Are you in the mood for spring or summer 2021, or are you not thinking about that at all ...? We are living in strange times and because of the corona crisis most people do not even dare to think about 2021. And the spring and summer ... But let's enjoy Chanel's catwalk on Youtube.
Fashion houses & trend watchers But most fashion houses are used looking into the future. They determine what the street scene will look like in the future, or at least the next season ahead. Of course there are social developments that cannot be predicted and mistakes are common. For example, how about all the headcaps and tight hoodies that pop up on the catwalks but are suddenly clumsy? In connection with the mandatory mouth mask in many countries? You really need your ears to put the rubber bands on the mouth mask ... On the other hand, fashion houses and trend watchers also respond very quickly to social changes and developments. In'Living in a bubble' you can read how fashion adapts to people's daily lives. After all, we no longer have to leave the house - dressed in a suit - to run to a meeting. Many people are working at home. Looking neat but comfortable is a good goal. We live in a social bubble, we dress accordingly.
Chanel Spring-Summer 2021
What will bring Chanel's new spring and summer collection? In any case, a lot of distance and space between the models. Social distance in a chic concept. We see many fresh, light colors. Pink and light red in particular is strikingly present and we notice some bright prints. We are enjoying the classic Chanel jacket wearing in combination with short skirts and pants. Bouclé cotton all over the catwalk, beautiful black, anthracite and white colors processed in beautiful fabrics. Even dresses are made of Bouclé cotton, creating a strong but also a very elegant look. And as always, we see a lot of black, pearls, edges and fringes as the quintessential Chanel elements. We have the feeling that fashion house Chanel has stayed close to itself with this collection. Some outfits with big logo's, glitter sequins and ruffles are not our favorites. But everyone has his or her taste. Enjoy the video of the beautiful, modern catwalk and hopefully you get a lot of inspiration from it, just like us. And looking forward to spring 2021! 
In Dutch
How do you make your own Chanel-inspired jacket ? There is a simple answer to that question: read the books by Claire Shaeffer! This American lady has written many books about the history of Haute couture, how to make your own couture and in particular everything about Chanel couture. Her books are for all seamstress or hobby-sewers. But they are also interesting for people who are not interested in sewing. The history of Haute couture Claire Shaeffer is an expert in Haute couture. She has a wealth of knowledge and an own collection of vintage couture. She gained her knowledge by looking around in museums and studying couture in detail. Couture houses often do not reveal their secrets. However, Claire has unraveled many couture secrets by studying original vintage items. These literately inside studies enabled her to gather a lot of information that normally remains behind closed doors. Think of it as recipes from special menus from top restaurants. It is not only about the ingredients of a menu, but also about the specific cooking techniques that suddenly make eating a plate something very special. Apart from detailed sewing techniques, the books contain many beautiful photos of special vintage clothing. Classic and timeless chic! A beautiful Chanel jacket worn on trendy jeans. Who doesn't want this? Or a beige tweed coat for the winter? Just as timelessly beautiful as the perfectly fitting business blazer you would like to wear on occasions where you need to look beauty and brains. Everyone likes photography and information about the fashion of the past and the fashion of today. The only difference between a Vogue or Hapaar's Bazaar magazine and Claire Shaeffer's books is the idea to make these great pieces of clothing yourself. Perhaps you should first start with making potholders or pajama pants, but after a few years of practice it will probably work... Claire Shaeffer & Chanel Couture Anyone who says 'Chanel jackets' in the sewing-world, says Claire Shaeffer. Conversely too. Claire Shaeffer is a Chanel expert par excellence. Her books: The Couture Cardigan Jacket, The Couture Skirt and Designer trims deal specifically with the phenomenon: the Little French Jacket. The books are about how-to instructions and inspirations for color combinations, choices of fabrics and the very specific decorative trims and fringes of these jackets. A very nice ode to Coco Chanel. Some of her books were reissued in 2013, exactly one hundred years after Coco Chanel opened its first store in Deauville. A gift or a "silent" hint! If you have a girlfriend who likes to work with needle and thread: the books for this special lady are nice to give as a gift. Perhaps the silent hint is understood. You hope she will make a DIY Chanel jacket for you some day.... The word "day" is misplaced here. It is known that the "making time" of the Chanel jackets is on average 80 hours. And don't forget to add a lot of reading hours too, because you will soon loose the time if you step into the world of Haute couture through the eyes of Claire Shaeffer. 
This blog is not a review about a sewing pattern for a Chanel-Style jacket, but this review is about a pattern for a jumpsuit. A classic: the Vogue V9245! A pattern for a timeless fashion item, but unfortunately with some comments from us.
Vogue V9245 The Vogue pattern is a sewing pattern for a sleeveless jumpsuit and jumpsuit with sleeves. There are no further variations in sleeves, length or collars. The sewing pattern is suitable for the summer and therefore typical summer fabrics are recommended: jersey, challis and lightweight crepe fabric. We do not understand why jersey is recommended. Jersey clearly falls under the stretchable and elastic fabrics and this pattern is not suitable for elastic fabrics. Challis is a lightweight woven fabric, also called Rayon. This fabric might be transparent, so pay attention to that. Rayon is an ideal summer fabric because it is absorbent, feels nice and soft, but is also breathable. Also note: prewash is recommended to prevent shrinkage. Chanel-Style: If you want to add a 'Chanel-style touch': make the jumpsuit in the beloved Chanel colors: black, white, beige, gold or red. (see video below). A jumpsuit can be chic if you make it in subtle colors, add beautiful trims or lace and combine it with pearls or classy jewelry. 
Sewing level: very easy The sewing pattern is suitable for the novice seamstress. We agree with this, but it is certainly not 'very' easy. The sewingpattern is very long, there is a lot of fabric involved and you can easily make mistakes by losing the overview. Pros:
Cons:
Summarized:
Vogue V9245 is a fun sewing pattern for a timeless jumpsuit. The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. The jumpsuit is great for the summer. Nice and airy, easy to wear and if made of Rayon or travel fabrics: ideal to take with you on a trip. However, the sewing pattern is not entirely correct in terms of the base: the cross is not correct and is too far back. You need to fix it because without doing this, the crotch will not feel good and it will be a problem if you actually sit down.  First of all, we all need clothes, nobody is walking around naked in our society. And the range of enthusiasm about clothing goes from total disinterest to a very exaggerated mania. From fashion haters to fashion addicts. From unbelievably cheap clothing to over-the-top expensive Haute couture. There is a lot going on about clothes. But why should you create your own Chanel style jacket? Your own personal style Your wardrobe or style is saying more about you (on first sight) than your curriculum vitae. Stupid but true. It actually always have been. Every generation, every culture, every time has its own standards, values, (moral) codes and fashion build around clothes. And what about religious norms and values? Or status/profession related clothing rules? It has always been a big issue. From that perspective, talking about a beloved couture item is not such a big deal. But why do we love the French Chanel jacket so much? Why do we want to know about the construction, the sewing techniques, the history and above all: how are we able to manage to make one on our own? A lot of reasons, not just because…. Chanel style and Coco Chanel’s vision If we know why Coco Chanel invented the couture Chanel jacket, we would want to make it even more. Even though the Chanel jackets are shaped till perfection, in the early fifties, they were a totally new symbol of freedom after decades of tight corsets and an over-the-top hour-glass silhouette with almost unreachable waist size and pointy high breasts. The shape of the first Chanel jackets seemed almost boxy and masculine in that perspective. Chanel was indeed inspired by menswear but kept an eye on the total look of the suit or outfit which was very feminine and elegant. The jacket has its history and all women loved the new feeling of freedom while looking classy and sophisticated enough to be admired by everyone. The combination of easy-wearing and still looking awesome is something we always wanted. Let’s call it reason number one. Luxurious clothes are just awesome Number two is probably because we love the feeling of luxurious clothing. It is very easy to buy mass production these days and we all do it. Cheaper than cheap. Big deals. Bigger Shopping bags full of clothes or delivery within 24 hour.... Apart from cheap, fast and easy-going, we also love the idea of having something special, something unique and very personal. Creating a Chanel Inspired jacket is a very personal experience. Everything personal feels luxurious as it makes you feel unique and not just a face in the crowd. Therefore reason three goes hand in hand with reason two. Reason three is probably the idea of being unique and having your own style. Style is very important for people and specific women. We want to show our taste, our status, our profession or job and our self-esteem. A Chanel Inspired jacket is a status and a signature and it is very stylish. If you wear your Chanel jacket, everybody will be flabbergasted. It is like being at your very best.  We are the makers! Reason four. “Did you make it yourself?” Is actually not something a seamstress wants to hear. Why not? You should be so proud. It took “some” time and knowledge to make it yourself. You should be so proud! But yet we do not want to hear this question. We want to let people think you bought a real Chanel or you ordered some very luxurious piece of couture from a professional seamstress or atelier…. Whatever your feeling is, it does not matter. It is still a very big compliment because the jacket shows you have a lot of styles. Reason five. You always have been very creative. It shows. You are very handy with needle and thread and it is a piece of cake for you to make your own curtains, pillows, trousers, skirts or even coats. The Chanel Inspired jacket is next in line. It is a challenge as there has been no challenge before. Finishing the project and wearing the jacket one day, will be a big reward. And maybe you already planned the next jacket-project for yourself or somebody else. Talk about creativity. Reason six is almost the same. The Chanel Inspired jacket might be a tightly directed approach, but it provides a lot of freedom as well in being creative about the fringes, the buttons, the binding, the colour-combinations and even the length. You can spend more creativity in this jacket than in any outfit you ever produced before. Personal fitting should be one of the first reasons. The reasons are not in a logical list here. Seven. The jacket will suit you as a comfy sweater lounge outfit. If you took the time to fit and shape it on your body, it will be very perfect. Sustainability To make this socially acceptable and a little less selfish, we can also report that it is all very sustainable. A big reason eight, although it could be reason one for sure.... The materials are often of the best quality and last a lot longer than the cheaper ones. The construction of the jacket also provides the opportunity that it can be repaired or changed if needed. Sure it will be a hell of a job, but it is possible and it is an option if you’ve lost or gained weight or if it is accidentally damaged. (reason 9?)  The most beautiful gift!
And now the most generous reason. We are assuming that the seamstresses are making the DIY Chanel jackets for themselves. But it is also likely that you are going to make the jacket for someone else. A very nice niece is begging you for years now, a good friend knows your sewing skills and gives hints on a regular basis or some other beloved girlfriend wants to pay you more than you ever had earned before. Whatever the reason might be, it is very rewarding to sew clothes for somebody else. It’s a pity it can not be a total surprise ( because the fitting-steps really can not be skipped), but the gift will be a big thing anyway. It will be very satisfying spiritually to do this for another. Enjoy the process and especially enjoy the moment when the receiver unpacks the package, try it on and she will be happier than you could imagine. (And pictures will flow around the internet soon...) The receiver will be in your debt for a long time, and you will be the absolute hero for years. Last but not least... (Are we still counting?) Sewing is a hobby or a profession which is very peaceful. Women have been busy with needle and thread since the beginning of times. Mostly out of necessity, but also often as a relaxation in the form of a moment of rest. Crocheting, knitting, sewing, embroidery, they are activities that people like to do. Mindful meditation is a great way to reduce stress and relax. The results are mentally satisfying and very rewarding. Last but not least (really….) Talking about mindful sewing; producing this jacket is certainly not a hasty job. It will take hours, days, weeks, maybe even months before it will be done. Do not make a deadline. Just enjoy the process and realize it will be a slow-sewing project. Especially with all the hand-sewing which requires a bit of experience and skills. It might be even a good option to deliberately delay it yourself sometimes. Step away from it and start something easy. Come back to it when you really have the spirit. However you work, it should be fun. Good luck! 
For years, I have been following the Chanel fashionhouse. I read every book about Chanel or Chanel couture and I even create the famous Chanel jackets myself, according to the strict rules of Haute couture (and my beloved Claire Schaeffer). My quilty pleasure ... in capitals!
But now, a new book. A real treasure! You can hardly give a bigger gift to a Chanel-fan like me. Figuratively but also literally. Because it is a big book. A beautiful coffee table book with a striking light blue front and a very appealing content. But different than the others, because it stands out among all the glossy Chanel books, which have been on the coffee table for some time. The making of a Collection The book is richly illustrated by Jean-Philipe Delhomee. No illustrations as a side issue, but drawings that are at least 3 to 1 in relation to the text. No photo in this book, not even on the inside flaps of the cover and back page. The illustrations are beautiful, cheerful and very modern. The text of Laetitia Cénac is easy to follow in English for people our Dutch readers. Pleasant letter font, written well and clearly arranged. Who are the makers of a couture collection? Apart from all information about the Fashion House Chanel, about Gabrielle Chanel, history and even a list of important dates (pages 234-238), the book is mainly about WHO makes Haute-couture. Every step, from the process of idea (even an interview with Karl Lagerfeld) till the catwalk. The book is mainly about people who all do their work, which contributes to the beautiful couture collections of Chanel. The first pages are devoted to a fashion show. Before the first model with a beautiful Chanel jacket arrives on the catwalk, a lot has happened. Many people are already involved, who are an important part, but you have never thought about it for a second. Illustrations of the sound designer, the make-up artists, the fitting and dressing team, the stage manager etc. Presenting a collection is not a one-man show of a designer, but a well-oiled machine in which many people play a (big)role. The book elaborates on this. Back to the very beginning; from fabric to Haute couture. Every part of the collection and the entire making process is discussed, from bags, shoes, gloves, hats, jewelry to fabrics, yarn and threads. There are many pages dedicated to how the materials are made, how choices are made and where and who supplies this material. An ode to many people, to them all. To all people behind the products, to all people who cooperate or who are important suppliers of the basis for the Chanel collection. From now on I look at the Chanel collections with even more interest. A superficial world? Opinions are divided on this. The fact is that it is a whole industry and that more people are involved than you might think. A lot of glitter and glamor in this book, but strikingly enough, the emphasis is more on the entire creative process than on all the lavish luxury, the big money and the inaccessibility of Haute couture for ordinary people. This is mainly due to the modern, joy full drawings and the design of the book. Very well done, because in these times the environmental, climate and economic problems are too big to admit the money smelter of the upper class. 
This book is an eye-opener that very cleverly emphasizes the old crafts, manual labor and all the people behind the scenes who do the work.
(Let's just hope that all these production processes will also be carried out in an environmentally friendly way and that they will be able to maintain themselves in the coming years. So that we can continue to enjoy the Chanel Haute couture) At least I have enough inspiration to climb behind the sewing machine ... if I manage to put this book aside for a while.  One of the most read blogs on this website is the article on how to recognize a real vintage Chanel jacket. Imagine; suddenly you spot a jacket between all second-hand clothing that looks like a Chanel jacket. Is it really possible? But the labels are cut out, and there are no Chanel buttons on them, but it can be a really authentic Chanel jacket ... Tricky to find out, especially since the labels and buttons can confirm the authenticity of a Chanel jacket. But there are other things you can tell from it. Read our article and who knows, maybe that jacket in the mother's closet is a real Chanel jacket or you accidentally bought a real one via Marktplaats, ebay or another second-hand clothing online store. Let us know, we would like to sympathize!  How to recognize Vintage Chanel couture?
How do you know you have find a real Vintage couture piece of art or just a fake copy? On first sight they look exactly the same, they feels the same and it seems too good to be true. It is quite difficult. These days fakes are on first sight as good as the real onces. There is a whole (black) market on luxury brands on couture, jewelry, toys, games and even make-up. Even Vintage and authentic goods are made with such an knowledge and technical materials; it seems almost impossible to recognize real Vintage these days. We talk about couture on this website/blog and specific the French Chanel Couture. More specific the famous jacket and skirt. READ MORE: Chanel-Style, Pink and the snow.... But to be honest, we have not had any winter in the Netherlands in recent months. No snow, just rain, lots of rain and too hot temperatures. Not good.... , but we won't talk about that on this website. Let's focus on the jacket: The pink Chanel-style jacket is made of lovely woolly Bouclé fabric with a silk lining. If you make a Chanel jacket a bit more spacious, it is also often very suitable to wear outside. Even in the snow;>)
 Simplicity 4954, Lined Jacket with front and trim variations Sewing level: ? Fabrics: Demin, Corduroy, Damask, Twill, Wool and wool blends, Tweeds, Brocade, Satin, Shantung, Velvet, Linen and Linen blends. Notions: Shoudler pads, Ribbon, Buttons, flower, trims, interfacing and lining fabrics. Good points:
A bit less good points:
All about the color GREEN in Chanel couture
 Haute couture means "high sewing" or "high dressmaking" or "high fashion". It is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Also mentioned: high-end-fashion. In either terms, most important is the fact the clothes are constructed by hand from start to finish.
Expensive materials Haute couture is made from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabrics. The outerfabric but also the linings, interfacing and all the notions as. well. We are talking about real Silk, real metal, wooden or pearl buttons and the best of the best notions: zippers, hocks, the label-material etc. It is in the detail, so even the price-labels, size-labels etc. are full of details, copyright protected names etc. Work, and work.... Haute couture is sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers. They are often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. The difference between basic sewing and couture sewing is a big difference. Mainly the time invested, the location of the ateliers (or factories) and mostly the seamstress. The couture houses are working with very skilled seamstress. Before somebody is allowed to cut the expensive fabrics or to sew an ordered piece of couture by a very wealthy client: they have to be big professionals. Haute OR couture? Haute is the name. Haute refers to 'high 'the best' , 'the most professional' etc. Haute couture means the best of the best. Haute translates literally to "high". A haute couture garment is:
But what about Prêt-à-Porter ? The real difference between Prêt-à-Porter and Haute couture: Prêt-à-Porter = ready-to-wear. The same beautiful couture garment is not created for an exclusive client but in standard-sizes. The clothes are for sale for those who can afford them. Well, it still means the cloths are extremely expensive, but they are for sale.... Chanel couture, if you win the lottery? Yes, it is expensive with capitals. We all know a lipstick costs already 30.00 euro even though you can buy a perfect lipstick for 10.00 euro of the other brands. Mainly you pay for the label-name, the package, the smell, the luxury image and above all: a special feeling to have a CHANEL-lipstick! We all know about the handbags. If you own a real 2.55 Chanel handbag, you are walking around with a real investment. Most handbags starts around 5.000 euro and for some (new) models you have to get on a list, wait for months, maybe even years. And now: imagine the couture: Day wear usually starts at around euro 10.000, though it does depend on the brand Chanel Haute Couture usually cost between euro 50.000-100.000, while bridal can easily cost euro 100.000-150.000. So start saving money, or better: start to learn how to create couture yourself. HAUTE COUTURE YOURSELF! Couture houses or labels don't mass-produce. They'll make 100 garments a year instead of 1.000, or even instead of mass production to sell the clothes allover the world.... So now you understand WHY the real Haute couture is so extremely expensive. The choice between real couture and mass-production cheap clothes is easy. you have to get dressed, so you have to buy what's available down the streets or on the internet. BUTTTT...... start sewing yourself and you are able to create your own Haute couture.
MORE INFO 13 reasons why you should make your own Chanel-style jacket How to know if you have a real Vintage-Chanel jacket or a fake one?  October was the breast cancer awareness month. SewingChanelStyle supports the Pink Ribbon month by giving it some extra attention and promote the Pink Ribbon Foundation on Social Media. Read all about the color Pink on our special page about Pink Chanel couture jackets: The Pink Jacket & The Pink Pied de Poule Jacket   Haute couture means "high sewing" or "high dressmaking" or "high fashion". It is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Also mentioned: high-end-fashion. In either terms, most important is the fact the clothes are constructed by hand from start to finish.
Expensive materials Haute couture is made from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabrics. The outerfabric but also the linings, interfacing and all the notions as. well. We are talking about real Silk, real metal, wooden or pearl buttons and the best of the best notions: zippers, hocks, the label-material etc. It is in the detail, so even the price-labels, size-labels etc. are full of details, copyright protected names etc. Work, and work.... Haute couture is sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers. They are often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. The difference between basic sewing and couture sewing is a big difference. Mainly the time invested, the location of the ateliers (or factories) and mostly the seamstress. The couture houses are working with very skilled seamstress. Before somebody is allowed to cut the expensive fabrics or to sew an ordered piece of couture by a very wealthy client: they have to be big professionals. Haute OR couture? Haute is the name. Haute refers to 'high 'the best' , 'the most professional' etc. Haute couture means the best of the best. Haute translates literally to "high". A haute couture garment is:
But what about Prêt-à-Porter ? The real difference between Prêt-à-Porter and Haute couture: Prêt-à-Porter = ready-to-wear. The same beautiful couture garment is not created for an exclusive client but in standard-sizes. The clothes are for sale for those who can afford them. Well, it still means the cloths are extremely expensive, but they are for sale.... Chanel couture, if you win the lottery? Yes, it is expensive with capitals. We all know a lipstick costs already 30.00 euro even though you can buy a perfect lipstick for 10.00 euro of the other brands. Mainly you pay for the label-name, the package, the smell, the luxury image and above all: a special feeling to have a CHANEL-lipstick! We all know about the handbags. If you own a real 2.55 Chanel handbag, you are walking around with a real investment. Most handbags starts around 5.000 euro and for some (new) models you have to get on a list, wait for months, maybe even years. And now: imagine the couture: Day wear usually starts at around euro 10.000, though it does depend on the brand Chanel Haute Couture usually cost between euro 50.000-100.000, while bridal can easily cost euro 100.000-150.000. So start saving money, or better: start to learn how to create couture yourself. HAUTE COUTURE YOURSELF! Couture houses or labels don't mass-produce. They'll make 100 garments a year instead of 1.000, or even instead of mass production to sell the clothes allover the world.... So now you understand WHY the real Haute couture is so extremely expensive. The choice between real couture and mass-production cheap clothes is easy. you have to get dressed, so you have to buy what's available down the streets or on the internet. BUTTTT...... start sewing yourself and you are able to create your own Haute couture.
MORE INFO 13 reasons why you should make your own Chanel-style jacket How to know if you have a real Vintage-Chanel jacket or a fake one? --------------------------- Chanel: The Making of a Collection |
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