The Bernina Overlockboek is a very interesting source of information about the overlocker. It is written in the Dutch language, therefore unfortunately only interesting for our Dutch readers.
Nevertheless we want to inform you about this book because it is a great book with a lot of information, instructions and inspiration.
Bernina offers e-books about the sewingmachines and the sergers as well on this link:
Good luck with the books. The Bernina Overlockboek is worth every eurocent....
Haute couture means "high sewing" or "high dressmaking" or "high fashion". It is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Also mentioned: high-end-fashion. In either terms, most important is the fact the clothes are constructed by hand from start to finish.
Haute couture is made from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabrics. The outerfabric but also the linings, interfacing and all the notions as. well. We are talking about real Silk, real metal, wooden or pearl buttons and the best of the best notions: zippers, hocks, the label-material etc. It is in the detail, so even the price-labels, size-labels etc. are full of details, copyright protected names etc.
Work, and work....
Haute couture is sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable sewers. They are often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. The difference between basic sewing and couture sewing is a big difference. Mainly the time invested, the location of the ateliers (or factories) and mostly the seamstress. The couture houses are working with very skilled seamstress. Before somebody is allowed to cut the expensive fabrics or to sew an ordered piece of couture by a very wealthy client: they have to be big professionals.
Haute OR couture?
Haute is the name. Haute refers to 'high 'the best' , 'the most professional' etc. Haute couture means the best of the best. Haute translates literally to "high".
A haute couture garment is:
But what about Prêt-à-Porter ?
The real difference between Prêt-à-Porter and Haute couture: Prêt-à-Porter = ready-to-wear. The same beautiful couture garment is not created for an exclusive client but in standard-sizes. The clothes are for sale for those who can afford them. Well, it still means the cloths are extremely expensive, but they are for sale....
Chanel couture, if you win the lottery?
Yes, it is expensive with capitals. We all know a lipstick costs already 30.00 euro even though you can buy a perfect lipstick for 10.00 euro of the other brands. Mainly you pay for the label-name, the package, the smell, the luxury image and above all: a special feeling to have a CHANEL-lipstick!
We all know about the handbags. If you own a real 2.55 Chanel handbag, you are walking around with a real investment. Most handbags starts around 5.000 euro and for some (new) models you have to get on a list, wait for months, maybe even years.
And now: imagine the couture: Day wear usually starts at around euro 10.000, though it does depend on the brand Chanel Haute Couture usually cost between euro 50.000-100.000, while bridal can easily cost euro 100.000-150.000. So start saving money, or better: start to learn how to create couture yourself.
HAUTE COUTURE YOURSELF!
Couture houses or labels don't mass-produce. They'll make 100 garments a year instead of 1.000, or even instead of mass production to sell the clothes allover the world.... So now you understand WHY the real Haute couture is so extremely expensive.
The choice between real couture and mass-production cheap clothes is easy. you have to get dressed, so you have to buy what's available down the streets or on the internet.
BUTTTT...... start sewing yourself and you are able to create your own Haute couture.
13 reasons why you should make your own Chanel-style jacket
How to know if you have a real Vintage-Chanel jacket or a fake one?
Toyota Power Fabriq 17 review
We have tested this powerful sewingmachine for you !
The Toyota Power Fabriq 17 is an excellent sewing machine for when you like to work with heavier fabrics such as jeans, canvas, light leather materials and furniture fabrics. The sewing machine can process these fabrics nicely and the result looks professional. However, the sewing machine is not a leather machine and should therefore not be used for this.
The sewing machine has a few surprising extras such as the manual, the included yarns and the hidden Quick Advisor booklet.
The Toyota Power 17 has a really nice appearance and is one to be proud of. We do recommend that you purchase a sewing machine bag in case you use it. The sewing machine has no handle and is slightly heavier than average. There is a recess in the back: this is the built-in handle.
We tested the sewingpattern Vogue V9247.
The sewingpattern is easy and a plain simple open-front shaped jacket. The pattern is ideal for variations and we especially love the long-jacket-variation.
Vogue V9247, Loose-fitting unlined jacket and vest have length, sleeve, and pocket variations. A: Self-fringe and braid. B: Braid. C: Lace trim. D: Self-fringe and lace trim. F: Self-fringe.
Sewing level: not mentioned
Fabrics: Lightweight Synthetic Leather and Suede, Ponte Knit and Lightweight Demin
Notions: Bias, trims, lace trims and bindings.
We are enthusiast about these PLUS points:
We are a little disappointed about:
We created the Model D. long jacket but without the long fringes, as this looks a bit too much of a sort of boho-style. The long jacket is a really easy pattern and great for experimenting with fringes, trims and adding linings.
Creative ideas: trims en fringes.
We tried this pattern with a dark green, but very loose, woolen Bouclé fabric. We also added a Silk graphic lining and quilted it as in The couture cardigan jacket.
A long jacket (or coat?) to wear all day. To travel. For work. For the colds evenings during Summer. For indoors: an extra layer.
This jacket might look a bit cheap on the pattern: but it feels like heaven when you create the pattern and use the quilting style on good (not too cheap!) fabrics like a real great Bouclé and a real Silk lining.
An overlocker or a coverlock machine?
Why does a seamstress needs an overlocker? If you are sewing clothes and want to give the results professional appearance, you definitely need an overlocker. An overlocker and a sewing machine are the perfect combination for a seamstress. You need the sewing machine for the sewing work and an overlocker for the perfect fishing touch. It is though possible to sew without an overlocker, but the result will never be as beautiful and professional as you would like it to be.
The finishing touch is guaranteed with an overlocker. Nicely cut and overlocked hems and edges. Beautiful ‘self-made’ clothes!
If you have decided to buy an overlocker, you suddenly notice the term "coverlock". Or "cover stitch machine" or "coverlock-combination". Help, what does it mean? Are these machines the same? Or are we talking about two entirely different machines with their own specific functions? Don't panic, we'll explain it to you:
Why do you need an overlocker:
An overlocker or also known as a "lockmachine" is used to sew stretchable fabrics together and to finish with the 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch. This gives your sewing-work a professional look. You can also easily finish woven or frayed fabrics.In addition, the lockmachine also makes blind hems, neat zoom edges and decorative edges in multiple variations. The overlocker cuts and sews at the same time. Turn any item of clothing inside out and look at the seams: neatly and straightly finished with an overlocker.
An overlocker is a supplement to your sewing machine but not a replacement.
What about cover stitches:
You often hear the terms ‘cover stitches’ when sewing with stretchy fabrics such as stretch fabrics for a t-shirt, sweater or beautiful jersey dress. Jeans fabrics are nowadays more elastic than ever. But those fabrics are difficult to finish and no matter how you try, the result of the sewing work will look like "self-made". This should be a compliment, but always feels a bit like: not thát nice; it is not the stuff you buy in a store...
Cover stitches are those stitches you notice at the bottom or at the neck of a t-shirt. On the right side of the fabric you will see a double row of stitches and loops at the back. This stitch is extremely stretchable and the best option for finishing stretch fabrics. It is really a very professional hem that looks like two rows of stitching on the top and a serger-like stitch on the back. The benefit of a cover stitch is its stretch ability and the covering of the raw edge all in one pass. You may have thought that these are always made by factory-machines, but that is not truth. Or maybe it is true, but you can cover stitch at home!
A coverlock machine:
With a cover lock machine you can make those stitches and finish your sewing nicely!
BUT: The cover stitch can only be made on coverlock machines and on combination overlocker-coverlock machines and not on a regular lock machine. (Unless the lockmachine does have the option: look in the manual for ‘cover stitching’, normally these lockmachines are more expensive than the normal lockmachines)
A coverlock machine is also called a Coverstitch or a covermachine.
Overlocker or coverlock machine?
The distinction is therefore fairly simple. A lock machine is doing better cutting and locking work. A cover lock machine does the typical cover stitches that are used for zoom edges. A combination of a lock machine and coverlock also exists. However, these machines are more complicated to use (and more expensive). A normal lockmachine and a separate coverlock machine works a lot better and more efficiently. You don't have to change the overlocker in terms of settings to make the cover stitches.
Your sewing equipment are your best friends!
If it still not loud and clear: think of an oven. You can heat up food in an oven, as well as in a microwave. Yet these are both different processes for preparing a tasty meal. An oven-microwave combination also exists. Make sure that you properly switch from the one to the other function as you do not want a melted frozen meal including the foil or package. In either ways: if the result should be a nice delicious meal for the whole family, with both heating and preparing-options you have a bigger chance of success and you buy a piece ( = both machines) of convenience.
Let's just stick to the sewing work. Imagine that you want to make a nice jersey summer dress. You are sewing the dress with a sewingmachine, then finish the seams with an overlocker. The coverlock machine does the final work: the dress is beautifully hemmed with cover stitches and now looks perfect. “Did you really make it yourself?” are friends asking you, because nobody will believe it !
What is that trend: Upcycling?
Upcycling is a relatively new term and has been used since the late 1990s. It has only been known to the general public in recent years. The term is becoming increasingly popular.
Recycling has long been known to all of us. We have been storing old paper for years because it can be used to make new paper. We collect glass, because it is used to make new glass. Environmentally conscious is the key word. Do not throw away anything that can be used again!
Upcycling is actually the same as recycling. Old, worn or unused items are reused, and become more beautiful or have a different purpose. Examples; bicycle bags are made from inner tubes, garden furniture is made from pallets, bags, pillows, plaids or mobile covers are created from old worn clothing. Take a look at Etsy and see how resourceful creatives are among us today.
Upcycling is actually something that seamstress have been doing for years. Why would you throw away something that just doesn't fit, is not comfortable or is heavily out of fashion. We just 'adjust' it!
Take a shirt: cut the sleeves to pieces, make large power sleeves with other fabric or put a nice embroidery on it. Suddenly that boring blouse is hip and hotter than your daughter again ... (the latter only in 'chic' style, haha)
Or suppose you have bought a beautiful dress but it is not comfortable or just does not look nice .... You do not throw that beautiful fabric away? Hops, scissors in and we just make something else out of it.
And what about all those beautiful quilts and patchwork quilt? All made from scraps of fabric that might otherwise have been thrown away!
We are upcyclinging for a while now, but recently we do it with more pleasure than ever!
While testing the Veritas Florence embroidery machine, we found out how much fun embroidery is, and how cool it is to pimp up your clothes.
And now the embroidery machine Bernette D70 Deco is being tested!
Embroidery is boring? Well no! More fun, sustainable and chic than ever.
Blog photo: a nice turquoise dress from the front page of the Bernette D70 Deco manual. The embroidery speaks for itself: after this 'update', a simple turquoise dress will look unique, chic, classy and more durable than ever.
Book review: The Little Black Dress by Simon Henry
The little black dress, by Simon Henry
No woman in the world should be without a little black dress! And that's an understatement...
The little black dress is always chic, classy and ideal for styling for different occasions: an evening party, a formal business-meeting or just a nice casual day. Add some accessories, handbags, a coat, shoes or boots or combine it with sneakers. Everything is possible and timeless beautiful.
But where to find a little black dress that really fits?
Here you have the answer: make one yourself! A tailor-made Little Black Dress ('LBD') could be yours.
The backcover-page of the book promises it is possible even though you do not have any experience with sewing. Expert dressmaker Simon Henry will guide you through the process of making the perfect little black dress.
Unfortunately we do not agree. It takes some knowledge of sewing and some experience in cutting the pattern, shaping it on a dressform and sewing your own tailor-made little black dress.
But we agree on the great guide the book offers. The pictures are loud and clear. The drawings are perfect and the background-information is really very nice.
The photographs are stunning and the layout of the whole book is really worth every penny.
We definitely recommend this book. But make sure it will not be your first project, otherwise it probably won't work. Unless you are really very talented.
And please, show us your little black dress ! Good luck with the project and good luck with this beautiful book.
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