Vogue V9250: a real challenge!

In Dutch

Vogue V9250 is a Claire Shaeffer designed pattern, published by Vogue. We know Claire Shaeffer from the books: The Couture Cardigan Jacket, Making Designers Trims and The Couture Skirt. In her books she describes how Coco Chanel designed her famous Chanel jacket, the faux-wrap skirt and other classics. The sewing pattern V9250 is an example of a classic Chanel jacket and completely focused on the couture sewing techniques.

Vogue V9250
The vogue pattern is a pattern for a loose-fitting, lined jacket with princess lines, two-piece sleeves and many fringes. The fabrics for this jacket: Tweeds, Linen, Wool and crepe. It is advisable to stick to the fabric recommendation, although we have opted for a green summer bouclé. You will need buttons, shoulder pads and lots of extra fabric to make fringes.

Sewing level: advanced
The pattern has been titled "Vogue ADVANCED". We agree with this. Claire Shaeffer provides great detailed instructions, but you must have sewing experience to understand them. Also 'bouned buttonholes' are really only possible to make if you have a lot of experience. As a seamstress with a fair amount of sewing experience you can figure it out on your own, but make sure you can ask for help if you get stuck in the project or do not fully understand the instructions.

Sewing-by-hand or 'Hand-sewing'
As mentioned, a lot is work for this project is sewing by hand. You gotta love this. You can find the stitches you need in most books and on the Internet. Claire Shaeffer also explains it nicely, but first learn more about it. Sewing by hand is more than just basting, the stitches have to be really strong and above all demonstrable.

The sleeves consist of two parts and we think the sleeves are quite narrow at the top. Make the pattern out of muslin first, to make sure it fits properly. Sleeves that are too narrow is really a pity. As a result, you cannot move comfortable in the jacket and there is even a chance that you will tear out, especially if you use delicate fabrics such as tweed and Bouclé.

Claire Shaeffer's extra 'couture instructions' are very nice. This allows you to really learn to sew with couture techniques that you will enjoy later on. The instructions are "the secrets of the master". This way you can make a real couture jacket from an affordable pattern and fabric of your choice.

We made the jacket from light green summer bouclé. The Bouclé fabric was light and not too loose. This Bouclé offers the possibility to easily make the fringes.

Note: make the fringes from a double row of fabric. This gives a nicer effect and thus the fringes are easier to see. Use an overlocker to make a nice flat edge that you can easily sew onto the jacket. Or rather: between the different pattern pieces.

The Chanel-style jacket has a classic look and is easy to combine with any kind of outfit. Green is not really a popular color, but it is certainly special, especially if you are looking for Bouclé fabrics in green tones. Everything about the color green & Chanel! Moreover, green is very easy to combine with jeans for a casual look, but also with black and white for a chic or business outfit.

Pros:

• The sewing pattern is timeless and completely in the spirit of Coco Chanel by Claire Schaeffer
• The jacket is comfortable but also chic
• Lots of Chanel details!
• Especially the fringes!

Cons:

• The jacket is not fitted but loose-fitting. Make sure you take the right size, otherwise the jacket will soon be a bit too 'square'. Or make a sample of mouselline first anyway; then you can better assess the shape and adjust it if necessary.
  
• The top sleeves are very narrow. Take this into account or adjust it.
  
• There is a lot of hand sewing involved and the whole sewing project is really a project that will take you a long time.
  
• Do you have a deadline? Start well in advance or choose a different sewing pattern first.
  

Summarized:
Vogue V9250 is a special sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket according to the vision of Coco Chanel and explained by Claire Shaeffer. (in the instructions for this pattern and in all of her books). The instructions are very comprehensive and clear. Yet this jacket remains a challenge for every seamstress.

Keep this in mind if you don't have much experience with 'couture sewing techniques' yet. The sewing pattern is a Chanel-style jacket par excellence. Good luck !