eligible for the shirt. And for the skirt: stretch twill and stretch satin. Note: the skirt lining has to be stretchy as well!

We have used these substances from Driessenstoffen:
Velours de panne - dark blue
Satijnstretch - dark blue
Stretch voering - blue

Cutting & sewing:
Cutting and sewing this sewing pattern requires extra time and attention. Velvet de panne is a fabric that quickly slips under the scissors, which makes it difficult to cut. Make sure you use extra pins and put weights on the fabric.
Also pay attention to the nap of the fabric. Stick to the cutting schedule on the sewing pattern. Sewing Velours de panne is easy to do if you provide special stretch needles for your sewing machine and again: good pins. It would be especially nice if you use a special presser foot for the sewing machine that ensures that the fabric does not slip easily.

The same goes for the stretch satin. It's not an easy fabric to cut and sew, but if you take the time to do it and really use more pins than usual, then it will be fine. As for the bow: reinforce this extra with 2 x interfacing! Or use a sturdy fabric as an intermediate layer. After all, the bow should stand a bit upright and not hang.
Fortunately, sewing the bow is easier than it may seem at first.

Conclusion:
We have chosen this sewing pattern because it is a dress (combination shirt and skirt) which you can create easily. The fabrics do not have to be expensive and the dress still has a beautiful festive look.

It is clear that the dress is a beautiful, and a great comfortable alternative to sweatpants or sweater. More suggestions for the 'alternative' holidays will follow.

More info:

Dressing up or dressing down?

Breaking the pattern, review

10/29/2020

Breaking the pattern; 'A modern way to sew' is a book written by the Finnish sisters Saara and Laura Huhta. They founded the Finnish sewing pattern label "Named" and are successful. Named delivers two collections per year and encourages people to sew their own clothes. The sisters are very convincing and have a great taste of (Scandinavian) style.

"The aim of the collections is to bring a new perspective to making one’s own clothes and to support ethical and ecological consuming in contrast to a clothing industry focused on fast fashion."

For the beginner
The book is written for the novice seamstress. The book is divided into an introduction, projects and additional information. The introduction contains twenty pages of basic information you need to know before getting started. Everything is clearly explained and substantiated with excellent drawings and beautiful photos.
Next are the projects: ten sewing patterns explained in detail with instructions and photos. In the extra information you can read how to adjust a sewing pattern, there is a glossary and extra information about suppliers and web shops.

Beautiful sewing patterns
The sewing patterns are printed on loose pattern sheets added in an envelope in the book. The pattern sheets are reasonably clear but will be a puzzle for the absolute beginner. If you follow the instructions step-by-step, you can do it. We think it is a pity the pattern sheets are not numbered and that the sewing patterns in the book are not described with a number referring the pattern sheets. You have to unfold all the pattern sheets to find the right sewing pattern. Fortunately the pattern sheets are chronological. For example, pattern 1 is not on the same sheet as pattern 9.

A true workshop!
The book is a great tool to learn about sewing techniques. The sewing patterns start with a simple bag. You do not need a lot of sewing skills to get the jb done. The book finish with a walkloden coat which really a lot of sewing experience. The sewing techniques are explained per sewing pattern and are building up your skills.
The instructions are worked out in approximately 10-15 pages per pattern and also offer variations for the pattern.

Scandinavian style is stylish
The strength of this book and the sewing patterns lies in the beautiful simplicity that is visually presented very appealing. Most sewing magazines often pop to a lot of sewing patterns, styles and often the clothes don't seem very easy to create. This book radiates tranquility, simplicity and minimalism. The style of Scandinavia. When you see the sewing patterns, you immediately think: Yes I can! You can also adjust the clothing to your own taste by, for example, choosing a printed fabric instead of a plain fabric, or by applying variations in decoration and style.

To try out the sewing patterns we made the bag "Nummi" in two variations and the dress "Utu". The bag has a lovely pattern and is really easy to make. Goodbye big plastic shopping bag from the supermarkets, hello! home-made spacious shopping bag from Scandinavia.
With the bag you can vary as much as you want: add sturdy fabric as a bottom, make inner pockets for mobile and wallet or embellish the bag with passe-partouts like we did with a textile print from Mindfuldrawing.

The dress is a fun pattern for a beginner. We did discover a mistake: the side of the front piece is the number of centimeters shorter that the pleat takes up. Fortunately, this error can be solved by shortening the bottom of the back piece by two centimeters. The dress has a tight fit. Note this if you prefer a comfortable dress instead of a tight-fitting dress.

Also note: the seam allowances are 1 centimeter. This is stated in the introduction to the book. Not the 1.5 centimeters as usual with Burda patterns or seam allowances included as with Vogue, New Look, Simplicity, Butterick and most other brands.

Conclusion:
The book is an absolute must-have for a friend who likes to be creative. Bur including all those beautiful sewing patterns, the book is very valuable. The sewing patterns are timeless and very stylish.

How to save (sewing) money: tips & tricks

10/28/2020

We have already written a lot about sustainability and saving money. There are many tips & tricks and 'best buys' on this website. Sewing is a wonderful hobby, but sometimes it is not easy to buy all the things you need. If you want to make clothes for yourself, interior items or Cosplay costumes for your children, you need at least fabrics, threads, linings, buttons etc. etc. and a sewingmachine....

We love to 'spot' cheap stuff, we love to discover useful tips and we love to keep our ears and eyes wide open. Therefore, especially for you, our the best tips & tricks!

All about buying beautiful (and cheap) fabrics:
Seamstresses are always looking for beautiful and affordable fabrics. Some seamstresses are more than confident enough to buy exactly the rigth amount of fabric needed for their sewing project. They really look for the most beautiful fabrics and linings for their 'Chanel-style' jacket and the costs are not important. Their argument: the selfmade jacket will be a fraction of the price of a Haute couture jacket anyway.

Other seamstresses prefer to buy a little more fabric, in case something goes wrong while cutting and sewing, and do look at the price tag or what the jacket may cost in total. The lining material, the buttons, a possible zipper and even the interfacing are carefully budgeted and collected as cheaply as possible.

And other seamstresses buy fabrics to build up supplies, for several sewing projects at the same time. Or they buy a fabrics because they are beautiful (or cheap). They might be usefull later in time when you want to create a jacket or a dress. A stack of fabrics and haberdashery in stock, is a wise investment.

The best tips:
1. Guest blog written by Elena Tran, Baudekin Studio: How to find great items in a thrift store.

2. Take a look at 'Sale' on online fabric stores. These stores may have 'Deadstock' which are worth buying.

3. Buy without thing about the seasons. Buy Bouclé fabrics in summer and summer fabrics in winter. You are guaranteed to run into the best offers and build up a nice stash of fabrics, which are seasonal but also 'timeless classics'.

4. Patchwork, patchwork, patchwork! Look especially in store and on websites of fabric stores for the coupon. Buy coupons in stock and once you've found beautifully 'matching' fabrics together, you can make whatever you want. Patchwork is trendy and cheap & sustainable!

Where to find cheap haberdashery?
Most people always think of the market when it comes to buying haberdashery. But they are often not as cheap as you wished for. They do have a lot of stock and sometimes nice offers.

Our golden tips:

Start your own haberdashery collection!

In addition, we would like to note an attentive reader pointed out the following:
"Also look in furniture stores and do-it-yourself stores in the departments where textiles and curtains are sold. Here you often find coupons and haberdashery which are reasonably priced."

Good and affordable sewing machines:
You have probably bought a very cheap sewing machine in the supermarket. The box was located in the aisle with a large orange sticker on it. A real bargain for less than hundred euros. Yess! At home the sewing machine seemed fine at first. Until you started to fiddle with the thread tension or with the cheap overlocker: you became completely horrified by the threading schedule which did not work...
Eventually the sewing machine disappeared into the closet or ended up on a marketplace. Too bad, too bad, too bad.

You may be lucky with very cheap sewing machines but in general they are very cheap because they are not made for 'quality sewing'.. Do you want to make face masks and you have no further sewing plans. The sewing machine might be right for the job. But if sewing is your hobby, save yourself a lot of trouble and buy a sewing machine that will make you enjoy it better and longer.

In our product reviews we have tested a few sewing machines for you. From cheap sewing machines to the real luxury 'workhorses'.

Best buys:
This Brother 60 Innov sewing machine is now an offer at Matri sewing machines. Free gift: a sewing trolley bag. The sewing machine is a modern sewing machine with LCD display and has many accessoiries. A sewing machine of quality for a reasonable price.

We would also like to point out: De Matri Bernette. A sewing machine made by Bernina. Ideal for the novice seamstress!
Always keep an eye on the offers from sewing machine shops. Sometimes it saves you fifty - hundred fifty euros.

Summarized:
Sewing is a wonderful hobby and does not have to be expensive. Get creative with your purchases and you will enjoy it even more.

Keep an eye on our tips & tricks blogs because we are informing you about super deals. We just love bargains, sustainability, deadstock and the latest trends.

Economical sewing: think about LED lighting!

10/26/2020

If you are sitting in your sewing studio and you are working on a wonderful garment, you simply cannot do without good lighting. Most seamstresses have their sewing machine on a table in front of the window. And they have a large extra lamp on the desk or a fluorescent tube above the sewing machine. Fortunately, the sewing machine itself also has a built-in light. You can hardly have enough light!

But how do we sew as economically as possible?

Economical is not a dirty word
For years frugal was a bit of a dirty word. Most people immediately thought of 'misers' who, did not want to spend a penny, walked around in old worn out clothes and had the strangest ideas. The 'miser newspaper' was a trade magazine for people in The Netherlands who liked a sober and simple lifestyle. The word 'consume less' quickly became a household name. The miserable newspaper was not only about frugal living, but also about using money and raw materials wisely.
There was (is) nothing wrong with that.

Sustainable and conscious
Nowadays it is a trendy again to live sustainably and consciously. The luxurious times are over and, in addition to the corona crisis, two more immense global problems are getting a giant problem as well. Climate change and social inequality. Taking a step back is no longer a luxury but a necessity for many.

We already wrote about the return of sewing in the blog: the revival of the sewing machine!

Sewing as a hobby is no longer an old-fashioned activity. It is quite the opposite: sustainable, conscious, modern and above all very creative.

How do you sew economically?
Sewing is therefore already an 'economical' activity. After all, you make something yourself and the garment is not made in low-wage countries, has been transported many times, wrapped in plastic and eventually ended up in a store. It might be thrown away if it is even not sold at the end of the season ...

Your garment is tailor-made, you have chosen the beautiful fabric yourself and the result is something personal and unique. And often much cheaper!

A few ideas and tips:

Always turn off the sewing machine when you are not using the sewing machine. (For example, you have to cut something extensively, pin or you are busy ironing everything)
Always remove the plug from the socket. This is better for the sewing machine anyway, according to Matri sewing machines customer service.
Buy an iron that switches itself off when the iron stops. (This energy-saving mode is also very safe ...) Place the sewing machine on a table in a well-lit area, preferably near a window.
Take a good look at the lighting: can it be replaced by LED bulbs?
Sewing machine lights themselves: buy the new LED lights.
The same goes for the overlocker or coverlocker. Unplug them if you are not using them for a long time and replace the internal lights with LED bulbs.

Conclusion:
It's good to think about energy-saying measurements. Sometimes simple actions can make a difference.

But above all think of energy-efficient lighting: choose LED. Replacing incandescent and halogen lamps with LED lamps is a smart move, even if the lamps are still working properly. An LED lamp is 90% more efficient than an incandescent lamp and consumes 85% less power than a halogen lamp. There are LED lamps in almost all shapes, sizes and shades.

How to choose the right sewing pattern for a Chanel-Style jacket?

10/20/2020

Whether you are an absolute beginner, a hobby seamstress with little experience, or an experienced seamstress, the success of a project often depends on choosing a good pattern. Which sewing pattern is the best if you want to create a DIY-Chanel jacket?

How to choose YOUR sewing pattern
A great sewing pattern is the most important start if you want to create a Chanel-Style jacket. It is not only about WHAT you want to make but also how you will make it. Which fabric do you need?
Which size do you have? How much time does it take to finish the project ? (Last one is important if you are creating some garment for a planned date, party or event...)

We assume you are looking around on our website because you are going to make a Chanel inspired jacket, skirt or other couture classic. But you are not sure yet which sewing pattern is the best option for your sewing project.

We will help with a step-by-step guide.

It happens to everyone; halfway a project, you realize the project is not what you had in mind, too little fabrics or lining, wrong size, your expectations were too high or you just do not have enough sewing skills yet to finish the project. No shame. Just continue with your goal and try to plan and oversee the next project a little better.

Now let's rock and roll:

1. First, think for a moment what you want
Do you want a shaped and formal Chanel-Style jacket? Or casual and comfortable? Very important! Take a look at the reviews or the backside of the sewing pattern-envelop. If you look for a tight, shaped and slim jacket, then choose a sewing pattern which is "fitted". If you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be more comfortable, maybe with front-sides open-hanging and a casual appearance; look out for the "semi-fitted" jackets.
Loose fitting is a more comfortable shape, belly freedom and not following the contours of the body closely.

Fitted jackets: Vogue V7975, Burda 6705, Simplicity 1421, McCalls M7058.

Semi-fitted jackets: Vogue V8804, Vogue V8991, Vogue V9095, Butterick B6382, Burda 6465, Burda 8949 and Neue Mode M23079

Loose fitting jacket: Vogue 9250, New Look 6496.

2. What about underlining?
The classic French Chanel jacket is famous mostly because of it's quilted lining, which offers an exclusive sense of movement, freedom and luxury. The "invention" of this jacket was innovative in the time that came after the corsets and the tight clothing code. The jacket gave the wearer a sense of freedom and made sure that it was still chic and exclusive enough to continue as a couture. Anyway, if you want to go for the classic and most exclusive version choose a pattern of Claire Shaeffer which offers the possibility and the instructions to quilt the lining.

Examples: Vogue V8804 en Vogue V8991.

The other Chanel Inspired jackets offer the normal standard way of linings. In advanced options, we will talk about quilting linings in other sewing patterns, but as said; it is only an extra option. The sewing pattern is not focused on this process, as above mentioned sewing patterns specific do.

If you prefer a jacket which is not underlined at all: New Look 6496, Burda 8949 and Simplicity 1421.

These unlined jackets are a great options for hot summers or a way to practice and to get to know your most beloved or desired Chanel Inspired Jacket.

3. Your skills or sewing level
Know your skills about sewing techniques. It might be a challenge to create a perfect, complicated and advanced Chanel jacket, but realize that it is also very, very frustrating if you need to stop your project because of problems or a lack of sewing experience.
Sewing Pattern give codes or names for the desired levels in different languages. Easy/Beginners/Basic/Facile/Very easy, Average/Mittel/Moins Facile or Advanced/Difficult/Plus Difficile.

But.....
This is based on classical training and is sometimes based on principles that seems logical but are not logical at all.

If you want to be sure; read our reviews. 'Average' is sometimes more difficult as it looks and even Easy or Beginners may require sewing techniques that you may not have mastered. The instructions on the Sewing Pattern are sometimes loud and clear. But sometimes they are not loud and clear at all.

If you want to be sure about your skills, you need to finish the project from the start till the day you will wear it with glory.... have a helping hand nearby or do not start with a sewing pattern which requires too much dedication, knowledge and advanced couture sewing skills.

4. Know your size
Needless to say... But do realize that size DOES matter. You can try on different sizes if you buy a jacket in a store. It is more common sizes are living their own lives these days because of mass-production and non-global standards.

If you start to sew (and cut the fabric) there is no way back. So be sure about your size, or even better: first create an example-size like they do at the big couture houses. Molton or mousseline fabric is ideal, or just a cheap fabric you do not use.....

5. The Fabrics
Read the Sewing Patterns requirements about the fabric and our reviews. The quantity you need is important ( do not forget to order or buy some extra fabric to create more pockets or self-made fringes), but also the kind of fabric. How a pattern or final result falls depends largely on the type of fabric used. Some patterns are great for tweeds or bouclé. Others are more suitable for wool or wool-blends.

If you want to try a fabric which is not mentioned on the sewing pattern; read our reviews. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a different type of fabric. But more often it is not such a good idea to ignore the advises.

On almost every sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals". Meaning: it will be a hell of a job to work with fabrics with squares, dots, stripes, shapes, patterns, corners, triangles, lines, diagonals on the pattern etc, to make it visually attractive. It might be work but you need a lot of extra fabrics and have advanced skills to construct the pattern-pieces to match the pattern on the fabric. It is really Haute Couture when a checkered or striped jacket looks perfectly visual symmetrical and perfect. Unless it is a big challenge; stick to choosing a fabric which will not be a burden.

On Claire Shaeffer's sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals or uneven plaids. Allow extra fabric to match even plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics."

Meaning: A yardage is a distance or length measured in yards. A fabric with nap is one what usually has a pile and will look different color shades from different angles. Velvet, velours, panne de velours ... Fabric with a one way design will also use the with nap cutting layout, so that the design on the fabric all runs in the same direction on the finished item.

6. Notions
What about buttons, fringes or adding pockets? Do you want a sewing pattern with a lot of pockets, fringes and trims? Or do you want a Chanel-style jacket which is plain...

7. It's the time of the season...
Last but not least: Think about the seasons. Are you going to sew a Chanel-Style SUMMER jacket or a warmth WINTER jacket?
Read all about the right fabric for a Chanel-Style SUMMER jacket.

Read more: Sewing patterns step by step

Sewing patterns - step-by-step

10/14/2020

In Dutch

Maybe you recently started sewing face masks, or you used to sew. Cushion covers, baby clothes or maybe a skirt. You think about yourself as an absolute beginner. You would like to make all those beautiful clothes in sewing magazines, but you are hesitating....

Do not hesitate but buy a sewing pattern of a garment piece that you would like to make, and we will help you step-by-step to realize your sewing project.

Superb sewing patterns
An other situation: Sewing patterns always look beautiful. Usually the model on the front of the envelope, looks super slim, she is a great model and the clothes seem easy to make. If the sewing pattern is indicated as 'Easy', or it is exactly what you want, you buy it!
But you have not started yet this sewing project "I will never be able to make it", you think and you regret the impulse purchase. But it will work and we help with step-by-step information.

1. Read the back of the pattern first
Most sewing patterns have all the important information on the back of the envelope, which contains the pattern. The recommended fabric is indicated and the quantity you need. Stick to this advice, because if you choose a different type of fabric, it is more likely that the sewing project will fail.

Tip: always buy half a meter of extra fabric. This allows you to correct mistakes such as incorrectly cut pattern parts or frayed edges that you cut or sewed too narrow. Moreover, it is useful to always keep a piece of extra fabric in any case in case your jacket breaks or a cup of coffee goes over it while wearing it.

Furthermore, the desired sewing level is often indicated on the envelop. Keep this in mind because as a beginner it is really not advisable to make a garment that requires a lot more sewing experience. If you are in a sewing class or you follow a workshop, you have a helping hand. But if this is not the case: stick to your sewing level and do not overestimate your experience.

Notions are also mentioned on the back of the envelope. You may need a zipper, buttons, an eye-hook closure and extra interfacings to reinforce collars and front panels.

2. The instructions of a sewing pattern
The envelope contains the sewing pattern itself and the work description/instructions. The work description usually consists of 2 to 3 large sheets. Take a look at the instructions before you start cutting.

You may feel like cutting out the pattern parts immediately, but it really pays off if you look at the work description first. If the sewing pattern is a multi-pattern, for example a jacket consisting of two models, or a skirt, pants and blouse as a total outfit, then each model has a letter. For example, if you only want to make jacket A, you can see below the drawing which pattern parts you need.

Please check carefully, on the 'body measurements' which size suits you best.

Below this chapter, there is an explanation of the symbols on the sewing pattern and the work description sheets. Read this also carefully. For example, how is the right side (outside) and wrong side (= inside) of the fabric indicated? And how can you see the grainline? This is indicated on the sewing pattern part with an arrow. Always align the arrow with the thread direction of the fabric.

Examples of how to place the cut out sewing pattern parts on the fabric are also important. This is also handy to check if youdid not missed any pattern parts and especially how to do this most conveniently. . Do not forget that 'cutting' is a specialty and at the Haute couture fashion houses the couturiers put their scissors in very expensive fabrics. They don't just do this. The pattern parts are carefully placed on the fabric and cut out.

The cutting schemes on sewing patterns for the consumer market are usually devised by a computer with a calculation program. Sometimes it may seem very unfavorable, but the thread direction is ALWAYS dominating and it is always correct.

Let's start!
Apart from the descriptions of terms and extra sewing instructions, the sewing instructions now follow each pattern part. When in doubt, take a look back at the definitions and always keep the paper at hand.

You have already cut out the pattern parts from the paper and onto the fabric. You have already copied all the important points, stars and arrows on the fabric by means of pins or chalk. But it could still be that you missed a symbol ...

Tip: Wait a while before neatly folding the pattern up again and putting it back in the envelope, but keep it handy.

Your review: The garment is ready and your sewing project is complete. If you have taken it all step-by-step, you have probably succeeded in making a beautiful, fitting piece of clothing!

Tip: Process your notes and any comments and remarks on an A4 piece and put them in the sewing pattern. You can also make notes with pencil on the sewing pattern.

Either way, should you ever use the sewing pattern again, you will have notes that you might have forgotten otherwise. For example: the sleeves are a bit too tinarrow. Or: the fabric turned out to be too 'loose' and the jacket therefore looked a bit sloppy.
Now you know that next time you will have to adjust the sleeves slightly and go for a slightly stiffer fabric.

More info:

How do you prevent failed sewing projects?

How do you choose a sewing pattern for a Chanel style jacket?

Vintage sewing patterns; problems and tips

How to make a Chanel-style jacket from fabric leftovers

10/13/2020

In Dutch

A Chanel-style jacket made from fabric leftovers? Yes, that's possible. Even though the remnants are really very small. With a little more than a meter of fabric (in total!) you can create the small jacket. Read our instructions and tips in this blog.

Fabric leftovers and sustainability
We do not like waste fabrics. We have often come up with ideas to do something with fabric leftovers. We have also already talked about patchwork. Sewing pieces of fabric together to finally make something beautiful out of the 'patchwork blanket' is a great trend! Above all, it shows that you are carefull with raw materials (and the environment), you do not like to waste fabrics and are very creative! And now you atre creating a really chic 'Chanel-Style' jacket from fabric leftovers. Like this jacket!

Sewing pattern with princess lines
We have opted for a sewing pattern with princess lines. We had found a sewing pattern ourselves in the old 'Thuismode' workshops. This jacket is short, has princess lines and requires none lining. Ideal for our project.

Alternatives:

Make sure the sewing pattern contains these elements:

princess lines is a short jacket
unlined open front panels or a closure at the front that does not require much fabric
the sleeves preferably consist of two pattern parts

This allows you to work with small pieces of fabric to create the chic little jacket.

Our Chanel-style 'remnants' jacket
We used Bouclé fabric leftovers which all match in terms of color and consistency. The fabric should not be too firm, neither too loose.

We made the back pieces of gray bouclé fabric and the fabric we liked the most: the large pattern parts of the sleeves and the middle back part.

We made the front panels from the fabric that we liked the most and we had two remnants left for the smaller parts of the sleeves.

The fringes are made of the front panel fabric and we have made long thin fringes.
Because the jacket is not lined, we finished the bottom, sleeves and front panel with a bias band (on the inside) and the fringes on the outside.

If you have less fabric, you can also choose to leave the front panels open. This always goes well with a Chanel-style jackets and makes the fringes look even better.

We did not use facings or interfacings. Because we did not use a lining, the jacket is extra warm but also vulnerable. Pay close attention to this when wearing the jacket and especially what you wear underneath. A t-shirt prevents damage; a blouse can sometimes pull threads of the bouclé fabric through the buttons and cuffs.

Conclusion:
You can do a lot with fabric leftovers. Mix the fabrics and feel free to make something unique. It's nice when the colors match well, in our case: blue, gray, red and pink, but feel free to go bold(er).

Keep this rule in mind: make sure that the fabrics match together in terms of structure and composition. (A pied-de-poule fabric or a checkered fabric would be too much of a good thing ...)

If you 'style' the jacket with plain pants, skirt and a simple white shirt underneath; then a 'color shock' is very chique and modern.

Do you still have some fabric leftovers? Create a clutch (see our green clutch) or make some extra fringes. The thicker and longer the fringes, the more beautiful and the more 'Chanel style'!

Good luck!

Tips & Tricks: what to do with fabric leftovers?

10/12/2020

Do you have a few centimeters of beautiful tweeds or silk fabrics left from your project? In this blog we present a few examples of how to use small pieces of fabric to make beautiful and fun accessories. we do not like the idea of throwing away fabrics... even if they are little pieces. Do you agree?

Beautiful fabrics
Of course we know that the entire internet already contains a lot of blogs from creative people with fantastic ideas, with step-by-step guidelines, to help you to make some lovely gifts for yourself or your beloved friends or family. We are not pretending to show on this website some unique projects which has not been around already. But our ideas are unique as they are just small objects which you are able to create in order to match the jackets or the skirt. When the jacket or the skirt is made for a client or a friend, it is a nice present as a personal "extra" and a very personal touch. The jacket or skirt IS already something very personal, but a small gift extra, makes it even more luxurious and personal.

A little (extra) personal gift
Apart from the fun of gratefulness when you give the little extra away, we are also very sensible for the idea of being sustainable and not just throwing away expensive beautiful materials.
Tweeds, Bouclé fabrics and Silk or other lining-fabrics are not always very useful to save for quilts or patchwork-projects. They are too thick, too much loose threads or silk; too delicate and difficult to match with other fabrics.

So we stick to some useful ideas to make wonderful accessories from our left-overs. If you have some ideas yourself or if you want to show your project; your wonderful bag, your beautiful laptop-cover or whatever; just send it to use and we will publish it.

About patchwork
It is possible to make lovely patchwork from fabrics as tweed and wool. Use some interfacing on the wrong side when the threads are very loose. If you iron it, it will stay together and it will work out much better. We have created some patchwork-blankets out of tweed fabrics. The blanket will be very heavy for sure, but choosing a light-weight woolen fabric as back-fabric would be a good idea. No inside extra fiber needed for sure....

Bouclé fabrics and silks are nice to save for small bags, make-up bags, eye glasses cases, scarfs, just some beautiful tablecloths or small cloths to use in in the wardrobe closet. It is nice to work with bindings or to create the fringes.
Speaking about fringes; bouclé fabrics are also very nice to save for fringes-projects. You you can tear the fabric apart and make braids with the threads or or cut them into narrow strips, sew them and unravel them. Beautiful examples are explained in the book: 'Making Designers Trims' by Claire Schaeffer.

Whatever you decide to do..
Beautiful and expensive fabrics are worth to save or to up-use for other projects. Cheap and fabrics you do not like, are perfect to save for projects when you need interfacings to bulk the fabric or just to practise a sewing technique. If you save fabrics; be sure they are be sure that they are well preserved so they will not stink, mold or moths are ruining the fabrics.
If you buy second-hand fabrics; be careful they are stored right. It is not very nice to buy fabrics from people who smoke in their studio's or galleries. The smell will not disappear....

Last but not least:
Trade or give fabrics to others. We have received out-dated and old-fashioned fabrics which were great for vintage projects and accessories. Nobody has the same style and taste. It is also very likely fanrics are beautiful for combinations with other fabrics, which you probably did not see on first sight. Take a look around at patchwork-works. Combinations are often very beautiful, but you would never buy the fabric on its own. Patchwork blankets and accessories are always nice. And even if they are totally out-dated or too ugly to enjoy; the dog will love it in its dog basket....

1. A real tailor's ham
2. Glasses cases
A nice gift from a tiny bit of tweed and fabric which was left over after sewing the Chanel-Style Brown tweed jacket.
This handy pocket is made for your eye-glasses or your phone; although for most phones it might be a bit too small.
You only have to cut out two pieces of fabric sizes: 10 cm (4"inch) x 15 cm (7"inch) and the same from the silk lining. The top of one of the small sides: round as half-circles. Sew the part apart from each other and quilt them as your jackets. Close three sides by hand with the same sewing-technique as sewing the seams of the jacket.
Top-stitch the half circles. Attach a closure or a button.
If you want the glasses case to be soft and protective for your glasses; attach a fiber interfacing before starting the quilting process.

The best tutorial: Sew a Glasses Case

3. Practicing quilting turned into small bag:

When starting to sew a Chanel Style or Inspired jacket, it is a real good advice to practice a bit on a piece of fabric and the lining behind it. This is the quilting part and once you started to quilt the lining for a jacket, you will repeat it over and over. Why ? Simply because it wears wonderful and it is a complete different and slow way of sewing, but much rewarding as well.
Sometimes the "practice-piece-of-fabric" looks good and you do not want to throw it away....
And now you know what works best; hand sewing, sewing the lining silk (inside)-side up or the tweed-side fabric up...
A small bag; made from a "practicing fabric" and the silk lining quilted on the inside. Use: glasses case, handy-case, make-up bag... whatever, it is a nice bag and always handy.

4. Make-up bag from Tweed fabric, silk lining and a metal gold zipper:

5. Glasses case from Silk fabric, lined with fleece:

Silk and lined with fleece Glasses case. We do not want to throw the silk away and it does not work for a quilt or Patchwork piece-of-art.
Make-up bags, mobile bags or glasses cases are always good.

6. Chanel-look hats and tweed-hats

A very simple sewing pattern will be very useful to create hats from fabrics-remnants. You only need a little faric to make these lovely hats. Silk lining will even make them better and sophisticated.
Here are our options.
Sewing pattern: Simplicity 6745

7. Little 'Chanel-Style' lady-vest

A vest does not need so much fabric. You can even decide to make the backside of elastic material or some different fabric. So you just need a very small amount of fabric. Sewing this in the same technique as a Chanel-jacket, makes it look beautiful on the inside too.
Sewingpattern: New Look 6914 works well!

How to make a 'Chanel-Style' jacket

How to measure yourself for a skirt