Simplicity 8604 is a modern jacket in Chanel style. We have made model C and are enthusiastically divided. The sewingpattern needs adjustments, especially on the sleeves and front closure. We only recommend this pattern if you have extensive experience in adjusting patterns.
Modern and young
The jacket on the front page looks young, fresh and very modern. The peplums make the jacket nice in shape, the emphasis is on the waist of the wearer and this is very beautiful. The sleeves are also flared. This makes the jacket slightly different than usual. We preferred model c, but model D is also very nice in 'Chanel style' and models A. and B. are casual and handy.
Simplicity 8604 is published by Threads and is linked to an article in Threads with detailed instructions. But also without these instructions; no panike. The sewingpattern contains an instruction description as usual. The instructions are short, visually clear but a beginner is unlikely to get out. We recommend asking for help if you are a beginner or only starting this pattern if you have extensive sewing experience.
Sizing and cutting
The pattern comes in many variations in size and cups. This makes cutting the pattern a lot of work very. Make sure you cut out the right sizes. A tip: first indicate on the pattern sheets with a highlight pen what part you need. Then cut everything out and cross off the list on the first instruction sheet. Or cut everything out and make stacks in size / cups.
The fabrics that are recommended are: Bouclé, Brocade, Corduroy, Damask, Demin, Linen, Ponte, seersucker and Tweeds. We recommend indeed only taking these fabrics, although we doubt linen and seersucker. The fabrics need a bit of firmness and should not fall smoothly. This mainly because otherwise the peplumns would not be flattering. A firm fabric is also a must for the other models.
Adjusting the sewingpattern
The pattern was very disappointing in terms of comfort and portability and is also noticed in the images of the sewingpattern. The sleeves are too narrow from above for normal arms and the cups are too small in size to make the front pleasantly portable. There is not much movement-comfort if you are wearing this jacket. In models C and D the front pieces should be closed over each other, unfortunately this does not work. Make sure that you make the fronts more spacious and the sleeves much more spacious. This does require experience in adjusting patterns.
The sewingpattern is a nice model if you want to make a Chanel-Style jacket. Model D in particular is the most likely in that direction. Model C has playful peplums and is a good choice for young people or someone who wants a jacket with a young, playful look. However, the pattern needs adjustments: for models C and D, the front pieces do not fit and over properly. The sleeves are too narrow from above and very wide.
We wish you the best of luck with this sewing pattern.