Sewing a Chanel Inspired Jacket;
How to choose the right lining ?
How to choose the right lining ?
All about lining fabrics.
In sewing and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of fabric. We need the inner lining because it provides a neat inside finish and conceal interfacing, padding, the raw edges of seams, and other construction details.
In sewing and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of fabric. We need the inner lining because it provides a neat inside finish and conceal interfacing, padding, the raw edges of seams, and other construction details.
In our beloved Chanel jacket the lining has even a bigger role; The lining will be quilted on the loose bouclé or tweed fabric, in order to make the tweed a piece of couture and comfortable to wear as a sweater. All about this: read here.
So, the lining is one of the main characteristics of the Chanel couture jacket and its signature style.
In the Chanel Vintage Couture-story we also read about the lining which was used to make perfect blouses as well. A pure silk blouse underneath the matching jacket and the matching skirt, which was lined with the same silk; the Chanel Couture Style was created and was a real couture ensemble and part of the total look. Elegant, timeless and sophisticated.
Many different types of silk fabric make fantastic choices for lining. The choice between colours is endless and the feel is always luxurious. Silk charmeuse is a particularly lovely indulgence and gives your garment a designer touch. China silk is a lightweight plain weave that is perfect for lightweight garments. Silk, pure silk, raw silk, rayon Silk, China Silk, charmeuse and a lot of polyester fabrics are all different types of linings. The names flow over the internet and are used and mis-used more often.
So, let's take a closer look and try to explain the difference between all those lovely fabrics. The differences but also the similarities and best or less best ( “worst” would be an exaggeration) characteristics and features of the fabrics.
If you buy a lining fabric it is easy to look at the prices and choose the cheapest available. But it would be a pity as well if all your work will not be as planned because of a terrible fabric which is not comfortable to wear or a bloody hell for sewing.
All couture books and all bloggers are always advising to buy an expensive silk because it shows when the project is finished and wearing the jacket or skirt is very nice. But a little less expensive fabric can do the job as well.
If you know the advances and dis-advances of the fabric, it should not be too hard to choose a matching fabric.
We will talk about colours or designs later; first let's take a look at the fabrics.
So, the lining is one of the main characteristics of the Chanel couture jacket and its signature style.
In the Chanel Vintage Couture-story we also read about the lining which was used to make perfect blouses as well. A pure silk blouse underneath the matching jacket and the matching skirt, which was lined with the same silk; the Chanel Couture Style was created and was a real couture ensemble and part of the total look. Elegant, timeless and sophisticated.
Many different types of silk fabric make fantastic choices for lining. The choice between colours is endless and the feel is always luxurious. Silk charmeuse is a particularly lovely indulgence and gives your garment a designer touch. China silk is a lightweight plain weave that is perfect for lightweight garments. Silk, pure silk, raw silk, rayon Silk, China Silk, charmeuse and a lot of polyester fabrics are all different types of linings. The names flow over the internet and are used and mis-used more often.
So, let's take a closer look and try to explain the difference between all those lovely fabrics. The differences but also the similarities and best or less best ( “worst” would be an exaggeration) characteristics and features of the fabrics.
If you buy a lining fabric it is easy to look at the prices and choose the cheapest available. But it would be a pity as well if all your work will not be as planned because of a terrible fabric which is not comfortable to wear or a bloody hell for sewing.
All couture books and all bloggers are always advising to buy an expensive silk because it shows when the project is finished and wearing the jacket or skirt is very nice. But a little less expensive fabric can do the job as well.
If you know the advances and dis-advances of the fabric, it should not be too hard to choose a matching fabric.
We will talk about colours or designs later; first let's take a look at the fabrics.
Pure Silk, 100% Silk or just “Silk” is a natural protein fiber. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. 100% pure silk is made 100% from the floss spun by silkworms or similar insects. There is silk satin, silk dupion, silk chiffon, they are all woven (or knitted) 100% from the products of silk-spinning insects. Silk containing sericin is called raw silk. The gummy substance, affording protection during processing, is usually retained until the yarn or fabric stage and is removed by boiling the silk in soap and water, leaving it soft and lustrous, with weight reduced by as much as 30 percent.
Fabrics that are often made from silk are: charmeuse, habutai, chiffon, taffeta, crepe de chine, dupion, tussar, and shantung.
Silk or fabric made from silk, are perfect choices for lining. Many colours and the fabrics are always luxurious and pleasant. Silk charmeuse is the most softest and used for couture to provide clothing with an indulgence feeling.
Silk's absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and when you are active. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, ties, blouses, formal dresses, high fashion clothes, lining, lingerie, night wear, robes, dress suits, sun dresses and Eastern folk costumes. For practical use, silk is excellent as clothing that protects from many biting insects that would ordinarily pierce clothing, such as mosquitoes and horseflies.
Dupion is a plain weave crisp type of silk fabric, produced by using fine thread in the warp and uneven thread reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. This creates tightly-woven yardage with a highly-lustrous surface. It is easy to recognize and often a lot less expensive because of its structure. You either like it or you don't. But is a great choice to use for lining clothes and it works well for sewing and hand-sewing.
Tussar silk is produced from larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus Antheraea. Tussar silk is considered more textured than cultivated Bombyx or "mulberry" silk but it has shorter fibres, which makes it less durable. It has a dull gold sheen.
Crêpe is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp, crimped appearance. The term crepe typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning.
Crêpe de chine: A fine, lightweight silk, cotton, or worsted, with a plain weave and crêpe-twist filling. Crêpe de chine travers: A ribbed crêpe de chine with heavier filling yarns introduced to the weave at regular intervals. Crêpe de dante: Crêpe with silk and wool filling. Crepe de Chine is a good choice for lining jackets. It is luxurious and it often had luxurious patterns or designs.
Poly Crepe de Chine is a semi-sheer, lightweight 100% polyester crepe fabric ideal for projects that require a soft drape and delicate hand.
Fabrics that are often made from silk are: charmeuse, habutai, chiffon, taffeta, crepe de chine, dupion, tussar, and shantung.
Silk or fabric made from silk, are perfect choices for lining. Many colours and the fabrics are always luxurious and pleasant. Silk charmeuse is the most softest and used for couture to provide clothing with an indulgence feeling.
Silk's absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and when you are active. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, ties, blouses, formal dresses, high fashion clothes, lining, lingerie, night wear, robes, dress suits, sun dresses and Eastern folk costumes. For practical use, silk is excellent as clothing that protects from many biting insects that would ordinarily pierce clothing, such as mosquitoes and horseflies.
Dupion is a plain weave crisp type of silk fabric, produced by using fine thread in the warp and uneven thread reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. This creates tightly-woven yardage with a highly-lustrous surface. It is easy to recognize and often a lot less expensive because of its structure. You either like it or you don't. But is a great choice to use for lining clothes and it works well for sewing and hand-sewing.
Tussar silk is produced from larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus Antheraea. Tussar silk is considered more textured than cultivated Bombyx or "mulberry" silk but it has shorter fibres, which makes it less durable. It has a dull gold sheen.
Crêpe is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp, crimped appearance. The term crepe typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning.
Crêpe de chine: A fine, lightweight silk, cotton, or worsted, with a plain weave and crêpe-twist filling. Crêpe de chine travers: A ribbed crêpe de chine with heavier filling yarns introduced to the weave at regular intervals. Crêpe de dante: Crêpe with silk and wool filling. Crepe de Chine is a good choice for lining jackets. It is luxurious and it often had luxurious patterns or designs.
Poly Crepe de Chine is a semi-sheer, lightweight 100% polyester crepe fabric ideal for projects that require a soft drape and delicate hand.
Georgette is made with highly twisted yarns. Its characteristic crinkly surface is created by alternating S- and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft. Georgette is made in solid colours and prints and is used for blouses, dresses, evening gowns, saris, and trimmings. It it not such a good option for linings unless you are creating summer jackets or skirts and do not need the slippery surface for silks and other linings. Georgette and chiffon are possible linings only because of its breathable character.
Taffeta (Silk) is a crisp, smooth, plain woven fabric made from silk or cuprammonium rayons. The word is Persian in origin and means "twisted woven". ... Piece-dyed taffeta is often used in linings and is quite soft. Yarn-dyed taffeta is much stiffer and is often used in evening dresses.
Stretch taffeta fabric is available in rich and vibrant colors. This luxuriously crisp fabric is perfect for ballgowns, dresses, wedding gowns and other high end garments. Taffeta is in the same class and demand as satin made of silk. The cloth is made of a plain or tabby weave, and the textures vary considerably. The fabric is smooth, tightly woven with fine warp yarn and has a plain weave. Silk Taffeta has a crisp drape and comes in various weights.
Shantung is a type of silk fabric historically from the province of Shandong. It is similar to Dupioni, but is slightly thinner and less irregular. Shantung is often used for bridal gowns and a dress-fabric spun from tussore silk with random irregularities in the surface texture. The Polyester Shantung has the look of a woven silk, but has the easy polyester care. The texture is rough but not unpleasant to wear. It has a nice sheen, and a shine on the reverse, which can be a nice accent. The fabric has a very simple plain weave with a ribbed effect. Shantung sometimes has beautiful prints which are decorative and shiny.
Satin is a fabric made using a satin weave structure but made with spun yarns instead of filament. The sheen and softer feel of sateen is produced through the satin weave structure.
Satin has a very smooth, almost silky feel to it. The reason for the smooth feel of satin is because of the way it's woven. It is woven from the same fibers as taffeta, but it has more over threads than it does under threads. Satin is cheaper than silk fabrics. Stretch satin is often used as lining for party clothes. Satin is a great alternative for silk.
Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave, in which the warp threads cross over four or more of the backing (weft) threads. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth finish—lustrous and reflective—whereas the back has a dull finish.
The lightweight and silky soft charmeuse satin fabrics have a beautiful hand and drape. They have 10% stretch across the grain for added comfort and ease. These fabrics are perfect for special occasion apparel, blouses, lingerie, dresses and skirts - especially on the bias.
Dance-wear is often made of charmeuse.
Charmeuse is not very nice for sewing or handsewing. It takes a lot of patience to get it right and a lot of neat work.
Viscose lining fabrics are anti-static, smooth to the touch, soft, pliable and light enough in weight. Viscose is sometimes called Rayon. Viscose, man-made fiber created from cellulose chemically extracted from trees. It's a little weaker in strength than cotton, and thus is often used to make delicate, lighter clothing. Viscose is particularly used for summer dresses, blouses and linings. The fabric is sometimes very cheap and used for mass-production poor quality clothes. Viscose is a contradictory beast - as a manufactured regenerated cellulose fibre, it is neither truly natural (like cotton, wool or silk) nor truly synthetic (like nylon or polyester) - it falls somewhere in between.
Rayon is a man-made fabric blended from cotton, wood pulp, and other natural or synthetic fibers. It was invented as a cheaper alternative to silk Since it is so comfortable and cooling to wear, rayon is an especially good fabric for sportswear and summer dresses.
Rayon or artificial silk is a manufactured regenerated cellulose fiber. It is made from purified cellulose, primarily from wood pulp, which is chemically converted into a soluble compound. It is then dissolved and forced through a spinneret to produce filaments which are chemically solidified, resulting in synthetic fibers of nearly pure cellulose. ... Because rayon is manufactured from naturally occurring polymers, it is considered a semi-synthetic fiber. Rayon is not the best option for lining.
Acetate fabrics are made from man-made fibers and are meant to look like silk, but do not contain the same texture or sensation as silk fabrics. They are water-resistant, shrink-resistant, and do not wrinkle easily. Acetate linings are often preferable amongst designers because they breathe well and conduct no static electricity. This particular, extremely fluid fabric is ideal for the lining of dresses, tops, suits, jackets and more. Note that this material is slightly transparent. Silky smooth and strikingly sleek, a cheap lining option.
These linings are a great alternative for Silk. They are also a lot cheaper and therefore used for mass-production.
Cotton blends are lightweight cotton fabrics have many names: voile, batiste or lawn. You will find some to be ideal for a summer dress. They are all slightly different in weight and opacity and make perfect choices for children’s clothes, tops, dress bodices or any garment where you want a breathable, easily-laundered fabric. Sometimes they are used as linings. But we can missing here the "slippery" quality.
Polyester is a category of polymers that contain the ester functional group in their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters include naturally occurring chemicals, as well as synthetics through step-growth polymerization. Natural polyesters and a few synthetic ones are biodegradable, but most synthetic polyesters are not. The material is used extensively in clothing. Polyester is very lightweight, can be luxury because it is ultra soft and easy to use and maintain.
Polyester linings are common to use as linings for clothing. It is one of the most cheapest options.
Of course we advice you to go for a beautiful Silk fabric for lining your jacket or skirt. But there is nothing wrong with buying some other options. If you are creating the Chanel Style jacket for the first time, you probably do not want to buy an expensive fabric and lining. It would probably be better to practise a little bit first before you know the pattern, the jacket and all its benefits or difficulties during the sewing process. But if you are going to quilt the lining on the fabric, it would be better to buy a better quality lining instead of the cheapest. It will be a frustrating process if the fabric does not work or the hand-sewing is a burden..... Best option is to find a light-weight Silk or Crepe de Chine.
A Silk Charmeuse would be a good option as well.
Taffeta (Silk) is a crisp, smooth, plain woven fabric made from silk or cuprammonium rayons. The word is Persian in origin and means "twisted woven". ... Piece-dyed taffeta is often used in linings and is quite soft. Yarn-dyed taffeta is much stiffer and is often used in evening dresses.
Stretch taffeta fabric is available in rich and vibrant colors. This luxuriously crisp fabric is perfect for ballgowns, dresses, wedding gowns and other high end garments. Taffeta is in the same class and demand as satin made of silk. The cloth is made of a plain or tabby weave, and the textures vary considerably. The fabric is smooth, tightly woven with fine warp yarn and has a plain weave. Silk Taffeta has a crisp drape and comes in various weights.
Shantung is a type of silk fabric historically from the province of Shandong. It is similar to Dupioni, but is slightly thinner and less irregular. Shantung is often used for bridal gowns and a dress-fabric spun from tussore silk with random irregularities in the surface texture. The Polyester Shantung has the look of a woven silk, but has the easy polyester care. The texture is rough but not unpleasant to wear. It has a nice sheen, and a shine on the reverse, which can be a nice accent. The fabric has a very simple plain weave with a ribbed effect. Shantung sometimes has beautiful prints which are decorative and shiny.
Satin is a fabric made using a satin weave structure but made with spun yarns instead of filament. The sheen and softer feel of sateen is produced through the satin weave structure.
Satin has a very smooth, almost silky feel to it. The reason for the smooth feel of satin is because of the way it's woven. It is woven from the same fibers as taffeta, but it has more over threads than it does under threads. Satin is cheaper than silk fabrics. Stretch satin is often used as lining for party clothes. Satin is a great alternative for silk.
Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave, in which the warp threads cross over four or more of the backing (weft) threads. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth finish—lustrous and reflective—whereas the back has a dull finish.
The lightweight and silky soft charmeuse satin fabrics have a beautiful hand and drape. They have 10% stretch across the grain for added comfort and ease. These fabrics are perfect for special occasion apparel, blouses, lingerie, dresses and skirts - especially on the bias.
Dance-wear is often made of charmeuse.
Charmeuse is not very nice for sewing or handsewing. It takes a lot of patience to get it right and a lot of neat work.
Viscose lining fabrics are anti-static, smooth to the touch, soft, pliable and light enough in weight. Viscose is sometimes called Rayon. Viscose, man-made fiber created from cellulose chemically extracted from trees. It's a little weaker in strength than cotton, and thus is often used to make delicate, lighter clothing. Viscose is particularly used for summer dresses, blouses and linings. The fabric is sometimes very cheap and used for mass-production poor quality clothes. Viscose is a contradictory beast - as a manufactured regenerated cellulose fibre, it is neither truly natural (like cotton, wool or silk) nor truly synthetic (like nylon or polyester) - it falls somewhere in between.
Rayon is a man-made fabric blended from cotton, wood pulp, and other natural or synthetic fibers. It was invented as a cheaper alternative to silk Since it is so comfortable and cooling to wear, rayon is an especially good fabric for sportswear and summer dresses.
Rayon or artificial silk is a manufactured regenerated cellulose fiber. It is made from purified cellulose, primarily from wood pulp, which is chemically converted into a soluble compound. It is then dissolved and forced through a spinneret to produce filaments which are chemically solidified, resulting in synthetic fibers of nearly pure cellulose. ... Because rayon is manufactured from naturally occurring polymers, it is considered a semi-synthetic fiber. Rayon is not the best option for lining.
Acetate fabrics are made from man-made fibers and are meant to look like silk, but do not contain the same texture or sensation as silk fabrics. They are water-resistant, shrink-resistant, and do not wrinkle easily. Acetate linings are often preferable amongst designers because they breathe well and conduct no static electricity. This particular, extremely fluid fabric is ideal for the lining of dresses, tops, suits, jackets and more. Note that this material is slightly transparent. Silky smooth and strikingly sleek, a cheap lining option.
These linings are a great alternative for Silk. They are also a lot cheaper and therefore used for mass-production.
Cotton blends are lightweight cotton fabrics have many names: voile, batiste or lawn. You will find some to be ideal for a summer dress. They are all slightly different in weight and opacity and make perfect choices for children’s clothes, tops, dress bodices or any garment where you want a breathable, easily-laundered fabric. Sometimes they are used as linings. But we can missing here the "slippery" quality.
Polyester is a category of polymers that contain the ester functional group in their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters include naturally occurring chemicals, as well as synthetics through step-growth polymerization. Natural polyesters and a few synthetic ones are biodegradable, but most synthetic polyesters are not. The material is used extensively in clothing. Polyester is very lightweight, can be luxury because it is ultra soft and easy to use and maintain.
Polyester linings are common to use as linings for clothing. It is one of the most cheapest options.
Of course we advice you to go for a beautiful Silk fabric for lining your jacket or skirt. But there is nothing wrong with buying some other options. If you are creating the Chanel Style jacket for the first time, you probably do not want to buy an expensive fabric and lining. It would probably be better to practise a little bit first before you know the pattern, the jacket and all its benefits or difficulties during the sewing process. But if you are going to quilt the lining on the fabric, it would be better to buy a better quality lining instead of the cheapest. It will be a frustrating process if the fabric does not work or the hand-sewing is a burden..... Best option is to find a light-weight Silk or Crepe de Chine.
A Silk Charmeuse would be a good option as well.
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For the color or perhaps a print matching the tweed or bouclé fabric:
How to choose the most beautiful combination of fabric, lining and finishings for your jacket? How to recognize a real Silk? Caring and cleaning Silk fabrics or linings |
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