A long Chanel-style jacket or a coat?

A short jacket, a half-long jacket or a really very long jacket. You might think turning a short jacket into a long jacket is not thát difficult. Extend the fabric and you have the same jacket but then longer. But it is a bigger deal...

Long coat = other function
A long jacket has a completely different function. Long coats are usually meant to be worn over clothing to go outside. Hey, hey, doesn't everyone know that? That's right, but sometimes ugly mistakes are made in the sewing world. More spacious and wider Jackets are often underestimated in terms of sewing techniques. Sewing patterns are taken a little less seriously when it comes to long coats. Many seamstresses who have often made a long jacket, know that sewing a long jacket is just as meticulous work as making a short jacket. And that making a long jacket is not that simple at all. How often did we experience a long jacket is 'just not right'? Sadly, too many times.

A coat or a long jacket?
A coat always refers to an outer jacket. Usually it is a long classic model made of wool, loden or tweed. An outdoor jacket is more like a sporty (long) jacket made of waterproof fabrics, or a quilted jacket with a hood. In the sewing world, people talk about coats or simply: jackets. The shorter (Chanel style) jackets are often categorized with blazers or 'jackets'. Often it is confusing but follow the golden rule that coats are the outer coats and 'jackets' often the inner jackets.

How to sew longer coats or jackets?
Sometimes we notice that our project turned out to be a failure: the lining is incorrect, the shoulders are too wide and the jacket only fits well with a very thin t-shirt underneath. But unfortunately that was not the intention. Did we forgot about the instructions on the sewing pattern? Or are the fabrics just not suitable? We would like to point out that making a long jacket requires just as much love, knowledge and experience as making a short jacket. Maybe even more, because after all, you work with a lot of fabrics and materials.

A longer jacket in Chanel style? Is that possible? Yes indeed. A long bouclé or tweed jacket with a quilted lining is heavenly and you really want to wear it all year round. So nice and warm, so comfortable! It is quite a job but the reuslt will be: a piece of pure Haute couture.

Sewing patterns
If you want to make a longer Chanel-Style jacket, make sure you search for 'jackets'. Not on 'coats' or 'outdoor jackets'. If you really want to make a coat out of Tweed fabric or Bouclé to wear outside and over your clothes, look for 'cloaks' or 'coats'.

Please note: a nice long coat made of those fabrics is quite fragile and not durable. If you get caught on a splinter, a door handle or something else, the threads will easily tear out. A wolen coat is just as chic, slightly less 'Chanel-style' but stronger. Although this fabric is certainly not durable. And for all chic coatsmake sure to have an umbrella because the fabrics do not like rain and wind.

Suitable patterns for longer Chanel-style jackets:

• Vogue V7860
• Burda 6248
• Vogue V9247
  
• Vogue 1717 (review to follow in Dec 2020)
• Knipmode 1120-10 (review will follow in Dec 2020)

Beautiful long classic coats that are suitable for Tweeds, Bouclé or Loden:

• Burda 6462 and 6385
  
• Butterick 6720 and 6385
  
• Vogue V 1562
• Simplicity 9187
  
• NewLook 6585
  
• McCalls 8013
  

Tips & Tricks:

• Follow the sewing pattern just as closely as with a shorter jacket.
  
• Determine in advance which length suits you best: just over your knees, calf length or a really long coat.
  
• Also set the goal: a longer jacket is not useful if you have to drive or travel. A three-quarter jacket often offers more freedom of movement and convenience.
  
• Hemming: this is an accurate work. The liner should not pull or hang out from under it. If necessary, watch videos on Youtube to learn it extra well.
  
• Buy extra fabric: this is useful in case you decide to have large pockets on the jacket or an extra belt.
  
• Choose a lining with a print or a contrasting color. This often gives a couture look.
  
• The lining often determines whether a jacket is comfortable to wear or not: do not see the release of lining fabric as a final item, but as just as important as the outer fabric
  
• Always hang a jacket on a clothes hanger and not on the loop. This keeps the jacket in better shape. How do you teach yourself this discipline? Simply by not sewing a loop in it: P
  

Additional options for advanced seamstresses:
If you want to make a longer jacket in 'Chanel-Style', consider quilting the lining on the outer fabric. Follow Claure Shaeffer's instructions from her book: 'The couture cardigan jacket' and you have a beautiful long Chanel jacket that wears and looks heavenly. It may be a lot of work but well worth it. Especially if you choose a Bouclé fabric that is very light or loose-fitting, sewing the lining to it is a good idea. It gives the jacket more strength and shape.

In summary:
A longer Chanel-style jacket is completely different from a jacket in Bouclé or tweeds, see photo above. Both are chic, beautiful, timeless but take a little more time to make.

Read carefully which recommended fabrics are on the sewing patterns. Choose the fabric ánd lining carefully, it will be the difference between a great result or a failed project.