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How to make a 'Chanel-Style' jacket


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New Look 6598 with the ideal collar!

3/12/2021

 
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Are you  struggling to make a nice collar for a blouse or shirt? It happens to almost every seamstress. It takes years of sewing experience to make a perfect beautiful collar. Keep practicing!  It will work out some day...

But you can also opt for a different type of collar or blouse. New Look 6598 is a nice blouse with a different collar, namely a 'wing collar'. Not only does this look neat and clean, but it's also an easy collar to make!

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New Look 6598
New Look 6598 is a sewing pattern for a blouse in five variations. The variations are mainly in the length of the sleeves and with or without a wing collar. You will make a wing collar in a completely different way than a standard blouse collar. It is in fact nothing more than an extension of the front piece and a larger front piece counter-lining. Sew these together and turn them over. And look, there you have the wing collar.

It sounds a little easier than it actually is, but if you follow the instructions carefully, you'll be fine. And it's easier to make than a standard collar with a stand anyway. Finish the inside of the counter lining neatly with a lock stitch or zigzag edge. This is important because the facing is quite large. Reinforce these well with interfacing because you will also need the extra strength for the buttons and button closure.

Recommended fabric:
New look indicates the following fabric types around the sewing pattern:
  • Chambray Cotton and Cotton mixes
  • Silk Mix silk
  • Jacquard
  • Linen and linen look.

We recommend using poplin cotton. You need a bit of sturdy fabric for this type of collar and silk may not fall as nicely. But it may be that this type of fabric, like the jacquard, is more intended for the models on the sewing pattern without a collar.
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Picture of Ministryofpatterns.com: read the nice  blog about all kinds of collars.
Summarized:
Sewing a blouse with a wing collar is quite easy. The collar has a completely different construction than a normal collar with stand. The collar is created by lengthening the front and a larger lining, which is turn to the outside (and good pressing!). It is important to neatly finish the inside of the lining with reinforcement with a lock stitch.

A blouse with a wing collar is a great alternative if you are still trying to hard  to get a normal collar to fit properly and it won't work. In addition, the collar is also very nice if you manage to make it from two parts of fabric and a contrasting color.

Want to master the art of collar making? Then this book is ideal:

The shirtmaking workbook

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  • Home
    • Beginners Gids
    • Disclaimer (EN)
    • Disclaimer (NL)
    • Contact
  • Blog (NL)
  • Blog (EN)
  • Sewing Patterns
    • Sewing Patterns by number
    • The Classics
    • Hats & accessories
    • Cosplay, LARP & Fantasy
    • Oktoberfest - Dirndl
  • Chanel-Style
    • Authentic versus Fake Chanel jackets
    • Chanel Cardigan or Jacket ?
    • Video's about Chanel
    • Video's Chanel catwalk collections
  • Book Reviews
    • Couture and Chanel books
    • (Couture) Sewing Books
    • Valuable sewing books
    • Sewing magazines Specials
  • Sewing Guide
    • Sewing a Chanel Style Jacket VIDEOS
    • Bags are beauties
    • DIY Outdoor Stuff!
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Fantastic Fabrics
    • Sustainable ideas
    • LARP & Cosplay