Guestwriter: Elena Tran, BaudekinStudio
The Fabrics to Use as Linings
The purpose of a lining is to cover the construction details of the inside of the garment, any unfinished seams and also to extend the life of your clothes. Historically, lining were mostly used for warmth. You see lots of painting depicting fur linings to provide warmth to the wearer. In the 1900s, the wool lining was featured on men’s country clothing and it was intended for keeping warm during shooting and hunting pastime.
Contrasting lining on women’s clothing first gained popularity in the 1930s and it is still a favorite today. Let’s explore the fabrics used for lining the garments today.
Polyester lining is the most common man-made fabric you will find in the stores. It is produced from petroleum oil and it can almost mimic the properties of cotton, silk or linen with minimal cost. Maintenance is easy. Throw it in the washing machine and voila.
However, if you place polyester and silk side by side, you will immediately feel the difference between the two. Polyester fabric almost sticks to the body when you sweat and I don’t like how it feels and how difficult it is for a novice to cut and sew this slippery fabric. In addition, let’s not forget that this synthetic fabric is not biodegradable and the discarded clothes will linger in landfills for generations. Because polyester is so cheap to purchase, customers feel that it is expendable and discard clothes or fabric without second thought. On the plus side, polyester fabric can also be produced from recycled plastic bottles, although this technology is still in its infancy.
Rayon is also referred to as viscose, viscose rayon, or artificial silk, can also be used as lining and it is widely available in the neighborhood fabric stores. It is a man-made fiber regenerated from cellulose (a.k.a. wood from trees). Technically, rayon is called an artificial fiber because wood chips need a bit of chemical help to convert them into yarn. After the production process is complete, we end up with a beautiful silky fabric and it is a common lining material in Haute couture clothing because it costs less. It feels nice and I would almost go for it. Rayon is very soft to the touch and it absorbs moisture well. But on the minus side (and a big one for me), production of rayon is not the best ecological choice as it releases carbon into the atmosphere, salt into the water supplies and it cuts the much needed trees.
Dressmakers rarely think of natural fabrics for lining because it may prove expensive. But if you are making clothes for yourself, let me encourage you to go for silk lining. Silk is produced from the protein secreted by the larvae of the silk moth as they lay in their cocoons. The only concerning part is that the cocoons are cooked with the insects still inside to begin the silk production process. However, I like the fact that the silk moth is cultivated specifically for silk production and the process of silk manufacturing is sustainable and eco-friendly. For some of you price is a factor when shopping for lining fabric. I consider that a good thing. The fact that silk is an expensive fabric makes us more careful about the quantity we purchase. Buy only the amount of material that you need for your garment, eliminate the waste, recycle the remnants into other projects and always think long term slow fashion.
There is another reason why silk is perfect to use as a lining. It feels warm in winter and cool in summer. The best silk lining choices are silk habotai and silk charmeuse because they are light enough and they are available in many shades of colours. The lining fabric can match the fashion fabric or you can choose a contrasting fabric for your design. The lining fabric can also be used as a trim on cuffs and collars for a special effect. This technique was used by Chanel, as well as by another famous designer, Madeleine Vionnet. Great designers like Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga were adamant about using the best fabrics as linings. Chanel went as far as using the expensive fabrics that the matching tops were made from as linings on her skirts and jackets.
As for the lining construction, there are rules that you learn as you sew different pieces. For example, when cutting the lining for a jacket, you design the lining slightly bigger that the garment to allow for ease of movement. That’s why you often see a small pleat in the center back of the jacket lining. Another trick is to attach the lining to the skirt by means of a thread chain. You can also quilt the lining and the main garment together. Chanel used this technique to support the loosely-woven tweed fabric on her skirts and jackets.
When you are making your own bespoke clothes, I encourage you to use the best lining material you can find. You will have a better sewing experience, more satisfaction from wearing a quality garment and you will enjoy the feeling of silk next to your skin.
BibliographyClive Hallett, Amanda Johnston. Fabric for fashion: The complete guide. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2017.
Smithsonian. Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Art. New York: DK Publishing, 2012.
At this time of the year it is always nice to have those comfortable jackets or cardigans you can quickly put on. Just in case you have to go out of the door. Or in case you need an extra layer in the house. We have made a stylish coat that is slightly different from a bathrobe, but is not a real coat either.
Bathrobe or real coat?
You could walk around all day in a bathrobe. Especially if it is made of lovely soft terry cloth, like our bathrobes in this blog of the sewing pattern Simplicity 1562. This sewing pattern is for a bathrobe. But the pattern is just as useful for a bathrobe with more of the look of a regular coat. The only difference is that there is no lining, pockets, inner pockets, zippers, buttons etc. Nevertheless, it is an ideal sewing pattern for a nice jacket that is very comfortable. Bet this will be a favorite piece of your wardrobe or a CLASSIC!
For this inner and/or outer jacket we were inspired by the many coats we saw on catwalks for the autumn and winter season. Coats were mainly worn as an extra layer and as a wrap. Wide, long coats for a complete outfit. In terms of style: big collars, shawl collars and often in a simple, classic shape. Wide, comfortable and quite casual. Jackets to 'live' in both indoors or outdoors.
The Pied-de-poule or Houndstooth design is also very fashionable this year and a timeless classic anyway. But we looked more at checkered designs because Pied-de-poule is a design that you have to love. Most people quickly find it too busy or a bit old-fashioned.
Comfort and class
This coat is therefore a combination of a bathrobe in a warm woolen fabric. The color is easy. Black and white is always good and stylish. This fabric is for sale at Budgetstoffen and cheap. With two meters of fabric you have enough fabric to make the coat.
Because the fabric is quite stiff, you don't need interlining or reinforcement. The shawl collar makes the jacket very pleasant to wear and is ideal to wear over other clothes. Whether you wear a shirt, a sweater with a roll collar or a bare neck, a shawl collar is always a good idea. The jacket closes with a simple belt. You can also wear the jacket open, but the wrap over makes the jacket nice and warm and pleasant. A lot of 'homewear' is loose hanging and the front panels often do not close. This is easy but not warm or comfortable like this jacket is.
Sewing pattern Simplicity 1562:
In terms of sizes you can clearly choose between children and adults and then also in sizes XS to XL. We recommend to take a large size so that the jacket is nice and spacious.
Simplicity 1562: Sewing level
The sewing pattern is easy to make. It is an 'Easy' sewing pattern and you can rest assured that even a total beginner can handle it. The fabric sews easily because it is not too thick, but certainly not too thin. We do recommend finishing the seams with a lock machine or a zigzag stitch. The fabric is unfortunately too thick for a French seam.
Do you want to make a nice jacket for indoors and outdoors? Then consider the Simplicity 1562 sewing pattern for a bathrobe. This sounds strange, but it is certainly not. You can make exactly the coat you want from beautiful woolen fabric.
Not really a coat, not even a bathrobe or a cardigan, but a wonderfully comfortable 'coat' for the winter. A jacket that is stylish enough for walking outside, but comfortable and handy enough to wear indoors instead of a bathrobe or hoody.
The jacket is easy to make and with the beautiful wool fabric from Budget fabrics you are also affordable.
Guestwriter: Elena Tran, BaudekinStudio
Another year has passed and 2020 was the most stressful year for all of us. I don’t know a single person who didn’t feel anxious or depressed at some point during this year. I cannot imagine how I would have coped with the pandemic blues if I didn’t have my sewing hobby which became my full-time business. When I sew, I forget everything and everyone around me. This is what the scientists call “the flow”. My studio became my sanctuary, the place to melt away the worries.
Why is sewing so good for us? I looked into a sewing hobby specifically, but any hobby can have the same positive effects. Spoon-making or pet grooming are just as beneficial.
Sewing helps reduce anxiety and depression
I can honestly tell you that when I work on my projects, the days just fly by and I feel so happy every day. And I am not the only one who feels this way. In a study of more than 3,500 knitters, published in The British Journal of Occupational Therapy, 81% of respondents with depression reported feeling happy after knitting and more than half reported feeling "very happy." (Wilson) And have you ever watches someone do the needlework? The experience is hypnotic, I can assure you.
Another study at Harvard’s Medical School Mind/Body Institute found a reduction in heart rate of 11 beats per minute and a fall in blood pressure during knitting. (Knitting, Needlepoint, Sewing, Stress reduction and Yoga) This is a very beneficial physiological response, especially for those with high blood pressure.
If these results were not enough to convince you, in another study of quilters, the participants identified that the use of bright colours in their projects had uplifting effects on their mood, especially in the winter. (Emily L. Burt) Making something pretty in beautiful fabrics and colours always helped me deal with extreme stress and winter blues as well.
Sewing is intellectually stimulating
Sewing belongs to that intellectually stimulating activity that provides constant learning opportunities. After you learn how to sew a straight skirt, you move on to another challenge to make a pleated skirt or a skirts with godets. And you can challenge yourself indefinitely. Just keep changing your projects to keep yourself mentally stimulated. Anyone who tried pattern drafting and alterations agree that they involve complex thinking and problem solving. These types of activities are the subject of an unfolding research on brain neuroplasticity (Ackerman). The idea is that our brain constantly relearns and adapts throughout our lives and it is possible to slow down the brain degenerative conditions by constantly challenging our brain to new tasks. The neuroscientists agree that constantly learning new things or starting a new hobby can prevent dementia and Alzheimer’s disease and that it is never too late to learn new things.
Sewing helps self-esteem
In addition to new learning of challenging skills which improves brain function, sewing leads to the great sense of accomplishment, improved self-esteem and satisfaction. Every time you complete a new project, you advance a step or two and celebrate the small victories. You feel even better when other people comment and complement you on your clothes. And when you daughter asks if she can borrow one of your pieces, well, that tops the cake.
Sewing helps form new friendships
I can tell you with confidence, that I formed the best friendships by connecting with the people in the sewing community. They are honestly the happiest people to be around. We share gladly and do not judge because we understand that sewing is a gradual skill- building process. You have to walk before you run and simple projects sometimes turn out to be the most difficult ones. In one of the studies of quilters, the participants reported that they formed strong friendships during their meetings and praise from others boosted self-esteem and increased motivation to complete the projects. (Emily L. Burt)
I had a similar experience when I attended the sewing courses at a local college. Our classes were so relaxed and positive. Not all sewing skills are enjoyable to everyone and there is no need pretending that sewing is all fun. I think I had to use my seam ripper a thousand times when I was in school. However, support and encouragement from like-minded people helped me get to the finish line and bring the final projects to the show and tell.
I hope that all these proven benefits will encourage you to start sewing. You don't need to get the most expensive sewing machine or fancy fabrics and gadgets.
Start small and build your skills gradually. Make sure you have good lighting setup and your work station is comfortable. Change your activities and project often to keep your interest going. Join the most fun and relaxing community of sewing enthusiasts!
Is this day your day-off and would you like to make something for a loved one, friend or family? We have an idea for you that you could basically make within a few hours. And of course the present will be what we stand for: chic, timeless and a bit of Chanel style!
Marfy Fashion Studio
We received an email from Marfy Fashion Studio because we are subscribed to the newsletter. This email came out well because a free sewing pattern from Marfy is always great. In this case it is about a sewing pattern for a stola. A stola which you can create very quickly and which is easy to make.
Marfy sewing patterns are usually not suitable for beginners. This is because there are no instructions included and the sewing patterns are always pre-cut. As a seamstress you need to have experience and sewing skills to understanding about the construction. The only clue you will get are numbers on the sewing pattern parts and the overall picture.
Read about this: the difference between sewing patterns from various brands. However, this sewing pattern is easy and suitable for beginners as well.
Sewing Pattern 6817
The Marfy download link:
Good luck !
And happy holidays!
Baudekin Studio: Did you want to learn how to make couture fabric covered buttons? I will share my method with you step by step, including the right tools, fabrics and detailed demonstration. Making couture fabric buttons without a kit is easy and very rewarding. Where to buy plastic rings: I got my on Amazon, but they are also available at fabric stores Pellon Easy Pattern is available on https://baudekinstudio.ca/
If you want to create a Chanel-style jacket and you are searching on the Internet (and on this website!), you will notice: the real vintage Chanel couture jackets often had buttons made out of fabrics. You will notice these buttons on modern Chanel jackets as well. You immediately want such beautiful and matching buttons too. And that's possible!
Fabric buttons are still 'Haute couture' beautiful!
Coco Chanel started making handmade buttons, mainly from Tweeds and Bouclé fabrics. She used fabrics because buttons were expensive. But also because the fabric buttons gave more 'couture' appearance to the clothing. The buttons and the jackets were perfectly matching and everyone knew about the making process: a time-consuming and dedicated job.
Coco Chanel started her career as a hat maker. Because of this, she knew many sewing techniques and she could handle different types of materials. She also had an eye for details, which gave the jackets something extra's, but they were never 'over the top'.
Her motto: "Simplicity is the key of elegance"
The authentic Chanel vintage fabric buttons are real treasure and not easy to buy. This is mainly because Tweeds and Bouclé are not durable fabrics and the buttons had to endure a lot.
If you are looking for fabric buttons in 'Chanel-style', Baudekin Studio is a great webshop.
Sometimes it is possible to find fabric buttons at a market, in a fabric store, or even in thrift stores. But you have to be very lucky that they will match with the fabric. Baudekin Studio has a few fabric buttons in its range. Affordable and above all: very beautiful.
The buttons are easy to match with many fabrics in terms of color and composition. Especially the black and white Bouclé buttons, can be used with almost any Bouclé fabric. But the colored fabric buttons also turned out to be a great option for a Chanel-Style jacket. This is mainly because Bouclé fabrics are often woven from multiple colored threads. Most of the times, there is always a color to match with the threads.
The example above: which color fits better with the dark green/black/blue/yellow Chanel-style jacket? The green or the yellow? Or both?
Chic couture clothing
Fabric buttons are also often the best choice for couture outfits. The example below shows it perfectly: a bridal cape or evening dress bolero with fabric buttons. The buttons make the cape extra beautiful and it is also much more convenient to match your jewelry. Are you going for gold or silver? If the buttons of evening wear are exactly the same as the fabric: go ahead and make your own choice.
All about creating your own Chanel-Style jacket, Chanel-lovers information, Historic Costumes, Couture & Sewing book reviews and tutorials.