Couture Sewing Techniques

Couture Sewing techniques.  A lot have been explained in all the beautiful books about this subject.  Some books are beautiful illustrated with step-by-step guides, other are more focused on texts or photographs.

Couture sewing techniques are great to learn and to use for creating our Chanel Inspired jacket.
Therefore on this websites; some techniques explained by photographs and some texts.

Bust Darts
Bust darts replaced by easing technique. Explained on instructions-manual 28-30. I recommend to use 100% cotton as interfacing for trouble-less easing and hand-stitching.
I also recommend t use this technique only on tweeds and bouclé.  It might work on heavy wool, loden and linen, but the result will not be impeccable.

It is actually not that difficult:

Start with ease basting two rows on the seam-line of the fabric. Baste and stitch the dart on "stay" (no. 5 of the pattern). Press it in shape. Hand-stitch the "stay " on the inside of the fabric.  Be careful the stitching doesn't show on the good side of the fabric.  Ease the basting of the side front till it shapes perfectly. Carefully press the bubble away.  Use a tailor-ham to round and shape it. 

Try this couture technique a few times on a piece of fabric before using it on the real side front of the jacket. Once you get it done, you will use this technique over and over to create the perfect couture look.

Lining and Shaping
It has been said over and over: Lining is important, do not go for a bargain.
It is true.....  The little French Chanel jacket looks as good from the inside as it does from the out-side. Quilted or not quilted; choose for a (light-weight) Silk or China Silk. First of all; it really makes hand-sewing a lot easier. Second; it wears and looks like Haute Couture.  Warm in the winter; cooler in the summer; it never makes you feel sweaty or shivering.
Why does it sew easier?  It simply does.  The material feels better,  it folds better and it does not live its own life like cheap charmeuse intends to do or a polyester lining.
Look for Silks in shops, on the market, on the internet. Skip the lining or "futter" categories. Mostly the silks are a category on its own.

Couture tip: As shown on picture: First do the quilting,  than the construction of the jacket.  Turn the jacket inside out and fit it on your own personal professional sewing mannequin.  Shape it and fold out very tiny darts in between the lining of the quilted rows or if not quilted: in between the seams of the panels. Do not stick to the usual four darts but fold a few of them next to each other.  A lot of work. Result: A perfect couture personal-fitted- tailor-made jacket.

Couture tip: Threads: Find the right color to suit the silk. Use a different color to match the tweed.  You might need to switch the colors on the sewing machine over and over. But it is worth all the effort.

Quilting the lining
The Chanel Jacket is known for its heavenly wearing comfort. Why?  Mostly because of the fabrics, tweed or bouclé is quilted to the lining sections. The patterns, as V8804 Vogue, by Claire Schaeffer, have specific instructions how and where to the quilting lines should be placed in order to sew the fabric on the lining.
Fabrics  bouclé and tweed do have lines on its own. Stitching  by placing the tweed or bouclé as top-layer, can be tricky as the fabric does stretch a bit and bubbling may start to shown.......

Couture tip: Fist of all, start stitching by hand (slip-stitch) the lining, tweed or bouclé as toplayer and the lining as underlay. Shown on picture 1.
Second; now you can turn the fabric and machine-stitch the lining on the tweed or bouclé. Use the perfect colors on the lining and fabric, so the stitching does not show. A bit more work.
Picture 2: The quilting lines are perfectly laying flat on the tweed. The tweed does not bubble at all. The lining does not bubble and stays flat and even.

Instructions on Chanel-jacket patterns are mostly advising to work on the right side of the fabrics. Maybe easier and less time-consuming.  But this technique shown better results.  Sewing with the lining as top-layer prevents the fabrics to get bulky and bubbling....

Patch Pocktes
The beauty about patch pockets in Couture is the idea of pockets that are applied ON the jacket.  Best thing to great this visible attractive idea to hand sew the pockets always on the jacket. No threads shown from stitching or top-stitching.

Top of couture: it is extra nice if there is a curve and bulging in the pockets on the jacket. The pockets are now looking like they stand away from the body....