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How to make a Chanel-Style jacket


All about the Chanel jacket, creating your own Chanel-Style jacket,
couture book reviews and products reviews*

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An overlocker for the perfect finishing touch

5/21/2019

 
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WHY you need an overlocker and WHICH overlocker?
We will answer loud and clear and help you to decide which overlocker works best for you.


An overlocker: do you really need an other sewingmachine?
First of all: it is not a sewingmachine. A (good!) sewing machine can do almost anything, but an overlocker is a the dessert after a delicious meal. The finishing touch, the whipped cream on the cake, the golden thread that makes your sewingwork so professional finished. Do we know more metaphors? Probably, but let's stick to the (sewing) lesson.

For example, an overlocker can sew elastic materials together and finish with a 3 or 4 thread-stitches without any difficulty. For example: these stitches at the end of a t-shirt. Turn your t-shirt or sweater inside out and take a look down. So now you know why! Even the best seamstress in the world can't get it done with a sewing machine. An overlocker sews and CUTS the fabric at the same time.

So put those zigzag scissors away and from now on finish your own clothing with an overlocker. The result will be the difference between: "Nice jacket, mmm ... homemade?" And "Wowwwww, such a nice jacket. You are kidding me, did you make it really yourself ???”


In addition, an overlocker also creates decorative seams, even threads beads or pearls on the fabric and is able to do a lot more magical tricks.
And imagine you are working with a sewing machine to deal with a huge piece of fabric that should become a curtain: an overlocker would turn the big job into a piece of cake.

But we won’t tell anyone, because you have just saved a huge amount of money by making your own curtains...

Why do you need a lock machine?
For all those things that an overlocker does and a sewing machine does not. Or maybe the sewing machine is able to the job but you need special feet. And above all: an overlocker is cutting and sewing at the same time.
With an overlocker in addition to a sewing machine, you create beautiful sewingwork and it definitely looks more professional.


Which overlocker do you need?
Overlockers are for sale in different price ranges.

The cheapest is around 200-300 euros and the most expensive are around 1000 euros.

The difference between the cheaper variants and the expensive ones is often in the fact that an expensive overlocker has an air pump threading system.
The threads are blown through the machine, on the way to the end at the needles. This is especially easy for people who are less handy or who don't have the patience to manage the threading themselves.


The expensive overlockers often have more options in terms of stitches and some options are automatically. The same as with a sewing machines. The more expensive the sewing machine, the more options and possibilities.

Professional results
Often the remark "Did you make it yourself..." does not feel like a compliment. Somehow people are noticing the difference between self-made clothes and the stuff you buy in a store. But as soon as you start working with an overlocker, you will no longer hear these words. Why not? Because your sewingwork is now so precisely finished; it looks very professional!

Let’s start adding beautiful labels with your own name or "self-made" on the clothes, because from now on, nobody believes it anymore. With an overlocker: your sewingwork looks like Haute Couture Yourself.
And "Oh wow, did you really make it yourself???" becomes a very big compliment! And you will answer very proudly: "YESSsss!"

MORE INFO:

The best buy: Overlocker Lewenstein 700DE

All about sewingmagazines

5/15/2019

 
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Read all about the sewing-magazines in Europe.
This article is in the Dutch Language.  But soon we will update the article in the English Language and attach even more sewing-magazines.
You al welcome to send information about them all.

All about Sewing mannequins

5/14/2019

 
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A mannequin is THE best friend of a seamstress! We do not mean: mannequins such as the mannequins on display in fashion stores, but adjustable mannequins. These are indispensable to make tailor-made clothing!
Adjustable mannequins
There are many types and sizes for sale on the market. It is difficult for a beginner- seamstress to make a good choice. Most mannequins look a bit overwhelming. Do you really need the accessories and do you really need to have so many options in terms of size settings?

Too many choices? 
Which mannequin is your best-buy? What is important to notice and how do you know the difference between a good mannequin and a less good mannequin? It is important to think carefully before you are going to buy the mannequin. Do you sew clothes exclusively for yourself or for customers?

Time-saver and a critical eye
A mannequin is a handy tool, not only because it will save many fitting sessions (=time and money), but also because you can continuously fit the clothing. Viewing the mannequin from a distance, ensures your critically eye at the clothing. Moreover, it is a lot more convenient to pin off clothing. In particular, consider the benefits of tailoring the back nicely. No matter how creative and lean you are; it has never been possible for a seamstress to fit the in front of a mirror ....
​We have made an overview with points for attention
  • Please note that if you are looking for an adjustable mannequin, you are not looking for a "mannequin" that is on display in fashion stores to show clothing. Look especially at sewing stores and web stores for the sewing and hobby world. 
  • In terms of naming it changes quite a bit on the internet. In English a sewing mannequin is usually called "Sewing mannequin" but it is also called a manikin, dummy, lay figure or dress form.
  • It seems logical but: do you want a man's or women's mannequin? Gender neutral nowadays also exists, but usually the mannequins are nevertheless classified according to 'men' or 'lady' body shapes.
  • Do you want a larger size or a smaller size? The sizes are very important: you don't just 'make' larger sizes from an S-size. Conversely, too: you cannot adjust an L-mannequin to an S or XS size. The adjustability is more in the mutual proportions of the body parts than in clothing sizes as we are used to.
  • Nobody is perfect. A mannequin that has the ideal size is nice and nice, but a mannequin that is easily adjustable in several places, at least 8, (also think of the neck and back length) is the ideal friend of every dressmaker!
  • Will the mannequin get a permanent place or will you move the mannequin often? Nothing is as annoying as the standard on which the doll stands, constantly having to 'make' it again. With many mannequins, the 'feet' consist of three tubes that are perfectly stable, but fall apart as soon as you lift the mannequin. In this case it is really better to buy a fixed foot / standard.
  • In terms of color: do you want a striking red mannequin as an eye-catcher in your studio? Or would you prefer a black dress that looks great on that wedding dress? Or would you prefer a gray one with is more decent? The gray one is also more pleasant in case you often put the clothes on the photo ...
  • An absolute must: buy an adapter with it. Especially if you often make pants and skirts, it is nice that you do not always have to remove the mannequin 's body from the standard. You can also move the adapter to the left or right so that you can play the trouser legs neatly one by one.
  • Last but not least: buy a mannequin that is covered with good fabric. The fabric is very important because you don't want the clothes to slip off or your pins to disappear. Or the reverse: the material is difficult to pin and it just does not cooperate.
  • Last but not least: the prices vary greatly but one thing is for sure: you often buy a mannequin once. So it is really worth the investment to buy a good mannequin that will last for years.​
Facts and stories

A mannequin (also called a manikin, dummy, lay figure or dress form) is an often articulated doll used by artists, tailors, dressmakers, window-dressers and others especially to display or fit clothing.

If you need help marking hems or particular skirts; a sewing mannequin is the best help you can get.
Also if you sew for clients: a mannequin is perfect to fit the clothes every time needed. Most mannequins have several sizes-options, sometimes even 8 or more.
'No-body' has the perfect body; sewing mannequins are a great help for fitting clothes on bodies which are not-standard sizes.

While these forms generally have a much higher price tag (usually between $100and $1,000), their features and longevity significantly outweigh those of the standard display versions.
For one, professional dress forms feature more accurate proportions and are available in a variety of sizes.

Fashion designers sometimes use a technique called draping when designing and sewing garments. Basically, it involves draping fabric around a dress form and pinning it into the desired shape.
Retailers use various techniques to display their products so as to attract the potential buyers. Mannequins, help the retailers to draw the customers to their stores. ...
​They are important tools of retail business.
They first communicate with the customers through visual merchandising.
​
Every Couture-house owns a lot of sewing-mannequins and some sewing mannequins are even labelled and exclusively for important clients. If the client gain weight, she has to inform the couture-house...

The best buy: Sewing Mannequin ' Sierra' & Mannequin adaptor

5/14/2019

 
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The best buy:
Sewing Mannequin ' Sierra' 
&
Mannequin adaptor

Review:
Delivery: within 24 hours 
Package: Light-weight box (5 kg.) 70 x 37 x 23 cm.
Manual: 4 languages (EN, DU, SP and FR): easy 
and clear drawings 

​The mannequin - or ' dressform' has a lot of options for creating the perfect size. The more the better! 

It is also very stable, which we love. Nothing more frustrating than a mannequin with difficult 'loose' feet. A mannequin is a seamstress best friend, or girlfriend and normally we are very careful with our equipment, but it has to be said: moving a mannequin around is something everybody does. Easy transport (without loosing the feet on the way) is really necessary. Sierra has a great stable standard without getting heavy.
The standard is small enough so that you do not stumble over it when you are fitting the clothes and have to walk around the doll.

Also a big pro is the nylon-foam-fabric on Sierra.  It is perfect to fit the clothes on it, without it slipping away. Even silk remains on its place. It is also easy to pin and for draping clothes.

We love the neutral grey color. The grey color allows you to concentrate on the clothes. It is also a great non-color if you need to photograph your creations. ​

Last but not least: The best buy!

New look 6028, a great basic pattern for a Chanelstyle jacket

5/8/2019

 
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New look 6028 is a sewingpattern published by New Look. New look sewing patterns are always easy to make, nice and modern. New Look 6028 also has a surprise in store for you: it is a great sewing pattern to use if you want to make something from all your fabric leftovers.

New Look 6028

The New Look sewing pattern is a pattern for a lined jacket with princess lines and one-piece sleeves. The jacket is suitable for the fabrics: lightweight demin, pique, seersucker, twill, lightweight wool, wool blends, jacquards, brocade, satin, linen and linen blends. You will have a lot of options if you want to choose your favorite fabric! The jacket is great for the summer as well as for the winter.

Sewing level: easy

The sewing pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree. The sewing pattern has no pitfalls or unpleasant surprises.

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We used this sewing pattern for our project; what to do with remnants of fabric. We had a few fabric leftovers of lightweight wool and bouclé wool. The colors matched well and so we searched or a sewing pattern with princess lines, two-piece sleeves, an unlined jacket and especially a short jacket.

New Look 6028 came in a nice direction, although the jacket is lined and the sleeves consist of one part. With a little creativity, we managed to make the jacket, unlined, from the fabric remnants.

New Look 6028 is also very suitable for making one type of fabric with a nice lining. We especially like version A. It is a typical classic Chanel-style jacket, hangs open and is finished with beautiful fringes and edges.

Benefits:
  • The pattern has princess seams. A princess seam runs the length of both breasts and gives a great shape to a jacket. The back also has princess seams, so you can shape the back nicely. The shape is therefore nice.
  • Simple pattern, also suitable for beginners
  • Nice basic pattern for being creative!
  • Nice long sleeves (Model D) ideal for people with long arms.

Not such a great benefits:

  • The neckline is very low (Model A, B and C). Chanel style jackets often have a higher neckline. (we have therefore adjusted this)
  • The V-neck (Model C and D) looks a bit 'cheap'.
  • The sleeves (Model D) are way too long for people with normal arm lengths.
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Summarized:
New Look 6028 is a wonderful basic pattern. It is really a short jacket and looks especially great for summertime. The jacket can also be made in Bouclé fabrics. A closure at the front, instead of hanging open,  would fit better.

Should this be your very first experiment to make a jacket in 'Chanel style' ..? Then it will probably work!

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    This website is made by Dutch people. English is not our native language.We are sorry if there are language errors or imperfections.
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  • Home
    • Contact
    • Disclaimer (EN)
    • Disclaimer (NL)
  • Blog (NL)
  • Blog (EN)
  • Sewing Patterns
    • Sewing Patterns by number
    • The Classics
    • Cosplay, LARP & Fantasy
  • Book Reviews
    • Couture and Chanel books
    • (Couture) Sewing Books
    • Valuable sewing books
  • Sewing Guide
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Sewing a Chanel Style Jacket
    • Fantastic Fabrics (EN) - Stoffenkennis (NL)
    • Sustainable ideas
    • LARP & Cosplay >
      • Haute Couture, LARP en Cosplay
    • Baudekin Studio
    • Advanced Sewing Projects >
      • What is real Haute Couture?
      • Couture Sewing Techniques
      • Couture Sewing Techniques versus Basic Techniques
  • Chanel-Style
    • Chanel-Style Styling
    • Authentic versus Fake Chanel jackets
    • Chanel Cardigan or Jacket ?
    • Video's about Chanel