Vogue V8804 is a Claire Schaeffer pattern published by Vogue. We know Claire Schaeffer from the books: The Couture Cardigan Jacket, Making Designers Trims and The Couture Skirt. In her books she describes how Coco Chanel designed her famous Chanel jacket, the faux wrap skirt and other classics. The V8804 sewing pattern is an example of a classic Chanel jacket and focuses entirely on the couture sewing techniques that make the jacket something very special.
The vogue pattern is a pattern for a lined, quilted jacket. This means that the lining is attached to the outer fabric and is therefore not only Haute Couture, but also very pleasant to wear.
The jacket is intended for the fabrics: Tweeds, Bouclé and Mohair, it is important to stick to these fabrics to create a real "Chanel Style" jacket.
You also need an iron chain, buttons, trims or fringes and a beautiful silk lining. We recommend real silk, this makes sewing easier and is worth the investment.
Average sewing level?
The pattern is labeled "Vogue AVERAGE". However, we believe that it does require experience to create this jacket. You first need to prepare the pattern pieces separately (quilting the lining at the outer fabric) then you need to construct the jacket together. This also requires the necessary hand sewing experience. The instructions are comprehensive and clear, but it remains a complicated sewing project.
As mentioned, there is a lot of handsewing involved to creat this jaacket. You need to like this kind of sewing. Most books and the Internet have guides to 'do' the stitches you need. Claire Schaeffer also explains it nicely, but first try it yourself on small pieces of fabrics (leftovers). Sewing by hand is more than just basting, the stitches must be really sturdy and above all demonstrable.
The sleeves consist of three parts and end in sleeve openings. Make sure you put the sleeves together well and keep in mind that they are very short. So adjust this in time if you want them longer.
The inside of this jacket will eventually be just as beautiful as the outside. But take your time and practice on a sample first. It is also advisable to buy really nice matching yarn that is the same color as the lining. This sounds logical, but you often see that in clothing yarn is used that differs in color. This makes the garment suddenly a lot 'cheaper' in terms of appearance. Rather search a little longer for the right color than choose a color that you happen to already have at home.
We made the jacket in black Bouclé fabric with a colorful lining (unfortunately you do not see this in the photos.) The Bouclé fabric was slightly heavier and firmer. The Chanel-style jacket has a classic look and is easy to combine with any kind of outfit.
We also made the sleeves a lot longer. We also made the jacket in beige Bouclé. We have extended this jacket with additional edges around it in contrasting colors, just like the buttons.
Read more about the beige color in Chanel's vision and the making of this jacket: Beige Bouclé Chanel-Style jacket.
Not so good:
Vogue V8804 is the ideal sewing pattern to make the Chanel-Style jacket according to the vision of Coco Chanel and explained by Calire Schaeffer. (in the instructions for this pattern and in all her books). The lining is sewn to the outer fabric (quilted) and has the appearance of Haute Couture in all respects.
Take plenty of time to make this jacket. It will take longer than you think. But the result will undoubtedly be very beautiful and unique!