Why does a seamstress need a sewing mannequin?
Is it really such a great product?
​Is it really necessary to have your own sewing mannequin? YES!
​

A mannequin is THE best friend of a seamstress! We do not mean: mannequins such as the mannequins on display in fashion stores, but adjustable mannequins. These are indispensable to make tailor-made clothing!


Adjustable mannequins

There are many types and sizes for sale on the market. It is difficult for a beginner- seamstress to make a good choice. Most mannequins look a bit overwhelming. Do you really need the accessories and do you really need to have so many options in terms of size settings?

Read more

Chanel jackets are recognizable because of their sublime fabrics. Often tweeds and Bouclé fabrics are used.  Read the history of the Chanel-jackets and you know why!

Bouclé fabrics are always very beautiful and they have great options to play with the fringes, braiding the threads and create something really special and unique.

But Bouclé fabrics are also very tough and not easy to manage.

Read all about Bouclé fabrics and how to sew Bouclé fabrics !

Abd if you want to show us your Chanel-Style selfmade jacket, be our guest!

Choosing a good sewingpattern for your new project:
Whether you are an absolute beginner, a hobby seamstress with little experience, or an experienced seamstress, the success of a project often depends on choosing a good pattern. Searching for and choosing a good sewing pattern is always very important. It is not only about WHAT you want to make but also how you will make it.

Which fabric do you need?
Which size do you have?
How much time it will take to finish the project ?  (Last one is important if you are creating some garment for a planned date, party or event...)

A Chanel Inspired Jacket:
You are going to make a Chanel inspired jacket, skirt or other couture classic and you will be orientated before you start.
Very wise.
Therefore, with this step-by-step guide as a practical total-guide and to prevent you from forgetting an important step or thought. It happens too everyone; halfway realize that the project is not what you had in mind, too little fabrics or lining, wrong size, expectations that are too high or a level that unfortunately does not turn out to be feasible. No shame. Just continue with your goal and try to plan and oversee the next project a little better.

Now let's rock and roll:

1. First, think for a moment what you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be: Tight and formal? Or casual and comfortable? Very important ! Take a look at the reviews first lines or the backside of the sewing pattern-envelop.  If you look for a tight, shaped and slim jacket, then choose a sewing pattern which is "fitted". If you want your Chanel Inspired jacket to be more comfortable, maybe with front-sides open-hanging and a casual appearance; look out for the "semi-fitted" jackets.
Loose fitting is a more comfortable shape, belly freedom and not following the contours of the body closely.
Fitted jackets: Vogue V7975, Burda 6705, Simplicity 1421, McCalls M7058.
Semi-fitted jackets: Vogue V8804, Vogue V8991, Vogue V9095, Butterick B6382, Burda 6465, Burda 8949 and Neue Mode M23079
Loose fitting jacket: Vogue 9250, New Look 6496.


2. What about under-lining? The classic French Chanel jacket is famous mostly because of it's quilted lining, which offers an exclusive sense of movement, freedom and luxury. The "invention" of this jacket was innovative in the time that came after the corsets and the tight clothing code. The jacket gave the wearer a sense of freedom and made sure that it was still chic and exclusive enough to continue as a couture. Anyway, if you want to go for the classic and most exclusive version choose a pattern of Claire Schaeffer which offers the possibility and the instructions to quilt the lining.

Examples: Vogue V8804 en Vogue V8991

The other Chanel Inspired jacket offer the normal standard way of linings. In advanced options, we will talk about quilting linings in other sewing patterns, but as said; it is only an extra option. The sewing pattern is not focused on this process, as above mentioned patterns specific do.

If you prefer a jacket which is not underlined at all: New Look 6496, Burda 8949 and Simplicity 1421

These un-lined jacket are a great options for hot summers or a way to practice and to get to know your most beloved or desired Chanel Inspired Jacket.


3. Skills.  Know your skills about sewing techniques.  It might be a challenge to create a perfect, complicated and advanced Chanel jacket, but realize that it is also very, very frustrating to get stucked in the process because of problems with the required level of your sewing techniques. Sewing Pattern give codes or names for the desired levels in different languages.  Easy/Beginners/Basic/Facile/Very easy, Average/Mittel/Moins Facile or Advanced/Difficult/Plus Difficile.

But.....
This is based on classical training and is sometimes based on principles that seem logical but are not logical at all.

So, if you want to be sure; read our reviews or take a look around on the internet. Average is sometimes more difficult as it looks and even Easy or Beginners may require sew techniques that you may not have mastered. The instructions on the Sewing Pattern are sometimes loud and clear.  But sometimes they are not loud and clear at all.

So, if you want to be sure about your skills you need to finish the project from the start till the day you will wear it with glory.... have a helping hand nearby or do not start with a sewing pattern which requires too much dedication, knowledge and advanced couture sewing skills.

4. Know your size. Needless to say... But do realize that size DOES matter.  In a store you can try on different sizes and it is more common that sizes are living their own lives these days because of mass-production and non-global standards.
If you start to sew (and cut the fabric)  there is no way back.  So be sure about your size, or even better:  first create an example-size like they do at the big couture houses. Molton or mousseline fabric is ideal,  or just a cheap fabric you do not use.....

5. Last but not least:  The Fabrics !  Read the Sewing Patterns requirements about the fabric and our reviews. The quantity you need is important ( do not forget to order or buy some extra fabric to create more pockets or self-made fringes), but also the kind of fabric. How a pattern or final result falls depends largely on the type of fabric used. Some patterns are great for tweeds or bouclé. Others are more suitable for wool or wool-blends. If you want to try a fabric which is not mentioned on the sewing pattern; read our reviews first or take a look around on the internet. Sometimes it is a good idea to use a different type of fabric. But more often it is not that good idea to ignore the advices.

On almost every sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals". Meaning:  it will be a hell of a job to work with fabrics with squares, dots, stripes, shapes, patterns, corners, triangles, lines, diagonals on the pattern etc, to make it visually attractive. It might be work but you need a lot of extra fabrics and have advanced skills to construct the pattern-pieces to match the pattern on the fabric. It is really Haute couture when a checkered or striped jacket looks perfectly visual symmetrical and perfect. Unless it is a big challenge; stick to choosing a fabric which will not be a burden.

On Claire Schaeffer's sewing pattern a warning is noted: "Unsuitable for obvious diagonals or uneven plaids. Allow extra fabric to match even plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics."

Meaning: A yardage is a distance or length measured in yards. A fabric with nap is one what usually has a pile and will look different color shades from different angles. Velvet, velour ... Fabric with a one way design will also use the with nap cutting layout, so that the design on the fabric all runs in the same direction on the finished item.

 Know WHICH kind of fabric and HOW MUCH fabric you will need for your Chanel Inspired jacket!

Notes:  Buttons, fringes or adding pockets? Very important but sure we are creative enough to come up with that ourselves.  Choosing the right sewing pattern for the job or project is the most important start. Good luck !

Haute couture means  "high sewing" or "high dressmaking" or "high fashion". It is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted  clothing. Also mentioned: high-end-fashion. In either terms, most important is the fact the clothes are constructed by hand from start to finish.

Expensive materials
Haute couture is made from  high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabrics. The outerfabric but also the linings, interfacing and all the notions as. well.  We are talking about real Silk, real metal, wooden or pearl buttons and the best of the best notions: zippers, hocks, the label-material etc. It is in the detail, so even the price-labels, size-labels etc. are full of details, copyright protected names etc.

Work, and work....
Haute couture is sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers. They are often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. The difference between basic sewing and couture sewing is a big difference. Mainly the time invested, the location of the ateliers (or factories) and mostly the seamstress. The couture houses are working with very skilled seamstress. Before somebody is allowed to cut the expensive fabrics or to sew an ordered piece of couture by a very wealthy client: they have to be big professionals.

Haute OR couture?
Haute is the name. Haute refers to 'high  'the best' , 'the most professional' etc. Haute couture means the best of the best. Haute translates literally to "high".
A haute couture garment is:

• always made for an individual client,
  
• tailored specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance.
  
• all about the time, money, and skill allotted to each completed piece
  
• Haute couture garments are also described as having no price tag
  
• the best materials for the job
  
• no budget required
  

But what about Prêt-à-Porter ?
The real difference between Prêt-à-Porter and Haute couture: Prêt-à-Porter = ready-to-wear.  The same beautiful couture garment is not created for an exclusive client but in standard-sizes.  The clothes are for sale for those who can afford them. Well, it still means the cloths are extremely expensive, but they are for sale....

Chanel couture, if you win the lottery?
Yes, it is expensive with capitals.  We all know a lipstick costs already 30.00 euro even though you can buy a perfect lipstick for 10.00 euro of the other brands.  Mainly you pay for the label-name, the package, the smell, the luxury image and above all: a special feeling to have a CHANEL-lipstick! 
We all know about the handbags. If you own a real 2.55 Chanel handbag, you are walking around with a real investment. Most handbags starts around 5.000 euro and for some (new) models you have to get on a list, wait for months, maybe even years.
And now:  imagine the couture:  Day wear usually starts at around euro 10.000, though it does depend on the brand Chanel Haute Couture usually cost between euro 50.000-100.000, while bridal can easily cost euro 100.000-150.000. So start saving money, or better: start to learn how to create couture yourself.

HAUTE COUTURE YOURSELF!
Couture houses or labels don't mass-produce. They'll make 100 garments a year  instead of 1.000, or even instead of mass production to sell the clothes allover the world.... So now you understand WHY the real Haute couture is so extremely expensive.

The choice between real couture and mass-production cheap clothes is easy. you have to get dressed, so you have to buy what's available down the streets or on the internet.

BUTTTT...... start sewing yourself and you are able to create your own Haute couture.

• Does the clothes fitt? MAKE them to fit!
  
• Is the material good quality? BUY good quality materials yourself!
  
• Everybody is walking around in the same clothes...  MAKE something special and personal!
  
• Can I afford a real beautiful jacket or fitting dress?  YES you can!
  

MORE INFO

13 reasons why you should make your own Chanel-style jacket
How to know if you have a real Vintage-Chanel jacket or a fake one?

WHY you need an overlocker and WHICH overlocker?
We will answer loud and clear and help you to decide which overlocker works best for you.

An overlocker: do you really need an other sewingmachine?
First of all: it is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewingwork so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson.

For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time.

So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. The result will be the difference between: "Nice jacket, mmm ... homemade?" And "Wowwwww, such a nice jacket. You are kidding me, did you make it really yourself ???”

In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks.
And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake.

But we won’t tell anyone, because you have just saved a huge amount of money by making your own curtains...

Why do you need a lock machine?
For all those things that an overlocker does and a sewing machine does not. Or maybe the sewing machine is able to the job but you need special feet. And above all: an overlocker is cutting and sewing at the same time.
With an overlocker in addition to a sewing machine, you create beautiful sewingwork and it definitely looks more professional.

Which overlocker do you need?
Overlockers are for sale in different price ranges.

The cheapest is around 200-300 euros and the most expensive are around 1000 euros.

The difference between the cheaper variants and the expensive ones is often in the fact that an expensive overlocker has an air pump threading system.
The threads are blown through the machine, on the way to the end at the needles. This is especially easy for people who are less handy or who don't have the patience to manage the threading themselves.

The expensive overlockers often have more options in terms of stitches and some options are automatically. The same as with a sewing machines. The more expensive the sewing machine, the more options and possibilities.

Professional results
Often the remark "Did you make it yourself..." does not feel like a compliment. Somehow people are noticing the difference between self-made clothes and the stuff you buy in a store. But as soon as you start working with an overlocker, you will no longer hear these words. Why not? Because your sewingwork is now so precisely finished; it looks very professional!

Let’s start adding beautiful labels with your own name or "self-made" on the clothes, because from now on, nobody believes it anymore. With an overlocker: your sewingwork looks like Haute Couture Yourself.
And "Oh wow, did you really make it yourself???" becomes a very big compliment! And you will answer very proudly: "YESSsss!"

MORE INFO:

The best buy: Overlocker Lewenstein 700DE

Haute couture means  "high sewing" or "high dressmaking" or "high fashion". It is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted  clothing. Also mentioned: high-end-fashion. In either terms, most important is the fact the clothes are constructed by hand from start to finish.

Expensive materials
Haute couture is made from  high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabrics. The outerfabric but also the linings, interfacing and all the notions as. well.  We are talking about real Silk, real metal, wooden or pearl buttons and the best of the best notions: zippers, hocks, the label-material etc. It is in the detail, so even the price-labels, size-labels etc. are full of details, copyright protected names etc.

Work, and work....
Haute couture is sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers. They are often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. The difference between basic sewing and couture sewing is a big difference. Mainly the time invested, the location of the ateliers (or factories) and mostly the seamstress. The couture houses are working with very skilled seamstress. Before somebody is allowed to cut the expensive fabrics or to sew an ordered piece of couture by a very wealthy client: they have to be big professionals.

Haute OR couture?
Haute is the name. Haute refers to 'high  'the best' , 'the most professional' etc. Haute couture means the best of the best. Haute translates literally to "high".
A haute couture garment is:

• always made for an individual client,
• tailored specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance.
• all about the time, money, and skill allotted to each completed piece
• Haute couture garments are also described as having no price tag
• the best materials for the job
• no budget required

But what about Prêt-à-Porter ?
The real difference between Prêt-à-Porter and Haute couture: Prêt-à-Porter = ready-to-wear.  The same beautiful couture garment is not created for an exclusive client but in standard-sizes.  The clothes are for sale for those who can afford them. Well, it still means the cloths are extremely expensive, but they are for sale....

Chanel couture, if you win the lottery?
Yes, it is expensive with capitals.  We all know a lipstick costs already 30.00 euro even though you can buy a perfect lipstick for 10.00 euro of the other brands.  Mainly you pay for the label-name, the package, the smell, the luxury image and above all: a special feeling to have a CHANEL-lipstick! 
We all know about the handbags. If you own a real 2.55 Chanel handbag, you are walking around with a real investment. Most handbags starts around 5.000 euro and for some (new) models you have to get on a list, wait for months, maybe even years.
And now:  imagine the couture:  Day wear usually starts at around euro 10.000, though it does depend on the brand Chanel Haute Couture usually cost between euro 50.000-100.000, while bridal can easily cost euro 100.000-150.000. So start saving money, or better: start to learn how to create couture yourself.

HAUTE COUTURE YOURSELF!
Couture houses or labels don't mass-produce. They'll make 100 garments a year  instead of 1.000, or even instead of mass production to sell the clothes allover the world.... So now you understand WHY the real Haute couture is so extremely expensive.

The choice between real couture and mass-production cheap clothes is easy. you have to get dressed, so you have to buy what's available down the streets or on the internet.

BUTTTT...... start sewing yourself and you are able to create your own Haute couture.

• Does the clothes fitt? MAKE them to fit!
• Is the material good quality? BUY good quality materials yourself!
• Everybody is walking around in the same clothes...  MAKE something special and personal!
• Can I afford a real beautiful jacket or fitting dress?  YES you can!

MORE INFO

13 reasons why you should make your own Chanel-style jacket
How to know if you have a real Vintage-Chanel jacket or a fake one?
---------------------------

An overlocker or a coverlock machine?

Why does a seamstress needs an overlocker?  If you are sewing clothes and want to give the results professional appearance, you definitely need an overlocker. An overlocker and a sewing machine are the perfect combination for a seamstress. You need the sewing machine for the sewing work and an overlocker for the perfect fishing touch. It is though possible to sew without an overlocker, but the result will never be as beautiful and professional as you would like it to be.

The finishing touch is guaranteed with an overlocker. Nicely cut and overlocked hems and edges. Beautiful ‘self-made’ clothes!

An overlocker:
If you have decided to buy an overlocker, you suddenly notice the term "coverlock". Or "cover stitch machine" or "coverlock-combination". Help, what does it mean? Are these machines the same? Or are we talking about two entirely different machines with their own specific functions? Don't panic, we'll explain it to you:

Why do you need an overlocker:
An overlocker or also known as a "lockmachine" is used to sew stretchable fabrics together and to finish with the 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch. This gives your sewing-work a professional look. You can also easily finish woven or frayed fabrics.In addition, the lockmachine also makes blind hems, neat zoom edges and decorative edges in multiple variations. The overlocker cuts and sews at the same time. Turn any item of clothing inside out and look at the seams: neatly and straightly finished with an overlocker.
An overlocker is a supplement to your sewing machine but not a replacement.

What about cover stitches:
You often hear the terms ‘cover stitches’ when sewing with stretchy fabrics such as stretch fabrics for a t-shirt, sweater or beautiful jersey dress. Jeans fabrics are nowadays more elastic than ever. But those fabrics are difficult to finish and no matter how you try, the result of the sewing work will look like "self-made". This should be a compliment, but always feels a bit like: not thát nice; it is not the stuff you buy in a store...

Cover stitches are those stitches you notice at the bottom or at the neck of a t-shirt. On the right side of the fabric you will see a double row of stitches and loops at the back. This stitch is extremely stretchable and the best option for finishing stretch fabrics. It is really a very professional hem that looks like two rows of stitching on the top and a serger-like stitch on the back. The benefit of a cover stitch is its stretch ability and the covering of the raw edge all in one pass. You may have thought that these are always made by factory-machines, but that is not truth. Or maybe it is true, but you can cover stitch at home!

A coverlock machine:
With a cover lock machine you can make those stitches and finish your sewing nicely!
BUT: The cover stitch can only be made on coverlock machines and on combination overlocker-coverlock machines and not on a regular lock machine. (Unless the lockmachine does have the option: look in the manual for ‘cover stitching’, normally these lockmachines are more expensive than the normal lockmachines)

A coverlock machine is also called a Coverstitch or a covermachine.

Overlocker or coverlock machine?
The distinction is therefore fairly simple. A lock machine is doing better cutting and locking work. A cover lock machine does the typical cover stitches that are used for zoom edges. A combination of a lock machine and coverlock also exists. However, these machines are more complicated to use (and more expensive). A normal lockmachine and a separate coverlock machine works a lot better and more efficiently. You don't have to change the overlocker in terms of settings to make the cover stitches.

Your sewing equipment are your best friends!
If it still not loud and clear: think of an oven. You can heat up food in an oven, as well as in a microwave. Yet these are both different processes for preparing a tasty meal. An oven-microwave combination also exists. Make sure that you properly switch from the one to the other function as you do not want a melted frozen meal including the foil or package. In either ways: if the result should be a nice delicious meal for the whole family, with both heating and preparing-options you have a bigger chance of success and you buy a piece ( = both machines) of convenience.

Home-made!
Let's just stick to the sewing work. Imagine that you want to make a nice jersey summer dress. You are sewing the dress with a sewingmachine, then finish the seams with an overlocker. The coverlock machine does the final work: the dress is beautifully hemmed with cover stitches and now looks perfect. “Did you really make it yourself?” are friends asking you, because nobody will believe it !